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  #106  
Old 02-22-2019, 12:28 PM
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So, went to do some testing the other day.

I didn't mount the scope. Have no idea of the torque settings I should be using...
I tried open sight shooting as I'm not used to that.

I found out that I had 2 front sight inserts! They were installed one upon another.


I shot with and without the silencer. The thread is a standard EU one.
The silencer has a special beveled form. Indeed the front tunnel sight exceeds the threaded part. So a flat silencer won't go tightening up to the barrel.

With or without silencer : the impacts seem the same as far as I can see for the moment (only shot 75 rounds).

The impacts are a bit on the left side.
I wanted to ajust the rear sight but the screw driver I'd need is sooooo thin!
I measured : I need a 0.20 millimeter thick blade. And, as I think it might be a bit hard to unscrew, I suppose I'd need something large and tough enough?
Where could I find that? The ones I found are 0.20 mm x 1.2 mm. Seems too tiny.

How do you ajust the rear sight then? Why the 2 screws?



And what are these 2 other screws for?


2 other views of the rear sight :



So, I tried the rifle standing up at 25 meters. Was my first time shooting open sights (I usually shoot with a scope and sitting + bipod/table) and not seated.
Hard enough.
Wanted to make sure le bullets would be in the C50 target I'm used to (51 x 52 cm).


All shots were in the black center part. Ok, let's go and try it at 50 meters.

At the 50 M range, you have to be seated, shooting through a hole in the wall and there is a tunnel of tires behind (to avoid shooting side-ways and cut out noise, there is a freeway next to the range and some compagnies working in the area).
I am nearsighted (eyeglasses) and starting to become presbyopic which is a mess for my shooting sessions...
Just to say that my results are...well, the best I can see...

My wife, who was wondering why in the world I had bought this thing, actually really appreciated it.
It's slim, light and fun to shoot.

I used CCI Std and RWS Rifle Match ammo for this test.
Had 3/4 fails to cycle with the RWS. Having taken the rifle apart, you can see it's new inside, the silencer never did see any ammo. Clean as new inside. Or maybe 2/3 rounds...at most.
The guy told me he had tried it before selling it to see if it worked.
Anyways, maybe the gun needs some breaking in or the RWS are too weak to cycle.
I didn't experience any other jammings after the 3/4 rounds at the beginning of the shooting test. And none with the silencer.
The extra weight thing is on the bolt side.

I used the 4th insert starting from the left.


The second insert I have is the 2nd one starting from the left in the pic below.
In the picture above, that one is broken.
These pics are from the web.


Ok, let's have a look at the targets.

25M, standing position, mix of CCI Std and RWS Rifle Match ammo :


50M, sitting, table, elbows.
First shot 5 CCI then 5 RWS Rifle Match :


50M, 20 rounds of RWS and silencer :


Some shots are in one hole. Nice. But I think that I was just being lucky as I could hardly guess where I was sighting in (lousy eyes!!!). I tired my best to put the black part of the target centered in the circle of my front insert. It was just so blurry...

All in all, VERY happy with this nicely preserved Gevarm.

Hope someone will tune in to explain how to ajust the rear sight and where I can source a screw-driver.
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  #107  
Old 02-23-2019, 06:06 AM
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RITON,
First, congrats on a great range day!
Now, some observations.
First, Id hit Hardware stores and Electronics stores and find a screwdriver kit with multiple interchangeable bits. Then I would hollow grind/stone the bits to fit the screw heads perfectly. Be certain to have the bit faces parallel to prevent cam-out and dont heat them to the point of changing temper.
On the rear sight, the 2 screws in the rear sight blade are for fine tuning the rear sight zero to correspond to a specific range for a specific load.
Test ammo, find what groups tightest that you can buy in quantity. Set rear sight ramp for the intended range, then adjust the blade to zero for best load. Then sliding the ramp should get you pretty close for other distances.
Third, the receiver finish is delicate.
Id place a thin layer of plastic tape over the grooves, then clamp the scope rings, this should prevent marring the finish, and will help prevent scope slip.
Lastly, the RWS seems like it might be slower, and would need the recoil spring/weight reversed for proper function. Just dont fire hi speed ammo in that configuration.
Take care!
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  #108  
Old 02-23-2019, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obx22 View Post
RITON,
First, congrats on a great range day!
Thanks.


