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  #16  
Old 05-04-2012, 02:33 PM
beercansnipe

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I forgot to mention i drilled and filled the crack on the side. you can see what i mean in some of the fiberglass photos. I do not know how bad this crack is but i did my best to find the end it. I then drilled it out with about a 1/4 bit about as deep as i could without hitting any inlets. After that i filled with high grade epoxy to just below the surface, the filled with void compound. I am pretty sure its very strong.

The fiberglass came out welll and i believe that the repair is quite strong too. I almost fell when i was working on it in the garage and i caught myself on the butt of the rifle while it was chucked in a vice. It survived intact (and so did I). Hopefully it will never be subjected to such punishment again though...
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  #17  
Old 05-05-2012, 12:44 AM
beercansnipe

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Thank you

Thanks Flysalot. What do you fly? Lots of these chemicals are used in the aircraft industry. I bet you some of them like the 3m 2216 epoxy are on every single plane you fly (if you are a commercial pilot for a major company).
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  #18  
Old 05-06-2012, 12:41 PM
beercansnipe

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grip coating

After reading more I am starting to lean away from rhino liner. Krylon has a non skid product that I might try on a test board. I have also heard of using combinations of sealant or resins and a grit medium like walnut shells.

Anyone got any great ideas?
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  #19  
Old 05-06-2012, 10:28 PM
beercansnipe

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I have done some work on the cheek piece. this is how the hardware setup will work.



and this is the cheek piece ( sorry its sideways)



OK we are getting somewhere now. I decided that I needed a set screw for the adjustable cheek piece. I tried to drill the bushings and they were as hard as I have ever seen. I think I could hear the bushing laugh at me when I hit it with a regular drill bit. the bit did nothing more than put a tiny dent in the steel after about 1 min of drilling with lots of oil and pressure. So a new strategy was needed. (I don't have a carbide bit in the right size, that would be another option)

If the bushings are harder than the dill bit your not going to be able to drill.... so I'll make them softer.

I tried torching the bushings until red hot and then letting them cool slowly in the air(annealing). By doing this we reverse treatments that the bushing has had in the past to make it extremely hard. If you were to heat it cherry red then drop it in mater or oil it would have almost the opposite affect.



It worked well the steel is much softer now. Go slow with the drill and use lots of oil. we want that hole just right for threading, There is not a lot of metal to work with.



But be sure you read the box for your taps correctly and use the right drill bit. or you will have to drill 2 holes like me.

After drilling the bushing with the correct drill I used a hand tool to tap the hole. If anyone wants to know more about threading let me know and ill put up a link or something.



You can also see in the picture above the color change from heating the bushing. If iI' not mistaken this is caused by oxidation and is a good indicator that you got it plenty hot enough to anneal it.

Next I found a driil bit just a bit larger than the head of the screw to drill down into the stock from the side. I drew some guiding lines and just put a board under the stock to help me steady it in the drill press. I did not use any clamps this time, but it is important to get this hole straight or the set screw will bind against wood. I guess I got lucky as it fits just right now.



I then epoxied the bushing into the wood. But first i greased the screw with crisco just in case it got epoxy in the threads some how. I also used very little epoxy since i dont want it making a mess of the holes. The bushing fit quite tightly into the holes so the small amount of glue should work fine. I only put enough on both surfaces (wood and steel) to leave a very very thin layer on each. Once its in drop in the set screw and make sure everything is lined up just right and leave it alone for 24 hours.

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  #20  
Old 05-09-2012, 02:31 PM
beercansnipe

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Getting there

Well I painted the barrel. I used rustoleum hammered silver. he finish is not as hammered or even as I would like, but it looks good and i think i will keep it like this.

I began by sanding the barrel with 320 grit sandpaper. I did not remove all the paint, that russian paint was stuck on really well. I figured it would only give me more bite.



The barrel almost looked like carbon fiber when I was sanding. The indentations are caused by hammer forging. (funny right, hammered finish on a hammered barrel.) At the muzzle end it had been turned down to receive a front sight. That leaves you with a little lip of steel we need to make disappear. There is also a bunch of little bits of glue in the same area from gluing on the front sight.

So how do we make all that crap go away?



I used primer, and sanded in between coats. By laying the primer on in many coats and sanding in between, one can get rid of those small blemishes. This is the same technique used on cars.

