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  #1  
Old 10-02-2010, 09:34 AM
scott_n06

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Building a trap-back angle



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Im going to try and build a pellet/bb/maybe22lr trap. I have some stainless steel plates that have been given to me so I was going to use them as my back plate with some 2x6's behind that. I was just curious what kind of angle I should put on the back plate.

Thanks,

Scott
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  #2  
Old 10-02-2010, 10:28 AM
rampart

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I think...

...45 degrees should do it...The ones I've seen seem to have that, just eyeballing it...
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  #3  
Old 10-02-2010, 03:08 PM
scott_n06

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Ok thanks thats what I was thinking.
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  #4  
Old 12-04-2010, 06:45 PM
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I just finished building a trap. The angle I used was 45*. I used 16 guage steel plate from Home Depot and 1/2 inch plywood. the steel plates were 6"x18" and I got 4 of them, so the starting point for my trap was to fasten these plates to a piece of plywood 18"x24". I just finished it this afternoon and it is remarkably quiet and after about 60 shots @ 50 ft from my tuned BAM 26 with CPL's I checked it and there isn't even a hint of a dent.
I made this thing so big because I wanted to use the NRA 50 ft A-32 target that we use in our Light Rifle matches at my local gun club. This was really overkill but I wanted to make it a little bigger than I needed. On the inside bottom I put some really thick corrugated cardboard. Right now I'm just clipping my target to a piece of cardboard and leaning it against the front of the trap. I haven't figured out how I want to hang the targets on it yet. Any suggestions? This will work fine in my basement but if I take it outdoors the wind will knock the target and cardboard over.
At 45* the opening of the trap is about 13 inches high and just over 23 inches wide. It weighs a ton partly because I used 2 layers of 1/2" plywood for the back board. I did that because I used #10 1inch panhead sheet metal screws and it was faster to use two boards than it was to drive to Home Depot for shorter screws.



Last edited by Charlotte; 12-04-2010 at 07:20 PM. Reason: added photos
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:57 PM
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Mine

A good friend built this one for me as a gift so we could safely shoot inside a building at 30 yards. Very heavy as it is completely constructed of 1/4" steel plate so it handles up to HV .22 LR with no problems. We found that after striking the 45 degree angled back plate, the round seem almost skim along the back plate, hitting the sand in the very back of the pit.
After a couple hundred rounds "22 Rimfire" the sand along the very back edge has all been push forward so the lead is then hitting the metal plating on the bottom.


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Old 12-12-2010, 12:44 AM
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Drill a hole in the center of the sides and add a spinning target. All of lead goes straight down.
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:58 AM
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I've been using my trap every day and then last night I read Craig's post and decided to check mine for pellets going all the way back into the trap and have to agree with him that 45 degrees is too steep. I'll cut new sides for my trap this week. I'm thinking 55 degrees should be about right to stop the skimming, but I'll give the new angle a try and repost.
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Old 12-13-2010, 08:58 AM
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I thought the reason for the back to be at an angle was to achieve "skimming"??
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:36 AM
slayer6
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45 degrees

I have used about 45 degrees for several traps. I used two 1/4 inch steel plates and shot 38"s into it with no problem. I use plywood boxes and modeling clay now. Real quite and does not matter how you make the box. About 5 inches of clay stops all pellet guns including the Condor .22 at 1025 ft per second. I use a clip board for holding tagets when they get too shot up its a buck for another one. lol
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slayer6 View Post
I have used about 45 degrees for several traps. I used two 1/4 inch steel plates and shot 38"s into it with no problem. I use plywood boxes and modeling clay now. Real quite and does not matter how you make the box. About 5 inches of clay stops all pellet guns including the Condor .22 at 1025 ft per second. I use a clip board for holding tagets when they get too shot up its a buck for another one. lol
Duct seal putty works much better than modeling clay; an inch or two of duct seal stops pellets very effectively. The putty generally comes in one pound packages and you can just pull off the wrapper and stick the putty to the back of your plywood box. I built my box with an opening just over 11 inches high so I use masking tape to stick up targets printed on 8.5 X 11 inch paper.
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:46 PM
JAT
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Angle?? I have an opinion and a hint to prevent

the occasional back splatter when the base gets overly full.

Because we are using soft lead, there will be "skimming". Why? Because lead deforms. The reason a basketball does not exit the back board at the exact same angle is because it deforms SLIGHTLY. It may come on at 45 but it will exit at less. Lead smooshes, flattens and will skid. Can't prevent it.