Quote:
Now, some observations.
First, I’d hit Hardware stores and Electronics stores and find a screwdriver kit with multiple interchangeable bits. Then I would hollow grind/stone the bits to fit the screw heads perfectly. Be certain to have the bit faces parallel to prevent cam-out and don’t heat them to the point of changing temper.
Yep, guess I'll have to do it home made in order to have a large AND thin blade.
Do you know how to use these 2 screws?
I usually find only ONE side screw (as on my GP100 and S&W 629).

Quote:
On the rear sight, the 2 screws in the rear sight blade are for fine tuning the rear sight zero to correspond to a specific range for a specific load.
Test ammo, find what groups tightest that you can buy in quantity. Set rear sight ramp for the intended range, then adjust the blade to zero for best load. Then sliding the ramp should get you pretty close for other distances.
Ok, thanks. Got it!

Quote:
Third, the receiver finish is delicate.
I’d place a thin layer of plastic tape over the grooves, then clamp the scope rings, this should prevent marring the finish, and will help prevent scope slip.
Would you torque the clamps at usual torque settings?
I have 2 scopes mounted on an ISSC SPA (22LR) and a Tikka CTR (308w). Hawke scopes provide the torque figures but the receiver is metal (stainless on the Tikka) not this sort ot zamac stuff : should I use these torque figures?

My gun shop has an E1 in the grave. It's there for spares/parts if needed (but no tunnel and front sight inserts...or spare magazine!). The receiver is broken. He told me to take great care of that.

Quote:
Lastly, the RWS seems like it might be slower, and would need the recoil spring/weight reversed for proper function. Just don’t fire hi speed ammo in that configuration.
Take care!
I only intend on firing CCI Std Vel or RWS Rifle Match as these are the 2 ammo brands I'm carrying for my guns (S&W 617 and ISSC SPA). At first sight, looks like the RWS are the best grouping ones. I'll do further testing.
And keep in mind the recoil weight thing.


Last edited by RITON; 02-23-2019 at 12:41 PM.
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  #109  
Old 02-24-2019, 05:59 PM
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First post after years of lurking with a photo (?).
Two E1s and an A2.
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  #110  
Old 03-07-2019, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnxx View Post
First post after years of lurking with a photo (?).
Two E1s and an A2.

I would be interested if you could post a drawing of the front sight inserts outlining them on graph paper (metric please...).
I know someone that will study the question of having them done on a 3D printer.
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  #111  
Old 03-07-2019, 11:46 AM
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If some of you could correct me, I'm using Google translate for some technical terms that I don't know in english...

So, I finally managed to adjust the azimuth (side ways adjust).
The 2 screws had no effect as the leaf is stuck.
Had to take it off and use a pin punch (5 mm) and tiny hammer.
I made my own flat screwdriver bit too (0.20 mm thick)

Take it easy and don't loose a thing...

Some pics :




On this side of the slide you have a needle screw.


On the other side a spring loaded metal ball


Exploded view


Cursor




Putting it back in place (watch out for the spring loaded ball...if it shoots loose, Murphy's Law)



During work


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  #112  
Old 03-07-2019, 11:52 AM
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Let's go back shooting!

After having side adjusted the rear sight of course.

Sitting, 50 meters, on my elbows on a table, RWS Rifle Match


I'll adjust a little more the side windage (?) at the shooting range, I took all the necessary tools for that. Just being finicky...
Now it's better. The last shots are the ones in a straight line up/down. Still learning how to shoot open sighted!

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  #113  
Old 03-07-2019, 12:01 PM
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3rd day at the range. Gonna be a whole day staying there. Last time I'll shoot so long open sighted. My eyes were sore at the end of the day and got a mega headache. Hopefully a friend could drive me home (1 hour drive) as I was in such a bad condition...

Sitting, 50 meters, elbows/table. For those who would read french, don't pay attention to the writings on the targets as I'm often recycling them.

