Can you swap bolts between the same model of guns? - Page 6 - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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  #76  
Old 08-13-2019, 08:07 PM
Frank3

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  #77  
Old 08-13-2019, 08:09 PM
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  #78  
Old 08-13-2019, 08:12 PM
Frank3

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Looks like it is binding on the top and a little on the right side.

The first pictures are just cycling the bolt once. Bottom pictures are from cycling it a few times.

One picture looks like there is a hair in the receiver and that is a hair or thread.

The one picture with the circle on the top of the receiver is very close to where it was drilled and tapped for a screw on the receiver.


Would you guys lap it with something like JB bore paste and just work the action?


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  #79  
Old 08-13-2019, 11:25 PM
SBS
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Really simple. Whoever d&t the hole in rear receiver didn't deburr the hole on the inside. These actions were case hardened (includes the inside surfaces also) and drilling a through hole leaves a hard burr that is unlikely to go away without some work. A large rat tail file will remove the majority of it and likely won't touch the rest of the hardened surface. A piece of dowel rod with some 320 wet/dry will smooth it up. I would then polish my bolt body some where it has made contact with the burr.
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  #80  
Old 08-14-2019, 07:52 PM
Frank3

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBS View Post
Really simple. Whoever d&t the hole in rear receiver didn't deburr the hole on the inside. These actions were case hardened (includes the inside surfaces also) and drilling a through hole leaves a hard burr that is unlikely to go away without some work. A large rat tail file will remove the majority of it and likely won't touch the rest of the hardened surface. A piece of dowel rod with some 320 wet/dry will smooth it up. I would then polish my bolt body some where it has made contact with the burr.
how smooth of a file?
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  #81  
Old 08-14-2019, 08:51 PM
justinp61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank3 View Post
how smooth of a file?
If it were mine the files would stay in the tool box. I'd take the trigger off the action and remove the breech bolt guide. Then take a piece of 1/2" piece of wood dowel with a piece of 320 grit wet/dry sand paper and sand it until the bolt went in smooth. After that I'd probably polish it with a piece of 6 or 800 grit paper. My .02.
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  #82  
Old 08-14-2019, 10:11 PM
SBS
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Well, a file will remove the burr since the cased surface has been broken and yet won't be hard enough to cut the rest of the surface. Sandpaper of any sort is an abrasive and will wear away the inside cased surfaces. Which is why I suggest using a fairly fine round file to remove as much of the burr as possible. You don't want to polish the whole interior with abrasive and lose your nice slick case hardening. Have d&t and cleaned up a number of 52 C/D models, and Anschutz receivers are much the same, being case hardened. Best to not drill them all the way through and avoid this problem, but when they are already done this way, have to just do the best you can removing the burrs.
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  #83  
Old 09-12-2019, 09:49 AM
Frank3

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Small update:

Got it cycling better (still not great but better).

Took it to the range yesterday and the bolt is shaving the bullets in the magazine as I cycle the bolt backwards.

Is this normal for these guns?

I have a single shot adapter but I would like to figure out if this needs more polishing to fix this.
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  #84  
Old 09-12-2019, 05:12 PM
SBS
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Turn your bolt over. On the bottom at the very front and right in the middle of your bolt is a small straight section about .250" long and .125" wide. The front (which is part of the bolt face) strips the round out of the magazine and the rear is part of the bolt stop. The piece that sticks up in the receiver out of the trigger assembly is a sear on the back and a bolt stop on the front. The rear of the piece mentioned above is riding over the top of the next round in the magazine and apparently damaging the bullet. The rear edge of this piece is usually ground at an angle to minimize this damage, but rounding (just the corner) and polishing the corner and the bottom may help. Be sure to leave it flat on the back so it will make solid contact with the front of the sear. Might also look at the front of the sear (bolt stop side) and make sure it is flat and smooth and not causing any burrs on the rear of the stop piece on the underside of the bolt. I don't think you will totally eliminate the problem since lead is much softer than steel. You could take a little of the magazine spring out and see if it helps and also see if it still has enough spring power to feed all the rounds. Might want to buy a Wisner replacement magazine if you want to try this approach.

Last edited by SBS; 09-12-2019 at 05:18 PM.
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