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  #1  
Old 07-24-2018, 05:19 PM
Winny94

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How to remove thermal fit barrel?



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I am hoping to soon assemble my "ultimate 10/22". I have a Volquartsen Summit and a Shilen barrel. To install on a Summit, you need to test fit shims. The only way to fit the barrel is thermally, but I don't know how to remove barrels fit like that. Has anyone done this and have any tips?
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Old 07-24-2018, 06:09 PM
GH41

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winny94 View Post
I am hoping to soon assemble my "ultimate 10/22". I have a Volquartsen Summit and a Shilen barrel. To install on a Summit, you need to test fit shims. The only way to fit the barrel is thermally, but I don't know how to remove barrels fit like that. Has anyone done this and have any tips?
Personally I think heating the receiver and cooling the barrel is BS driven by internet lore related to the subject. It either fits or it doesn't.
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Old 07-24-2018, 06:14 PM
Winny94

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GH41 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winny94 View Post
I am hoping to soon assemble my "ultimate 10/22". I have a Volquartsen Summit and a Shilen barrel. To install on a Summit, you need to test fit shims. The only way to fit the barrel is thermally, but I don't know how to remove barrels fit like that. Has anyone done this and have any tips?
Personally I think heating the receiver and cooling the barrel is BS driven by internet lore related to the subject. It either fits or it doesn't.
Youre welcome to think whatever you like, but its not really debatable.
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:21 PM
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Removing a part that has been thermally fitted may very well lead to destroying one to salvage the other. Heating one, and freezing the other is the only way to achieve a high interference fit without running the risk of either broaching, or damaging the part on installation. Depending on how much fit there is on the barrel, you may wind up having to cut out the barrel.



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Old 07-24-2018, 08:45 PM
Lo_Key
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Barrel remover

I built a barrel remover: https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...ad.php?t=88159

The receiver is well supported and the the force is enough. I couldn't get the barrel out on one 10-22 using any other method (I did not try heat). Did you use anti-seize or some good grease?
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:57 PM
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vice and a dead blow
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Old 07-24-2018, 09:16 PM
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I think you are looking at the answer to your question. The manufacturers of the barrel and the receiver should be able to give you the proper heat and cooling dimensions. Why make it hard on yourself?
I have installed bearings using the hot cold approach with great success. This will work out for you.

Good Luck

Larry
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:39 PM
rawhp
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I made this barrel remover for about $4 in parts from Home Depot, but only works if your receiver is drilled with a rear cleaning hole:

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...49#post5856649

It's a sticky on this sub-forum.
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Old 07-25-2018, 01:02 AM
GUNDLES123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GH41 View Post
Personally I think heating the receiver and cooling the barrel is BS driven by internet lore related to the subject. It either fits or it doesn't.
you need to pick up a Machinist Handbook then. its an interference fit. VERY common in the Manufacturing world. one of the places i worked at dipped parts in liquid nitrogen and heated the other parts to 300 degrees to get them on
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Old 07-25-2018, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winny94 View Post
I am hoping to soon assemble my "ultimate 10/22". I have a Volquartsen Summit and a Shilen barrel. To install on a Summit, you need to test fit shims. The only way to fit the barrel is thermally, but I don't know how to remove barrels fit like that. Has anyone done this and have any tips?
This is from a prior post on the topic- hope it helps.
I have bolded and highlighted relevant info in red-

Regards, DrGunner

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGunner
Barrel Installation/Removal
I own 3 Kidd builds that all required heat/freezer to install, and have built several others that required thermal persuasion.
I freeze the barrel overnight, and bake the receiver at 250-275F.
They slip together easily. If you don't get the extractor lined up just right, no worries. Just heat the counterbore part of the receiver with a hair dryer or heat gun with a diffuser until you can twist the barrel. It also doesn't hurt to blow compressed air in the chamber to keep the barrel cool and prevent it from expanding. I install the barrel in a well lit area, with the receiver locked in a padded vise, upside down with the bolt in the receiver without the charging assembly-making alignment of the extractor hook easier.

To remove a barrel that has been assembled this way, freeze the barreled action overnight, then heat the receiver around the barrel stub/counterbore with a hair dryer or heat gun with a diffuser.

