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  #61  
Old 07-30-2019, 06:12 PM
Frank3

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Well good news and bad news.

Good news- Got it all apart and itís going into the ultrasonic cleaner... boy was it dirty.


Bad news. Even stripped down the bolt takes some effort to cycle the bolt. I donít think the action is tweaked because it only starts to get tough when you hit the flat spot that the breach bolt guide attaches to. Almost like it needs some bore paste and polishing the action to the bolt. Going to clean everything and oil first then see how we are


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  #62  
Old 07-30-2019, 06:31 PM
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Dang, I was kinda hoping it was the breech bolt guide, since they're relatively cheap and readily available.

I had a friend, like you, that bought a barreled receiver (his was an "E") with no bolt and had to buy and fit a separate bolt and breech bolt guide. For him, the breech bolt guide was the only issue. I remember fixing it for him but not exactly how I did it . I think I stoned the bottom down, but his was obviously a single shot with a solid receiver.

I know you mentioned this, but you are sure there are no burrs or screws from the left side of the receiver protruding into the bolt raceway, right? Never hurts to check again. You might paint a thin coat of Dykem on the bolt body to determine where the contact is.

Of all the things that could be wrong, I would think a distorted receiver would be the least likely. Having said that, I've seen a couple of "C" receivers that probably should not have left the factory. Your receiver likely worked fine with its original bolt, but your new bolt probably has different tolerances.

TBR
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  #63  
Old 07-30-2019, 06:36 PM
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If you haven't already, remove the aftermarket sight mount on the left side of the receiver. Make sure when the receiver was drilled and tapped that burrs inside the receiver were removed. Also, loosen and then tighten the screw that holds the bolt guide/ejector when the bolt is on top of it so that is aligned properly. Getting the gunk off the bolt and the inside of the receiver is probably the most important.
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  #64  
Old 07-30-2019, 09:26 PM
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I am thinking that the bracket on LH side of receiver is for a scope. I agree, if removable, remove it and then check bolt. Hopefully it is not welded. If so, that could be the culprit....possibly distorted the receiver from welding.
That bracket is about all that's left that could be causing problem. If screwed on to side of receiver, check very closely for protruding burrs or deformation where tap went through receiver. It should be relatively easy to determine exact point where binding occurs. I concur with the idea of using Dykem or even a black marker to coat inside the receiver and see where high spots are.
Steve
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  #65  
Old 07-30-2019, 10:19 PM
Frank3

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Thank you gentlemen for the advice.

Itís sitting in the cleaner at my dads right now.

Got a NRL22 match tomorrow for my boy so I donít know if I can get to it.

The scope mount doesnít look like itís removable. It looks pinned and probably welded or brazed. I will double check once it is clean but none of the pins seemed to be protruding.

The binding begins to start when the bolt encounters the flat spot of the receiver (right behind where the magazine enters the receiver) and the bottom side of the bolt.

I am hoping once I mark it up to see where itís binding it will only be on the bottom side of the bolt. The first 1-1.5Ē of the receiver the bolt slides in no problem.

Who knows. There is so much crap coated in the receiver that might luck out.

I will say with a little CLP on the bolt, it got a little easier to close but still only like to be pushed exactly straight and behind the firing pin.

The dragging reminds me when I had a bottom metal screw on my cz455 go up and touched the bottom of my bolt.


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  #66  
Old 07-31-2019, 11:41 AM
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The possibly permanently attached mount on the left side of the receiver is quite suspect. Keep in mind that even silver soldering would tremendously heat a receiver, brazing would be even worse, and welding even more than brazing.

Also, in the event there was some drilling involved in attaching that mount, the "C" receivers were surface hardened, meaning there is a thin but very hard skin on the outside and inside of the receiver. When drilling and tapping 52 "C" receivers, either pinpoint annealing or use of carbide cutting tools is necessary. Pinpoint annealing on the outside of the receiver is doable, but It would be more difficult for one to pinpoint anneal the inside of the receiver, or it might not even occur to him that the inside is also glass hard. So, when one is drilling through the outside, he would be able to drill through until the bit encounters the very hard skin on the inside -- this is true when using carbide drills bits as well -- and when that happens, the tendency is to push very hard to fully penetrate, since he is almost through, and that tends to create and leave burrs or high spots on the inside surfaces.

