Woodstocks Amazin' Stock Finish & photos - RimfireCentral.com Forums

Go Back   RimfireCentral.com Forums > >

Notices

Join Team RFC to remove these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-13-2010, 04:04 PM
woodstock63
National Guard Veteran NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Jun 2006
Location: 
White Cloud,Michigan
Posts: 
345
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Woodstocks Amazin' Stock Finish & photos



Log in to see fewer ads








Ok, grab a cup of coffee and sit back. The top three photos are of my Winchester 72A which had a really good finish when I picked it up, for $200, but age was hiding the beauty of the grain. The other was for a customer.

Brief History:
I've used this process for four years now on Walnut and laminated stocks. This accounts for about six stocks per year. I've been doing them for our local gunsmith, who is a very discriminating individual. I do his own personal guns as well as his customers. There has never been a single problem with any of these, no matter the weather.

Benefits
No worries regarding humidity/drying time; runs, drips, errors or overlaps that a traditional Tru-Oil only finish can leave requiring sanding out, the end result is a finish smooth as a baby's bottom.

Step One; Preparation
Strip old stock, use a wet cloth over dents and use the tip of a steam iron, which swells the area around the dent and lifts out just about all except the deepest. Be aware that any sharp edged dents will probably require deeper sanding below the dent and then blend into the surrounding area. I use 220 grit sandpaper (always with the grain), primarily to avoid leaving deeper sanding marks and scratches. I constantly will backlight the stock turning it to view along the wood for any imperfections. When the desired smoothed finish shape is there, I go to 400 grit, then 800 grit.

Now de-whisker. With a wet cloth wipe down the entire stock and let dry. This raises small fibers or "splinters" which I now lightly sand off with 800 grit. Now lightly rub the stock down with 0000x steel wool.

Step Two; GO NO FURTHER!
This is important; check your work, use the light source. It is what it is, don't scrimp on your quality now and be satisfied with your prep results. The next part is the easiest.

Step Three; The Magic Elixir
Here's what you've waited for..,the formula!

I use Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil and ArmorAll. Other brands of tire shine will also work, but I usually have enough ArmorAll around. I do not use grain filler or stain unless the stock really begs for it.

Spray on a coat of ArmorAll, rub it over the entire stock and wipe off the excess. Now rub a couple of fingers worth of Tru-Oil over the ArmorAll in all directions, but initially across the grain to fill the pores. (Doing sections at a time intially is best because you can see where you've been.) Once some coats have been built up, you can do one full side of the stock at a time. Rub briskly with palm and finger tips until the surface loses its tack and feels like glass. This may take 5-10 minutes but subsequent coats will go even faster. The first coats will appear dull, but subsequent coats will start to gloss up .
( EDITED:Added note thanks to Tom Beck suggestion- Every single coat uses ArmorAll and TruOil combination)
I will put on as many coats as required to give the perfect flat surface finish. Don't rush the coats or thickness application or you'll be rubbing longer.

As I continue once the sheen has been built up, I often lightly buff with 0000x steel wool. This gives a bit of bite for additional coats.

I can put two or three dozen coats on in a day and typically finish a stock in the same day and use it immediately. When I'm satisfied with the final coats I will often put a good furniture polish on a small piece of 0000x steel wool and gently rub it on in the direction of the grain, buff it off and add pure wax and buff again.

For a flatter sheen, the last step is a light 0000x steel wool buff without wax, your choice.

Why does this work?
I believe that there is a chemical reaction or catalyst occuring between the ArmorAll and the Tru-Oil that is much the same as a two-part epoxy that strengthens, hardens and gives such a rapid working/drying time. Don't panic; the process starts working only when you start rubbing the mix together and in.

I know this was long winded, but I hope it gives you greater satisfaction in a much shorter amount of time. Repairing small nicks later on is a snap, steam and/or sand the area, apply your "elixir" and it'll blend right in. Thanks for your patience and please feel free to ask about anything you feel I may have skipped over. Start with a beater stock if you have doubts, but don't
have any fear, this works like a charm.

I look forward to hearing from you after you give this a try and also please submit pictures/comments of your results.

If you don't like your results, I'll refund your money...,oh wait a minute, you didn't pay for this tutorial.

Last edited by woodstock63; 07-07-2012 at 03:35 PM. Reason: Helpful added note thanks to Tom Beck
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-13-2010, 04:34 PM
All4fun's Avatar
All4fun
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Feb 2007
Location: 
Scripps Ranch.... It's mostly nice here.
Posts: 
3,953
TPC Rating: 
100% (71)
Wow... can't argue with those nice results. Thanks for the info and details.

