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Old 01-22-2015, 01:55 AM
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Adjusting the Anschutz 5109 Trigger on a 1712



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Ok. I've been convinced to show some love for the 5109 trigger that came on my new 1712. Now the question is how to adjust it.

The Anschutz manual is really opaque on this. They show a picture of a single-stage trigger, with the various screws numbered, and then move to a match trigger with the screws numbered. Nowhere is there a picture of the 5109 trigger detailed with the screws identified.

I put a trigger gauge on it and found that it took about 16 oz. to get through the first stage, and another 14-15 oz. to get the 2nd stage to break. I'd like to lighten both stages, but I guess that, if only one can be lightened, it should be the 2nd-stage.

Can anyone point me to some detailed adjustment instructions for the 5109? I'm a little leery about attempting this on my own, but, if I had good instructions, I might attempt it.

Apologies for my ignorance (and timidity) on this.
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Old 01-22-2015, 08:55 AM
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If I can do it, anyone can do it.

You'll need a small screwdriver and a small hex key, I forget what size.



The screw in front controls the pull weight. Start with about 1/8" (3mm) of the screw exposed just to get some weight on it while we set the screw for the second stage (sear engagement).

With the weight screw put where we want it, we now start monkeying around with the screw for the second stage. The adjustment on this screw is pretty sensitive -- it doesn't take much of an adjustment to make a big difference, so make small adjustments, test your work, then try again. Start by turning the screw inward a turn or two. If it goes all the way in you will have a single stage trigger; no problem with that and that's not a bad place to start.

Now, back the second-stage screw out 1/8 of a turn and test the trigger by dry firing. Did you feel a sharp, crisp, positive stop between the end of the first stage and the final pull needed to trip the trigger? Did you get a nice crisp break as the trigger tripped? If not, turn the screw out another 1/8 of a turn, cock the bolt, and try it again. Lather, rinse, repeat until you get a positive, crisp stop between the first and second stage with a nice crisp break as the trigger releases. If you go too far you will have the trigger tripping without first feeling a stop as it hits the second stage. Just turn it in about a half-turn and start over from there.

Once you have the break you want between first and second stages, go back and fiddle with the first screw.... the one for setting pull weight... until you get it where you want it. Turning it in makes the pull weight heavier. Once you have the weight where you want it you might find you have to fine tune the second-stage screw again as adjusting one can affect the other.

On the flip side of the trigger you will find a small hex screw that loosens the trigger blade so it can be moved fore or aft to suit your preference for LOP.



After any messing around with the trigger I always do a couple of czechs to make sure I have a safe trigger. I do them with the stock removed just to avoid any risk of damage to the stock. I start by opening the bolt, slamming it forward, closing the handle and then pulling the trigger. Did the trigger release? If not, the gun went off when the bolt slammed forward. Need some more weight or more sear engagement (that second stage).

Next, I'll cock and close the bolt then whack on the action with the heel of my hand or a soft-rubber mallet. Does the gun go off? If so, the trigger needs some fine tuning. Note that you might have to pull the trigger to see if it has already gone off.... sometimes you can't hear that faint click with all the whacking going on.

Lastly, reczech the function of the safety. Close the bolt, set the safety, pull the trigger. The gun should not fire. Release the safety. The gun should not fire. Now pull the trigger. The gun should fire.

That's it -- as easy as cake, a piece of pie.
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Last edited by Sophia; 08-05-2017 at 09:07 PM.
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Old 01-22-2015, 10:02 AM
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As usual Sophia has done an excellent job. And thanks for a little Otis Redding.

I went through this same exercise yesterday out in my shop with my 1712. I'm really not a fan of the two stage trigger, and mine seems to have a pretty long take-up on the first stage. I was reading somewhere and ran upon an article on how to adjust the Anschutz two stage trigger. In that article were instructions for reducing the length of the first stage. Hot dog!....I thought.

