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  #1  
Old 08-06-2019, 12:46 PM
baddarryl
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First match! Sort of!



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Hey all. So I dropped in to a local match just to check it out with the intention of shooting it next month as I had never shot one before. They offered me a spot on the line so I informally just felt things out, shot the stages and tried to stay out of their way. Needless today I had a blast and want to do it again. I used my Marlin 981T bolt action.22 which did fine as it is a quite accurate little rifle. Gotta say I am now looking at CZ’s and Anschutz’s though! Also my cheap Simmons MAG 4x barely cut it. Off hand I was not quite 100% at 75 meters and about 25% at 100. Morning caffeine got me there! I have looked into other matches and they all seem to be a good ride from here, but I am willing. If any of you guys are into this what insights can you give me? I intend to treat it like IDPA where I am really just there for fun and self improvement. I’d be lying if I said it doesn’t get my competitive juices flowing when there, but I am not one to get gung ho about it either. Anyone else in SENC into this? Thanks
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  #2  
Old 08-06-2019, 01:33 PM
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It is easy to get revved, especially when you are welcomed and do well
I suggest getting better glass, a variable with AO with Target Knobs will let you dial the power as you learn how to use it and make easy adjustments.
Then there is ammo. What have you tested at distance and what did you use?
Might want to see Jaia's thread on '50 at 200' testing ammo at 22yds.
Better scope and ammo can often be used on a different rifle when/if you do upgrade but for now why not improve your current platform and wring everything you can out of it.
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Old 08-07-2019, 09:20 AM
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If you have a good trigger in a rifle you can shoot comfortably, that's all you will need until you feel you're too good for it.


You can't have too much magnification.


Practice, practice, practice. Start by sighting in at all 4 distances, especially turkeys and rams and check your zeroes every time you can. It doesn't matter if you can shoot a 1-inch group if it's not in the right place. Try to put 8 out of 10 shots where you want them and don't obsess about the flyers.


Some ammo is better than others of course but good enough is good enough. Re-zero if you change ammo. A sticker on the stock is a good place to write the scope settings.
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Old 08-07-2019, 12:16 PM
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If you have any lever action matches, check them out too. Lots of fun, and inexpensive because it's more Indian than arrow.

As mentioned, maintaining you zeros is a biggie. Weather and different lots of ammo have a sizable affect on zeros. I spend more time testing ammo and zeros, than I do "practicing".

Last edited by CamP; 08-07-2019 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 08-07-2019, 12:49 PM
baddarryl
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Thanks guys. I have a Marlin 981T with a rifle basics trigger in it so that is quite adequate for now. I also have an old Japanese 24x44 fixed Tasco but no AO and a newer Vortex Diamondback 4-12x40 with far better turrets on it, AO, and resettable zero that I will try. I tend to like less magnification than more in general. I think I am currently zeroed with CCI SV at 50 yards. I was able to hit 25m, 50m and 75m with no adjustment and dial up 6 MOA to get to 100 meters.

Do you guys practice on paper targets or buy some steel critters? Thanks

What do you guys zero at I guess for both the 25 meter matches and the 44yard? Do you use one zero for both and just record your twists? Or zero for each (independent of ammo zeroes)? Thanks.
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Old 08-07-2019, 12:59 PM
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Practice any way you like or can.
Use any practice time and sighter shots allowed at the match! Match day, place and conditions will be different than the day before someplace else, or even there.
For 100yd stuff Ive found if I am -0-ed for center hits on pigs Im pretty much good for turkeys and hold chix leg/body junction. Rams take some elev, trying to hold at the back, or 2-3" over back has not worked well for me. I adjust up. I do way more elev. adj. than windage.
Ymmv
200yd matches are not so 'easy'.
And take NOTES/keep a book so you dont have to re-invent your wheel. My memory aint what I remember it being.....
Btw, I have a chix swinger at 50yd. In our matches it is won/lost on the chix. I should practice that more....one swinger that doesnt need to be reset was a good buy and I have 50yd in my backyard.
I consider the pigs gimme's, I should clean the rail every time. Should.....
The turkeys are harder because the neck & high head tends to draw my shots to that side and up, but they are farther out so the higher isnt bad as much as the toward the neck side.
The rams shouldnt be harder than the pigs, but they are for me.

Last edited by gcrank1; 08-07-2019 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 08-07-2019, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddarryl View Post
...Do you guys practice on paper targets or buy some steel critters?..
Steel is fun but I do most of my practice on paper because it shows me why I missed. By the time I've checked zeroes and shot paper at 2, 3 or all 4 distances it's close to time to go home.

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Originally Posted by baddarryl View Post
...What do you guys zero at I guess for both the 25 meter matches and the 44yard? Do you use one zero for both and just record your twists? Or zero for each (independent of ammo zeroes)? Thanks.
?25 meter matches and the 44yard? Our targets are at 40, 50, 75 and 100 yards. Many ranges use the same numbers of meters.

You should be able to go directly to the setting for any of the 4 distances without going to zero first to count clicks. If your turrets are labelled, that's easy. If not, put some tape on the top one and make marks in the right places.

