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  #31  
Old 06-06-2013, 12:18 PM
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This is a freaking awesome idea. Great work!
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  #32  
Old 06-06-2013, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by majorpandemic View Post
This is a freaking awesome idea. Great work!
Thanks! When I think about it, you are someone who can definitely use these types of tools with the number of rifles that you test and sheer volume of range trips you must make in testing them for your articles.

DrGunner
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  #33  
Old 06-06-2013, 02:24 PM
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Thanks! When I think about it, you are someone who can definitely use these types of tools with the number of rifles that you test and sheer volume of range trips you must make in testing them for your articles.

DrGunner
Yes. I generally replace my bore snakes about every other month. Ingenious idea that I will steal.
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  #34  
Old 06-06-2013, 02:28 PM
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Yes. I generally replace my bore snakes about every other month. Ingenious idea that I will steal.
Thou cannot steal that which is given freely!

Shoot straight!

DrG
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  #35  
Old 06-16-2013, 12:17 PM
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Warning about the Brushsnake!!!



SOME OF THESE BRUSHSNAKES WILL BREAK IF THE BORE IS TOO TIGHT!!!! It helps immensely to put the Brushsnake into the bore as if you plan to pull it, THEN PUSH IT THROUGH FROM BEHIND WITH A ROD FOR A FEW PASSES TO SET THE BRISTLES.

If yours breaks, PM me and I will replace it with a preconditioned/tested one.

DrGunner
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  #36  
Old 07-14-2013, 09:59 PM
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ditto DRG thanks
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  #37  
Old 08-08-2013, 05:17 PM
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This web site neve ceases to amaze!

What an excellent write up and idea.

For the Gunner chamber brush , ever try a brass rod or are there none available the right size? Also in the beginning what is/are the fluffy looking things, mops?

Never mind post in #1 looks like fuzzy pipe cleaners to hold the coils?
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  #38  
Old 08-08-2013, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by OCD View Post
This web site neve ceases to amaze!

What an excellent write up and idea.

For the Gunner chamber brush , ever try a brass rod or are there none available the right size? Also in the beginning what is/are the fluffy looking things, mops?
Yes, I have used brass many times in the past and it works better than aluminum, but usually costs more. And yes to your second question those are 22 caliber chamber mops.

DrGunner
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  #39  
Old 08-31-2013, 12:50 PM
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Will your bush and patch snakes fit (work) for a Ruger MII or Benchmark pistol?

In other words are the female fittings and the attached brush or slotted jag short enough to fit into the chamber to pull though.

I tried a Otis cable system and they would not work in a 10/222 or a MII .
I guess they have a smaller kit now that may??

Thanks
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  #40  
Old 08-31-2013, 07:27 PM
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Will your bush and patch snakes fit (work) for a Ruger MII or Benchmark pistol?

In other words are the female fittings and the attached brush or slotted jag short enough to fit into the chamber to pull though.

I tried a Otis cable system and they would not work in a 10/222 or a MII .
I guess they have a smaller kit now that may??

Thanks
Did you mean Buckmark, not benchmark? The only gum that I know of that is called a benchmark is a 1911 made by Springfield. My brush and jagsnake work fine on my 1022's, my Buckmark, and my friends Ruger Mark II.

It is not about female "attachments"- the brushes are drilled and the trimmer line is roughed up and glued in. Same with the jags. You can shorten the jags somewhat for really small ejection ports, but not the brushes.


Bear in mind, you have to use the Otis pistol brushes that are featured in a link on Amazon earlier in this thread...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040J...g-goods&sr=1-1

DrGunner
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  #41  
Old 08-31-2013, 08:08 PM
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Yes I meant Buckmark, not the Bourbon. Guess you meant gun not gum

Tough getting old and not being able to tipe or spel


Yes, I see that now, you have eliminated the "female" fitting, which makes it much shorter.



The Official Otis Tactical Kit will not fit the 10/22 or any small gun even small 9mm and 45 ACP

I have Otis brushes I bought on sale and they are shorter than the ones in the expensive kit

I have made and still have string trimmer snakes for a patch only. Not as nice as yours though. I wanted tto try the Otis kit so I could use it for all rifles and handguns (center fire and rimfire) I do not mind cleaning my handguns but rifles are a pain even though I have nice Tipton carbon fiber rods.

