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  #16  
Old 08-25-2019, 10:16 PM
dbuffington

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gobber View Post
A turn or so in on the trigger adjustment cleared it right up and has been solid ever since.
Thanks for the explanation! Where is the adjustment?

Thanks again!
Dave
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  #17  
Old 08-25-2019, 10:51 PM
Gobber
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It has been quite a while since I played with the trigger adjustments and I would not presume to reinvent the wheel in explaining. There are several here with much better understanding of the trigger geometry who have gone into detail on its adjustments.

Now, with all that said, there is one flathead screw set into the bottom of the safety slide that can be backed out a half turn or so that may relieve the issue with the safety bar. If memory serves, it works for mine. Worth a try at least.

The red arrow is to the screw




On a separate note, are you happy with your new acquisition?

Last edited by Gobber; 08-25-2019 at 11:06 PM.
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  #18  
Old 08-26-2019, 08:21 AM
dbuffington

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gobber View Post
Now, with all that said, there is one flathead screw set into the bottom of the safety slide that can be backed out a half turn or so that may relieve the issue with the safety bar.
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gobber View Post
On a separate note, are you happy with your new acquisition?
Short answer: Very happy.

Long answer: More than anything else, I'm pleasantly surprised. Russian firearms have a reputation for being crude, but this is nothing like that. The metal bits are well fitted and finished. The stock, while made of some soft, inexpensive wood, is stylish with an ornate and well fitted butt plate plus a nicely fitted grip cap.

With the exception of the safety bar issue -- which I now suspect is connected to the pull weight setting -- the straight pull mechanism works very well ... much better than the Anschütz Fortner action.

Oh, and it shoots =)

Thanks again!
Dave
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  #19  
Old 08-26-2019, 08:51 AM
Gobber
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You definitely got a nice copy (and I’m not going to mention the price again, you lucky dog).

The simplicity of the trigger pack, though a bit rough on the outside, is precise where it counts. The hammer / seer interface is quite nice on mine.

As far as common parts, all the pins in the trigger and mag well are 3mm drill rod and very simple to replace.
When I sent mine to be threaded for a suppressor, my gunsmith misplaced the three set pins for the trigger and mag well
Easy repair though- picked up a length of rod off amazon and cut them to fit with the trusty Dremel. Haven’t had a problem since.
If you ever need a bit, let me know.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dbuffington View Post
-- the straight pull mechanism works very well ... much better than the Anschütz Fortner action.
Now that’s saying something! I’ve never handled a Fortner before, but the video of their takedown looks pretty involved. Since mine has had several thousand rounds through it, the action is really smooth and the lockup is still rock solid. As a suppressor host, these gems are unmatched for the price - IMHO, YMMV, etc.
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  #20  
Old 08-26-2019, 09:02 AM
Triggershoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gobber View Post
It has been quite a while since I played with the trigger adjustments and I would not presume to reinvent the wheel in explaining. There are several here with much better understanding of the trigger geometry who have gone into detail on its adjustments.

Now, with all that said, there is one flathead screw set into the bottom of the safety slide that can be backed out a half turn or so that may relieve the issue with the safety bar. If memory serves, it works for mine. Worth a try at least.

The red arrow is to the screw




On a separate note, are you happy with your new acquisition?
Bd-- Adjusting the trigger pull/sear adjustment on the 7-2 is not for the faint of heart, and unless you have extensive experience, tools, and the requisite skillset for working on triggers, I would leave this to someone that DOES. This point CANNOT be emphasized enough!! One can EASILY make this trigger UNSAFE by fooling with the sear adjustment OR the pull weight adjustments if you don't know what you're doing. Having said that, adjustments (ideally) require removal of the entire trigger group from the rifle, AND at least partial disassembly of the trigger.

The screw, with the red arrow pointing to it in Gobber's photo, merely adjusts the amount of tension applied to the sliding "safety bar". The part that is circled in white blocks the bolt from opening when the safety is applied, and as Gobber mentioned, MAY be useful on a hunting rifle for the reason Gobber stated. One "negative" is that it is possible to damage the top of the bolt block lever with the safety applied. If you attempt to operate the toggle with "normal" force, as if you were going to open the toggle to chamber a round, it's very likely you will eventually "buggar" the top of the lever that prevents the bolt from opening. Now, I AM NOT recommending this, but I have removed that bolt block lever from both of my 7-2's. My reasoning is I wanted to preclude any damage to the bolt block lever, and also I prefer to be able to manipulate the toggle with the safety ON to allow one to check for the presence of a chambered round. Keep in mind that with the safety ON, you still cannot open the toggle/bolt completely, even with the lever removed.

Regarding actual trigger pull weight and sear adjustment on the 7-2, to do so require that the sliding safety bar be removed for access to the sear adjust screw. To adjust the actual pull weight requires a bit MORE disassembly. The coil spring (vertical orientation in Gobber's photo), shown in that more or less triangular shaped "window", controls both first AND second stage pull weight. One end of that spring (the "upper" end) is attached to a "fixed" anchor point, the other end attaches to a threaded stud in one of the trigger levers. This stud is where the pull weight adjustment is made. To lessen pull weight, with the spring removed of course, the stud is turned CCW (OUT of the trigger lever) to effectively "shorten" the distance between the spring's anchor points. To increase pull weight, the stud is turned CW (INTO the trigger lever) to "lengthen" the distance between the spring's anchor points. To get the pull weight EXACTLY where you want it, unfortunately, is basically a trial and error process. Too light OR too heavy a pull, and you must disassemble the trigger and try again.
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  #21  
Old 08-26-2019, 09:22 AM
dbuffington

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gobber View Post
Now that’s saying something! I’ve never handled a Fortner before, but the video of their takedown looks pretty involved.
Having taken two shots at Annie's in the same thread, I feel obliged to add ... Anschütz makes very fine guns, and I own several.

