Mounting A J Point/Burris to the P22 Slide - Page 2 - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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  #16  
Old 01-24-2011, 12:57 AM
1917-1911M
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I lifted this off the net somewhere. This one is mounted on a 1911 and the red dot can take the recoil of large caliber pistols, shotguns and rifles.

This is what we are trying for but on the P22 slide. lcberlin I think mounted one to his slide, looked great but he glued it on. Cycled fine until the glue let go which wasn't long into his testing. Glue won't work but the sight will if there is a way to mount it. I've never gotten back to this and now the economy is too slow for me to do much experimenting with new stuff. M1911

Last edited by 1917-1911M; 01-24-2011 at 12:59 AM.
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  #17  
Old 11-08-2017, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1917-1911M View Post
I know TTIWWOP, this thread is worthless without pictures.
Regretably, now the pictures are long gone...

Did anyone ever try out this conversion, and did it work?
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  #18  
Old 11-08-2017, 05:02 PM
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No answers....
Well, it has to be tried.

At hand I have a Fastfire III and a picatinny base. Will have to do as a test setup, although I think this will be best with a JPOINT or Shield RMS (Reflex Mini Sight - basically a JPOINT in alu housing. Shield is the English manufacturer of the JPOINT branded Shield SMS (Shield Mini Sight)). These all have a much lower rear profile than that of the FF3 and thus the red dot is more easy to pick up, as it is situated not that far above the "iron" sights.

Also, they are more lightweight. Fastfire @ 25 grams, Shield RMS 17,5 grams and JPOINT 14 grams. That may give an impact on subsonic rounds, but the suppressor also provides more backward pressure, so this have to be tested. My test setup weigh in at 39 grams. The base plate can be lightened by removing the left side ridge from the picatinny setup (not needed in this application).

I chose to drill the fattest areas available in the breech block, and the setup is governed from this. There will be a conflict with the red dot mounting holes if the plate is mounted rearward without removing the rear sight and base loop, so for test purposes the mounting plate is attached more forward than ideal from an aesthetical point of view.

Next I have to get screws with flat heads and countersink the plate.

If test proves this setup to be good, I will either mount the plate to the far rear, or investigate how a JPOINT adapter plate can be mounted.
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Last edited by Brother In Arms; 11-10-2017 at 10:01 AM. Reason: typo + added info
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  #19  
Old 11-08-2017, 05:38 PM
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Last pic for now. Remember this is a test setup in the making.





EDIT: screws with flat heads obtained. They are countersunk into the plate. Stainless (the top one)
and carbon screws mixed, as they happened to come in the different correct lengths and I didn't need to cut them to size. Stainless 12mm, blue 8mm.
Loctite 222 to provide for easy removal.
Feeler gauges are used between left slide side and mounting plate picatinny ridge to provide straight mounting when tightening the adapter plate screws.


Last edited by Brother In Arms; 11-10-2017 at 03:01 AM.
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  #20  
Old 11-09-2017, 02:07 PM
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Ready for testing.

For now the bolts have been "semi rigid" fastened with Loctite 222, as they are going off again. No adhesive used for the plate, but when permanent mounted I would probably opt for Loctite 324 here.








Last edited by Brother In Arms; 11-10-2017 at 04:18 AM. Reason: problems posting IMG
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  #21  
Old 11-11-2017, 12:22 AM
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This is one of the pictures. I've been at the farm all week....no net there. I'll have to read your posts tomorrow Brother In Arms. 1917
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  #22  
Old 11-11-2017, 10:15 AM
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Thanks 1917, much appreciated.

I went to the pistol range today for a test. My setup is too heavy. The slide will not cycle properly with standard velocity ammo without a silencer. With silencer it cycles both standard and subsonic rounds (CCI, Eley tested).

I think I should try to lighten the mounting plate. The ridge pictured can be cut off.

I have another project going on, putting a red dot to a H&K P7. This involves some minor milling, so I put it away to a machine shop. When I get it back I will do measurements with the Shield RMS (JPOINT style) and perhaps go for this lightweight setup on the P22 instead. I will then utilize an ultra low, thin and lightweigt special mounting plate, made by Shield for the Glock MOS pistols - if there is enough material at the position for my screw holes. I utilize the same plate in the P7 project.





EDIT: This plate is made of steel and proved too heavy to use for a .22 setup,

Last edited by Brother In Arms; 11-25-2017 at 09:53 PM.
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  #23  
Old 11-11-2017, 10:37 AM
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You will find many pictures missing unfortunately. Photobucket kicked a lot of us off for third party hosting. I deleted my account but still have all of my pictures for the past 15 years. Just need to rehost at Imgur. I'll put the drawings back up. When I began this a long time ago the the first thing Idid was add weight to the slide to see what she would cycle. Even the short barrel will cycle more weight that a light weight red dot like you are using. It's the base you have to watch out for. Docter with real glass weighs more than the plastic lens models. Looks like you are on the tract that I was thinking about. That slide is very, very, thin up top and the firing pin actually drags along the underside....so, if you clamp the breech block to the top of the slide when installing this you might have to polish off just a bit of the top of the firing pin. I never got that far. Yes, I would remove all excess metal from the base. Weigh you sight and base. I know I was up to 43 gm and all was well as far as coins glued to the slide. Never got a tiny red dot but if they can be made to stick they are excellent sights. 1917

Last edited by 1917-1911M; 11-11-2017 at 10:42 AM.
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  #24  
Old 11-11-2017, 11:04 AM
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My setup weigh in at 39 grams, so perhaps you used a more potent round. Today I was only able to test with subsonic and a standard velocity rebranded CCI product, made for a major Norwegian sporting outlet.