Best results are with the Rifle Match S (had only one box of them).
The Rifle Match are good too and CCI Std looks like the least satisfying ones.
I'll have to stick with Rifle Match or CCI Std because I buy them in thousands for my other guns/rifles. Don't want a 3rd quality on the shelves. And the Match S is more expensive too...

The rifle is set at 50M with the moderator (I'll call it MDS as in french Moderateur De Son).
Without it, impacts spread and are right handed.

RWS RM + MDS


RWS RM S + MDS


RWS RM + MDS + fast shooting (no more than 2 secondes between shots)


CCI STD + MDS + fast shooting


Some more RM S + MDS (wanted to confirm the good impression)



A last comparision between RM S without MDS and RM without MDS and I'll head for the 100 meter range.
RM S


RM
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  #114  
Old 03-07-2019, 12:12 PM
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And now...my first try on open shooting at 100 meters. I' usually shoot the ISSC SPA with a scope at this distance (or the Tikka T3X CTR/scope and 308 Winch).

At that moment, things are getting hard as my sight is blurry (I'm tiring) and I've been shooting for about 4/5 hours...
Sun is in our back, the targets are dazzling me. Headache is coming slowly but surely...

As I'm nearsighted (eye glasses) and presbyopic (my eyeglasses don't correct this), this is becoming harder and harder.

So my rear sight was zeroed at 50 M. I'll quickly realize that at 100 M my rear sight must be about at 80 M for the Rifle Match and 75 M for the RM S.







Let's see the pictures.

9 shots of RM + MDS (I will now only shoot with the MDS as it spreads impacts less)


10 shots RM + MDS


11 shots RM + MDS + fast shooting


8 shots of RM S this time + MDS + fast shooting.
No more pleasure, headache is killing me now. Gotta go home.


I'd didn't think I'd manage to do anything at 100 M with open sights/
Very surprised.
One thing I won't do again is shoot all day long open sighted!
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  #115  
Old 03-08-2019, 06:40 PM
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I hope this is what you want.
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  #116  
Old 03-09-2019, 03:44 AM
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Puuuuurrrrrfect! Thank you, I'll ask the 3D printer guy if he can make these for me.
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  #117  
Old 04-04-2019, 03:45 PM
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At page 5 there is some talk about Gevarm magazines.
I have found 2 people selling some OEM ones.

1st guy says he has an 8 shot one marked A4 on it.
2nd guy says he has some (how many???) 8 shots and one or two 20 shot ones.
He's out of office at the moment, I'll know for sure this week-end.

Anyways, I was just wondering if all the mags that I'll find will fit my E1. If I read well, all the magazines will go in the E sries but not in the A series as some A series need specific ones.
As I have an E1, I shouldn't bother asking questions and just buy them : they will fit ok?
They are supposed to be OEM and old ones.

Another question :
How do you take the magazine "butt plate" off? I would like to clean it inside, think there is some dirt in there.
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  #118  
Old 06-06-2019, 04:04 PM
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I am very interested in these and would like to communicate further. I include testfire data in my recent book:SMALL-BORE RIFLES A Guide For Rimfire Users.
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  #119  
Old 06-06-2019, 04:36 PM
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Well, I'm still here, not much mouvement on this section...

I finally bought the magazine marked "A4" on it. It fits my Gevarm E1 ok but I haven't test fired it yet (lacking time).
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  #120  
Old 10-04-2019, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnxx View Post
I hope this is what you want.
I found someone to make me my missing inserts. They are made of stainless steel. I didn't like the idea of 3D printing and plastic stuff.
Had to bite the bullet because it was much more expensive than plastic of course.

The guy kept the plans so he can make more if needed.

Picture of the inserts on metric paper. From left to right had the n 1,3 and 5 made.


Metric measures of original insert






I had to file down the pin on the upper outside of the insert. That should be corrected on newer orders to fit better. The SS inserts are thinner too : 0.25 mm.
Collection is now complet.

The 3 upper ones are the SS reproductions. The 2 others are my original ones.

Last edited by RITON; 10-04-2019 at 05:32 AM.
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