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  #1  
Old 01-17-2009, 04:45 PM
haertig

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Sight stuck in dovetail, how to remove?



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My original H001T front sight is stuck in it's dovetail. How do I remove it? I've been hammering with a wooden mallet and a wood dowel on the dovetailed part of the sights base trying to push it out. Tried approaching from both sides. Tried squirting a little 3-In-1 Oil in there. Nothing has worked so far. Is there some secret technique to this? My rear sight moves easily in ts dovetail, with only the slightest of taps with a hammer and dowel.
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  #2  
Old 01-17-2009, 05:57 PM
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You need a bigger hammer. No Kidding, you need to just hit it harder. I have removed dovetailed sights on a lot of guns and some are so tight that they will make you believe they are welded in there.

A nylon/brass punch set is a great asset to have on hand. Here is a great one
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...0DRIFT%20PUNCH

If you can, put it in a vise and hit it harder with a heavier hammer. It will break free. There is a proper direction to drive it out.

Some saying like... Right OUT and Left IN.

Last edited by whiskey101; 01-17-2009 at 10:23 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-17-2009, 06:09 PM
JHinman
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I've heard references to a tool that pushes the sights out. It's some $60 or $80 at places like Brownells. If you were to do a lot of this it would be worth getting.

Cheaper once to have a gunsmith do it for you.
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  #4  
Old 01-17-2009, 06:47 PM
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Sight pushers only work on sights that are in a ramp with a flat side onn that ramp.

Just remember this.... You want the sight "OUT", or you want if "LEFT" in. Meaning if you want it out, you must drive it out to the right, as you are looking on top of the barrel with the muzzle away from you. All dovetails are this way. Use a heavier hammer and a brass punch.
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Old 01-17-2009, 07:20 PM
Sheriff160
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A wooded hammer and dowel will absorb the energy you need to move the sight unless it's already loose. If yours is being stubborn, first remove the walnut forearm. That will prevent it from getting buggered up when you give it a good swat. The barrel needs to be lying flat on a suface that firmly supports it. I have several brass punches that I have made and a brass mallet. I have had to really strike some of them pretty hard to get them to move. A brass bolt from your hardware store used as a punch will do in a pinch. Usually a good sharp strike will get things moving. I also hit it with a bit of Kroil (penetrating oil) and it seems to always help.
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Old 01-17-2009, 08:03 PM
Pete44ru
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As posted above, first support the barrel, then use a HEAVY hammer (not a sledge, though) driving a brass drift.

Drive from the LEFT to have the sight LEAVE the dovetail slot, and drive from the RIGHT to TIGHTen the sight in the slot - as viewed from the rear end of the barrel.

BTW - A very good drift is as near as your bedroom door - the brass pin in the door hinge. If you have an old hinge lying around, tap the pin out and use that- painted or not.

.
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Old 01-18-2009, 01:20 AM
haertig

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Thank for all the tips. I'll give it a whack tomorrow (bad pun)!
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:59 AM
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Henry H001

I don't know about yours, but mine is held on with a screw. Remove the hood and see if there is a screw there. The sight and front barrel band is a single (plastic) unit. I replaced both my bands with the metal ones from Henry.
VH

My bad, the T means pump, doesn't it. I don't have one of those...

Last edited by varmit hunter67; 01-18-2009 at 10:04 AM. Reason: PS
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varmit hunter67 View Post
I don't know about yours, but mine is held on with a screw. Remove the hood and see if there is a screw there. The sight and front barrel band is a single (plastic) unit. I replaced both my bands with the metal ones from Henry.
VH
VH67,

Opening post states that the user has a H001T which has a different front sight set up than the H001. The T model has a dovetailed front sight and I wish Henry would go to that set up on the H001 as well.
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  #10  
Old 01-18-2009, 10:13 AM
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Thanks Whiskey 101, I figured out my mistake about the same time you did and just edited my comment. With the barrel band holding the magazine in place, I can see why they kill 2 birds with one stone - so to speak. A savings in cost, obviously. I wonder how much additional cost would actually be involved in milling two dovetails, one for the magazine tube and one for the sight? VH67
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  #11  
Old 01-18-2009, 10:25 AM
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The H001T is the Frontier
The H003T is the pump
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Old 01-18-2009, 10:30 AM
sionaprhys
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Another trick you can use is heat expansion. Chill the sight down and warm up the surrounding metal and the expansion differential will loosen it up. No need to heat anything to the point of ruining the temper. Ice and hot water will do the trick.
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Old 01-19-2009, 09:40 AM
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right to left

Might want to drift it R to L just to loosen it up first, the go back right if that is the direction you need to go. I think it is pretty much industry standard to mill the dove tail tighter on the right side. Or you may need to visit a smitty that has one of those little vices that move the dove tails. VH 67
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  #14  
Old 01-19-2009, 05:16 PM
haertig

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The sight is out!

Finally! Old sight out, new Lyman globe sight in! It turned out to not be so hard to get the old one out once I knew for sure which way it had to go, and used a harder (not wood dowel) punch and a bigger hammer! Once the sight is out it's much easier to see that the dovetail is wider "on the passenger side, while driving the gun". That's how I'll remember it (here in the USA drivers sit on the left, for those of you in other countries). And I just so happened to have a spare door hinge pin laying around, so thanks for the suggestion of using that for the punch.
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  #15  
Old 01-19-2009, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Once the sight is out it's much easier to see that the dovetail is wider "on the passenger side, while driving the gun".
Like the wife...LOL
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