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  #1  
Old 04-20-2012, 02:45 AM
beercansnipe

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cm-2 build



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Well i decided to heavily modify my cm-2. I'm going to turn it into a heavy bench rest gun. I'm going to widen and reshape the front end of stock. I would like to make an adjustable cheek piece. I like the design of the 2013 Anschutz bench Here's a photo.





The semi-pistol grip does not fit my hand well. I think i wold like to remove a good amount of wood, and make a personalized grip out of 3m void filling compound. Its really strong stuff. I have never attempted any rifle project quite this big on a gun. I hope it turns out well.

Here are some pictures of the stock before I glued it back together.



The crack was completely through the stock. The only thing holding it together was a machine screw someone put through the grip in the past.

[IMG]http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/Kurt_Bendlin/104_0523.jpg[/IMG

It took quite a lot of effort to get that screw out. I ended up having to drill a hole next to it and wiggled it out.

Here is a picture of the box for the epoxy I used to glue the stock.



The epoxy worked very well, it takes 48 hours to fully cure and has a nice work time too. It takes about 90 minutes before it tacks. I chose this epoxy for its strength, flexibility, and work time.

Here is a picture of the rifle while it was clamped. I used a stack of washers inside of the action inlet to prevent denting the wood. There are many holes to be filled still.



Straight lines did not exist on this stock. The closest thing to straight was the top of the barrel channel. I used this as a reference to start trying to get the front end of the stock somewhat square. My father "bobleeswagger" has been an immense help in working on this project. We got out his shopsmith that had not run in over 20 years and used it to do the work on the front end. I was impressed at how well the machine still worked. We found it easiest to use a sander to remove the bulk of the wood instead of the saw. Here are more photos.





It took a little engineering to get the stock to feed through the sander correctly. We tacked a straight board on the side of the stock to help line things up.





Here is the stock looking much more square. Now she is ready for me to glue on more boards.



I was in the garage later on that night working on the stock and our leaky air compressor came on. the noise from the compressor scared a baby opossum out from underneath the work bench!!! I told my girlfriend who is crazy about animals there was an opossum in the garage and she decided to catch it (against my advice, those things are mean when they wanna be...). But we did get a good picture before we let him go outside.




I have a lot more to do on the gun. I'll post more later. Please feel free to give suggestions. I saw the ural that Ret built in the sticky index. i was wondering how that soft bedding came out. Did it improve accuracy?

Later, Kurt

Last edited by beercansnipe; 04-20-2012 at 02:48 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-20-2012, 03:31 AM
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2216 is some good stuff. We use it as a bonding agent in the aerospace industry.
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:10 AM
RET
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beercansnipe View Post
I have a lot more to do on the gun. I'll post more later. Please feel free to give suggestions. I saw the ural that Ret built in the sticky index. i was wondering how that soft bedding came out. Did it improve accuracy?
ret here.....I love an intrepid project. You'll have a rifle that fits you better, which means you'll shoot better. >>> The soft bedding will almost almost always work better. I found an improvement across all brands of ammo. Here is the source of my experiment. The problem is many ( or most) gun guys do not vary from traditional form often. I used to be like that myself, when I did gs work professionally.

Chances of recracking are high because the reasons for cracking have not gone away, you addressed result. It may last or may not. You might want to either drill and epoxy a single screw from about where rear action screw is located and extending out the grip cap or same with a wooden dowel and several more at dowel pins various angles, crossing through the sides. ( forming an "X") I used method #2 for my ural project.




Begin drilling from receiver side to the grip cap side.


It's your rifle...so decide and move forward. I assume your purpose is shooting off a bench?


Type of wood you attached to sides?

ret

Last edited by RET; 04-20-2012 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 04-20-2012, 12:43 PM
beercansnipe

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thx

Thanks for the advice. I think i will drill the grip and install a screw.

Yes my intentions for the gun are heavy bench gun. Dad has his ural that is staying mostly the way it is. If I choose to try other matches (3 position) I would use his. My gun is strictly going to be a bench gun.

For that reason i was considering adding weight to the stock. I am a bit twitchy and i think more weight would help.
My idea was to use a spade bit and drill a large hole into the foreand and into the buttstock, then add lead shot and epoxy to fill the holes. I was hoping to add approximately 3-5 lbs to the gun.

The wood i bought for gluing to the stock is poplar. I knew i needed hardwood. and chose the cheapest straightest board i could find at home depot (i dont have a planer). my wood working knowledge is quite limited. The gun is going to get a full paint job when its so i figured ugly poplar would be ok. Thoughts?

i have not glued it yet in case im making a mistake.
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Old 04-20-2012, 02:41 PM
RET
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Poplar will work ok.

Regarding the single screw....have you thought about the actual amount of remaining material for a screw to hang on to between the inletted portion of receiver and the crack?


You do not actually know where the crack is, only where it shows. How do you think you'll address this?


ret
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:10 PM
beercansnipe

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I had the stock apart

Once I had removed the original screw I was able to see the entire crack as the stock was in two pieces. It has approximately 1 inch of wood between the bottom of the inlet and where the hole will meet the crack.

I have a good amount of experience with fiberglass. I believe I am going to glass over the entire area. I think the grip will be very strong after that.

What about the poplar? Think it will do?
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Old 04-20-2012, 04:41 PM
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Might work......

You plan on leaving grip area full diameter?

Poplar should work ok.

ret
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:07 PM
beercansnipe

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I think I will reduce the size

I'm going to reduce the grip by a good amount, then glass, then use epoxy void filling compound for custom fit grip.
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:50 AM
RET
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Sounds like a plan to me.

