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  #46  
Old 03-16-2010, 07:18 AM
woodstock63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris597 View Post
Question for you, This method dries fast, maybe too fast, it is super "flat" finish, no sheen. Do you let it cure for a few days and then polish it or do you do a final coat or 2 without the armour all?
Interesting questions because they also relate to Don's not drying fast enough.

Remember, you can do sections at a time especially the first coats. Not to worry about overlapping as each coat drys, unless you apply it too heavy and let it set ; when your first layer is slick/dry,do the adjacent section.The first few initial coats will have a very flat dry sheen until you build up some layers.

The photos of my guns have many layers. If you wish a gloss finish then yes, your last coats can be just a couple of thin rubbed Tru-Oil only. I've not done that because even my last coats are the "elixir" mix and it's too much gloss for me. I knock the gloss down per instructions in recipe.

I don't quit with the "elixir" until all pores and the smallest pinholes are filled. Keep in mind that Tru-Oil alone generally has a thicker build-up and takes a fair amount of time to dry, especially if the humidity is high and requires sanding between layers.

The real beauty of the "elixir: fast drying time so you stay right with it; a hand-rubbed look without sanding off runs, drips and errors; less airborne debris having time to stick to it; less time per coat.

How much time/days do you spend with maybe 4-5 coats of Tru-Oil only? 4-7?
With the "elixir" I can put on at least 2 dozen in a day/evening on the porch or in front of whatever Sports is on.


I doubt if I've ever put on less than at least two to three dozen coats, maybe more. Once you start to get a few layers on and some gloss built up, you can really go fast because it isn't soaking in as much anymore.

The first 1/2 dozen coats usually leave a lot to be desired but the last couple dozen make it really glow!

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  #47  
Old 03-16-2010, 03:37 PM
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i wonder if the minwax antique oil finish would have same results as the tru oil when used with armor all?
also, i have a old winchester someone drilled for a sling and i'd like to fill the holes, what would work best?

Last edited by b.ritter; 03-16-2010 at 03:41 PM.
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  #48  
Old 03-16-2010, 04:49 PM
woodstock63
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Originally Posted by b.ritter View Post
i wonder if the minwax antique oil finish would have same results as the tru oil when used with armor all?
also, i have a old winchester someone drilled for a sling and i'd like to fill the holes, what would work best?
Interesting regarding Minwax. Never tried it. Maybe you could do it on a test piece for us. There was another member earlier on on this post who researched the chemical make-up of Armor-All and Tru-Oil for compatibility

Maybe someone else knows for sure. I don't know of a filler that would take the finish. Sometimes I've plugged the hole with a tough hardening filler and then painted the grain to match adjacent areas.

Or you could drive in a tapered walnut plug, sand flush and stain. If upper portion is forced and glue is on bottom the stain or elixir should take. Watch your grain direstion.

Another way would be to inlay a "button" of a contrasting material (I've used solid color black plastic engraving stock material, maple, Ebony. etc. (See button sketch below)

\___/ plug angle

( plug should be a bit higher;glue, sand down to stock )
\___/ hole angle

Hope this gives you some ideas.

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  #49  
Old 03-17-2010, 02:20 AM
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I will try to post some photo's of the 2 walnut stock sets I'm working on soon. Both are nearly done and the results are fantastic! This allows you do do one faster and better. No runs ever, fast turn around time so you can steel wool quickly and then turn right back around and put on another coat.
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  #50  
Old 03-17-2010, 04:36 AM
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That finish looks fantastic!! I've got one more stock to finish for our American Legion Color Guard (all rifles have to be the same "matching" of course, but I'm going to try your method on my next rifle after the legion one is done.

Isn't it funny how one stumbles into these great ideas.
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  #51  
Old 03-17-2010, 05:24 AM
woodstock63
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Originally Posted by jcwit View Post
That finish looks fantastic!! I've got one more stock to finish for our American Legion Color Guard (all rifles have to be the same "matching" of course, but I'm going to try your method on my next rifle after the legion one is done.

