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  #1  
Old 03-08-2014, 01:58 AM
Powderfinger

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CZ 511 Disassembly/Assembly Resources and Guide



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As some will know, I purchased second hand (1993) CZ model 511 semi-auto .22lr recently. I noticed that the previous owner had performed some trigger work on the rifle, leaving the trigger pull gritty. I also wanted to strip the fire control components right down for a thorough clean, so I searched online and found this useful resource:

http://books.google.co.nz/books?id=0...sembly&f=false

I was able to reduce the rifle to its major groups very quickly with the help of the visual aids and instructions found on this page. However it is important to note that at “Step 11”, the author suggests that if it is necessary to remove the hammer and trigger parts, you must drift out a staked or riveted pin, allowing the hammer to come free….

DO NOT DO THIS – it is not necessary – there is an easier way.

There may have been changes to the model before or after this book was printed but let me say that it is a mistake to attempt removal of ANY staked pin on the housing. Once again, do not do it! They are in tight and you run the risk of bending the metal, causing fitting issues, cycling problems and possibly permanent damage.

The CZ511 shows typical quality design and ease of disassembly/reassembly – you just have to know a couple of tricks. I hope this guide helps get you there.

Assuming you have successfully removed the trigger mechanism housing from the receiver, you will only need the following tools to remove the hammer and trigger parts.

1) A good old paper clip
2) A slave pin – my one is .1150” (2.9mm) in diameter and .31” (7.9mm) long.
3) A .1” pin punch or small screwdriver.



It is also worth having the following PDF handy to help see the big picture, I will refer to the part numbers and names used therein:

http://stevespages.com/pdf/cz511.pdf

Disassembly

Step 1. Remove the hammer strut and main spring.


This step is made easier by the realisation that things are not always as they appear. Firstly the Mainspring Support lug (32) is not a fixed part of the Trigger Mechanism Housing (38) as you may assume, and secondly the Hammer (28) is not drilled, but has a “U” shaped lug cut into it and is held in place by spring tension rather than the pin it pivots on. Look at the parts diagram before you proceed.

Take the Trigger Mechanism Housing (38) in your hand and pull the hammer back to the cocked position. You will notice that the Hammer Strut (31) protrudes through the back of the Mainspring Support Lug (32) revealing a small hole drilled through the strut.



Pulling the hammer back a little further past the cocked position exposes the hole fully. Take your paper clip, thread it through this hole and then bend it to roughly the shape you see in the photo. Now pull the trigger. You will see that the paper clip has taken tension off the hammer by preventing the strut from travelling within the spring.



Be aware that the mainspring support lug also forms a ‘lid’ for the Safety Catch Spring (43), which will soon be exposed. It is not under great tension and does not appear to want to fly off, but YMMV so be ready when following this next part of the process. Take hold of your paper clip and push the strut/spring/lug forward towards the hammer and lift it slightly upwards. You will find it removes easily from the back of the housing. See how the lug works? Have a good look - this helps for when you have to put it back together.

If you need or want to separate the spring, lug and strut, you can place the components in a small clamp or vise, compress the spring, then remove the paper clip and slowly unwind the clamp. Simple stuff and easily reversed for reassembly.



Now you can remove the hammer, simply by pushing it forward. Studying the disassembled parts reveals the ingenuity of the system.



You now have access to not only the parts you have removed but also the safety catch components (41,42,43) and their recesses for cleaning as necessary. I remove them completely for the next step, to avoid them falling out and vanishing.

Step 2. Remove the trigger and sear system.

This is easy. Simply locate and establish which side of the Trigger Pin (37) does not have the ‘head’ on it and push it out using your punch or small screwdriver. It is not staked like the other pins. Being aware of the slight pressure created by two springs, it is now easy to remove the Trigger (35) and Sear (33) from the housing, along with their (interchangeable) springs (36). Job done.