Looking forward to seeing the progress and learning a few tricks.

ret
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Old 04-22-2012, 05:59 PM
beercansnipe

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more work

Dent filling. using epoxy void filling compound.









Apparently this stuff is called "smurf" I wonder why...





Gluing boards.....



Shaping



Here's where I'm at now.



More voids to fill... i should have thought it out more. I keep changing my mind.



The shape is not final, it needs filing. though it is close.

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Old 04-30-2012, 01:13 PM
beercansnipe

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continued

Adding weight to the forend (im still going to add wieght to the rear). These are stacks of washers totaling about 1 pound. I drilled holes with a spade. I Tried to get the washers close to flush to make things easier in finishing.



Here is the bottom the next day after being filled in.



Fitting grip with action in so i know where my trigger is.



I tried the fit over and over with the action still in the stock (and with the butt pad). I'm removing extra material too... I still have to add fiberglass and void compound. I also think i have decided to go with Rhino-liner on the hand grip. and i will also be painting the barrel with a hammered finish. the rest will be red with some extra details...




This crack stops at the knot. i will remove more material and fiberglass over it.



Replaced screw and epoxied it in.



Just below flush with action inlet.



Grip came out too short. I'm adding a block of wood on the bottom



I used epoxy and a couple small nails... I used a punch to drive them about an eighth of an inch below the surface of the wood to make sure they would not get in the way later.



I will post more soon, Thanks
Snipe
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:03 PM
beercansnipe

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scroll saw

I had a scroll saw in the past. I recently sold it. I wish i had not now.

I want an adjustable cheek piece. My best idea yet is to make a wood jig to get the cut straight using a jigsaw. One piece of wood on each side of the butt stock in the shape I like.

Anyone got a better idea?
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Old 05-04-2012, 05:24 AM
beercansnipe

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More work done.

I have spent a lot of time working on this rifle since my last posting. I have also found out that this project takes more planning than I expected. I figured it would only take me a week or so., but it seems it will take quite a bit more time.

Here are some more photos...

After gluing the grip extension on I rasped the area until I got a shape I liked.





I have never tried using fiberglass on wood. It cane out well though I believe. I had access to some really good resins, but they had to be cured at a minimum of 180 degrees. Needles to say that wasnt' going to work. So I ended up with good ol' boat resin. The resin is very strong but brittle. Using multiple layers of fine weave glass should provide the best strength and be the easiest to apply.

If you want it to come out decent there is a process... First you sand the area to be repaired to remove the high spots and smooth things out a bit. Do not polish the area just make it less bumpy, It will help keep bubbles away. Then set up your work area and put on gloves and have spares nearby unless you want resin EVERYWHERE.

I like to mix the resin with a little less activator tan recommended. This improves the resins workable time. be sure you get enough in it though or else the resin may never harden. I have never had problems when using 3/4 the reccomended ammount. This will also prevent it from getting too hot. Careful with this stuff, I have personally seen resin smoking it was so hot from using too much activator.


After mixing your resin apply a liberal coat of resin to the stock, then saturate the cloth in resin complete. when completely saturated the glass will become nearly transparent (this can take a minute or so). Once full wet apply the glass in the middle of a piece first, then work towards the edges as to remove bubbles. After I applied the first coat I allowed it to cure (6 hours) then i sanded down the high spots. Thick areas of resin and glass build up quickly when layering fiberglass. Appy second coat (if desired) in the same manner as first coat.

The resin


Here are my patches cut to fit.


This is the good stuff (thanks dad). Those frayed edges lay down thinner.


First coat



Sanding


Second coat


Hope that helps anyone interested in fiberglass repairs

OK now it was a bit more light shaping and sanding. Followed by the epoxy hand grip. This stuff is realy cool. Its 2 part similar to JB weld but it has microballoons in it also. They are little tiny glass spheres that decrease weight and add rigidity. It mixes like play dough and applies like it too.





Lots of extra epoxy. Its easy to take off but it takes 24 hours to ad more and let it cure.


sanded some




Dad showed me how to use a buffing wheel today, i had never used one. really easy to use and the stuff came out looking a lot shinier.



I was fiddling in the garage looking through some hardware and found these....


They looked to be perfect to use on the adjustable stock. So i started planning how to get this to work.

This was a trick.

If the vertical shafts that the cheekpiece rides on are not perfectly parallel they will bind and not work properly. So I had to figure out how to get them parallel. The way I did it was to drill the holes before I cut the cheekpiece off. While it was secured in my gun vise I then drilled the holes. then I cut the cheekpice off with a jig I made from angle iron I had laying around. I just screwed it to the stock (with pilot holes to prevent cracking). The remaining holes are easy to fill.

Now that its cut i will glue in the bushings first. then i will drop in the bolts (heads cut off) and glue them in from the top using tape to center the bolts in the now oversied holes in the cheekpiece. Whew that took me a long time to come up with, seems simple now.

pics




heres the jig in action


And here it is cut off. it came out pretty darn good. this picture does it no justice. i did not expect to get a cut that straight with a jigsaw.

oops too many ... next post sorry

Now i must sleep, this posting stuff takes forever. i juust got done with a long night of unsuccsessful fishing too, i'm beat.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:37 AM
noyp54

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Talking Cm-2 stock

Been folowing your thead, nothing beats doing the way you like it and doing it yourself. Am excited how the looks/shape will it end up. Great job! BTW are you going to paint the stock? Don' stop now, I learn some ideas/techs from this. Tnx Noyp.
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:46 AM
beercansnipe

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thx

i appreciate the kind word. and yes i will be painting the stock.
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