FWIW, my primary zero is at turkeys and I usually reset the turret so that's where "0" is but that's not necessary.
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Old 08-07-2019, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by baddarryl View Post
Do you guys practice on paper targets or buy some steel critters? .
I built a silhouette range for practice. Ringing steel and knocking over targets is my therapy.

In lever action silhouette, you re-zero at each distance so everyone uses peep sights, with target knobs for quick elevation adjustments. We shoot in meters. 40, 50, 75 and 100.
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Last edited by CamP; 08-07-2019 at 10:22 PM.
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  #9  
Old 08-08-2019, 07:23 AM
baddarryl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamP View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by baddarryl View Post
Do you guys practice on paper targets or buy some steel critters? .
I built a silhouette range for practice. Ringing steel and knocking over targets is my therapy.

In lever action silhouette, you re-zero at each distance so everyone uses peep sights, with target knobs for quick elevation adjustments. We shoot in meters. 40, 50, 75 and 100.
To avoid confusion the one match I shot was set up 25, 50, 75, 100, but I am aware most go 44, 60, 77, 100 or some variant.

My understanding of zero is set to one distance then adjustment accordingly. What do mean re zero each distance?
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Old 08-08-2019, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by baddarryl View Post
To avoid confusion the one match I shot was set up 25, 50, 75, 100, but I am aware most go 44, 60, 77, 100 or some variant.

My understanding of zero is set to one distance then adjustment accordingly. What do mean re zero each distance?
In NRA smallbore lever action matches, we shoot 1/2 scale targets at 40, 50, 75, and 100 meters, and we re-zero our elevation for each distance so there is no holdover or hold under.

Here in Texas, cowboy lever action silhouette matches are much more popular than hunting rifle silhouette matches. The games are similar, but the lever action targets are larger because iron sights are required.

Last edited by CamP; 08-08-2019 at 09:21 AM.
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  #11  
Old 08-08-2019, 10:17 AM
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Re-0- means you adjust the scope for center hits; ie, point of aim is point of impact for each distance/critter/bullseye, etc.
If I do my primary -0- for pigs and set the turrets to actual-0- (and note it in the book) then IF I change I go do chix I would count down X and note it. Same for going up on turkeys and rams.
At our shoots with only 4 stations we have to be in relays, one never knows what station one will draw to began in the relay we are in. Once known, check the book, set the scope and use whatever time is allowed to check the -0- on the sighter, tweak if needed, and go to shooting for score.

Last edited by gcrank1; 08-08-2019 at 10:23 AM.
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  #12  
Old 08-08-2019, 03:43 PM
baddarryl
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Originally Posted by gcrank1 View Post
Re-0- means you adjust the scope for center hits; ie, point of aim is point of impact for each distance/critter/bullseye, etc.
If I do my primary -0- for pigs and set the turrets to actual-0- (and note it in the book) then IF I change I go do chix I would count down X and note it. Same for going up on turkeys and rams.
At our shoots with only 4 stations we have to be in relays, one never knows what station one will draw to began in the relay we are in. Once known, check the book, set the scope and use whatever time is allowed to check the -0- on the sighter, tweak if needed, and go to shooting for score.
Exactly what I was thinking and how I’d do it. Thanks
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Old 08-08-2019, 03:46 PM
baddarryl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamP View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by baddarryl View Post
To avoid confusion the one match I shot was set up 25, 50, 75, 100, but I am aware most go 44, 60, 77, 100 or some variant.

My understanding of zero is set to one distance then adjustment accordingly. What do mean re zero each distance?
In NRA smallbore lever action matches, we shoot 1/2 scale targets at 40, 50, 75, and 100 meters, and we re-zero our elevation for each distance so there is no holdover or hold under.

Here in Texas, cowboy lever action silhouette matches are much more popular than hunting rifle silhouette matches. The games are similar, but the lever action targets are larger because iron sights are required.
That sounds great. I have a 1970 Marlin 336 in .30/30. All I need is an excuse for peep sights for it. Is there a class for that?
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Old 08-08-2019, 03:51 PM
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I expect everybody has their own way of doing things, I just know what makes easy sense to me and avoids me getting confused on game day. I go into 'my routine' for prep and mindset while a bunch of the guys are still yutzin'. But when it is showtime Im ready .
Using my method and notes I can get quickly set up at any station and when the firing line is open for sighters Im on the sighter target, often within a few clicks of where I need to be, or just verifying I am 'on' and can move to shooting for score.
This has worked for me for some years now. If what you try doesnt work dont be afraid of changing the process up for something that does; ie, make it yer own, then settle in and have fun.
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Old 08-08-2019, 11:34 PM
CamP

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Originally Posted by baddarryl View Post
That sounds great. I have a 1970 Marlin 336 in .30/30. All I need is an excuse for peep sights for it. Is there a class for that?
There sure is and it's a blast. It's NRA Lever Action Rifle Silhouette. Some call it Cowboy Lever Action Rifle Silhouette, but the NRA dropped the Cowboy moniker because it was getting confused with cowboy action shooting.

Most people shoot 30-30, but 38-55 also works well. The animals are full scale and set at 50, 100, 150 and 200 meters.
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