Upon getting mine out of the stock, I quickly discovered the article as about a different two stage trigger. So out of desperation, I pulled the CD that came with the gun from the box and took a look. It had instructions for adjusting the trigger....but in German and did not have them in English..... So I did the next best thing, I did a search on the 5109 trigger on Gunbroker and found excellent information. I also discovered there are basically only three adjustments.....you can move the trigger fore and aft, you can adjust the sear engagement, and you can adjust the trigger pull. No adjustment for first stage travel or independent pull adjustment for first and second stage....one affects the other.

One thing you can do is substitute a lighter trigger spring to reduce pull weight....just do as Sophia says and check to make sure it is safe. I left my spring as is.

Last edited by pump .22s; 01-22-2015 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 01-22-2015, 10:24 AM
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I think I'll stick this one for future reference!
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:14 AM
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Wow! Holy Moses, what a great tutorial, Sophia. Many many thanks for taking the time and including the picture. Anschutz should put those instructions into their manual.

Now that I have perfectly clear, unambiguous instructions, I think I can overcome my fear of things mechanical, and will go ahead and probably screw it up....
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Old 01-22-2015, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by South_Pender View Post
Wow! Holy Moses, what a great tutorial, Sophia. Many many thanks for taking the time and including the picture. Anschutz should put those instructions into their manual.

Now that I have perfectly clear, unambiguous instructions, I think I can overcome my fear of things mechanical, and will go ahead and probably screw it up....
As long as you do not lose one of those screws, you should be good!!

Just got off the phone with Pump22's and discussed this very thing. He told me this was already up on the board, so I came to check it out. I also have a 1712 and for me that one is good as it is now. Got lucky on adjusting it early on a while back. The reason for the call to Pump was so I could get info on A DIFFERENT two stage trigger. The 1407-U9 trigger. (Andyd, not your trigger, yours was already expertly adjusted!) I had pulled my old Anschutz 1407 and did a bedding job. I went to put the trigger back in and had a non-functioning trigger. I found that I needed to install that trigger with the bolt in the rifle for it to properly mate with the sear.

The reason for this monologue is to say, we could use a similar thread on each of the more common Anschutz triggers so we can all reap the full benefits of these fine triggers... They do tend to spoil us shooters. I go back to what I had always thought of as a great trigger in my CZ's and get a little chuckle... Not really a comparison, although, I can buy another CZ for what one of these new triggers cost!!! You seem to get what you pay for here for sure....
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Old 01-22-2015, 05:15 PM
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Thank you for this informative thread Sophia. Like Pumps I had my disc out the other day only to discover it too is only in German.
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Old 01-22-2015, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Man 58 View Post
Thank you for this informative thread Sophia. Like Pumps I had my disc out the other day only to discover it too is only in German.
There is actually a folder in the labeled "En", which I assume is for English. Problem is, the folder is empty. The other folder has instructions in German.
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Old 01-25-2015, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Sophia View Post
I should also have made a photo with the trigger turned the other way so you could also see the screw you loosen to move the trigger blade fore or aft.
One thing I will add to this is that this screw, the trigger LOP screw which has a hex head is very tight and has "loctite" applied to it's threads from the factory, it can easily be rounded out. It is recommended to first heat the screw with a heat gun before attempting to loosen the screw for adjustment, don't ask me how I know this. Why in the world the Germans would use Loctite on a screw this small and as tight as they set it is beyond me.
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Old 01-29-2015, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Man 58 View Post
One thing I will add to this is that this screw, the trigger LOP screw which has a hex head is very tight and has "loctite" applied to it's threads from the factory, it can easily be rounded out. It is recommended to first heat the screw with a heat gun before attempting to loosen the screw for adjustment, don't ask me how I know this. Why in the world the Germans would use Loctite on a screw this small and as tight as they set it is beyond me.
Funny, I had to order a new one of those screws too. Heat gun ya say!?
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Old 02-28-2015, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pump .22s View Post
As usual Sophia has done an excellent job. And thanks for a little Otis Redding.