How to prevent splash back when the trap gets a mite full? I've thunk about this while mentally designing my back yard trap of a sheet of 3/8" steel. What I think would be a good safeguard would be to put a barrier, wood in my case, say a RR tie or 4x4 treated pieces stacked say 12-16" abt 2 feet in front of the base of the angled piece. This way, should anything try and carom back toward the shooter, a substantial barrier is in place. Remember if the angle is 45, then the height has to be less than the distance from the base to the near edge because being an isoscelese triangle (2 sides equal) if you come out 16" from the base the top has to be further away otherwise it is touching. I'd guestimate 18" for a 12" high blocker. Any lead would have to come back at an angle very close to entry angle. Haven't trigged it out but I'm shooting BE loads so would not expect anything bad to happen if I ever get this built.

So, for the indoor thing? I'd prolly slip a 2x2 or 2x4 across the front and leave a couple of inches for the sliders to slide on by........just the musings of a "not as young as I used to be toolmaker".

Last edited by JAT; 12-15-2010 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 12-15-2010, 07:27 PM
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I've been using an old Burg alarm panel as a pellet trap. The panel lies on its back with the door held up at nearly 70 degrees to prevent the skimming, make the pellet dump its energy at impact, and fall into an old shirt at the bottom. Been thinking of using Duct Seal on the backside as a sound damper (kill the thwack! sound). As folks upgrade their alarm panels, the old ones go in the trash. You get a window a bit over a foot square to aim at, and mine isn't even dented.
Take care,
warren
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  #13  
Old 12-16-2010, 01:06 AM
snipester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAT View Post
the occasional back splatter when the base gets overly full.

Because we are using soft lead, there will be "skimming". Why? Because lead deforms. The reason a basketball does not exit the back board at the exact same angle is because it deforms SLIGHTLY. It may come on at 45 but it will exit at less. Lead smooshes, flattens and will skid. Can't prevent it.

How to prevent splash back when the trap gets a mite full? I've thunk about this while mentally designing my back yard trap of a sheet of 3/8" steel. What I think would be a good safeguard would be to put a barrier, wood in my case, say a RR tie or 4x4 treated pieces stacked say 12-16" abt 2 feet in front of the base of the angled piece. This way, should anything try and carom back toward the shooter, a substantial barrier is in place. Remember if the angle is 45, then the height has to be less than the distance from the base to the near edge because being an isoscelese triangle (2 sides equal) if you come out 16" from the base the top has to be further away otherwise it is touching. I'd guestimate 18" for a 12" high blocker. Any lead would have to come back at an angle very close to entry angle. Haven't trigged it out but I'm shooting BE loads so would not expect anything bad to happen if I ever get this built.

So, for the indoor thing? I'd prolly slip a 2x2 or 2x4 across the front and leave a couple of inches for the sliders to slide on by........just the musings of a "not as young as I used to be toolmaker".
Your theory works. If your shooting lower fps ,but you'll need some firmer faceboard, to keep fragments from coming back. I am using a plate of hardened aluminum half inch thick in my target area, and 1/16 stainless across 38" of backstop at 30yards.With 1/4" foam poster board front. All of my shooting is 800 fps and up. most pellets turn to dust at 950 fps .against a hardened surface.

Last edited by snipester; 12-16-2010 at 01:22 AM.
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  #14  
Old 12-16-2010, 07:57 AM
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Looking for a stand

I bought a "Quiet" trap on EBay for my pistol. It's approx 10"W X 13"H x 7" D.

I'm planning to use it in my Condo at 11 yds. Any ideas on what kind of platform might be available that would raise it 48" or a bit more off the floor? I'm not that handy, but in a pinch I guess I can make one out of plywood.
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Old 12-16-2010, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryg22 View Post
I bought a "Quiet" trap on EBay for my pistol. It's approx 10"W X 13"H x 7" D.

I'm planning to use it in my Condo at 11 yds. Any ideas on what kind of platform might be available that would raise it 48" or a bit more off the floor? I'm not that handy, but in a pinch I guess I can make one out of plywood.
Here was my solution ... an old CD tower.
You are very correct about getting your trap perpendicular to the shooter.
This is essential to stop most "skimming" as if you put the trap at a downward or upward angle from the shooter and not perpendicular, you are asking for plenty of splatter and bounce outs.

I only have 6 meters on my indoor spot so I just shoot airguns with my trap.



I use a Do-All bullet box.



Straight Shootin'
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