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  #1  
Old 01-21-2003, 02:42 PM
SteveG66

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541 Trigger Adjustment



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Guys, I was doing some maint. cleaning on my 541 THB, took the stock off and am now intrigued about the trigger adjustment screws.

Anyone have ideas on what each screw does to adjust. I have one behind the trigger assembly and two in the front.

I would like to reduce the creap and lighten it up if I can.

Thanks to all in advance for your help.

SteveG66
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  #2  
Old 01-21-2003, 03:20 PM
JohnBT
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I copied this off another board some time ago. As usual, I didn't note who wrote it:

Remington Trigger Adjustments


You will need a bit of good quality gun oil (CLP or equivalent), and a set of small screwdrivers, and some white or red nail polish.

Remove the barreled action from the stock.

Looking at the gun and trigger so the safety is up, and the barrel is pointing to your right... the front of the trigger is to your right...

The three screws are as follows...

On your right, (the front of the trigger) the top screw, near the action, is over travel...

The bottom screw is spring tension...

On your left side, (the back of the trigger) is the engagement screw.

First, break the white "Seals of God" and screw the three screws out enough
so that you see several threads.

They may be hard at first, but they are NOT staked in place. The screws and trigger body are carbon steel, and may be rusted, or they may have a sealant on them. Just break them free. Drop a teeny bit of oil on the threads. Run the screws in and out several times until the oil is in the threads, and they turn freely.

OK, now down to business.

Back out the spring tension screw out until there is just enough pressure to keep the trigger forward, but it's very light (4 or 5 oz's) and easy to move.

Back out the engagement screw, (the single screw on the left) and the over-travel screw (the upper screw on your right) out, so there's play to adjust.

Close the bolt on a cocked pin (don't pull the trigger) and VERY SLOWLY turn the engagement screw (on your left) in until the firing pin drops. Back it out about 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn. With the firing pin down, you should now feel the trigger wobble back and forth if you pull it because there is excessive over travel.

Because the back surface of the trigger is NOT undercut, you have to adjust over-travel with the pin "down".

Now, with the firing pin in the "fired" position, screw in the over-travel screw until it "just touches" the trigger lightly, preventing the trigger from moving... back out the over travel screw 1/4 turn. Pulling the trigger now, (with the pin "down") you should feel just the "slightest" free movement.

Now turn in the spring tension screw (lower right) to a pull that you like... I'd strongly suggest a good trigger pull gauge, instead of guessing.

Cock the pin and try it... it should break like glass.

Check by:

Slam the bolt closed a dozen times, check to see if the pin dropped each time. If the pin drops, back out the engagement screw 1/4 turn, and do again.

Cock the pin, set the safety, pull the trigger, release the trigger, and release the safety, a dozen times... if the pin drops, increase the spring tension (shouldn't be necessary, unless you're down around 10-15 oz's, and this trigger is not reliable at that light a pull.

Put white or red nail polish on the screws. Let dry, and put another coat on it again, and again.

There will be no "take up slack", this is a single stage trigger, and can't be adjusted to act like a two stage.

These triggers are easily capable of going to 24-26 oz's, and they keep the setting year after year, and I've never had to re-adjust one.
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Old 01-21-2003, 05:20 PM
SteveG66

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Thumbs up

Will dry firing to check safety damage the chamber? I am guessing probably not, but just want to ask rather than try and find the answer the hard way.

JohnBT, Thanks for the directions. I appreciate it. I will play with it tonight.

SteveG66
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  #4  
Old 01-22-2003, 10:01 AM
JohnBT
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Dry firing is bad. Use a spent case and turn it after every dryfire so the firing pin hits a new spot on the rim.

Having said that, a couple of dryfires never hurts much - usually.

John
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Old 03-11-2003, 10:04 PM
George Tatom

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541-HB Trigger!

I followed the suggested trigger adjustmens laid out here and I was unable to get the trigger pull under 2.5 pounds. The overtravel and the sear engagement came out fine however. I was removeing the spring tension screw and screw with installing a lighter spring. I was suprised when the trigger had spring tension on it with the spring removed. I thought about this for a few days and today I removed the trigger from the trigger assembly to find out is a spare spring could have been dropped in at the factory. Lo and behold a spring runs between the trigger and sear that supplies the tension to reset the sear.

