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  #46  
Old 09-01-2013, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCD View Post
Not at all detracting from your fine work. As I said earlier I think it is amazing!

I guess that's why I still use a rod and brushes

Only other question is when the brush wears out you have to make a whole new assembly? Or one for every caliber. You have it down to a science and can probably make hundreds , mere mortals such as myself are not as talented and are lazy
Yep, when its worn out I just toss it. Once you get a system down for making them, it's an assembly line process.

-Cut off the threads from a pile of brushes

-Set up and drill them

-Taper them on a bench sander

-Polish

- Cut lengths of trimmer line

- Score trimmer line for gluing

-Glue together

Not all that hard once you've done a few. Not all brushes work for this, though.
The Otis ones seem to have the steel wire that holds the bristles crimped in at the extreme far end of the brass swage, so there's plenty of room to drill to a depth of 1/4-5/16"

DrGunner
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  #47  
Old 09-01-2013, 12:13 PM
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  #48  
Old 09-01-2013, 08:08 PM
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I have made several of the tools but with a slight difference I put a small crimp as well as glue on the joint then cover it with heat shrink.
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  #49  
Old 09-14-2013, 02:07 PM
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Question

OK, I made my prototype today of the button patch puller.

Put a bolt in a soldering iron like yours.

I can not seem to make the button wider? I leave it on there and it melts but just gets longer (up the line) ? Reaches a certain diameter and then that's it. Just enough for a 22 but I want to make larger ones also.

Is it because I am pushing to Hard or not enough or what??

I have the iron and bolt in a vise straight up , not sideways like your pic.
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  #50  
Old 09-14-2013, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCD View Post
OK, I made my prototype today of the button patch puller.

Put a bolt in a soldering iron like yours.

I can not seem to make the button wider? I leave it on there and it melts but just gets longer (up the line) ? Reaches a certain diameter and then that's it. Just enough for a 22 but I want to make larger ones also.

Is it because I am pushing to Hard or not enough or what??

I have the iron and bolt in a vise straight up , not sideways like your pic.
What wattage is the soldering iron? What kind of trimmer line? I have found that you need to use a 40 W at least.
Also, the ground Gatorline made by Oregon Trimmer line has worked best for me.

You should not need to push hard, just even study pressure. The soldering iron needs to be HOT.

Hope this helps-

DrGunner
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  #51  
Old 09-14-2013, 06:47 PM
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It' .095 line from Homer Depot , Rhino . The iron is twice the size of yours it is a antique/classic was my grandfathers, size of a baton!it's 100W. It takes a long time to heat up there is so much metal in it. Probably was not hot enough. I am used to my soldiering gun, pull the trigger kind.

I did another and made it bigger. Need to order some Otis brushes
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  #52  
Old 06-10-2014, 09:16 AM
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That Rhino line works fine. I also made an adapter out of brass about 11/16'' long tapped one end 8-32 for brushes and jags then the other end 4-40. Ran a 4-40 die onto the .095 trimmer line and screwed it in the adapter. Works great and I don't see the line ever pulling out.
Thanks DrGunner for your inspiration.
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  #53  
Old 06-10-2014, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by hd09 View Post
That Rhino line works fine. I also made an adapter out of brass about 11/16'' long tapped one end 8-32 for brushes and jags then the other end 4-40. Ran a 4-40 die onto the .095 trimmer line and screwed it in the adapter. Works great and I don't see the line ever pulling out.
Thanks DrGunner for your inspiration.
How about some pics of that critter for the rest of us?

DrGunner
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  #54  
Old 07-02-2014, 08:14 AM
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Sorry it took so long to get back, been everywhere but here. The hardest part was attaching the brass to the line, hard to hold. The line must swell up some when a die is run on it. I must be a little dumb I cant post a pick. Maybe I'll learn someday. I did make it on a mini lathe, probably be a lot more difficult with out one to drill straight and to the right depth.
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  #55  
Old 07-02-2014, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hd09 View Post
Sorry it took so long to get back, been everywhere but here. The hardest part was attaching the brass to the line, hard to hold. The line must swell up some when a die is run on it. I must be a little dumb I cant post a pick. Maybe I'll learn someday. I did make it on a mini lathe, probably be a lot more difficult with out one to drill straight and to the right depth.
I would really like to see the pics shared here to further the info available for the membership.