How does it do on beech? I'm wondering if the ArmorAll darkens up the beech at all, or if the result is very blonde?

~~~
__________________
[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][I][SIZE="2"][B]"Never wrestle with a pig. You get dirty and the pig likes it." :)[/B][/SIZE][/I][/FONT]
[SIZE="1"][/SIZE]
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-13-2010, 04:36 PM
M2HB's Avatar
M2HB
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Apr 2004
Location: 
Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 
28,600
TPC Rating: 
100% (4)
The results look awesome. I have never heard of this before. I learn something new everyday.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old 03-13-2010, 04:38 PM
woodstock63
National Guard Veteran NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Jun 2006
Location: 
White Cloud,Michigan
Posts: 
345
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Related to my first post about this process, there was someone who questioned the use of ArmorAll ;so I did a web search and found this quote from "The Highroad".

"Armor All (yes, the kind you use on tires and your dashboard) will cause Tru oil to harden almost immediately and bond to the coat beneath it. I would spray into my hand and rub the whole stock down with just the film on my hands. It does, however, dull the finish just slightly so don't do this for final finsh. It helped for the wiping on/off phase to get the nice translucence."

I don't have a problem with sheen I guess because I put Tru-Oil over the ArmorAll.

I discovered this for myself when I had a full Tru-Oil finished stock that I'd put ArmorAll on as a protectant and then went back and touched up a spot with Tru-Oil over it and had a happy accident.

Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-13-2010, 04:41 PM
woodstock63
National Guard Veteran NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Jun 2006
Location: 
White Cloud,Michigan
Posts: 
345
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
I'll tell you what guys, I'll let some more questions come in and then will respond to all of your questions in a single response if that's alright., I promise.

Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-13-2010, 04:53 PM
Gizzy's Avatar
Gizzy
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Aug 2006
Location: 
Ohio
Posts: 
18,053
TPC Rating: 
100% (149)
Do you only apply the ArmorAll once, or between every coat of Tru Oil?? You only state it being used first, and never again. Just wondering how the following applications of Tru Oil will harden with this if its not used every time you apply the Tru Oil.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-13-2010, 05:27 PM
woodstock63
National Guard Veteran NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Jun 2006
Location: 
White Cloud,Michigan
Posts: 
345
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Some answers.


"Do you only apply the ArmorAll once, or between every coat of Tru Oil?? You only state it being used first, and never again. Just wondering how the following applications of Tru Oil will harden with this if its not used every time you apply the Tru Oil."

Sorry, my bad! Yes, ArmorAll between every coat.


"Wow... can't argue with those nice results. Thanks for the info and details.
How does it do on beech? I'm wondering if the ArmorAll darkens up the beech at all, or if the result is very blonde?"


Ohhh man, I'm not too fond of finishing Beech but I have. No, it won't darken it much. If you need to darken Beech, I've used Analine Dye which is a powder that you mix with Wood Alcohol and water .Follow the mix directions on the Analine (a true dye that comes in different dye colors)very carefully, but it's easy. It's typically available from a good wood workers supply house, maybe even Brownell's. Then the elixir once that's dried good.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-14-2010, 04:07 AM
zoned
US Marines Veteran

Join Date: 
Oct 2004
Posts: 
828
TPC Rating: 
100% (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodstock63 View Post
...If you need to darken Beech, I've used Analine Dye which is a powder that you mix with Wood Alcohol and water...[/B]
I've used these dyes on pistol grips with very good results. They will tint Tung oil, polyurethane varnishes, Linseed oil, and I suspect Tru-Oil, or any petroleum base finishing solution. The English Red on nicely figured dark walnut is stunning. These are concentrates, so just add a few drops to a dish of varnish solution until you get the color you want, then test it on a scrap to see how it transfers to the wood. With light woods you may need to add dark wood stain, too [clear, not the pigmented stuff which is cloudy], to darken the Red. I get the color on with the first or second varnish applications, then follow with untinted product for the final rubs for a deep, rich finish.

http://tinyurl.com/ydsc4xp
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-13-2010, 05:29 PM
mals9's Avatar
mals9
Appleseed Rifleman

Join Date: 
Jan 2009
Location: 
St. Louis MO
Posts: 
2,892
TPC Rating: 
100% (2)
I am going to have to try this. Your results speak for themselves. I have a stock that has been finished with Tru-Oil already, can I put Armorall over this and continue with your process?
Thanks for the tutorial. Looking forward to seeing more results.