After sanding the barrel I put a tie-wrap through the rear action screw hole to give me a place to hang it from. I then taped off the muzzle and the front face of the action. Then I also taped a plastic grocery bag around the rest of the action (dont want any paint messing things up).





Next I degreased with a fast evaporating aerosol degreaser, and blew the barrel dry with compressed air.

Now its time to shoot some paint.

Painting is an art... it takes practice to get this right. I tried everything on a test board too as i was unfamiliar with these particular paints.



Use spray paint with care. Over spray can travel a good long way before settling on your car, or other valuables that over spray seems to be attracted to. I shot the paint in an alley behind my house about 25 yards away just to be safe. Then she got hung up in the garage to dry between coats. Make sure to let the primer dry long enough between coats. If you don't the primer will feel dry but is still pliable and will sand very poorly, and you will have to shoot that area several more times to get it right again. So be patient, at least 20 minutes between coats (this is when i grab a good local brew and a cigarette).

As the primer builds up you lightly use the sandpaper to even things out. Your just trying to knock down the high spots. I ended up with 3 coats on most of the barrel and about 3 or 4 more coats at the muzzle end to get things smooth.

I let that dry. I moved on to another project. I want this rifle to sit heavy on the bags. So my shaky hands have less affect on my shooting. I already have a few great rifles that are lightweight. I pulled apart some old shotgun shells and pulled the bird shot out of them. I then drilled some large holes in the butt stock to put it in.

The drill press gods were angry with me today and I accidentally tore some of the wood off at the top of the hole I drilled. Not good but also not a big deal either. I will just fill it in later on.

After drilling the holes I measured how much shot I could get in the holes. Then i mixed the shot with just enough fiberglass resin to coat the shot thorughly. And spooned the mix into the holes with a paper funnel. Finally i filled it with extra resin to just below flush (make sure not to use to much activator or you could burn the stock). If my calculations are right this rifle will weigh between 13 and 14 pounds when done.





I will post pictures of the finished barrel later after i pull the tape. I will write more about the hammered finish too.
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  #21  
Old 05-12-2012, 09:53 AM
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midwest swiss
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Your doing a fine job there beercan.
I use auto body bondo on rifle stocks and works very well.
I think you selected the perfect rifle for your fun project...

Keep use up dated when ya can....OK

Swiss

Last edited by midwest swiss; 05-13-2012 at 11:19 PM.
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  #22  
Old 05-12-2012, 01:10 PM
beercansnipe

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thanks

Thank you swiss, I'll post more soon. I really enjoy hearing what y'all think about it.

My father just bought his first decent scope today too. It's a Weaver t-24. He was set on buying a Mueller 8-32, But i found a guy nearby selling a new in box Weaver T24 for $245 dollars. He even has the receipt so i should be able to use the warranty if anything is wrong. Now he'll be able to see the targets!
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  #23  
Old 05-13-2012, 10:22 PM
wheelism
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Kurt,

I'm really enjoying watching the transformation of your CM-2. Your step-by-step photos are outstanding. Keep up the great work.

Mike
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  #24  
Old 05-14-2012, 02:42 PM
beercansnipe

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Thanks mike.

I shot primer yesterday and she is looking sweet. currently wet sanding.....

I have a lot more to post soon.

Thanks again
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  #25  
Old 05-14-2012, 09:06 PM
beercansnipe

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Began finishing.

Ok, so a lot more is done now,

I decided not to use the galvanized bolts in the cheek piece. I found some stainless rod laying sround and I was lucky it was an exact fit... I Chucked it in the drill press and attacked it with sandpaper to make it smaller and polished. Then i cut some grooves around its circumference at one end to give the epoxy more to bite on. I repeated this process so I had 2 rods the right size and fit to fit into each bushing. I checked that they would move easily up and down in the bushings, then glued on some washers...





The washer will give me metal to metal contact when the cheek piece is closed. I sealed the inner diameter of the washer to the bolt with a small amount of super glue.

Next I dropped each rod back in place and put some more super glue on the top of the washer to make a seal against the wood on the bottom of the cheek piece. I held the cheek piece in place where I wanted it for about a minute. Let it dry for about 15 minutes. Now its all sealed so the epoxy will not run out of the bottom of the hole (2216 is runny for a long time after mixing).

Now it was time to glue it in. I put tin foil over the wood just in case things got messy.