Hosting Pics on Photobucket for FREE:

The amount of data you can upload is severely limited, as the RFC server would have to be HUGE to hold all the jpegs. Start a free photobucket account, then upload your pics and copy a link to the IMG file in Photobucket and paste it in the "Reply to thread" box here. You can post multiple pics in one reply, but try to limit yourself to 2 or 3 per reply or they will be downsized automatically.
As long as you don't remove or delete the original file, it will appear here. You might want to allocate your photobucket albums as private, or anyone will be able to stalk yo bucket...

If this is all too much, send me a PM, I will reply with my email address and you can send the pics directly to me. I will upload the pics to my Pbucket acct and host them for you.

Hope this helps,

DrG
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  #56  
Old 07-02-2014, 03:51 PM
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[IMG][/IMG]Here it is I made 2 different ones a .200 and a .230 outside diameter. Thought it would be good for larger calibers.
Thanks DrG

Last edited by hd09; 07-03-2014 at 06:03 AM. Reason: got smarter
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  #57  
Old 07-03-2014, 08:58 AM
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Here's the other pic from hd09... Looks like a really nice MODULAR adaptation of the Brushsnake- allowing users to swap out parts at will.

Very Cool!!!



DrGunner
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  #58  
Old 07-12-2014, 07:27 PM
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Tip -Use a bit of wax

Great ideas Dr. G! Thanks for sharing your great stuff.

I've made a lot of the weed whacker pull thru gizmo's. I found that using a bit of wax on the end of the heating element keeps the plastic from sticking so badly, and allows me to slide off the formed "knot" off the heater. I used cast bullet lube, but paste wax or even candle wax will probably work.
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  #59  
Old 07-12-2014, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunsmither View Post
Great ideas Dr. G! Thanks for sharing your great stuff.

I've made a lot of the weed whacker pull thru gizmo's. I found that using a bit of wax on the end of the heating element keeps the plastic from sticking so badly, and allows me to slide off the formed "knot" off the heater. I used cast bullet lube, but paste wax or even candle wax will probably work.
Thanks for that! I tried candle wax, but found that the button would "boil", inducing bubbles in the end result- maybe I need a bigger bolt head to dissipate heat, thus lowering the temperature?

I will definitely try the wax again- although I have been making them with steel wool to clean the head of the iron for so long, it's just become a part of my process.
Any char left behind tends to melt into the button, and I've found the cleaner the button, the stronger.

Time to see what kinds of wax I have around to experiment with.

I appreciate the input!!!

Regards,

DrGunner
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  #60  
Old 09-01-2014, 02:39 PM
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Update-

I decided to make a batch of handles out of brass rod stock. Amazon has Hoppes .22 cal 3 piece brass cleaning rods for $8.86, free shipping for Prime members.
The rod kit also has a loop jag and cylindrical push type jag.
I found the brass to be MUCH easier to work with when drilling and tapping.
First, the original male threads from the sectional rod are cut off and each section is ground flat and perpendicular to the axis of the rod on the male end. An 8/32 tap is then run into the "female" end. The flat end is then drilled and tapped as described previously in this thread resulting in straight rod sections that are drilled and tapped for 8/32 threads on both ends. Each of these sections was then polished on a cotton rag wheel using jewelers rouge. After polishing, they were cleaned thoroughly and the threaded sockets in each end were flushed out with solvent a few times and then well oiled. Next comes bending of the finger loop.
Bending the brass around the 5/8" deep well (spark plug) socket/bubba jig requires the use of more heat than aluminum. I use a spark plug socket because it has a hexagonal outer surface at its base and therefore is easier to lock into a vise for good stability. After heating about 2 inches of the center of the rod with Mapp gas wearing heavy leather gloves, I was only able to wrap the rod around the socket and cross the ends before things tightened up. Forcing the issue at this point cracked one of them which you will see as a single loop handle in the pics.
So I simply took the units back to the torch and applied heat to the loop area up to where the rod crossed itself and reheated for 30- 45 seconds, applying heat to both sides before taking it back to the jig for a final shaping. A quick touch up buffing on the wheel is then needed.
I then applied a layer of Maguires paste wax to keep them from oxidizing.




I have to say that these rods are much easier to machine, much stronger when bent to their final configuration, and simply have a better look and feel of quality in my hands. I will be using brass exclusively from now on.

DrGunner

Last edited by DrGunner; 09-02-2014 at 09:53 AM.
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