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  #16  
Old 07-25-2019, 05:52 PM
dokey
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It's electro engraved on the flat of the bolt body
Pete
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  #17  
Old 07-25-2019, 05:55 PM
dokey
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It's on the flat of the bolt body. If you want a pic email me at [email protected] and I'll reply with pics

Last edited by dokey; 07-25-2019 at 05:58 PM.
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  #18  
Old 07-25-2019, 06:45 PM
joet333
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Pete, thanks for the reply. I looked at the flats of the bolt as you suggested with a high power magnifier and bright light, and indeed the bolt is electro-etched with a matching serial number. It was difficult to see due to the age and use.
Thanks again,
Joe
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  #19  
Old 07-25-2019, 07:13 PM
Big Larry
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The numbers are very hard to see. You pretty much need a strong light and magnifying glass to see some of them. Big Larry
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  #20  
Old 07-25-2019, 07:31 PM
Frank3

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Got a bolt coming. Just need to pick up some go no go gauges to see how it is when it gets here.


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  #21  
Old 07-25-2019, 10:04 PM
Seewin
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Just a word of caution with the gages. I prefer to check headspace with no firing pin spring in the bolts of the rifles I build. The spring will mask the amount of pressure required to close the bolt and not only open the possibility of a false reading, but also making a rim impression in chamber face. You are dealing with a lot of camming force working on a very small rim, surface area-wise with hardened steel gages. I even do it this way on my center fires.
Steve
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  #22  
Old 07-26-2019, 12:46 AM
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Is the set of gauges to be used on a Win M52 specific to the model, to target guns/match chambers, Bentz, or ????
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  #23  
Old 07-26-2019, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seewin View Post
There were actually 4 different bolt handle sizes used on the C,D,& E's. They were categorized by lengths from back of locking lug to front thrust surface of handle. They were .735", .737", .739" and .741". Tolerance on all was +0"/-.002", thus covering a range of .009". Nominal headspace was set at .043" for these models, and .045" +/- .001" on the B's.
Personally, I would rather have a replacement bolt with a bit more headspace, than overly tight, which puts undue stress on camming surfaces of bolt and body. If they are too tight, you can set them up on surface grinder and reduce thickness to adjust. If too loose, you need to make a shim to slip between bolt handle and body. I never cared for this method of adjustment, always seemed like a "band aid" approach.
The "B" bolt handles were only made in 1 size (long) and then ground to qualify.
Steve
I believe this post is worthy of Winchester 52 Sticky status. This type of information may have been posted before, but I don't recall seeing the actual dimensions and tolerances mentioned...and I didn't realize there were 4, not 3, bolt handle thicknesses .

TBR
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  #24  
Old 07-26-2019, 05:26 PM
dokey
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Lucky for Us when Steve posts you learn something new. Are the different measurements in the bolt bodies or the handles?
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  #25  
Old 07-26-2019, 05:35 PM
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He states "bolt handle sizes", and further mentions surface grinding "them" for minor headspace adjustments, which I think clearly also means the bolt handles...assuming I ever think clearly

TBR
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Old 07-26-2019, 10:07 PM
Seewin
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The dimensions I posted pertain to bolt handles only. All bodies were the same length.
Steve
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  #27  
Old 07-27-2019, 08:23 PM
LarDaBear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEDDY BEAR RAT View Post
I believe this post is worthy of Winchester 52 Sticky status. This type of information may have been posted before, but I don't recall seeing the actual dimensions and tolerances mentioned...and I didn't realize there were 4, not 3, bolt handle thicknesses .

TBR
I second the motion!
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  #28  
Old 07-27-2019, 08:55 PM
Frank3

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seewin View Post
Just a word of caution with the gages. I prefer to check headspace with no firing pin spring in the bolts of the rifles I build. The spring will mask the amount of pressure required to close the bolt and not only open the possibility of a false reading, but also making a rim impression in chamber face. You are dealing with a lot of camming force working on a very small rim, surface area-wise with hardened steel gages. I even do it this way on my center fires.
Steve


Forgive my graveyard shift induced slow thinking.

So you remove the firing pin spring but not the extractor?

I was looking at these go, no-go gauges to buy

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/saami...-go-no-go.html

Anything I am missing.

Btw just found a single shot adapter in all the crap besides the regular magazine it has.


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  #29  
Old 07-27-2019, 10:00 PM
Seewin
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Certainly would not hurt to remove extractors or just place gage under the extractor claws. The only reason I mentioned removing the extractor spring is to make it easier to feel more precisely what you are doing. Big heavy firing pin springs make it very tough to determine if you are overcoming the spring or actually feeling the gage dead head against chamber face. It is much easier to feel a shoulder bottom out on the large shoulder of a centerfire than the diminutive edge of that little 22 rim. This is especially true if this is your first go at it.
As far as gages, I have a set that I made myself years ago that step in thousandth's of an inch. I think you will find that most gunsmiths that specialize in rimfire match chambers use the same technique. I find that the go/no-go gages sold for SAMI spec work cover a a large range in 2 basic gages which I do not care for. I am sure PTG, or any other reamer manufacturer can make any gage you desire to any thickness you want.
Might be a good subject to discuss with PTG if you are so inclined. Seem's to me a pretty large expense to go to for fitting one bolt only.
Steve
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  #30  
Old 07-28-2019, 10:27 AM
Frank3

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seewin View Post
Certainly would not hurt to remove extractors or just place gage under the extractor claws. The only reason I mentioned removing the extractor spring is to make it easier to feel more precisely what you are doing. Big heavy firing pin springs make it very tough to determine if you are overcoming the spring or actually feeling the gage dead head against chamber face. It is much easier to feel a shoulder bottom out on the large shoulder of a centerfire than the diminutive edge of that little 22 rim. This is especially true if this is your first go at it.
As far as gages, I have a set that I made myself years ago that step in thousandth's of an inch. I think you will find that most gunsmiths that specialize in rimfire match chambers use the same technique. I find that the go/no-go gages sold for SAMI spec work cover a a large range in 2 basic gages which I do not care for. I am sure PTG, or any other reamer manufacturer can make any gage you desire to any thickness you want.
Might be a good subject to discuss with PTG if you are so inclined. Seem's to me a pretty large expense to go to for fitting one bolt only.
Steve
Steve -

1. Who are some of the rimfire gunsmiths you would recommend?

I know Randy at CPC but I am not familiar with others.

I do have Vudoo arms that is somewhat local to me (about 5 hrs away). I might talk to a bunch of the guys at the next NRL22 match and see if they know one.

2. Are there some major do's and don'ts with Winchester 52c's (e.g. don't dry fire, don't use HV ammo, need to clean often, etc..)?

3. Will I need a bolt disassembly tool to pull the spring out or can I do it with normal shop tools?
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