Fast forward 24 hours, and the glue is all set up and seems to be quite strong. The bushing came out just parallel enough i guess, as it moves up and done with only light finger pressure. I' am going to grind a flat on the side of the rod that has the set screw. This will allow the set screw to contact all the threads.

Then it was on to filling in my @#$% ups from the drill press.



After that I realized it was time to begin finishing the rifle
So the first thing i did was bondo the grip. When mixing bondo you only need the smallest bit of hardening cream... it takes getting used to. Since i have not used bondo since i was about 14 i tried it on a test board and it applied well, so it was on to the rifle.



Also when mixing bondo after you apply it to the area you are working on you will usually have some left over. I lightly run my fingers over the stock and feel for depressions. when i fingd them i wipe some extra bondo in them. Its difficult to find all the low spots until you get some paint on it then they all show through. The more you can deal with now the better. Sanding primer coats will only remove the smallest blemishes.

After the bondo sets its time to sand it down.



Funny how many colors the stock is now...



The bondo sets in about 15 minutes so this process doesn't take too long.

After I was satisfied it was pretty smooth all over the rifle (an hour using 280 grit sand paper), its time to shoot a coat of primer. this primer coat will reveal many more blemishes. Once the stock is all one color it is much easier to see.

I taped the holes for the cheek piece bolts.



Cut off excess tape...



Next i installed a hook in the butt on a spot that will be covered, under the mounting plate for the butt pad. I was sure to drill a pilot hole, I don't need any more cracks.





Now coat it with primer.



After the primer is dry a light sanding with 280 grit revealed many more blemishes. Bondo them.



Here is a photo of the hammered finish on the barrel. After looking at it more i think i may redo the paint on it. One almost has to count the passes of spray to get it even enough.



Now i am sanding and coating the stock in primer repeatedly to get her straight, more on that later.
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  #26  
Old 05-14-2012, 09:24 PM
mads_breum

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Thanks for posting this how-to. It looks like it is coming out great. I am looking forward to seeing the finished rifle
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  #27  
Old 05-15-2012, 10:03 PM
beercansnipe

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Question

Well there is 2 coats of red on it.... I'm going to do a second color on top for some lettering then a clear coat.

My question is when to wet sand? The red coat is lightly orange peeled. Will that orange peel be hidden by wet sanding the clear coat? Or do I need to sand the color too?


Btw she looks real nice now thats there is some paint on her. I'll post pictures soon.
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  #28  
Old 05-17-2012, 05:33 PM
beercansnipe

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The stencil's did not work out.....

I half ruined the paint job i had on it.

I think im going to let it dry sand it a bit and just go with the red paint.\

I really want to get shooting with it and i can always go back and redo the paint job.



pictures soon
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  #29  
Old 05-17-2012, 07:59 PM
beercansnipe

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Done for now....

I have finally decided that i am finished for now. I may make more changes in the future.

The finish looks good, but not as good as i would have liked. Dad made a good point too, this gun isn't getting hung on the wall its going to be shot every week at least. I am sure that I will scratch the stock the first time out

I guess i have a lot to learn about painting.


So heres the final pics unless anyone wants to see more from the build

[IMG]http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/Kurt_Bendlin/104_0690.jpg[/IMG
















There she is, I wanted to stencil cm-2 on the butt and vostok on the sides but I have become impatient with this project.

I WANNA SHOOT IT.

I hope y'all enjoyed watching this project. I know im a rookie but I'm happy overall with the outcome. Let me know what y'all think


Thanks,
Kurt
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  #30  
Old 05-17-2012, 11:07 PM
Idiotfool

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Quote:
Originally Posted by beercansnipe View Post
I have finally decided that i am finished for now. I may make more changes in the future.

The finish looks good, but not as good as i would have liked. Dad made a good point too, this gun isn't getting hung on the wall its going to be shot every week at least. I am sure that I will scratch the stock the first time out

I guess i have a lot to learn about painting.


So heres the final pics unless anyone wants to see more from the build


















There she is, I wanted to stencil cm-2 on the butt and vostok on the sides but I have become impatient with this project.

I WANNA SHOOT IT.

I hope y'all enjoyed watching this project. I know im a rookie but I'm happy overall with the outcome. Let me know what y'all think


Thanks,
Kurt
Looks pretty impressive, to me! Now, I'd like to see what groups you can get with the flat forestock. That, and your next build, which I'm sure will be even more awesome.
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