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Old 01-31-2016, 10:18 AM
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Problem installing scope base



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I was installing the Weaver 430T rail base yesterday. I was using the Torque Wrench screwdriver set just below 20 ponds.

When I was doing the final tightening, the two rear screws right before the click, went mushy and then started to spin freely. Both did the same thing.

I'm assuming I've stripped something, I'm guessing threads on the screws?

What has happened and what's the best way to go about fixing it? I don't want to make anything worse

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:37 AM
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There are several oversized screw kits out there. What were you torqueing too.........
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:55 AM
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No higher than 16 inch lbs. is what I do, with the tiniest bit of Loctite 242 on the threads, with the bolt out of the receiver. Eleven receivers and several sight bases later, I have not stripped any screws. I did but a few receivers with the screws stripped because the seller did not tell up front, but I was putting R/T rails on anyway, which use over-sized screws. Brownells used to sell over-sized 6-48 screws, but don't seem to be available any longer.
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Old 01-31-2016, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattiooo View Post
I was installing the Weaver 430T rail base yesterday. I was using the Torque Wrench screwdriver set just below 20 ponds.
I am guessing you meant 20 inch pounds. If not this is why you stripped the threads. You have several different ways to correct the damage as already mentioned.
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Old 01-31-2016, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattiooo View Post
I was installing the Weaver 430T rail base yesterday. I was using the Torque Wrench screwdriver set just below 20 ponds.

When I was doing the final tightening, the two rear screws right before the click, went mushy and then started to spin freely. Both did the same thing.

I'm assuming I've stripped something, I'm guessing threads on the screws?

What has happened and what's the best way to go about fixing it? I don't want to make anything worse

Thanks in advance!
My torque driver has a caution printed on it that tells you to always set it back to zero when not in use. Storing it with tension can screw up the calibration. I think the Ruger receiver can handle 20 inch lbs, but you don't need to go that high if you use some locktite. If you're sure you had it set to 20, I'd get it calibrated, check it against another one, or toss it and get a new one.
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by rawhp View Post
My torque driver has a caution printed on it that tells you to always set it back to zero when not in use. Storing it with tension can screw up the calibration. I think the Ruger receiver can handle 20 inch lbs, but you don't need to go that high if you use some locktite. If you're sure you had it set to 20, I'd get it calibrated, check it against another one, or toss it and get a new one.
It was stored that way - I confirmed it after opening the package when I bought. it was also brand new. This was the first job I was using it for. I was using the recommendation on the wrench's manual of 18-20. So I set the line just below 20.
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:14 PM
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I am guessing you meant 20 inch pounds. If not this is why you stripped the threads. You have several different ways to correct the damage as already mentioned.
Yes - 20 inch pounds. I don't see any suggestions for correcting the damage. Are you referring to a different thread?
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RCP Phx View Post
There are several oversized screw kits out there. What were you torqueing too.........
I was using the wrench manual's suggestion of 18-20, so I set the line on the wrench just under 20.
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Old 01-31-2016, 01:59 PM
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Yes - 20 inch pounds. I don't see any suggestions for correcting the damage. Are you referring to a different thread?
'ol shooter mentioned the oversized screws (assuming you stripped the receiver):

The weaver style will cost you $7, plus $25-$30 for the tap (plus shipping). May or may not be cheaper than a gunsmith, depending on rates in your area.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...t-prod795.aspx

Last edited by rawhp; 01-31-2016 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:15 PM
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20 inch pounds is a ton in a shallow aluminum hole.
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:36 PM
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Oversized screws is your answer - Got a bunch from Brownells..I may have an extra couple and I just cut a cross/X on one with my Dremel and slightly tapered it for a self tap..worked great...let me know if I can help.
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Old 01-31-2016, 08:02 PM
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Oversized screws is your answer - Got a bunch from Brownells..I may have an extra couple and I just cut a cross/X on one with my Dremel and slightly tapered it for a self tap..worked great...let me know if I can help.
Great tip!!
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Old 09-18-2019, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rawhp View Post
'ol shooter mentioned the oversized screws (assuming you stripped the receiver):

The weaver style will cost you $7, plus $25-$30 for the tap (plus shipping). May or may not be cheaper than a gunsmith, depending on rates in your area.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...t-prod795.aspx
how did you find those ones from brownell?
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Old 09-18-2019, 01:01 PM
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Sadly, this type of thing happens way too much.....(a cautionary warning). The use of a torque measuring device is specialized work. The torque screwdriver general instructions are just that, not specific to this application and likely for into steel, not alum.
Always dbl, even triple check for specific torque values somewhere (like here) before trusting general info unless you have real-world experience to judge the application.
Go the 'just' oversize screws and a tiny bit of Loctite in Clean threads. Trial fit the screws snugged up for protrusion inside the action (you want none) then do a final assembly. I much prefer to tighten these in by hand so I can actually feel what is going on, way better (imo) than depending upon the wrench telling me Ive gone too far.
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Old 09-18-2019, 05:59 PM
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I always use my "calibrated wrist or elbow"........ just slightly SNUG ............
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