However, they're not flawless. The ongoing issues with weak ejection and unreliable magazines top the list, and it amazes me that those issues have not been completely eliminated after all these years.

As for the Anschütz/Fortner action guns. I've handed a grand total of one, which is always a dangerous sample size. However, that one was both rough and heavy to operate. Also, I do have experience with both rimfire (Browning, Izhmash) and center fire (Browning, Swiss) straight pull rifles. The Fortner was far more challenging than any of those.

Enjoy!
Dave
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  #22  
Old 08-26-2019, 09:35 AM
dbuffington

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Originally Posted by Triggershoe View Post
Bd-- Adjusting the trigger pull/sear adjustment on the 7-2 is not for the faint of heart, and unless you have extensive experience, tools, and the requisite skillset for working on triggers, I would leave this to someone that DOES
Which I will do I'm not even close to being a trigger expert, and really, the trigger pull is just fine as is. (The initial travel is pretty long, but dealing with that is just a matter of practice.)

The only real issue is the safety bar and trying to figure out how that's interacting with the tension on the rear action screw. Tightening that screw -- even up to a relatively gentle 24 inch/pounds -- raises the bar above the slot, even when the safety is off.

Maybe, as you suggested, I'll remove the safety bar. Do you cut it off? Or simply remove it?

Thanks!
Dave
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  #23  
Old 08-26-2019, 05:34 PM
Triggershoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbuffington View Post
Which I will do I'm not even close to being a trigger expert, and really, the trigger pull is just fine as is. (The initial travel is pretty long, but dealing with that is just a matter of practice.)

The only real issue is the safety bar and trying to figure out how that's interacting with the tension on the rear action screw. Tightening that screw -- even up to a relatively gentle 24 inch/pounds -- raises the bar above the slot, even when the safety is off.

Maybe, as you suggested, I'll remove the safety bar. Do you cut it off? Or simply remove it?

Thanks!
Dave
Dave-- Regarding that "long" pull, that initial take-up is simply the 1st stage of the trigger pull. As the trigger pull hits the "wall" (you feel increased resistance) that is the start of the 2nd stage pull. Very little trigger travel remains at this point before sear release and the rifle fires. The sear adjustment screw previously mentioned is what controls the amount of 2nd stage sear engagement, and ultimately how "crisp" (or not..) the 2nd stage let-off is. Hope that makes sense.

I am at a loss to explain what is going on with that safety bar when you tighten the rear action screw. Since the entire trigger group (including the safety mechanism) is pinned to the receiver, the scenario you describe seems really strange Can you post a pic or two of what you are experiencing?

Your last question about the safety bar, yes, you CAN cut the top portion of that lever off with a Dremel or similar, but it's a better idea to simply remove it, as you can save this part and re-install it later if you should sell the rifle.
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  #24  
Old 08-26-2019, 06:29 PM
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Congrads on the Biathlon Basic dbuffington.
Welcome to the club...
I have a few don't with the BB
Don't pull the trigger with the bolt removed, don't wipe the metal down with any
solvent too clean ( has phosphate metal treatment)
The safety has to be all the way forward or the safety bolt lock can hang up,
very easy too do some times when a person holds onto rifle to toggle the action
a person can move the safety back a little bit.
You can take the action out of the stock and observe safety & how the bolt lock work.

My BB is my Iron sight rifle.



Good luck

Last edited by midwest swiss; 08-26-2019 at 06:31 PM.
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  #25  
Old 08-26-2019, 07:51 PM
dbuffington

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Originally Posted by Triggershoe View Post
I am at a loss to explain what is going on with that safety bar when you tighten the rear action screw. Since the entire trigger group (including the safety mechanism) is pinned to the receiver, the scenario you describe seems really strange Can you post a pic or two of what you are experiencing?
I might have figured it out ... When I pulled the action out of the stock this evening I noticed two teeny, tiny flecks of wood on the safety bar. Then I noticed that the area where the safety bar would rest has been hand inleted:



I suspect the safety bar is rubbing against the stock, and the amount of rubbing is connected to the tension/position of the action screw.

Stay tuned,
Dave
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  #26  
Old 08-26-2019, 08:11 PM
dbuffington

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Originally Posted by dbuffington View Post
I might have figured it out ... I suspect the safety bar is rubbing against the stock, and the amount of rubbing is connected to the tension/position of the action screw.
I think I've got it ... I opened up that area toward the rear of the stock. Shaving off a bit of material, smoothing the area with a file and very slightly rounding the edge of the safety bar.

Now, I can tighten both action screws to 22 pounds, and the safety bar stays where it should.

I need to put some rounds through it before I declare success, but I'm close.

BTW ... the trigger pull, as I received the gun, measures around 1.5 pounds. Is that normal?

Thanks to all for all your help!
Dave
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  #27  
Old 08-26-2019, 09:45 PM
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Good I think ya got the safety on the right track now.

BTW ... the trigger pull, as I received the gun, measures around 1.5 pounds. Is that normal?


Maybe, mine was set @ 1.75 lb pull out of the box baugh my BB new in 2006 .
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