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Old 09-27-2019, 09:57 PM
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What glue to glue gunstock laminates?



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I know this is not exactly a stock making question, but I know someone here knows the answer.

I have a flat "bar" of this kind of laminate:
http://cwp.fi/wp-content/uploads/201...nks2-kopio.jpg



I want to cut it into 3 equal pieces and then glue them together to make a block. What kind of glue should be used? I originally thought wood glue since it is wood, but it doesn't seem porous enough.

Any advice?

Last edited by kjk200; 09-27-2019 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 09-27-2019, 10:01 PM
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I can't get the image to work...
The type of laminate I am talking about is the gunstock type laminate that is used by Boyds and others that used to be made by Rutland Plywood in Rutland, VT;
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Old 09-28-2019, 09:32 AM
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I have laminated similar , make sure you have a good tooth etched on the surfaces to be bonded . West System Epoxy and a solid clamping fixture should do the trick .The West System has worked in the marine environment in boats , kayaks and spearguns , for me . I believe perhaps stronger than the factory adhesive. Good luck ! Add /Edit If you want it to look as the original Lam you may need to shave off one lam in a thickness planer or similar to have the right look .

Last edited by wjritchie; 09-28-2019 at 10:08 AM. Reason: took out extra and
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Old 09-28-2019, 11:12 AM
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I would use titebond or elmers wood glue. It's easy to use, cleans up with water and sands the same as wood. It will not delaminate and will hold for the life of the gun. You can use epoxy but it's overkill and messy to work with. My main problem with epoxy is the glue lines don't sand as fast as the wood around them.
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Old 09-28-2019, 12:53 PM
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I believe I used Devcon 2 part epoxy to fix a few walnut stocks that had cracked and I can barely see the repairs. I wouldn't use wood glue as my first choice on something that must be joined without dowels or drilling holes for pins. I believe the epoxy is stronger than the wood it joins. I had used elmers on a walnut shotgun stock my grandpa had taped and it left a yellow line. I eventually replaced the whole stock with a good one from ebay.
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Old 09-28-2019, 03:37 PM
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Titebond III for near invisibility in the seams. I knew someone who used Gorilla glue once, but it made the seams stand out.

You may also need a planer, depending on the surface quality of the CWP.

Boyd's gets their materials from Rutland Plywood Corp; their product is called Stratabond. They have a website, but it has no information.

Last edited by FALPhil; 09-28-2019 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 09-28-2019, 04:53 PM
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I've used Titebond II on laminates for wood turnings for 20 years and have never had one show any sign separation.
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Old 09-28-2019, 07:36 PM
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Urac-185 as used in making laminated limbs for bows. Made dozens of bows over the last sixty years and none came apart.
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Old 09-29-2019, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FALPhil View Post
Titebond III for near invisibility in the seams. I knew someone who used Gorilla glue once, but it made the seams stand out.

You may also need a planer, depending on the surface quality of the CWP.

Boyd's gets their materials from Rutland Plywood Corp; their product is called Stratabond. They have a website, but it has no information.
If Gorilla glue made the seams stand out it wasn't clamped tight enough. I've used it for numerous wood working projects including several gunstocks. You can't see a seam, only the difference of the wood grain of the pieces glued together.
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Old 09-29-2019, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arrowhead View Post
If Gorilla glue made the seams stand out it wasn't clamped tight enough. I've used it for numerous wood working projects including several gunstocks. You can't see a seam, only the difference of the wood grain of the pieces glued together.
Interesting. I have never used it. Titebond III seems to work great for me. I have also used epoxy glues with good results, but I don't have to mix Titebond, so I haven't used the epoxies in quite some time.
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Old 09-29-2019, 04:47 PM
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I started using it when I had a glue joint fail using Elmer's on red oak. I've never had a failure with it. I also use Titebond III now and then when it's not oak I working with and Elmer's has a new glue out that I just used to glue up a tabletop I'm in the process of building. I've forgotten the name of it and am to tired right now too walk out to the garage and see what it is.

At least fifteen years ago I built a new red oak trimmed countertop for my daughter's kitchen. I glued everything including the backsplash with Gorilla glue because it's waterproof. It's still just like it was when I finished it up.

I'm also in the process of replacing some wood that Boyd's should have left in the inside of a gunstock. I'm using red oak for it's compression resistance and Devcon epoxy as the glue.

Last edited by Arrowhead; 09-29-2019 at 04:52 PM.
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Old 09-29-2019, 06:27 PM
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Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjk200 View Post
I know this is not exactly a stock making question, but I know someone here knows the answer.
[snip-O-la!]

Any advice?
The same glue they use to make the laminate: epoxy.
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Old 09-30-2019, 02:00 PM
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The same glue they use to make the laminate: epoxy.
What stock mfg uses epoxy? Everything I read is otherwise.
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