I went through this same exercise yesterday out in my shop with my 1712. I'm really not a fan of the two stage trigger, and mine seems to have a pretty long take-up on the first stage. I was reading somewhere and ran upon an article on how to adjust the Anschutz two stage trigger. In that article were instructions for reducing the length of the first stage. Hot dog!....I thought.

Upon getting mine out of the stock, I quickly discovered the article as about a different two stage trigger. So out of desperation, I pulled the CD that came with the gun from the box and took a look. It had instructions for adjusting the trigger....but in German and did not have them in English..... So I did the next best thing, I did a search on the 5109 trigger on Gunbroker and found excellent information. I also discovered there are basically only three adjustments.....you can move the trigger fore and aft, you can adjust the sear engagement, and you can adjust the trigger pull. No adjustment for first stage travel or independent pull adjustment for first and second stage....one affects the other.

One thing you can do is substitute a lighter trigger spring to reduce pull weight....just do as Sophia says and check to make sure it is safe. I left my spring as is.
Pump .22s (or Sophia or anyone), I just got the spring set from J&P and am unclear just where to put it. Do you simply back the screw labeled "weight" in Sophia`s excellent tutorial above right out (i.e., temporarily removing it completely) and replace the spring that`s there with the lighter one, then putting that weight screw back to about where it was previously?
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Old 02-28-2015, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by South_Pender View Post
Pump .22s (or Sophia or anyone), I just got the spring set from J&P and am unclear just where to put it. Do you simply back the screw labeled "weight" in Sophia`s excellent tutorial above right out (i.e., temporarily removing it completely) and replace the spring that`s there with the lighter one, then putting that weight screw back to about where it was previously?
Exactly. The tension is adjusted by how far you screw it in. If all the way is not enough, go to a heavier spring. This is not a two-stage trigger that is designed for very light pull weight. Since the first stage cannot be independently adjusted, the first stage pull pretty much goes away with low tension. I have my total pull weight at about 16 ounces, but the first stage is probably no more that 1-2 ounces, essentially a single stage operation. But it's still an excellent break, so no complaints.
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Old 02-28-2015, 04:36 PM
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Well that went swimmingly. NOT. I removed the weight screw completely, but couldn't get the spring out. It seems to be held captive by something that I can't see. I had thought it might just drop out, but no. I pried at it with tweezers and a tiny screwdriver and couldn't get it to budge. So no spring replacement at the moment. Bummer.

One thing that surprised me a little is that the weight screw was easy to unscrew with just my fingers. I guess it had been screwed in to its lightest position.
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Old 02-28-2015, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by South_Pender View Post
Well that went swimmingly. NOT. I removed the weight screw completely, but couldn't get the spring out. It seems to be held captive by something that I can't see. I had thought it might just drop out, but no. I pried at it with tweezers and a tiny screwdriver and couldn't get it to budge. So no spring replacement at the moment. Bummer.

One thing that surprised me a little is that the weight screw was easy to unscrew with just my fingers. I guess it had been screwed in to its lightest position.
Once the screw has been removed slide a jewelers screwdriver blade in between 2 of the spring colis at the bottom of the spring then lift up and slide the spring out towards the front.
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Old 03-01-2015, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by South_Pender View Post
Pump .22s (or Sophia or anyone), I just got the spring set from J&P and am unclear just where to put it. Do you simply back the screw labeled "weight" in Sophia`s excellent tutorial above right out (i.e., temporarily removing it completely) and replace the spring that`s there with the lighter one, then putting that weight screw back to about where it was previously?
South Pender....sorry I didn't get right back to your question, but I mistakenly deleted the email notifying me of your post. I see Old Man 58 and elh0102 have pretty much answered the question for you. In my case, once the adjusting screw was removed, it was no problem to remove the spring. At that point, I could have easily replaced it with a different spring had I chosen to, but I decided to stay with the factory spring, as it adjusted down pretty well for me.
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