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Old 02-27-2019, 08:07 AM
ammohog
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DIY Foul Out - Electrolysis Lead Removal



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This thread concerns questions about making, using, solutions for getting the lead out of .22 rimfire barrels. Would like to know about power supply, size of rubber corks, solutions that work the best, etc. Yes, I have been to youtube, and there are some that work, according to the videos. There seems to be a difference of opinion from solution type and even how to hookup the positive and negative connections. Any suggestions from members who have done it?
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Old 02-27-2019, 01:23 PM
thesandman
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Brother Ammohog; I would like to do this also. Talked with Normf on subject. You want .2 to .3 volts, George thought positive was on rod and neg on barrel. He had a store bought improved model. You also need lead acetate I believe. Been along time. But a search on RFC will help. Let us know what ya find. Ps. If hooked up backwards you will plate your barrel.

Last edited by thesandman; 02-28-2019 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 02-27-2019, 02:56 PM
ammohog
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I feel sure the positive is on the barrel, negative on the rod. :

https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn...aspx?lid=10710

Also, some interesting information here, worth reading:

http://www.ultimateyota.com/archive/...hp/t-7924.html

I did try cleaning an old GM Bull for a 10/22 using 1 part vinegar (5%), 1/2 part ammonia, 2 parts distilled water. All I could find at this time was a AA battery box for 2. Yikes! (I know I will get bashed for that!) Well, used it anyway. Steel rod, clips, 3M electric tape, from Ace Hardware. Ran it two sessions of 30 minutes each. Yes, there was brownish and black "stuff" on the rod. Cleaned barrel with a few wet patches of Shooters Choice, dry patch and then borescoped. There was still some black crud on the lands about 3 inches from the leade / chamber. Gave it 10 laps with a Dewey bronze brush and Shooters Choice. Borescoped again. All the black crud was gone. The lead streaks were gone. However, there was sill some lead in the edge on one groove about 3 inches from the chamber. I'm calling that a good start for the first time. I feel for sure there is a better solution than the one I used, and currently doing some research as time permits. It does appear the process did loosen the crud that showed up on the borescope and the bronze brush got the rest of it. In hindsight, I should have used some JB when I found the lead in the edge of a groove. It probably would have been easy to remove. Live and learn...AH

Edit: Used a regular 00 cork for the chamber with electrical tape stretched over. Couldn't find any hard rubber corks. It did slightly ooze a bit on the second spazm, but not too much. Any info on size of hard rubber corks? None that would fit at Lowes or Ace.

Last edited by ammohog; 02-27-2019 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 02-27-2019, 06:17 PM
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Before I started using the SS pins for cartridge case cleaning, and silencer baffle cleaning, I experimented with electrolysis to clean the baffles. It did work quite well, just needed constant monitoring to clean the buildup off the rod every 15 minutes or so. The pins are easier.

The plans for the unit I made is in the link below. Read carefully. This unit operates at a higher current level than the Outers Foul Out, and care must be taken. You can't forget and leave it running or you will etch the barrel.
The solution mentioned in the plans works for copper removal. Buy the Outers Lead Out solution for lead removal. Wear gloves. Lead acetate will absorb through the skin.

The SS rod is a welding rod, available from any welding supply store.
The rubber stoppers to plug the bore came from Lowes.
The solution can be injected into the muzzle with a livestock syringe from Tractor Supply.

http://www.frfrogspad.com/copclean.pdf

Here's a couple of pics of it in use on silencer baffles.


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Old 02-28-2019, 11:01 AM
ammohog
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The Outers Lead Removal Solution has moved to the land of Unobtainum. Just talked to the tech at Outers (about 10:55AM this morning), it was discontinued in 2013. What mixture / product would you recommend?

Last edited by ammohog; 02-28-2019 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 02-28-2019, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ammohog View Post
The Outers Lead Removal Solution has moved to the land of Unobtainum. Just talked to the tech at Outers (about 10:55AM this morning), it was discontinued in 2013. What mixture / product would you recommend?
Scroll down to post #10.

https://www.marlinowners.com/forum/h...us-recipe.html
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Old 03-01-2019, 11:14 PM
ammohog
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I have seen online folks using Borax, Windex, etc. - and of course the 1 part vinegar, one part ammonia, 2 parts distilled water mixture. I did try the Borax, but no soap. Thanks for the link for the original formula. I might try it after some more research. This first time was tried on a stainless barrel, if I have the same luck with a regular steel barrel, I won't be too upset. ........ AH
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Old 08-31-2019, 10:40 AM
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I have tried the sodium carbonate (aka Arm & Hammer) solution in distilled water (1 tsp to 1 cup). This was using the 1.5 volt using two AA batteries. Ran for 20 minutes with the barrel hooked up to the negative and the rod to the positive. (With this much voltage, this connection works the best.) This solution works very well for the transfer of lead to the rod, but also works well for the transfer of metal. Borescope verified. The first opinion here is the voltage absolutely needs to be less or down to the 3/10 volt like the Outers, and perhaps the solution should be weaker or different. This was using a steel rod. I now have two stainless rods, and next time a low cost barrel has a bad case of "groove full of lead" disease, the experiments will continue. Hopefully with better results. ........ AH

Last edited by ammohog; 08-31-2019 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:14 AM
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Fwiw: (I dont have nor ever used a 'foul out', this is general info)
Beware/check that whatever solution you use wont strip bluing. I once bought a Win High Wall that was badly streaked down barrel and action. I dont know what a p.o. was using for solution or method but do know they were trying to clean the bore.
Batteries-it is the voltage you want, battery size doesnt matter; ie, 1.5v is 1.5v regardless of being AAA or D cells, but the D cells will last LOTS longer. I buy most of my batteries at the 'dollar store', I usually prefer Alkaline but for this application the HD should work fine and be will be cheap enough to just use up (get a spare pack).
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Old 08-31-2019, 12:46 PM
ammohog
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Hi gcrank1: Checked the crown for any signs of bluing being removed, it appears the solution mentioned above did not do any damage / removing the blue. I am using the AA batteries, because it was the only battery pack hookup available at the time at Lowes when searching. It was in the "Hobby" drawer. Yes, I am using alkaline batteries. I now have the 308L stainless rods because of the low carbon / nickle content. There are other stainless rods available, but this choice seemed like a good decision at the time. I may be right, I might be wrong. Time will tell. ?? I feel sure the amount of sodium carbonate used has to be weakened to help prevent barrel metal transfer and still remove lead, at least that is my opinion at this time. Any opinions or practical experience will be greatly appreciated. ....... AH

PS: I de-greased the barrel with a few shots of non chlorinated brake cleaner and ran a few patches with it also. Patched dry before process. Yes, there was a great deal of lead removed from the grooves / lands according to the borescope.

Last edited by ammohog; 08-31-2019 at 01:10 PM. Reason: PS
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