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  #16  
Old 03-09-2010, 07:04 PM
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Boy I was thinking of replacing the whole trigger with the rifle basix set up.
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  #17  
Old 03-10-2010, 09:23 AM
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I blushed a little, you guys are great.
I posted the install once and asked for it to become a sticky and I got shot down

well done
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  #18  
Old 03-10-2010, 10:23 AM
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I installed the Yodave kit on my CZ452 Varmint in 17HM2 just a few weekends ago and would add these observations:

Removing the front pin – I carefully filed off the peened end of the front trigger pin with a jeweler’s file and then just knocked it out with pin punch. The front trigger pin could then be easily inserted and removed while I tested the effects on creep of each of the 4 tube shims. Once I settled on the tube shim for me (one up from the thinnest), I replaced the original front trigger pin with the roll pin that Dave supplies in the kit. The roll pin is a press fit and will not fall out. If you try to reuse the original front pin, it should be re-peened to keep it in place.

On Using the original spring – I tried the original spring without the adjusting nut and washer. Trigger pull dropped exactly 1 lb. -- from 4 lbs. 6 oz. to 3 lbs 6 oz. However, note from the picture that the spring is not seated flush with the bottom of the rod on which it compresses/decompresses. The coils of the spring are hung up on the threads of the rod on which the nut turns. Eventually, the spring may creep its way down to the base of the rod, and in doing so, the trigger pull weight is going to lighten. Rather than reuse the original spring, I used the second heaviest spring that Dave provides, together with the original nut and the washer. This produced a pull weight of 2 lbs. 4 oz. By turning the adjusting nut down a Ό turn, a pull weight of 2 lbs. (my objective) was achieved.

Dress the ends of the spring you use – unlike the original CZ spring, the springs that Dave supplies are just cut to a prescribed length. The ends of the spring should be dressed, or flattened so that more of the spring end contacts the seat in the receiver and the nut/washer assembly. One of the easiest ways to do this is to use a grinding wheel on a Dremel tool. Insert the grinding wheel, turn on the Dremel, set to the lowest speed, and lightly press the end of the spring against the top of the rotating grinding wheel. Repeat this for the other end of the spring until you have achieved the desired effect.

Use Loctite on the threads of the spring rod – the factory did not use any thread locking compound on the threads of the rod of my rifle. The factory also uses a stiffer spring so the nut is not likely to move. In the interest of thoroughness, I used a drop of low strength Locktite on the threads to keep the adjusting nut where I want it to give me a 2 lb. pull.

Torque up the action screw – on the 452 Varmint, there are 3 slotted screws that pass through the trigger guard. The front and rear screws are short wood screws and the center screw is a machine screw that holds the action to the stock. When removing the machine screw, I set my torque wrench (FAT wrench from Midway) on 10 inch lbs. The torque wrench just clicked. I then set the wrench for 15 inch lbs. and got the same result. I next set it to 20 inch lbs. and the screw backed out. That told me that it was torqued in at 16, 17, 18, 19 or 20 inch lbs. When reassembling the action to the stock, I used the median value – 18 inch lbs. – to tighten the action screw.

Take the opportunity to replace the action screws – I purchased a Torx head screw set from Rimfire Technologies for around $24. A Torx head screw is easier to torque up than a slotted screw and looks better too.

While the action is out of the stock – The Varmint is free-floated. However, when testing this with a piece of paper pulled between the stock barrel channel and the barrel, the paper would bind in several places. While the action was out of the stock, I lightly sanded the barrel channel with extra fine sandpaper, taking care not to round edges or disturb the even gap between stock edge and barrel. I then applied 2 coats of Tung oil to the barrel channel. Now the gun passes the paper test with flying colors. If your CZ is like mine, take the opportunity to address this issue while you have it apart.

Cheers
John
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  #19  
Old 03-10-2010, 01:37 PM
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Some excellent points exring. However, I will disagree with a couple.

The roll pin makes a great replacement for the front trigger pin. However, if you do not file the peened edges of the front pin, it will be nice and snug when you tap it back into place. And, as Steve mentioned, the front pin will come out easily if you use a pointed punch or a smaller punch (1/16") like I did. Minor point, but it does allow users to redo the trigger without an additional roll pin.

In my example, the original spring is threaded onto the base rod very snugly. It is not going to creep up or down. However, I would prefer to leave the nut and washer on the trigger rod. It would allow for much more adjustment later on. I just didn't have the spring that was needed to provide the desired trigger weight, so I compromised.

The nut on the spring rod should not need Loctite if you use the factory washer with it. You will notice that the washer is not round in the middle. It has a flat side that prevents it from spinning around the trigger rod. The washer also has a ridge on its top side that corresponds with a groove on the bottom of the nut. The spring pressure will hold the groove on the nut over the ridge on the washer, which will prevent the nut from turning. No Loctite needed, though I'm sure it won't hurt anything.

Good point on the light sanding of the barrel channel. I too found that the "raised grain" inside the barrel channel interfered a bit with the paper. A very light sanding was all that was needed.
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  #20  
Old 03-10-2010, 03:22 PM
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No doubt there are many ways to accomplish this modification. My observations are offered as an alternative to your approach -- not necessarily as the only way to do the job. As noted in my post, by filing off the peened end of the trigger pin, I was able to easily slip the pin in and out of the trigger as I tried all 4 of the shim tubes before settling on the right one for me. If this kit is about anything, it's about trial and error. For my taste, I prefered to use a new trigger pin.

Your experience reusing the original spring was a bit different than mine. The original spring coils on my spring got hung up on the threads, preventing the spring from seating properly and preventing all of the coils from fully compressing. Glad yours fit better than mine. However, for my style of shooting, the original spring sans nut/washer still produced too heavy a trigger pull.
Cheers
John
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  #21  
Old 03-10-2010, 06:55 PM
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Good post, but I can't help but wonder if all of this was to show of your LUX.....
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  #22  
Old 03-10-2010, 07:41 PM
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Two posts and he's got us all straighened out, lol. Welcome to the Ward Exring. Over two dozen of these installed and I finally find out how to do it right.
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  #23  
Old 03-10-2010, 07:56 PM
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Thumbs up Great job...

...on the tutorial and the pics which are very nice.

B-E-A-Utiful Lux by the way!
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  #24  
Old 03-11-2010, 01:19 PM
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Good post, but I can't help but wonder if all of this was to show of your LUX.....
I say its both, to show a beautiful rifle, and the much sought after pictoral... no complaints from me... I say if you have it, flaunt it
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  #25  
Old 03-12-2010, 03:01 PM
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You the Man!
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  #26  
Old 03-23-2010, 04:52 PM
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Blue and red pins

I am still cofused as to how to utilize the shimming tubes. Does the trigger ride on this to take up the slack? Lou
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  #27  
Old 03-23-2010, 05:00 PM
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Blue and red pins

I am still cofused as to how to utilize the shimming tubes. Does the trigger ride on this to take up the slack? Lou
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  #28  
Old 03-23-2010, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ourway77 View Post
I am still cofused as to how to utilize the shimming tubes. Does the trigger ride on this to take up the slack? Lou
Pretty much yes, the thickness of the tube wall takes up the play or "adjusts" it.

Neil.

PS: should I answer twice
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  #29  
Old 03-24-2010, 07:43 PM
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Question

could anyone tell me the size of the roll pin that dave uses on the front

atvb jonathan
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  #30  
Old 03-24-2010, 08:44 PM
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3/32 by 3/4 inch
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