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  #1  
Old 05-06-2019, 01:11 PM
flangster

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Do we have a definitive RFC thread on 457 bolt disassembly?



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I am looking to polish my striker pin, but my Google-Fu is failing me. Drift pin cross-wise in a zip lock baggie? Any hints appreciated.
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Old 05-06-2019, 01:34 PM
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Hey Flangster.. No need for baggies on this operation..lol

Here's a copy of what I've sent to a couple of forum members based on my experience. Let me know if you have any questions that I may have missed. I also have pictures of some of the possibly confusing steps.

After removing the bolt from the action, decock it.

Put the tail (or nose) of the bolt on something that will pad it and prevent it from slipping. I use an old folded pillow case, but a mouse pad, phone book or anything else will work.

While holding the bolt vertically by its nose (or tail) with one hand and the other end on a towel or whatever you want to pad it with, push down to compress the striker spring. While holding it down with one hand, use your other hand to push the pin out that goes through the tail of the bolt. I use an 1/8" punch, but a 16 penny nail or the like will work.

Once the pin is out, the tail of the bolt will seperate from the nose.

To get the striker out you'll have to remove the C-spring. It also holds the extractor and retainer in place. Make sure you note which side is which before removing the c-spring in case they fall out. If they get swapped your rifle will have ejection problems.

The get the C-spring off, I just use a small flat screwdriver to pry one side loose from the underside of the bolt. That part is really easy. Getting it back on is a little more difficult, but not much.

Once the C-spring is off, the striker slides right out along with the bolt handle.

To reassemble, simply reverse the process. Remember to slide the striker through the bolt handle before reattatching the C-spring. I forgot the first time I did this and have remembered every other time since.. Haha!

To get the C-spring back on, clip it in it's proper place on one side of the underside of the bolt. It will go around the bolt in its groove and come just shy of the holder or extractor depending on which way you started it. Now, if you have a dental pick, it's the best way to hook the end of the spring and pull it past the holder/extractor. I have also used a small flat screwdriver. You just need to get it past the extractor/holder. Once you do, while holding the C-spring in place, remove your tool and push the C-spring the rest of the way into position with your thumb. It will snap into place. You may have to coax it with the pick or screwdriver to get it to go all the way to home.

Now, you will just have to join the nose and tail pieces of the bolt back together. The trick here is to make sure that the bolt handle is in a "decocked" position in relation to the tail. The striker needs to line up with the groove on the underside of the bolt's tail. I attatched a picture to give you an idea. One you get it all lined up, compress it like you did to take it apart and reinsert the pin. It may take a little wiggling but it will finally seat. Once it does, you're done. Just lift the handle back into a cocked position and reinsert it into your action."

As a side note, the extractor, holder and c-spring clip are interchangeable with 455 parts in case anyone needs replacement parts. I stretched my c-spring when modifying my striker and had a few failure to ejects afterwards. I had a blued c-spring for a 455 and installed it. It's a hair tighter to get installed, but works perfectly.

Hope this helps you out.

Last edited by RickBaum; 05-06-2019 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 05-06-2019, 01:40 PM
flangster

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That's awesome Rick. STICKY!
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  #4  
Old 05-06-2019, 02:07 PM
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Here's some pics of the process..

The top pic is of the bolt out of the action. It is in a "cocked" position relative to the striker and striker spring. To "uncock" it, grab it with one hand just behind the bolt lever like in the middle picture. The with the other hand, push the handle down like you would if it were in the action and you were cocking it. This relieves tension on the striker spring which will allow you to get the pin out that holds the bolt halves together (among other things).

I'll post a few more posts of the remaining steps. I can only seem to get 3 pictures to post at a time due to their size and I'm better at physically fiddling with things than electronic stuff.
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File Type: jpg 20190415_150932.jpg (491.2 KB, 61 views)
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File Type: jpg 20190415_151056.jpg (494.0 KB, 56 views)
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Old 05-06-2019, 02:18 PM
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These pics just show the basic process of getting the pin out that holds the bolt halves together.

The critical things are the have the striker spring in an uncompressed state like I described. The other thing to remember is to put the bolt on end and compress the two halves together to get the pin out.

The top picture shows the pin that needs to come out.

The middle picture just shows the pin out and the punch used to push it out. I couldn't take a picture of me compressing the bolt and pushing the pin out without a third hand.

The third picture shows the two bolt halves apart. Notice that the bolt handle is still attached.. It can't come off without the striker, and the striker is held on by the
c-spring.

Next up... C-spring removal.
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File Type: jpg 20190415_151150.jpg (529.1 KB, 54 views)
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File Type: jpg 20190415_151231.jpg (493.0 KB, 49 views)
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Old 05-06-2019, 02:27 PM
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I just use a small flat bladed screwdriver to "unhook" one side of the C-spring. See the top picture. Just pry it gently to the side to get the little hook over the edge of the bolt body and it will slip right off.

The second picture just shows that once the C-spring has been removed, the captive striker and the bolt handle will slip off of the bolt body.

The bottom picture is just showing all the disassembled parts (short of the ejector and holder) ready for cleaning, polishing, reshaping or whatever you have planned.
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File Type: jpg 20190415_151434.jpg (531.6 KB, 46 views)
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Old 05-06-2019, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flangster View Post
That's awesome Rick. STICKY!
Thanks for this Mr. Baum.
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Old 05-06-2019, 02:38 PM
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Once done with your cleaning, polishing or reshaping, just reverse the previous steps to reassemble.

The top picture shows the two halves of the bolt ready to compress back together. Notice that the striker is in a position that lines up with the groove in the underside of the tail of the bolt. Also notice the position of the bolt handle relative to the striker. The striker is lined up with the deepest part of the bolt handle cam. If it weren't, I don't think you would be able to compress the two bolt halves together due to the need to compress the full length of the striker spring.

The bottom picture shows the bolt reassembled with the pin in place and the handle lifted. All ready to go back in the action.
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Old 05-06-2019, 02:43 PM
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Last picture..

This one is just showing side by side examples of the 457 and 455 C-springs and extractors for comparison.. They are interchangeable, just different finishes.

The 457 spring and extractor are on the bottom of both compared examples. They are the silver ones. The 455 parts are both the upper blued examples.

Good luck and I hope all this helps more than it confuses!

Rick
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Last edited by RickBaum; 06-02-2019 at 04:39 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-06-2019, 03:31 PM
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Donít be surprised if some of the plating flakes off the C retainer spring. Iíve had two pieces flake off mine on the underside so far and mine isnít the only one to do so. Iím just waiting for the CZ store to get the blued ones back in stock so I can replace it with one I wonít have to worry is going to cause a malfunction.
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Old 05-06-2019, 03:40 PM
Wayne Sihler
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Could a large C-clamp be used to compress the bolt ?Or would it be in the way of the pin removal ?
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Old 05-06-2019, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Sihler View Post
Could a large C-clamp be used to compress the bolt ?Or would it be in the way of the pin removal ?
I haven't tried using a C-clamp and I'm sure you'd still be able to get the pin in or out, but when the striker spring is "in a decocked state" like I described, it really doesn't take much effort to compress it how I described. I say try using a clamp... It may make things even easier. If so, please share.
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Old 05-06-2019, 06:03 PM
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Thanks for this Mr. Baum.
Happy to help Sir! I just hope it all makes sense. I'm not exactly what you would call a technical writer.
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Old 05-06-2019, 07:06 PM
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This is great sir. Thank you very much.
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Old 05-07-2019, 07:17 AM
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Great information.
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