For stubborn barrels, I push a dry cotton cleaning patch or 2 into the barrel from the breech, and push it in 1-2”. Then I bake the barreled action at 250-275F for 30-60 minutes.
This temp is enough to expand the aluminum receiver without damaging it. I’ve installed and removed many barrels on 10-22 variants using thermal persuasion and have yet to ruin a barrel or receiver.

Quickly lock the heated action into a padded vise and try twisting the barrel with welding gloves or any leather thick enough to protect your hands. Using a strap wrench for added leverage also works.
If it still sticks, take a can of computer "Dust Off" and install a spray straw, turn the can UPSIDE DOWN and insert the spray straw into the chamber- cover the breech face with a rag to prevent blowback from hitting the inside of the receiver. A couple short blasts will rapidly cool and shrink the barrel stub from the inside out Spraying upside down delivers liquid flourocarbons which are COLD.
Give the strap wrench a firm twist and it should break free- I’ve used this method many times with success.

I've seldom had to use a barrel pusher or any type of impact technique to remove or seat using the methods I just described.

This method also works for final seating of barrels that tend to stick on the last 1/16-1/8" before fully seating the shoulder of the barrel into the counterbore of the receiver.


I developed this technique from working on cars and motorcycles. Stuck bolts and bleeder valves on brake calipers come loose easily with this method- heat the entire area, with the fastener, then rapidly cool the fastener to shrink it.

I then later applied it to barrels and receivers.

The locked-in, tight fit you get is stable and good for accuracy.
Also- apply anti-seize to the barrel stub before assembly, it makes rotating and removing the barrel MUCH easier.



Respectfully,

DrGunner

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Old 07-25-2018, 01:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GUNDLES123 View Post
you need to pick up a Machinist Handbook then. its an interference fit. VERY common in the Manufacturing world. one of the places i worked at dipped parts in liquid nitrogen and heated the other parts to 300 degrees to get them on
Yes! Not sure why folks disavow methods that are proven to work in manufacturing and applied to other materials in similar fashion, especially when they’ve likely never tried it. On a few rifles I’ve built or serviced for others, the barrels were stuck for many reasons- age, overtight fasteners, and the worst- aluminum breech faces mushroomed out from thousands of bolt impacts (one of the few that I had to force out with a barrel pusher). Many stuck barrels come free using the heat/“DustOff” liquid fluorocarbon method I described above. Flourocarbons are common refrigerants... like 1,1,1,2 tetraflouroethane, aka Freon. The boiling point of the liquid flourocarbons in DustOff is nowhere near liquid nitrogen but most will vaporize from liquid to gas somewhere around minus -10-15°F. Their flash points are 480F and above, so while they’re flammable, the likelihood of a problem there is low.

I’ve built many Kidd & other customs with interference fit barrels and there’s a certain satisfaction from shooting one that has a good interference fit and is properly pillar bedded. The steel barrel will literally hum like a tuning fork after the bolt slams home.
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Last edited by DrGunner; 07-25-2018 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GH41 View Post
Personally I think heating the receiver and cooling the barrel is BS driven by internet lore related to the subject. It either fits or it doesn't.
Geez, I guess I was just lucky because that exact process has worked for me numerous times when all other methods failed. And BTW, it works to install a stubborn barrel too. Basic physics entailed, but that seems to elude some folks.

DrG nailed it! KIDD barrels and receivers often have a very tight fit and this method is the best to address that.

Doug

Last edited by dbr65; 07-25-2018 at 07:22 AM.
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Old 07-25-2018, 10:56 AM
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So, the shimming is to obtain the correct amount of protrusion into the receiver so the bolt is in full battery in the correct place, is that right?
Having worked in assembly of close tolerance items using heat/cool, we did precise measurements to determine what shims were required to obtain the correct dimensions.
I suggest you do some measuring to avoid having to fit it more than once.
If you don't have or can't get the tools to measure it, maybe a local machine shop can help you out. The various assemblies I was working on were very pricey and every part had written source documentation on it, so it was worth taking the time to do it right the first time around. Good luck.
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