Mals

Edit: Got my answer above.

Last edited by mals9; 03-13-2010 at 05:33 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-13-2010, 05:56 PM
GREEN607's Avatar
GREEN607
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
May 2007
Location: 
Indianapolis IN
Posts: 
3,608
TPC Rating: 
96% (117)
Both of those rifles look great! Especially the finish on your 72. I personally like a non-gloss finish on a good rifle, and yours is perfect, IMHO.

Your 72 has got some real nice woodgrain, too. Very nicely done! I may have to try that on the model 69A. It's a hunting rifle already, not a collectors piece.....so refinishing it won't hurt a thing.

Thanks woodstock, for sharing this.
__________________
Teach a kid something good today.....
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-07-2012, 01:51 AM
clipfed

Join Date: 
Sep 2011
Posts: 
186
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodstock63 View Post
Related to my first post about this process, there was someone who questioned the use of ArmorAll ;so I did a web search and found this quote from "The Highroad".

"Armor All (yes, the kind you use on tires and your dashboard) will cause Tru oil to harden almost immediately and bond to the coat beneath it. I would spray into my hand and rub the whole stock down with just the film on my hands. It does, however, dull the finish just slightly so don't do this for final finsh. It helped for the wiping on/off phase to get the nice translucence."

I don't have a problem with sheen I guess because I put Tru-Oil over the ArmorAll.

I discovered this for myself when I had a full Tru-Oil finished stock that I'd put ArmorAll on as a protectant and then went back and touched up a spot with Tru-Oil over it and had a happy accident.

Ha Ha Ha (happy accident) seems like I knew of a painter that Talked of happy accidents
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-09-2012, 12:02 AM
5539
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Sep 2008
Posts: 
378
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
I am tired and if this was any sort of a competition the score would be Shotgun Butt Stock (1) Big Dummy (0).

Two days of sanding 220, 400, 600, 800, 1200 and 1500 and dewhiskered the stock. Re sanded with 400, 800, 1500.

I started the process, figured out the trick and applied about 8 treatments.

The Walnut Wood Pores are still staring me in the face and my arm is about to fall off.

I'm going to go to sleep and hope the Pore Fairy comes tonight and closes up the pores. haha

I sure hope the pores close up before I have to buy another bottle of Tru-Oil.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-09-2012, 02:31 AM
clipfed

Join Date: 
Sep 2011
Posts: 
186
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5539 View Post
I am tired and if this was any sort of a competition the score would be Shotgun Butt Stock (1) Big Dummy (0).

Two days of sanding 220, 400, 600, 800, 1200 and 1500 and dewhiskered the stock. Re sanded with 400, 800, 1500.

I started the process, figured out the trick and applied about 8 treatments.

The Walnut Wood Pores are still staring me in the face and my arm is about to fall off.

I'm going to go to sleep and hope the Pore Fairy comes tonight and closes up the pores. haha

I sure hope the pores close up before I have to buy another bottle of Tru-Oil.
You need a high quality grain filler then a high quality sand sealer this will take care of it I used it on a couple mahogany guitars and it leads to a glass smooth finish. Not sure how it will work with tru oil
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 03-09-2012, 12:25 PM
woodstock63
National Guard Veteran NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Jun 2006
Location: 
White Cloud,Michigan
Posts: 
345
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5539 View Post
.

The Walnut Wood Pores are still staring me in the face and my arm is about to fall off.

I sure hope the pores close up before I have to buy another bottle of Tru-Oil.
Not having seen any photos, maybe your Walnut has an unusual amount of open/deep pores. (Chipfed has a good solution too but you'll probably want to restrip again)

Try this first: 4-0 steel wool buff and wipe clean with a tack cloth. Now apply against the grain...,repeat...,repeat.

This "elixer" process does rely on thin coats and will take longer to fill but, you should only need to spend 10-15 minutes per section.

I'm surprised your arms tire. If they do and it takes longer to dry when rubbing after 10-15 minutes you may be using too much TruOil

I've had some stocks with deep open grain that take 2-3 dozen coats in a day but they go on very quickly unlike using only pure TruOil which can take a good week or more depending on the humidity.

Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 03-09-2012, 08:07 PM
langenc's Avatar
langenc
US Army Veteran

Join Date: 
Jul 2003
Location: 
Montmorency Co, MI
Posts: 
6,325
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
5539-apply a little heavier (thicker) coat of TO and the pores will fill up faster.

As one poster noted -against the grain(pores).
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:16 AM.

Privacy Policy

DMCA Notice

Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 2000-2018 RimfireCentral.com
x