Isn't it funny how one stumbles into these great ideas.
Yes it is; I "stumbled" on it by a happy accident 4 years ago and I'll be darned if I could find anything on the internet related to this mix method. It was maybe two years ago when I was building a knife and browsing the internet that someone mentioned it almost nonchalantly so I knew then it was a reality. To this day you still can't find much on the internet though. I think I've tried every "search word" I could think of.

I understand that some guitar makers also "discovered the "elixir".

There are a whole bunch of stock refinishers on RFC that do incredible work and I'm just one passing on a technique that has served me well.

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  #52  
Old 03-17-2010, 05:28 AM
woodstock63
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Originally Posted by Chris597 View Post
I will try to post some photo's of the 2 walnut stock sets I'm working on soon. Both are nearly done and the results are fantastic! This allows you do do one faster and better. No runs ever, fast turn around time so you can steel wool quickly and then turn right back around and put on another coat.
Congratulations Chris on having the faith to stick with it. You definetely have developed the rhythm for the process.

It sounds like you are quite pleased, Wonderful!

Looking forward to the photos.

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  #53  
Old 03-17-2010, 01:09 PM
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http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/IMGP0554.jpg

Latest update on the 552 stock, it's close to being finished. Have to wait on some aluminum paint for the receiver. I will do a few more coats in the meantime.
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  #54  
Old 03-17-2010, 01:14 PM
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http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/IMGP0555.jpg

Winchester 290, boy it has some nice wood on it, woods better than the gun! I still have some more work on this stock, coming along.
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  #55  
Old 03-17-2010, 01:57 PM
woodstock63
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Originally Posted by Chris597 View Post
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/IMGP0555.jpg

Winchester 290, boy it has some nice wood on it, woods better than the gun! I still have some more work on this stock, coming along.
Yes, very nice piece of Walnut, pretty figuring and I like the rich color..

How many coats so far and are the pores starting to fill up nicely?

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  #56  
Old 03-17-2010, 04:50 PM
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Probably 8 coats, Pores are just now filling over. I will get some more on it tonight. I have a 1906 Winchester I will order a deluxe piece of walnut for and will do it next. I plan on buying a real deluxe stock for this project.
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  #57  
Old 03-20-2010, 09:05 PM
woodstock63
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Originally Posted by Chris597 View Post
Probably 8 coats, Pores are just now filling over. I will get some more on it tonight. I have a 1906 Winchester I will order a deluxe piece of walnut for and will do it next. I plan on buying a real deluxe stock for this project.
I'd sure like to take a peek at that 1906 Win Walnut as you go.
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  #58  
Old 03-20-2010, 09:09 PM
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I was planning on ordering an extra fancy walnut stock from Wenig but there are 2 extra fancy stocks on ebay right now. Gorgeous wood! I hope I win one!

Chris
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  #59  
Old 03-20-2010, 09:30 PM
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woodstock63 -- thanks for the lessons -- I've got a stock for a Sako Quad that I think this might be the finish to try. Very nice work on those stocks!
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  #60  
Old 03-21-2010, 06:52 AM
woodstock63
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Originally Posted by timberbeast63 View Post
woodstock63 -- thanks for the lessons -- I've got a stock for a Sako Quad that I think this might be the finish to try. Very nice work on those stocks!
Thanks and you're welcome; once you've tried this I'm sure it'll be part of your finishing process for years to come.

Just remember that there has to be a light film of Armor-All on, then Tru-Oil, then hand rub it in together until it feels dry and slick to your hand.

The first few coats will have a dull sheen and as you build them up you can get it as glossy as you want. This is because the first coats of Armor-All will tend to soak in.

I think the next one I do might have a rubbed coat of just Tru-Oil as the first base coat; let it dry for a few days and then go to the mix.

If anyone has any doubts, always try a few square inches worth on any type of prepared wood just to get the feel.

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