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  #16  
Old 02-15-2019, 04:57 PM
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I'd try plugging the end or middle of the barrel letting it soak with bore cleaner and brushing it with it almost full of the cleaner
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  #17  
Old 02-15-2019, 05:44 PM
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I shot less than a box thru it because of the limited supply of ammo that came with it. It was shooting MOA+ @ 50yds before I put it away in favor of another for coyotes. I'm at least the 3rd owner and no idea of the round count. One of the previous owners was quite abusive of the wood and the front sight broken off, for what that's worth.
While a gunsmith nor a mechanic I be, I have read what a bear(sorry) fire hardened carbon can be to remove from car engine innards, mixed with the usual claims of soaking it in snake oil to only buffing it off with a wire wheel works, with a leaning more to the latter for truth of experience. This is my oldest rifle and the only not new to me one.
I'm all ears as one geezer rotator cuff is at least 50% torn via MRI and the already repaired other one is just as painful. I surely don't want to make em worse but this 5MM bore is stuck in my craw.
Had one repaired that was said to be a "Partial" tear, was nearly a full tear. Therapy after surgery is a test of pain tolerance. It really doesn't matter how much of a tear it is.
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  #18  
Old 02-15-2019, 06:30 PM
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Had one repaired that was said to be a "Partial" tear, was nearly a full tear. Therapy after surgery is a test of pain tolerance. It really doesn't matter how much of a tear it is.
I tore mine completely loose and one of the two bicep tendons badly enough he just snipped it loose. I was almost 4 mo. in a sling not counting therapy after the sling was gone. I have screws still in the shoulder for that one.Needless to say I'm not gonna rip this one apart just for a rifle bore.

Several of the 24 hr. soaks were with the bore plugged and partially filled M92.
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  #19  
Old 02-15-2019, 07:05 PM
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I meant brushing with liquid cleaner and plug in the barrel with the brass brush to try push cleaner into the carbon to loosen ,it what is your plan for lapping it?
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  #20  
Old 02-15-2019, 08:09 PM
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Al is there any way you could try fire lapping? I'm not sure how you would coat the loaded ammo but if possible this might help clean the carbon up. Maybe a call to the Final Finish products would yield some answers. Fire lapping has resurrected a number of centerfire rifles for me.
Good luck.
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Old 02-16-2019, 10:25 AM
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I meant brushing with liquid cleaner and plug in the barrel with the brass brush to try push cleaner into the carbon to loosen ,it what is your plan for lapping it?
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Al is there any way you could try fire lapping?
Poor man's bubba bore lapping:
I have a Brownells' kit with 8 varieties of carbide grit paste from 100ish up to 800 grit for lapping/polishing that I've used in the past for cf bore lapping with a tight patch/plug and rod with a slotted patch tip to polish out copper grabbing but accurate rifles. The trick with a patch vs the lead for lapping is not to pull the patch out of the bore so the imprint of the grooves and lands remain the same on the patch. Fresh paste is added via rod and patch or swab from the muzzle end. Your mileage will vary
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  #22  
Old 02-16-2019, 07:42 PM
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Al the bullets are coated with aluminum oxide of different grades and then fired as opposed to using your arm. Normal procedure is you use the bullets when hand loading your rounds. David Tubb used to offer coated bullets for rimfire applications so he may have some thoughts regarding your issues.
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  #23  
Old 02-16-2019, 08:41 PM
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Al the bullets are coated with aluminum oxide of different grades and then fired as opposed to using your arm. Normal procedure is you use the bullets when hand loading your rounds. David Tubb used to offer coated bullets for rimfire applications so he may have some thoughts regarding your issues.
Thanks. I knew about the 'final finish' rounds and how they work.
I had thought about putting a thin layer of my carbide paste in the first inch or two, shoot, repeat, etc.. For now I have no where to shoot for a few months as we are in a sturdy winter in progress aka lots n lots of snow. Today we just got finally caught up with snow removal, again.
The lands are still sharp throughout the bore but only the first 2 inches or so are burnished bright silver.
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Old 02-16-2019, 10:45 PM
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I am a Firm believer in Wipe-Out products their Carb-Out should do the trick

Good Luck

Jim
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  #25  
Old 02-16-2019, 11:55 PM
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I'll see if I can find some. I take it you've tried it on fire hardened carbon?
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Old 02-18-2019, 02:50 PM
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Any updates on the lapping?
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  #27  
Old 02-18-2019, 04:00 PM
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Any updates on the lapping?
Almost started but...chores and relocating fresh snow won out again. When I get to it I'm gonna cheat a bit this time and go to a heavier grit than I've used in the past as I want to remove metal in the first couple inches of the leade.
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  #28  
Old 02-18-2019, 04:45 PM
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Temperature may be a factor with the solvents. I put the seafoam in a engine ran it for 300 miles and changed the oil today, the burnt on the dip stick wiped right off the stuff wouldn't buff on with a fine wire wheel on the bench grinder.
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  #29  
Old 02-18-2019, 06:32 PM
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You might try Mercury (outboard) Power Tune Internal Engine Cleaner. It removes carbon from two cycle engines. Similar to Seafoam but with better results.
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  #30  
Old 02-18-2019, 11:11 PM
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I've used a heat gun with the barrel in an aluminium pipe to treat other bores with MollyFusion but, keeping the temps from smoking the patch inserted into the bore was a bit iffy.
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