You now have the critical components of the fire control system free to clean, modify or do with what you please. I will not be going into modification of the trigger here. It can be done and I am happy to offer advice via PM but I strongly urge you to use the services of a gunsmith for tuning of the 511 trigger – the potential exists for automatic fire and safety catch failure with even slight adjustment of critical angles. You have been warned.

Reassembly

Step 1. Reassembling the trigger and sear system.


This is more challenging than the disassembly phase. First you must locate the sear spring in its recess in the trigger.



Next locate the sear so that the sear lug comes into position over the end of the spring, (NOTE: It is possible to crush the sear down into the spring coils, thus damaging the spring… you must make sure not to do this – ensure the spring END is in contact with the sear). You can check that the sear is correctly 'collecting' and contacting the spring while you scoop it into position simply by checking the view from the underside of the trigger - like the view in the above photo. Use a little pressure from your fingernail to compress the spring slightly if you have trouble.

Then push the sear backwards and down so its pin hole aligns with the hole in the trigger. Take your slave pin and insert it, thereby linking these three components together. Make sure your slave pin does not protrude on either side of the trigger.



Next, locate the trigger spring in its recess.



Then lower the trigger/sear/spring assembly back down into position, ensuring the trigger spring fits into its recess on the trigger. Align the pin holes and simply push the original trigger pin through – it will drive out the slave as it goes. Done.


Step 2. Reassembling the hammer system

Make sure you have reinstalled the safety catch system correctly (hint: red band on the left of the trigger) before attempting the next step. I have found that a little dab of grease can help stop these parts moving around while you are working.

Take the hammer and locate it on its pivot pin. You will find that pressure from the sear spring holds it somewhat securely in the ‘fired’ position. Next, grab hold of the paperclip and attached parts and thread the strut/spring/lug back in through the rear of the housing. You will see the ball pivot at the front of the strut almost naturally aligns with its corresponding recess in the back of the hammer.



Next you must seat the lug in its corresponding notch, and let it slide back over the safety spring. This is helped with a little pressure here and there with your punch or screwdriver and just takes a bit of working out for yourself. You will find that when you get it right, the lug locates nicely and sits snug down over the safety spring with ease. If the safety is not assembled correctly the spring will protrude too far to make this an easy job. If you get stuck, try moving the hammer back a little – you will get there eventually!

Once this is done, you can remove the paper clip by moving the hammer manually back to the cocked position, then a little further, relieving pressure on the paperclip. Straighten it out and pull it free from the hole in the strut.

Congratulations! You have just stripped the fire control system and reassembled it with no blunt force trauma and probably only a fraction of the stress. I hope this helps – PM me if you need more info.

Powderfinger.

Last edited by Powderfinger; 03-09-2014 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 03-08-2014, 03:45 AM
trichard
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nice job on documenting this procedure Powderfinger, not sure if i'll need to do my 581 but i'll bookmark your post to keep it handy. parts are scarce for these and wouldn't want to take a chance damaging anything and thanks for the tip on using the paper clip on the hammer strut.
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Old 03-08-2014, 07:54 AM
9 fingers

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Powderfinger, you are a brave man to learn and do what you have done. With no parts available I have decided it best to just leave mine alone as is. But I too will bookmark your excellent presentation should I get the nerve to try this. I actually have 2 511s now so I suppose one could be for emergency backup parts.
9 fingers
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Old 03-08-2014, 08:43 AM
Earl Baugher
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Cool nicely done...

if you're NOT a teacher in real life, you missed your calling... Let's add photography and engineering, while I'm at it. Thanks!
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Old 03-08-2014, 10:47 AM
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This is so good it's going in a sticky.
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Old 03-08-2014, 02:52 PM
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Excellent presentation but I would remind folks to use caution due to the lack of parts.
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Old 03-08-2014, 08:39 PM
Powderfinger

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Hi all - thanks for your kind words.

Yes it is worth remembering the lack of parts availability for the CZ511 and Brno 581. You should always carry out this sort of work in a near-clinical environment so parts that do fall out or spring off can be easily found. I often work with a large loudspeaker magnet nearby to 'stick' parts to while they are disassembled.

