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Old 09-28-2019, 03:02 PM
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Kidd 2 stage issues



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Hey everyone, i am having an odd issue with my kidd 2 stage that has come out of nowhere. It worked fine when I had it out a week ago but today when I took my rifle out of the safe to go shoot when I pull the trigger nothing happens. I could not get it to drop the hammer at all so i took it apart and examined the trigger group. It appears the issue im having is the transfer bar is rotating towards the wall of the housing and not contacting the sear connecting pin. I can move it back into position and it will work for 2 or 3 cycles before it comes out of position again. Has anyone had this issue or any idea on how to fix it? As always thanks for your help!!

Andrew

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Old 09-28-2019, 03:07 PM
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Bag it.. box it.. send it to KIDD More than you can fix Buddy.. they will take care of you! Call them 1st... explain your issue.. be nice.
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Old 09-28-2019, 03:13 PM
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Thats what i was figuring would be the case. Im pretty comfortable/familiar working on this stuff but i definitly do not want to take it apart and looking at it did not seem like something with the adjustments.

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Old 09-28-2019, 03:45 PM
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Spend $7.50 s and use the smallest USPS Priority Box, and it'll get there in a couple of days with free tracking.
Gives it excellent protection, and you can insure it for a couple bucks more if you wish.

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Old 09-28-2019, 03:51 PM
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They will fix it quick and get it back to you.
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Old 09-28-2019, 05:01 PM
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You don't even have to spend the $ to ship it. Call Kidd and let them know. I was having problems with one of my 2 stage triggers a while back. I called Kidd and told them and they sent me a brand new trigger that I received 2 days later. With the trigger was the box and return shipping label to send back my malfunctioning trigger. Doesn't get much easier than that.
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Old 09-28-2019, 05:20 PM
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A couple of questions:

What are the primary and secondary pull weight settings?

Do you own a trigger pull gauge?

Are you using any form of lubrication?

Did you try cleaning first?

If you can reset the trigger manually by pushing forward on the trigger blade, there is a drag that exceeds the return spring setting, you need to find out what it is.

May be as simple as cleaning.

If you have the skills, Kidd publishes complete adjustment instructions on the website.

If this is beyond your abilities, by all means get with Kidd, they will take good care of you.

Let us know how it all comes out.
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Old 09-28-2019, 05:34 PM
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Ok shooter, the issue was definitly with the transfer bar as it was coming off the sear pin and failing to release the wear. It is set at 4oz and 4oz now and I do own a trigger gauge. I use the tw25 grease kidd recomends and one shot to clean it.

So i went ahead and removed the hammer spring and retainer to get a better view. It looked to me that leg of the torsion spring that holds the transfer bar in position had somehow gotten slightly out of place. I moved it back to where i felt it should be and now its back to working as it should with no other changes so im hoping that was all that was going on. Im going to have a chance to shoot tomorrow so we will see but I cycled it at least 50 times with no issues at.

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Old 09-29-2019, 01:25 AM
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Sounds like you are doing everything right.

If it doesn't work out, as was said, Kidd will take proper care of you.
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Old 09-30-2019, 04:55 PM
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Well I managed to get a few rounds downrange yesterday with no trigger issues at all but I had a new problem with a bolt. I will be outlining that issue in a new thread with pictures shortly as its something I think people should watch out for with the JWH competitor bolt if you are using a kidd 2 stage. I had not used this combo before but essentially with the extra power spring as it hits the firing pin much harder then a traditional set up and actually damaged the firing pin retention pin to the point where it allowed the firing pin to extend past the bolt face and cause a nasty burr in the chamber during the dry firing I did when I was testing the trigger functiom. The burr was catching on the rounds going in and empty brass had to be pryed out with a knife. I very carefully cleaned up the burr but have not had a chance to test the rifle again. I emailed JWH today with what happened and am waiting on a response.

-Andrew

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Last edited by Andrew22; 09-30-2019 at 05:26 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 09-30-2019, 06:33 PM
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The extra strength spring is way stronger than needed, I know from personal experience.
It is actually intended for use when the trigger assembly is installed in a 10-22 Magnum. Run the standard hammer spring and you'll be fine.
As to replacing the stop pin, better get with JWH.
I had dealings with the man who first started it up, his name is Storey.
I don't know if he is still involved but he was a good guy to deal with, very fair.
You could also just use a piece of the correct size hardened drill rod to fabricate a new pin, providing you can get the bent one out.
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Old 09-30-2019, 06:36 PM
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I'm hoping they will at least send new pin. I can get one from the local fastenal store as its a standard m3 x17 size but I would rather not have to. I had switch back tovthe standard spring then I was told at one point that it helped with more consistent ignition due to the harder hit.

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Old 10-01-2019, 12:53 AM
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What really helps ignition reliability is profiling the front of the pin so it strikes below the rim, pinning the front of the bolt so the firing pin energy is all directed at the rim, not forward and upward, and proper head-spacing of the bolt.
You get all of that with the JWH bolt so no need for any stronger spring.
Were you dry firing without anything for the pin to strike?
Seems no way the stop pin is going to be touched if you are using live ammunition or a snap cap of some kind.
I don't make a habit of dry firing unless I'm checking for firing pin function, and I use a real plastic snap cap to record the hits when I do.
Examples of poor hit versus a good hit, it's the result of proper profiling of the tip, no matter brand of the rimfire rifle or handgun:

There is no priming compound in the outer rim, it's folded flat.
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Old 10-01-2019, 08:04 AM
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That is interesting info with the pin strikes. Do you reshape the firing pin on conventional style 10/22 bolts to make them hit below the rim like that?

I do not dry fire any of my other rimfires without a snapcap but when i bought the bolt I asked them if it was safe to dry fire with thier bolt and they said it was so I simply didnt bother with a cap with this gun or any of my other 10/22's for that matter. I also check every bolt i get to make sure the firing pin cannot go past the face of the bolt (this bolt was good initially). In retrospect i may start using a cap given what just happened.

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Old 10-01-2019, 12:31 PM
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I have all factory bolts in my 10-22's, all but one done by fellow member Que, and one from CPC. All are radiused, pinned, firing pin reshaped and trimmed to length following bolt machining to square the bolt face and set head-space.

Que and Randy had been doing this long before most of the companies that now sell bolts existed.

When JWH first went into business, you sent them your factory bolt for laser engraving only, then they started buying factory bolts from Ruger and doing the laser engraving and selling them.
Later on, they started into the manufacturing process to produce and market their own products.

I had several phone conversations with founder Storey before they engraved this bolt shown below.

The first bolt they ever did was this one that resides in my youngest daughter's rifle I built for her way back when:

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