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Old 07-24-2019, 02:04 PM
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Can you swap bolts between the same model of guns?



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Might be able to pick up a 52b or 52c gun (donít know which and probably from the 40ís or 50ís if I had to guess).

Problem is it is missing the bolt but I have found a place with 1 of each.

Can I buy the bolts and have them work in the action or is each bolt mated to each action?


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  #2  
Old 07-24-2019, 02:31 PM
Big Larry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank3 View Post
Might be able to pick up a 52b or 52c gun (donít know which and probably from the 40ís or 50ís if I had to guess).

Problem is it is missing the bolt but I have found a place with 1 of each.

Can I buy the bolts and have them work in the action or is each bolt mated to each action?


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M52 bolts are fitted to the individual rifle and then numbered to that gun. They must be properly headspaced to maintain their accuracy. They may fire OK, but you may lose the accuracy these rifles are noted for. A GOOD gunsmith can properly headspace the bolt. Big Larry
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Old 07-24-2019, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Larry View Post
M52 bolts are fitted to the individual rifle and then numbered to that gun. They must be properly headspaced to maintain their accuracy. They may fire OK, but you may lose the accuracy these rifles are noted for. A GOOD gunsmith can properly headspace the bolt. Big Larry


Good to know.

Is there a list of 52 gunsmiths?

I know 10/22 gunsmiths but donít know who I would trust with a 52


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  #4  
Old 07-24-2019, 05:48 PM
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What Big Larry says is true.....it's not wise to use a mismatched bolt with the assumption that it will work just fine.

However, it may "work". It is not uncommon to find CMP guns with mismatched bolts. I'm not an expert on these guns, but from what I think I recall reading about it, when the guns were cleaned, sometimes the correct bolts were not put in the correct guns. I suppose they worked well enough (as in they functioned) sometimes, but I'm also pretty sure that many suffered some accuracy loss due to less than optimal headspace. Headspace does affect accuracy.

To be sure, I would definitely check the headspace on a mismatched gun. If that checks out, then you should be good to go. If not, then as already stated, it may need a smith's attention to get proper heaspace.

In the "for little it may be worth" department.

James
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:56 PM
Big Larry
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When Springfield Armory reworked their 22's or just upgraded them, they were again headspaced and renumbered. The old number was polished off. Most high quality rifle bolts are numbered to the rifle. Both centerfire and rimfire. Winchester started this policy back in the 20's. The older M52's did not have numbered bolts. Big Larry
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:58 AM
dokey
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C,D and E bolts are basically of the same design, whereas the B and earlier versions are different in the bolt body and won't interchange. Personally I would choose the C because it has a better trigger and finding a bolt might be easier
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Old 07-25-2019, 09:02 AM
dokey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Larry View Post
When Springfield Armory reworked their 22's or just upgraded them, they were again headspaced and renumbered. The old number was polished off. Most high quality rifle bolts are numbered to the rifle. Both centerfire and rimfire. Winchester started this policy back in the 20's. The older M52's did not have numbered bolts. Big Larry
Larry, my 4 digit Pre A's bolt is numbered to the gun
Pete
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Old 07-25-2019, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dokey View Post
C,D and E bolts are basically of the same design, whereas the B and earlier versions are different in the bolt body and won't interchange. Personally I would choose the C because it has a better trigger and finding a bolt might be easier
Pete, why is the C better...better quality, easier to modify?
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Old 07-25-2019, 09:48 AM
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I can't add much to this conversation other than to say that within the same model (C, D, E, etc.), Winchester had bolts categorized, or sorted, into three headspace dimensions. I don't know the actual terms Winchester used, but for our purposes, we could call them short, regular, and long. The bolts were then tried in the barreled receivers coming off the line, and if headspace was too tight, the next smaller bolt would be used; if headspace was too loose, the next size longer bolt would be used, and then the bolts would be numbered to the gun. So, there is usually a very good chance a bolt purchased separately would work and be right. In any case, it wouldn't be too far off, with the worst case being having a "short" receiver and the separately purchased bolt is "long", or vice versa. Statistically, you would more likely be only one step away from the proper headspace.

On which to purchase, I would also chose the "C" over the "B," because of the better MicroMotion trigger and the extra hardening on the "C" receiver.

TBR
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Old 07-25-2019, 10:20 AM
dokey
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+1 on TBR's post. I seem to see more C bolts than B's listed for sale on Ebay
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Old 07-25-2019, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dokey View Post
Larry, my 4 digit Pre A's bolt is numbered to the gun
Pete
I own #7001, with a stainless bbl. and the bolt is not numbered to the gun. I have seen and owned other early M52's with no number as well. I also have # 10281, and it has a numbered bolt. My # 22164 does have a numbered bolt too. Big Larry

Last edited by Big Larry; 07-25-2019 at 02:29 PM. Reason: add more info
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Old 07-25-2019, 01:31 PM
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I have S/N 17005 Pre-A Speedlock and the bolt is not numbered to the gun.
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Old 07-25-2019, 02:18 PM
Big Larry
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Originally Posted by joet333 View Post
I have S/N 17005 Pre-A Speedlock and the bolt is not numbered to the gun.
That may be a factory fluke, or the bolt has been changed, or maybe polished. Big Larry
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Old 07-25-2019, 02:38 PM
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There were actually 4 different bolt handle sizes used on the C,D,& E's. They were categorized by lengths from back of locking lug to front thrust surface of handle. They were .735", .737", .739" and .741". Tolerance on all was +0"/-.002", thus covering a range of .009". Nominal headspace was set at .043" for these models, and .045" +/- .001" on the B's.
Personally, I would rather have a replacement bolt with a bit more headspace, than overly tight, which puts undue stress on camming surfaces of bolt and body. If they are too tight, you can set them up on surface grinder and reduce thickness to adjust. If too loose, you need to make a shim to slip between bolt handle and body. I never cared for this method of adjustment, always seemed like a "band aid" approach.
The "B" bolt handles were only made in 1 size (long) and then ground to qualify.
Steve
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Old 07-25-2019, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Larry View Post
That may be a factory fluke, or the bolt has been changed, or maybe polished. Big Larry
Was the serial number engraved on the bolt body or on the handle?
I'll look at it with a high power magnifier.
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