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  #16  
Old 10-17-2019, 11:32 PM
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Out of Battery firing?



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Question:

Do you think that doing the radius / chamfer on your Ruger 10/22's bolt increases the risk of having an out of battery firing? Suppose a dirty or misshapen cartridge doesn't fully seat in your chamber. Your bolt slams it, but the bolt stops about 1 mm or 2 mm short of fully forward. If you pull the trigger with the bolt partially open this way, will the hammer smack the back of your firing pin and detonate the round?
If your bolt is not modified with the radius or chamfer job, the hammer will strike the bottom edge of your bolt long before it can reach the top edge, where the Ruger 10/22's firing pin is. But the more you grind off the lower edge of the back of your bolt, the more you allow the hammer to come forward before it impacts the bolt if the bolt isn't fully seated. Right? Seems so to me.

I had a minor ka-boom with my 10/22 last week, and the case ruptured just forward of the rim, and took out about a 3 mm wide band of brass about 70% around the circumference of the cartridge (a Remington Thunderbolt). My bolt has been radiused, as of 10 years ago. I've shot a lot of ammo thru the gun since the bolt modification, but perhaps last week I got a combination of an out-of-spec round that didn't fit correctly in the chamber, and the bolt failed to push the cartridge all the way home, leaving a bit of the case unsupported and hanging in the air between the bolt and chamber when it detonated.

Does that sound plausible?

Have any of y'all actually tested your 10/22's to see how far your bolt can go back and still have the hammer drop, and strike the firing pin hard enough to dent your rim on the case?
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  #17  
Old 10-22-2019, 04:29 AM
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I did the test

I tested my 10/22, with the bolt that I radiused or chamfered some 15 years ago.
Using primed .22 rimfire cases, I was able to get out of battery firing when I pulled the bolt back about 1/2 a millimeter, or about .019 inch, and holding it there with one hand while pulling the trigger with the other hand.

Pulling the bolt back a couple of millimeters resulted in no pop; the hammer would strike the bolt itself rather than the end of the firing pin on the top of the back of the bolt. If I did not have live, primed cases in the gun I might have mistakenly thought it would shoot, because of the loud metallic "click" of the hammer dropping. But when it's 2 mm out-of-battery, the bottom of the bolt itself acts as a hammer block safety.

So many 10/22 owners think their guns will fire out of battery because they hear the hammer drop; but that's not how you can know for sure.

(I'm not sure how my gun would perform at exactly 1.0 mm out of battery; I had trouble holding the bolt back, consistently, to such a small degree. When I tried to test it at 1 mm, I wound up pulling it back to 1.5 or 2 mm, or letting it creep forward to around 0.5 mm before I'd get the hammer to drop. And I only made a few primed cases to experiment with.)
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  #18  
Old 10-23-2019, 10:38 PM
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I put a rather radical radius on my factory bolt. Used a power grinder for most of the work, then filed it cleaner, then w/d sandpaper down to 400 grit then put a mirror polish on it with a big hard felt buffing wheel. The most noticeable thing is the ease in cocking as compared to a factor stock bolt. Some years later, when making upgrades ie Kidd trigger, I replaced the factory bolt with a Kidd bolt. I did polish the radius on theirs better and it is smooth.
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  #19  
Old 10-23-2019, 10:49 PM
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  #20  
Old 10-24-2019, 01:50 AM
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the only bolts I have that don't have a radius on the rear end, are the ones I specifically use in my 17Mach2's, since I want to do everything I can to delay the opening of the bolt on those rifles and not decrease the effort it takes to open the bolt
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