I will add however that after learning the hard way and following the incorrect directions contained in the link above, that should you have the need or want to do this work, you are highly unlikely to damage anything if you stick to the steps I have outlined. The springs are possibly the only vulnerable parts, and you would have to be very rough to damage them. Even if you did, it would be easy enough to find suitable replacements. Anyhow, very unlikely with a bit of care.

I would venture that the system I detailed is the only logical way to assemble the parts and was likely followed in the factory when the rifle was made.

In short, if you are going to do it, you are far less likely to need to replace anything this way than you are by bashing out staked pins etc - hence my original post. Don't be afraid, but don't do it if you are not comfortable with this sort of thing.

Lastly, I can help anyone who has damaged their trigger, has safety catch failure and/or automatic fire problems. I know there will be people out there with these issues. Please get in touch via PM if I can assist with getting your rifle running safely again.

Last edited by Powderfinger; 03-09-2014 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 03-09-2014, 10:43 PM
DeadeyeDave

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Excellent.i always have a bear of a time getting that hammer strut back in.
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Old 10-14-2014, 03:52 PM
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Hi powder finger thanks for this very helpful post, whilst trawling for a lighter trigger solution for my CZ511 I came across an old [archived thread] on google over the weekend.
I am not sure if anyone has tried it but but the trick was to swap out the trigger spring of your 511 with one from a ruger 10/22, the spring was a little shorter claimed the author but also a good bit lighter and easily available of course [spares anyone?]
Needless to say an online order was placed with Chambers gun makers in the UK and the spring sits on my desk awaiting fitting.
Any thoughts anyone or has it been done already? I will hold off fitting the spring for a day or two in case there is an issue with this mod.
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:54 PM
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"I am not sure if anyone has tried it but but the trick was to swap out the trigger spring of your 511 with one from a ruger 10/22, the spring was a little shorter claimed the author but also a good bit lighter and easily available of course"
Haven't come across that thread & would appreciate a link and/or an update.Have used Chambers a few times & always been happy with their service.
Regards: Duncan

Last edited by drut; 10-21-2014 at 02:55 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-28-2015, 01:54 PM
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mrlogik

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trigger spring mod

Quote:
Originally Posted by drut View Post
"I am not sure if anyone has tried it but but the trick was to swap out the trigger spring of your 511 with one from a ruger 10/22, the spring was a little shorter claimed the author but also a good bit lighter and easily available of course"
Haven't come across that thread & would appreciate a link and/or an update.Have used Chambers a few times & always been happy with their service.
Regards: Duncan
Hi Drut here is the link, note the final mod on page 2 at bottom which really smoothed out the trigger,
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...=cz511+trigger
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:01 AM
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Thumbs up

Hello Powderfinger: Bravo from Spain.
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Old 02-05-2016, 11:15 PM
Dabre

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brno 581

Powderfinger..

I bought a Brno 581 today. It started to rapid fire almost immediately.
Took it home and cleaned it. Was very dirty.
I don't know if this will solve my problem or not.
what do you think about a spot weld on either the trigger or sear?
Other solution?

Great article by the way.

Dan
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Old 02-06-2016, 03:52 AM
Powderfinger

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Sorry to hear that. I have emailed you some info.
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Old 07-27-2017, 02:28 PM
Rafael
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Sorry I'm not adhering to the original thread, but at least I'm on 511.

I am a dedicated hunter and competition shooter. About ten years ago I bought a 511 I would like to use in IPSC Rimfire Rifle Competition. It's still almost pristine. I know there are better options but I am fond of the brand and have developed great confidence in it, particularly since it just doesn't seem to know how to jam.

But its magazines are a bit too small for that use, since most stages take al least 12-14 shots.

My question is, does anyone know if the brand manufactured any bigger magazines?

Tiny groups.

Rafael.
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