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  #1  
Old 10-28-2019, 12:25 PM
vpelletier

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LSP Barrel stuck on M106



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I recently bought a 5.5" LSP barrel, and LSP scope base for my HS M106. I removed the stock barrel, and popped in the new LSP barrel. The LSP barrel had more play to it than I expected. When I tried to remove the new barrel I found that it is stuck. I depress the release button, but I cannot get the new barrel off of the gun. Has anyone else dealt with a stuck barrel?
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  #2  
Old 10-28-2019, 03:42 PM
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HSWayne
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barrel

You need to press the release button further back into the frame. You can do this by placing the end of the plunger on the edge of a table, and push the frame downward to get the plunger back into the frame as far a possible. Then use your other hand to pull the barrel off of the frame. You may have to wiggle it back and forth some to get it out.
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  #3  
Old 10-28-2019, 08:29 PM
12Step

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When all else fails, use a hammer...just not as it sounds. I keep a wooden handled hammer by my work station...cheapie from Harbor Freight, and instead of beating up a table edge, I push against the end of the hammer, one hand pushing down on the grip, the release button firmly against the but of the hammer handle, my two smaller fingers gripping the barrel as my two longer fingers stabilize the hammer handle. Keeps the furniture looking nicer longer. If you tear up the hammer handle, a new one at HF is only about $5. Mine has worked for years
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  #4  
Old 10-28-2019, 09:40 PM
vpelletier

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Quote:
Originally Posted by HSWayne View Post
You need to press the release button further back into the frame. You can do this by placing the end of the plunger on the edge of a table, and push the frame downward to get the plunger back into the frame as far a possible. Then use your other hand to pull the barrel off of the frame. You may have to wiggle it back and forth some to get it out.
I took my afflicted gun to the range tonight, and one of my friends, who is stronger, and more tenacious than me, used the techniques described by HSWayne and 12Step to get my barrel unstuck. It turns out that the barrel stud was loose, and had a longer than usual effective length, when I installed the barrel. Thank you for the help.
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  #5  
Old 10-29-2019, 07:29 AM
LDBennett
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At the Hi Std factory they adjusted the barrel fit with various tapered plungers (part of the button). But fit is fit and to have compatibility with your other barrels you can modify the barrel stud to tighten the barrel fit to the frame.

Decades ago I had to modify the barrel stud of a Volquartsen Hi Std barrel to fit properly on a bad Houston Texas Hi Std frame. The frame was one of the few bad frames produced early on (about 1998) and had an issue that let it NOT feed ammo reliably. TX Hi Std eventually exchanged the frame for a perfect one but the Volquartsen barrel went back to Volquartsen for full refund after they could not get their barrel to feed ammo either (Bad frame, not Volquartsen's fault). Volquartsen was super to try to help me out. The barrel fit the gun with the stud mod but the frame was not presenting the magazine correctly to the feed reliably.

LDBennett
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Old 10-29-2019, 08:29 AM
Gus1957

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Hello,

Do you have HS drawing dimensions from top of magazine well to barrel mounting pads and barrel plunger hole in frame? I recently had Cerakote applied to (2) worn Victor frames. It greatly reduced slide to frame play, but now have a problem with the barrel not locking up on one of the frames. Plunger doesn't move freely and doesn't lock up barrel. I'm guessing that Cerakote is too thick in some areas and will probably have to remove some. Looking to make some dimensional checks first.
Thank you !
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  #7  
Old 10-29-2019, 04:32 PM
SGVictor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus1957 View Post
Hello,

Do you have HS drawing dimensions from top of magazine well to barrel mounting pads and barrel plunger hole in frame? I recently had Cerakote applied to (2) worn Victor frames. It greatly reduced slide to frame play, but now have a problem with the barrel not locking up on one of the frames. Plunger doesn't move freely and doesn't lock up barrel. I'm guessing that Cerakote is too thick in some areas and will probably have to remove some. Looking to make some dimensional checks first.
Thank you !
The factory drawing of the barrel specifies the area that contacts the barrel support pads on the frame is an area that is not to be polished. That suggests to me that coating these frame pads with Cerakote would be a really bad idea.

Because of how the barrel seats on these pads there is no simple measurement to be made without a 0.9000" dia gauge pin. Even then there is no direct measurement. Most critical dimensions on the frame are bades fron the tooling hole datum.
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:06 PM
Gus1957

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Hello,

Something might have gone wrong with the spell check? Please elaborate what "bades" from the tooling hole datum are.

This is my first experience with having Cerakote done on anything. It was supposed to be about .001" thick. Hard to take initial reference measurements over bluing that would be removed.

They lightly sandblast bluing off of parts. Then polish if necessary. Should have had them mask off the barrel pads and plunger hole if I had thought it thru. Lesson learned.
Fortunately Cerakote comes off easily with emery. The other gun that barrel assembles ok had feeding problems. With advice from Alan Aronstein just removed Cerakote from frame where bullet initially hits coming out of magazine and that solved feeding problem.
Apparently Cerakote doesn't help with lubricity against lead bullet head.
The 2 Cerakote guns are for experimenting.
My 2 Supermatic Citation 107's are functioning extremely well right now with Aquila Super Extra & Pistol Match. Monday night 280 & 284. This am 289.
I should be getting a new HS from Alan shortly to try out.
In 2nd year of retirement and enjoying being able to dedicate time to BE shooting and tinkering with guns. Waited too long to be doing this.


Thank you for your input.
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  #9  
Old 10-30-2019, 06:57 PM
SGVictor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus1957 View Post
Hello,

Something might have gone wrong with the spell check? Please elaborate what "bades" from the tooling hole datum are.

This is my first experience with having Cerakote done on anything. It was supposed to be about .001" thick. Hard to take initial reference measurements over bluing that would be removed.

They lightly sandblast bluing off of parts. Then polish if necessary. Should have had them mask off the barrel pads and plunger hole if I had thought it thru. Lesson learned.
Fortunately Cerakote comes off easily with emery. The other gun that barrel assembles ok had feeding problems. With advice from Alan Aronstein just removed Cerakote from frame where bullet initially hits coming out of magazine and that solved feeding problem.
Apparently Cerakote doesn't help with lubricity against lead bullet head.
The 2 Cerakote guns are for experimenting.
My 2 Supermatic Citation 107's are functioning extremely well right now with Aquila Super Extra & Pistol Match. Monday night 280 & 284. This am 289.
I should be getting a new HS from Alan shortly to try out.
In 2nd year of retirement and enjoying being able to dedicate time to BE shooting and tinkering with guns. Waited too long to be doing this.


Thank you for your input.

The word was intended to be based not bades. I don't seem to have spell check on my back-up computer. My primary computer is currently not functional.
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  #10  
Old 10-30-2019, 10:04 PM
Gus1957

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Got it.

TY
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  #11  
Old 10-31-2019, 08:38 AM
LDBennett
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Spell check can be a god-send or a hindrance. My MAC makes up spellings and selects non-sensical words as replacements all the time. I have to re-read my posts many times before posting to correct the spell checker (and my inept typing). What my Android phone does with spell check is a nightmare!!

LDBennett
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