It's not a big deal to me though, as I always shoot the .22 pistol subsonic and with silencer anyway, but I would like it to work with all ammo and with and without silencer.

I have no firing pin dragmarks under the slide, and I had no issue clamping the breech block. The firing pin moves free as before. The sight did not come lose from shooting, and all in all I think this will work good if I just manage to get the weight down a tad more.

So, your original drawings and suggestions, was it along with what I have done here?

Last edited by Brother In Arms; 11-11-2017 at 11:11 AM.
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  #25  
Old 11-11-2017, 11:46 AM
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Here is a copy of the original drawing showing the machine screws passing through the top of the slide and into the only steel available.....the beech block, but it isn't a large part.



Close up.



The location for the screws I was thinking of.



Appx location of drill points on top of the slide. 1917
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  #26  
Old 11-11-2017, 12:03 PM
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OK, had a chance to read your posts. Very good work. You are on the right track. The tolerances are very tight regarding the firing pin but there should be no harm in removing just a tiny amount from the top if necessary. As you know the breech block is fitted into some zinc slots molded into the slide and held in place with one roll pin. You have the original slide, the weak one. Many of these have broken particularly on the 5", model. The new, thicker slides will fit the old frame fine.

Over the years I've had a bit of a problem keeping the stabilizer in position on my 5" old pistol....in fact the original stretched out and would not clamp tightly. Walther sent me a Q model stabilizer and it is stronger. Still, this past weekend while shooting I began to get light strikes......what was happening is that the stabilizer was walking backwards, pressing the O ring I have between it and the muzzle end of the slide to the point the O ring wasn't letting the slide quite close sometimes. Result, light strikes. I cut off the O ring and kept firing. Fifty round later....the stabilizer was hitting the slide..

So, getting a bit aggravated at this I loosened the stabilizer and moved it forward.....and while I was at it....I decided to move the stabilizer as far forward as it would go to lengthen the sight radius and then I clamped that sucker down tight. It didn't move anymore and I picked up 1/2" more of sight radius.

But the reason I report this is that the slide closing and whacking the frame seems to impart more impact to the pistol, based on movement of the stabilizer, than the slide coming to a stop when moving rearward. You might keep that in mind regarding how you are clamping the base on for whatever it might be worth. You can't dampen the closing of the slide so from what I see the greatest impact will be when the forward moving slide slams shut. Excellent work BTW. I've thought of removing the polymer rear sight,, leaving the loop and cutting a hole in the red dot base that fits over it just right, so the loop can help hold the base in position.

I was firing Federal or Remington GB bulk when I was testing but I use dry, powdered moly as my lubricant and it is slick. 1917
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  #27  
Old 11-11-2017, 04:37 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. Very professional drawings, are you a machinist?

> I've thought of removing the polymer rear sight,, leaving the loop and cutting a hole in the red dot base that fits over it just right, so the loop can help hold the base in position.

Yes, I have considered the same :-) And it would be possible to revert back to the polymer sight, not that I am going that way though, with my ageing eysight. I have converted to red dots or lasers for most all my guns now.

Well, I hope the slide won't break. They really are low quality, but the P22 is a cheap and fun gun to tote around :-)
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  #28  
Old 11-11-2017, 09:54 PM
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Landscape Architect.....just think of what Walther could have done with the P22....mold the slide to hold a light weight red dot, interchangeable rear sights, could have put an aluminum slide on it....Ruger does, so does Smith on their P22 concepts. I think the smith has a steel frame and aluminum slide. They just can't make a barrel.....should purchase them from Walther. I'm probably going to remove the de-cocker from my new one....just don't see the need for it.

Find a really light weight red dot. Some weigh almost nothing. I'd want a 4 moa for target shooting. 1917
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  #29  
Old 11-12-2017, 09:08 AM
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Agree. I bought 8MOA dots for my pistols for fast target acquisition, and 3MOA's sidemounted for my AR-15 uppers. I find 8MOA to cover too much target area, and the P7 will either have the Shield RMS 4MOA sight or the JPOINT Circle dot sight that I am going to try out now. It has a 1MOA center dot and a 65MOA outer circle, but is made for shootgun use so I don't know how it will be at arms lenght, but it's an interessting dot pattern and I will check it out.

The Fastfire weights 25 grams, Shield RMS 17,5 grams and JPOINT 14 grams.

I removed the picatinny ridge now, but only gained 1,2 grams in weight reduction. With mounting hardware my setup weigh in at 40 grams now. I got to try it out with different types of ammo and without suppressor.

I just realized that you are the author of the "P22 Bible"! I performed several of your mods years back when I bought the P22 - very usefull. :-)

Last edited by Brother In Arms; 11-12-2017 at 03:55 PM.
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  #30  
Old 11-18-2017, 03:38 PM
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Last update from me in this thread.

I hit the range again, this time with a 3MOA FF3, a mounting plate 1,2 grams lighter than before, and a cleaned and lubricated gun. This time it did function with standard vel. ammo, without supressor.

I'm very pleased with this setup, it's like I got a brand new gun :-) And I can HIT my targets again, dispite my failing eyesight, as well as the added benefit of the silencer not interfering with the line of sight.

This was a test setup at the far forward position, but it works so well that I will keep it as is. The setup do blind the "loaded camber indicator" slot, but it's not much visible anyways and I have never used it. Do a press check instead.

My ageing eyesight also called for an update of my favorite gun, the Heckler & Koch P7M13 9mm, not an easy task for many reasons that I will not discuss here in this thread, but I'll put in a picture of the pair. Note the sleek apperance of the Shiled RMS as opposed to that of the Burris Fastfire 3.

Thanks for your attention.




Last edited by Brother In Arms; 11-18-2017 at 04:01 PM. Reason: typo
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