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  #16  
Old 03-14-2010, 01:31 AM
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I was in the middle of stripping and sanding a Remington 552 DBl this afternoon when I found this post somehow. I had just put on one coat of Tru Oil and was letting it dry overnight when I found it. I sanded the first coat down to wood again (nearly) and went with your method while watching TV. I was done start to finish before the movie was over. 6 - 8 coats maybe. I figured out the method, You have a thick movable mass of nearly dry finish and you just keep massaging it into the woodgrain until it's level, truly "hand rubbed". I steel wooled it down to satin and rubbed it down with a rag for a while. I may do more on it tomorrow after it dries over night but it looks like it may be done! I will try to post a photo tomorrow. The grain is unbelivable! Looks like a high dollar stock!!!
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  #17  
Old 03-14-2010, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodstock63 View Post
...If you need to darken Beech, I've used Analine Dye which is a powder that you mix with Wood Alcohol and water...[/B]
I've used these dyes on pistol grips with very good results. They will tint Tung oil, polyurethane varnishes, Linseed oil, and I suspect Tru-Oil, or any petroleum base finishing solution. The English Red on nicely figured dark walnut is stunning. These are concentrates, so just add a few drops to a dish of varnish solution until you get the color you want, then test it on a scrap to see how it transfers to the wood. With light woods you may need to add dark wood stain, too [clear, not the pigmented stuff which is cloudy], to darken the Red. I get the color on with the first or second varnish applications, then follow with untinted product for the final rubs for a deep, rich finish.

http://tinyurl.com/ydsc4xp
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  #18  
Old 03-14-2010, 08:01 AM
woodstock63
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tnsnakebite asks:
"Woodstock, what have you found to be the best finish stripper and maybe some tips? Thanks for this post."

Best stripper? Usually the ones they claim are the most toxic/flammable like Zip Strip The newer ones haven't had the "bite" like Zip Strip. Just follow all precautions, do it outside on newspaper, gunk it on heavy and let set as instructed. It'll take up everything except deep oil. I don't don't what will lift out deep oil penetration (anyone?).

As to a Browning type finish, I haven't done this yet but if requested to, I'll go to Brownell's, I understand they have a product, but expensive.


C.C, comments
"Woody old man: Thanks for your efforts. That Winchester is truly amazing! I am trying to work up enough nerve to refinish my 77-22 stock, and you have added to the impetus. Live long, and prosper!"


Do not fear for we are with you.
See other post in here from Chris597


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  #19  
Old 03-14-2010, 11:32 AM
Don Fenton
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woodstock63,
Last week I refinished a laminated stock with Tru-Oil, it's OK but after reading about your finishing method I'd like to lightly sand with 4/0 steel wool or 800 grit and use your method, am I missing anything?
Did I read correctly that ArmorAll over Tru-oil will result in a "duller" finish?

I'm really exited about trying your method.

Don
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  #20  
Old 03-14-2010, 12:05 PM
woodstock63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Fenton View Post
woodstock63,
Last week I refinished a laminated stock with Tru-Oil, it's OK but after reading about your finishing method I'd like to lightly sand with 4/0 steel wool or 800 grit and use your method, am I missing anything?
Did I read correctly that ArmorAll over Tru-oil will result in a "duller" finish?

I'm really exited about trying your method.

Don
Don,

Because you have Tru-Oil on it already, as long as it is dry and there are no rough spots you want to sand out you should be just fine by buffing it down with 0000X steel wool first.

Apply Armor-All with hand & fingers, wipe off excess and then apply small amounts of Tru-Oil over that briskly rubbing in with palm and fingers creating some friction/heat. Because you have a finish on it already, you can easily do a side at a time

After 5 minutes or so you'll feel the dry/slick surface and then you can keep going the same way...,Armor/All-Tru-Oil, etc., etc. until you end up with what you're happy with. The beauty of this method is really not having to sand out thick areas of dried Tru-Oil. It drys so fast that it doesn't have time to collect dust or dog hairs.

I finished two thumbhole stocks last week, complete from sanding to use. They turned out beautifully.

As a footnote, I didn't really mention this in my "recipe" post, but I always use a wood finishers Tack Cloth to pick up any dust/debris before applying each coat.

