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Old 12-01-2008, 07:24 AM
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Ted's 10/22 Tips & Tricks



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Submitted By: Ted

First thing I did was to check the mating surfaces of the bolt face and the barrel breech. This is best checked by firing numerous rounds and then disassembly of the action to see where the soot and crud is built up. You should have a clean face on the bolt, showing only the outline of the breech. If the bolt is dirty on one side and not the other, the clean side is the high side. This side should be slowly ground down or faced to match the breech. Trial and re-trial here until you get a clean face.

While doing this you also want to get the rim chamber as close to .043 as you can. If not sure about doing this have a gunsmith do it. Main thing is getting things square for consistency.

Next is to harden the surface area of the take down bolt/bedding area. This can be done by adding a metal shim or small piece of metal to spread the load of torqueing down the take down bolt. The stock in this area is soft and each time you take the action out of the stock and re-assemble things change. Another way to harden the area is to poke small holes in this area and then saturate with super glue. Do not use the gel type, get the liquid and allow it to soak in and harden.

Follow this up by opening the barrel channel to float the barrel. Use a round wooden dowel or brass rod just a bit larger than your barrel diameter and wrap with sand paper. Go ahead and sand out the pressure point as it is going to be replaced. Assemble the action and barrel back into the stock and keep checking the clearance from fore-end to take down bolt, until you can slide a business card from one end to the other freely. At this point, you can add a little thicker shim under the takedown bolt or sand some more, but be sure it is free-floated. After free-floating be sure to seal the exposed wood from the sanding process. Tru-oil works great.

Replacing the pressure point is accomplished by adding one or two layers of 3M foam tape about 1/2 inch from the fore-end. The tape is cut into a 1/4 inch wide by 1 inch long strip and centered across the barrel channel. This method is used for two reasons. The pressure point is desired, but not a hard point. The foam tape applies consistent and constant pressure, but quickly dampens the harmonic vibrations and keeps the barrel centered in the channel.

With these tips taken care of and using the rest of the usual tricks as described on the RimfireCentral.com forums you should have an accurate rifle. Next is checking to find the ammo that the rifle will LOVE.

Try different types and brands shooting at least 5 - 5 shot groups. Clean with a bore snake or fishing line and patch between ammo types. The first 2 groups of the 5 are just to condition the barrel for that ammo. The last three will tell you if the barrel likes it and will tell you if the ammo is consistent enough to warrant rim/weight checking.

For match shooting, I use only the same weight ammo and is rim checked for a consistent/constant reading at different places around the rim. No variations. Ammo that has variations is used for silhouettes. Although kept sorted, but by only + or - .001 in thickness and same weight.

Use only one magazine, loading one round in the chamber, than removing the magazine and loading one more round before firing the round thats in the chamber. Do this for each round fired, so that you are putting a new round in the magazine before firing the next target. The very first round is to be shot off target as it is going to be a FLYER.
Pick a Stock that fits the use intended. A Fajen Thumb-Hole Silhouette for off-hand, a Thumb-Hole Sporter/Varminter for Bench or Target Shooting or what suits your fancy. I have both and change the stock as needed with no change in accuracy. Main thing is to be consistent with the takedown bolt torque, if you have the same bedding, free-floating set-up as described, and using the same technique and concentration when shooting. I use my Boyds TH Sporter for bench/match shooting because it rides the bags/rests better than the Fajen.

All of the described tips can be applied to any rim-fire rifle, except the bolt work; on a bolt action this is best left to a gunsmith. I have also applied the applicable ones of these to my Ruger #1V, 77/22 Mag and 77/22 and have gotten excellent results.

The components that make up my 10/22s are as follows:

Match Rifle
Volquartsen SS Fluted Barrel w/Compensator coated w/Black Teflon
Volquartsen TG-2000 Old Style,1 3/4# trigger
Volquartsen Custom Bolt
Leupold 4.5-14X50mm or Leupold 36BR
Volquartsen Barrel Mounted Scope Base w/Tasco Rings
Boyds Laminate TH Sporter

Silhouette Rifle (Scope Nite)
Volquartsen SS Fluted Barrel w/Compensator
Volquartsen TG-2000 New Style, 2 1/4# trigger
Accurized Ruger Bolt
Power Custom Titanium Firing Pin
Power Custom Titanium Bolt Handle
Leupold 4.5-14X50mm, Leopold 4.5-14X40mm, Tasco 5-20X50mm or Tasco ACD2ST RedDot
Volquartsen Barrel Mounted Scope Base w/Tasco Rings
Fajen TH Silhouette Stock

Silhouette Rifle (Open Sights Nite)
Ruger SS Hammer Forged Target Barrel
Volquartsen TG-2000 New Style, 2 1/4# trigger
Accurized Ruger Bolt
Williams Gunsights Custom Work, Receiver and Barrel Peep Sights
Fajen TH Silhouette Stock

I do swap things around to see if I can achieve better/improved accuracy or as the need suits me. Thats what is so much fun in tinkering with the 10/22s. As of now the above set-ups are the most accurate, to date and for their intended purposes.

Hope some or all of this helps. Good Luck and Good Shooting...Remember "Practice Makes Perfect" and Only Practical things Work......................................Ted
 

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