I was tempted to reduce this spring tension by slowley removeing a half coil at a time. I decided to post here and see what you good people have to say. Here is where I am! With the trigger tension removed I have a very consistant 2.5 pounds pull. I checked it twenty times at least and there is absolutely no variation. I was hopeing to get the pull right at 2 pounds.

My question is would it benefit me to reduce the return spring tension and install the tension spring to get me back to the required #. I am not sure ,but it looks like the trigger on this rifle has a unnecessary trigger. Thanks for any shared thoughts.
George T.
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  #6  
Old 03-26-2003, 11:38 AM
Lame Rabbit

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Hi George:

You can get a lighter pull, by reducing the spring pressure. However, I would not cut the factory springs. I have found a spring kit, (just a box of springs),at a national home improvement store that has lots and lots of small springs, that can be cut to make lighter replacemants springs, for several types of triggers.

First check the trigger and sear for any burris, and imperfictions, as this can cause the trigger to be way too stiff. I say this because, you should be able to get it down to around a pound, just by adjusting the sear, and such.

If you don't feel that you can "stone" your trigger yourself, I would take it to a gunsmith.

I was able to get my trigger down to 3 ounces, but, I cranked it back up to just over 6 for BR shooting. I can set it quite a bit higher, for hunting.

Jim
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Old 03-26-2003, 02:26 PM
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aleaddict
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Question 541 T = 541 X ??

Hey folks --

I found this thread very interesting and informative.

I have a 541 X that I purchased through the CMP. From all the information I could find, these are the exact same rifles. Is this correct?

I haven't fired the 541 X in a couple years, primarily because of the heavy trigger pull. I'd like to try the same adjustments outlined in this thread as well. Any reason why this wouldn't work on my "X"?

This info ought to be posted in the "Tips and Tricks" forum

-- ale
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Old 05-09-2003, 09:34 AM
sormi
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aleaddict
The 541X trigger is not adjustable like the 541THB.
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Old 05-09-2003, 10:02 PM
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Thanks, sormi --

I read on another thread that this was indeed the case. Any thoughts on what my options are?

-- ale
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Old 05-10-2003, 03:27 AM
sormi
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Well some people used to drill a hole about 1/2 way where the spring goes. Then they would drop 1/2 a spring then put a pin in the hole they just drilled then they would use a lighter spring on top. I'ts kind of hard to explain. But the spring is used for two things the trigger pull and also a locking cam. If I remember correct. If you put too light of a spring on it the cam won't work. I have not messed with one in a while. You can drill and tap the trigger housing to make adjustment screws. It' s a lot of work but nothing really hard. I have some 6-40 set screws you can used for the adjustment screws..
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Old 05-12-2003, 04:04 AM
SEBeiser

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541 T HB with only 2 screws?

I tried to follow the 541 T trigger adj. outlined by JohnBT on his posting to this thread... my trigger has only the front (towards the barrel) two screws!

Can anyone tell me whats up?

THANKS!!!!!!!
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  #12  
Old 06-17-2003, 01:12 AM
CampFireBill

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My 541 is marked as 541T junior special, Target style stock intermeadate barrel weight. Being it says junior is confusing because it is a full size gun. My grandfather bought it new and the papers it came with shows different models and has that one down as a class b gun? any ideas? Anyway can this one be adjusted? I,ll dig it out of the safe tomorrow.
Bill
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  #13  
Old 08-19-2003, 12:23 PM
REM 37 MAN

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Hello Bill, I never knew Remington made a 541 marked, "junior special". I have a 521T marked, "junior special ". Thats interesting.

REM 37 MAN
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  #14  
Old 09-04-2003, 09:32 AM
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aleaddict,
I believe your trigger is the same as the 581. If so, it can be taken down to around 18oz safely. That is where mine is. When I need to, I can put mine back to 2lbs. You will need a #4-5 spring kit from brownells. It's the same diameter spring that is in the factory trigger, but brownells is a bit softer. To start, you will need to cut the new spring at least 3 coils longer. Then try it and work from there. It helps to polish the sear and trigger, but there is not much need to take any off.
If you try this, be sure and reassemble the gun and slam the bolt closed or smack the butt of the stock with a (rubber) mallet to make sure its safe. Do this several times.
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Old 09-04-2003, 10:52 AM
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Thumbs up Thanks for the info, K22

I'm leaving on a short (4-day) deer hunt this afternoon, so that project will have to wait...

Over the years, my Rem 541 has been moved further and further towards the back of the safe. I'm hoping this adjustment changes that trend

-- ale
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