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  #21  
Old 03-14-2010, 12:08 PM
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Woodstock
Have you tried Easy-Off oven cleaner on the deep oil stains? I know guys who have used it on oily auto parts even after a complete cleaning and it still lifts more grease and oils. Seems like i have heard it used on stocks too.
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  #22  
Old 03-14-2010, 12:11 PM
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Woodworker.com sells the JE Moser's aniline dye in about 40 colors and you can get alcohol, oil or water based in powder from. I love the stuff for mixing with Birchwood Casey Walnut stain (I use the water based dye) and getting fore and buttstocks on lever guns to match, since they frequently don't. It is also the only way to get Maple or Beech to look like dark walnut or mahogany....unless you want a natural colored maple or beech stock. I'll finally get off my butt and sign up for Photocucket and post some dyed maple stock pics.
9 fingers
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  #23  
Old 03-14-2010, 12:20 PM
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This is truly the coolest and wildest idea I have read in mnay years of perusing woodworking !!
I was thinkign "fish eye"...but nooo, you just have to go and set the bar higher!!

Must be similar thing as the CA glue and BLO finisihing method in woodturning... completly different materials that just work prefectly.
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  #24  
Old 03-14-2010, 12:31 PM
Don Fenton
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As a footnote, I didn't really mention this in my "recipe" post, but I always use a wood finishers Tack Cloth to pick up any dust/debris before applying each coat.

[/QUOTE]
woodstock63,
After lightly sanding with 4/0 steel wool, I brush the inletted areas with a old tooth brush, then wrap a small magnet in a clean piece of cotton fabric, wiping down the entire stock including the inletted areas, then wipe it down with a "tack rag". You'll be amazed at the amount of steel wool slivers the magnet will remove.

Thanks for your advice.

Don
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  #25  
Old 03-14-2010, 07:19 PM
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Sorry I have been gone all day. Here is last nights work, put on many coats of Tru Oil and then steel wooled it all in an hour and 15 minutes time. It is more of a satin finish than normal. It is also a darker than normal. I think it seems to bring out more wood highlights than Tru Oil by itself. It was dry enough to handle and reinstall on the gun last night. 90 minutes turn around time! Like I said before 6-8 coats.

I will touch up with Steel wool tonight and either put on a final coat or just a coat of wax maybe. The wood has a "polarized look" btw, The dark wood grain spots shown in this photo are not visable from a straight on angle, they shift patterns as to how the light hits it. Kind of like pearl paint on a car?

Yes there is one low spot I didn't get raised in the wood right in the middle of the stock. I will try to fill that in some more. It's tiny but shows up in the photo.

Last edited by Chris597; 03-14-2010 at 07:24 PM.
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  #26  
Old 03-14-2010, 07:26 PM
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Do you have any before and after pictures?
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  #27  
Old 03-14-2010, 08:20 PM
woodstock63
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Chris,

Good job. I like the color and grain.

Step back and take a look at it in a couple of days and if you want to gloss it up more, no big deal, just keep adding coats.

A duller sheen is generally indicative of the wood still taking in the "mix" thru open grain.

Additionally coats (easy enough now, right?) will continue to add gloss. It's nothing for me to put on two or three dozen coats if the wood demands it. My 72A probably had that many layers.The more coats, the easier each additional coat is. The last coat is then softly buffed with 0000X stl. wool to desired matte finish.

I never did mention checkering which is an area I like to avoid rubbing for obvious reasons. 1.) you end up forcing the mix into the checkering filling it up. and 2.) I don't want to reduce the crispness of the checkering by burnishing.

I will typically spray a small amount of Armor-All into the checkering, worked in gently with a toothbrush and use a turkish towel to blot up the excess, brush a small amount of Tru-Oil over it and take a very soft brush (like a shoe brush, and buff it rather briskly. Then hand rub the excess that will fall outside the checkering.

I haven't had any weathering problems because you're adding this step for each layer.

It sounds like you're pleased with this method of finishing. Nice job.

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  #28  
Old 03-14-2010, 09:53 PM
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Woodstock I'd like to request some pics of a laminate stock that you have done with this method. I will defanatly be keeping this method in mind for future refinishing projects. They look great.
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  #29  
Old 03-14-2010, 09:58 PM
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I have a Blue/silver laminate I'm working on next week, I will use this on it. It has 1 coat on it now so I will sand it down good before I go any farther. I will post a photo of it when it's done also.
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  #30  
Old 03-14-2010, 10:07 PM
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I have used Tal-Strip from Autozone on my 60 and it took the finish of in one coat. It is some nasty stuff to spray on so use a respirator and long sleeves. I cleaned off the old finish with a plastic putty knife.
Before:

After a filler coat of shellac sanded to 800 and a couple coats of true oil.

I plan on adding several coats of the "elixer" this week to smooth out the finish.

Mals
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