Think I will try to make some thin aircraft cable (like Otis) Maybe with gluing the stainless cable to the brass brush with epoxy???

Do you make.use yours for bigger center fire calibers?

Living in Florida I do have lots of .095 trimmer line!!
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  #42  
Old 08-31-2013, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by OCD View Post
Think I will try to make some thin aircraft cable (like Otis) Maybe with gluing the stainless cable to the brass brush with epoxy???
Let me know how that works for you- I'm always interested in new ways to do things- my concern there would be the adherence between the SS cable, brass and epoxy. I found that trimmer line works best- and you can buy bigger diameter line than .095"- I use it because it strikes a balance between strength and size- strong enough to hold against tension with a tight button/patch, while still being small enough to hone into a point that doesn't ream too big a hole in the patch. If the line is too big, the button will pull right out of the patch.

Quote:
Do you make.use yours for bigger center fire calibers?
Yes, I do- I have made them in .300, 7mm, 7.62/.308, and 9mm so far.
It's a matter of holding the button on the soldering iron longer... You have to work slowly and let the material melt, resisting the urge to "push feed" the trimmer line into the soldering iron. I have tried MANY brands of trimmer line. BY FAR, the green stuff - Round Gatorline-made by Oregon is the best.
I've seen it as big as .155", and have considered ordering some for making larger buttons and for attaching to bigger jags and brushes for the CF stuff, but haven't done so yet.

Amazon sells 50 foot spools of the .095" that I use for $6.32:

http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-69-175-...orline+.095%22



Hope this helps-

DrGunner
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  #43  
Old 08-31-2013, 11:53 PM
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Thanks,

For the cable, soldering would be best but trying to solder SS to brass would be tricky. I also thought about heavy copper wire with insulation. It would take a while for the solvents to mess up the copper..

For heavy duty fishing I have leader wire that is crimped with sleeves and a crimp tool, just another thought, The sleeves might scratch but Perhaps crimp the wire to the brass brush or jag??
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  #44  
Old 09-01-2013, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCD View Post
Thanks,

For the cable, soldering would be best but trying to solder SS to brass would be tricky. I also thought about heavy copper wire with insulation. It would take a while for the solvents to mess up the copper..

For heavy duty fishing I have leader wire that is crimped with sleeves and a crimp tool, just another thought, The sleeves might scratch but Perhaps crimp the wire to the brass brush or jag??
The trimmer line works fine for me, although when the brush is new, Especially small calibers like 22, there is extreme resistance the first time you pull a brush through the bore. It is only at this time that I have experienced failure where the trimmer line pulls out of the brush The simple fix – take the edge of a round shafted tool of any kind and run along the bristles to angle them backward and condition them. Now, I simply affix the brushes to a rod and pull them through a barrel a couple of times before fabricating the brush snakes. I have made dozens of them, and so far they are holding their own. When you rough up the trimmer line with the edge of the razor, and use very thin/watery cyanomethacrylate glue and brass shod brushes, the bond is incredibly strong.

So- for my own purposes, it ain't broke, so I see no need to fix it- My main purpose in designing these with trimmer line and a tapered and polished brush was to avoid damaging the bore with sharp edges from steel cable or crimped fittings. It's important to create a concentric tool that won't angulate/deviate, and will essentially stay centered when pulled through.
I suppose if you were to use a mechanical crimp like those used for electrical cables, it might work just fine. The only issue I can foresee and perhaps warn you about is the order of operation in fabricating the brushes. You have to drill the hole, taper the head, and polish it before affixing the line if you want a smooth fixture that will pass through the bore without gouging anything. Once the cable is affixed, you can debur it some, But trying to shape and/or polish it with a coated wire or cable will be difficult to do without damaging the housing on the cable. So if you go that route, make sure that everything is shaped, tapered, and polished before you go to do any crimping.

DrGunner
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  #45  
Old 09-01-2013, 10:43 AM
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Not at all detracting from your fine work. As I said earlier I think it is amazing!

I guess that's why I still use a rod and brushes

Only other question is when the brush wears out you have to make a whole new assembly? Or one for every caliber. You have it down to a science and can probably make hundreds , mere mortals such as myself are not as talented and are lazy
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