So, irrespective or whether or not distortion is there, or, if there, irrespective of whether or not it happened at the factory or later, I still think the original bolt probably worked fine, or was modified to work, and now use of your spare bolt is creating resistance.

Anyway, it sounds like you're close, so let us know what happens.

TBR
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  #67  
Old 07-31-2019, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank3 View Post
I donít know what kind of lube was used on this gun but it has gone super sticky and dark brown (almost like the crap they put on fly paper).
Try cleaning the trigger and sear with lighter fluid. Soak, repeat.
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  #68  
Old 08-01-2019, 11:16 AM
Frank3

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Trigger works well now that it is cleaned up.

3 times through the ultrasonic cleaner fixed that.


Bolt still isnít perfect. If you push directly on the back the bolt goes in smoothly and out but using the bolt knob can cause binding.

Havenít had a chance to put some marking on it to see where itís rubbing but I am betting itís the rear of the bolt and the bolt handle where it touches the action.




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  #69  
Old 08-01-2019, 01:33 PM
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Not good if the front of the bolt is pressed against the barrel when closed. So mark the end of the bolt front and make sure it's not against the barrel when the bolt is closed all the way. Almost sounds like it's hard to close the bolt handle, which can happen if the bolt is being forced against the back of the barrel. A little can be taken off the front end of the bolt or the bolt handle can be ground down a little thinner -- all depending on headspace measurements.
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  #70  
Old 08-01-2019, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank3 View Post
Trigger works well now that it is cleaned up.

3 times through the ultrasonic cleaner fixed that.


Bolt still isnít perfect. If you push directly on the back the bolt goes in smoothly and out but using the bolt knob can cause binding.

Havenít had a chance to put some marking on it to see where itís rubbing but I am betting itís the rear of the bolt and the bolt handle where it touches the action.




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I doubt the OP means the bolt nose is hitting the end of the barrel, just that the bolt is binding at some point when the bolt handle enters the end of the receiver.

In any event, it sounds like classic bolt binding from too tight tolerances. I have an unusual German-made rifle that does the same thing. Most centerfire bolt guns have some type of anti-bind feature, like the thin lug on a pre-64 M70 bolt body, or a tongue-and-groove arrangement like on the locking lug and receiver of the M700. Without protruding locking lugs, though, a rimfire M52 bolt should not bind like that, so something is definitely awry. Keep us posted on the Dykem, or whatever you use, test.

TBR
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  #71  
Old 08-02-2019, 01:15 PM
Frank3

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEDDY BEAR RAT View Post
I doubt the OP means the bolt nose is hitting the end of the barrel, just that the bolt is binding at some point when the bolt handle enters the end of the receiver.

In any event, it sounds like classic bolt binding from too tight tolerances. I have an unusual German-made rifle that does the same thing. Most centerfire bolt guns have some type of anti-bind feature, like the thin lug on a pre-64 M70 bolt body, or a tongue-and-groove arrangement like on the locking lug and receiver of the M700. Without protruding locking lugs, though, a rimfire M52 bolt should not bind like that, so something is definitely awry. Keep us posted on the Dykem, or whatever you use, test.

TBR
correct

The nose is fine and the rear end looks like it is binding.

Got some Dykem coming but I am gone for a week so this will have to wait till I get back and get some time.

Half temped to take 1 round and fire it to see if it fires but I need to test headspace too... if it's not one thing it's another
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  #72  
Old 08-10-2019, 04:38 PM
Frank3

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Dykem won't be here till Monday (at least that's what Amazon says).


What's the best scope mount?

the current scope mount and scope rings won't let the bolt clear my current scopes.

The top looks like it is drilled and tapped for scope mounts but also I keep reading about a cantilever mount that mounts to the side also from "Randy"?

Would this work?

https://www.opticsplanet.com/egw-win...T8-WIN52-42702
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  #73  
Old 08-10-2019, 05:34 PM
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I have the EGW rail on one of my D's. My only complaint is that the scope is too far forward by just a bit d to suit me .
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  #74  
Old 08-13-2019, 08:05 PM
Frank3

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Here are the pictures with Dykem







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  #75  
Old 08-13-2019, 08:06 PM
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