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  #16  
Old 10-18-2016, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broc View Post
Beautiful gun! I'd love to hear more about how you finished the stock. I have an unfinished maple and can't quite decide how I want to finish it. I'd love to keep it blonde like yours.
The stock was made by Mike AKA RFC member "Mkling", so I would address your stock questions to him I have 3 Mkling stocks, and all are superb!
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  #17  
Old 10-19-2016, 02:04 PM
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I have a soft spot for maple stocks and have CZ 527 in .22 Hornet that is almost unbelievable in it's accuracy. Like easy 1/2" groups @ 100 yards and many 3/8" groups! It has me thinking the last 1/8" is a combination of the heavy cross hairs in the APV scope and the guy steering the rifle. Pilot error you know?!

One thing I really like about the the maple stocks is that they are so darn HARD! MUCH harder than walnut for instance. Several times I have bumped the rifle on a door jam or a shooting bench and thought "Oh no my beautiful stock has to have a mark on it now!" NO MARK! Because of this my appreciation of maple stocks has gone from "I like the way they look" to "I like the near indestructible nature of them!"

Have you sent the bolt back to have the maker for checking yet? I am very interested in this. Have you measured the headspace? In case you do not know the headspace on a 10/22 is the depth of the pocket in the chamber end of the bolt. Best way is a depth micrometer but not many people that do not build engines or rifles have one.

Assuming that you have a caliper you can use it. Just open the caliper and then close it by pushing the end opposite the read out down on to a flat service and the "zero" it by pushing the zero button on a digital caliper or by twisting the the cover over the dial. After that comes the fun part.....

I made a career in Quality Control and had a small side business building Kart racing engines and built somewhere between 10-15 VW Type One (old style air cooled "Bug") engines so I have a large drawer full of measuring stuff and having spent all of my adult life using the stuff. I say this because it can be a little frustrating using this method but not bad. Because I do not trust this method as well (not because it does not work but because it is easy to make mistakes) as a depth mic I usually make at least 5 measurements and after throwing out any obvious error I average the rest of the measurements. I also do this because a caliper is normally a +/- .001" calibration. A micrometer is +/- .0001" to .0005" calibration depending on the manufacturer. So, in theory a depth micrometer is either twice as good to 10 times as good.

The "interesting" part is the person doing it......after zeroing your caliper open it up to have about .100" showing in the readout (the exact amount does not mean anything as long as it is over .070. Then place the pointy rod on the skinny end of the caliper in the headspace pocket in the end of the bolt and push the caliper down as straight as possible until the bottom of the caliper body is flush with the end of the bolt. Check your readout. The bottom spec for the 22lr is .043" but these days a number of people go tighter than spec and here is where you problem may be! Randy @ CPC told me the following:

Quote:
SAAMI L.R. headspace gages are .043 GO, .050 NO GO and cost about $60...
I sell a more useful set .0425 Go, .045 NO GO for $11 shipped...
Can be ordered by sending in $11 or calling in order with credit card #...
This was 2009 so price may have changed or he may not even sell them:

I know some people are going less than .0425 but if you do you start to risk "slam fires" which is what you are getting. PLEASE REMEMBER THAT LETTING THE BOLT SLAM FORWARD W/O MAGAZINE INSTALLED ON ANY 1O/22, REGARDLESS OF HEADSPACE, CAN BE DANGEROUS. AT LEAST 3 OR 4 RFC MEMBERS HAVE BEEN INJURED OVER THE YEARS WHEN A CASE LET GO AND THE CASE METAL, POWDER PARTICLES AND HOT GASES IN BEDDED IN THEIR HAND OR ARM!!

LET ME SAY THIS AGAIN, NEVER LOAD OR FIRE A 10/22 W/O MAG!! DO YOU THINK I MAY HAVE A STRONG OPINION ON THIS? IF YOU THOUGHT "YES" THAN GOOD!!

I did a good bit of testing when I headspaced and pinned my first two bolts and if there was an accuracy difference between .045" and .0425" I could not consistently find it! I set mine between .043 and .045 and was good to go. My most accurate 10/22 is set at .044".

Sorry for the long post but I thought it was important to get the safety part out and the rest I hope is helpful.
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Last edited by Vincent; 10-19-2016 at 02:22 PM.
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  #18  
Old 11-20-2016, 08:24 AM
rth1959rth
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Good post Vincent! I did not know about the safety issues of firing the 10/22 sans mag. Hope you are doing better with your medical/prescription issues.

Manford Trens, keep us posted on the results of your bolt findings. IMHO it has to be a headspace problem or a firing pin protrusion or a combination of both.
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  #19  
Old 11-23-2016, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by rth1959rth View Post
Good post Vincent! I did not know about the safety issues of firing the 10/22 sans mag. Hope you are doing better with your medical/prescription issues.

Manford Trens, keep us posted on the results of your bolt findings. IMHO it has to be a headspace problem or a firing pin protrusion or a combination of both.

Would be my first two guesses as well.
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  #20  
Old 11-23-2016, 01:23 PM
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scrub..scrub.. then scrub the chamber.. that blow out looks like un-supported NOT in battery.. also, the fact you are getting lite strikes AND bolt slam ignitions says dirty chamber.
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  #21  
Old 12-01-2016, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaser View Post
scrub..scrub.. then scrub the chamber.. that blow out looks like un-supported NOT in battery.. also, the fact you are getting lite strikes AND bolt slam ignitions says dirty chamber.
That is the most common reason OOBD but because of the description of the problem I am not as sure about this as I would usually be. Always a possibility though.

It would ALWAYS be the first thing to do in ANY OOBD that is certain.
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  #22  
Old 12-02-2016, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaser View Post
scrub..scrub.. then scrub the chamber.. that blow out looks like un-supported NOT in battery.. also, the fact you are getting lite strikes AND bolt slam ignitions says dirty chamber.
Chaser! I appreciate the help, but these were not lite strikes in the conventional sense in that the hammer did not fall (I removed it for proving purposes). Rather, the firing pin was marking the primer when the bolt was dropped on an already chambered round, and the rim edge was being crushed by the bolt itself, causing the round to fire IN battery. During the test, the chamber was clean, and the rounds were inserted easily and fully by hand. I was trying to compare the effect of the JWH bolt VS OEM bolt, and while the JWH bolt produced this worrisome discharge, an OEM bolt assy did not.

As mentioned earlier, Vincent's tip about the magazine seemed to be key - having a mag in place prevented the JWH bolt from crushing the rim and firing the round. I did not like the continued firing pin strikes, however, so we just run an OEM bolt in her gun now

As for how the JWH system can allow the firing pin to hit the primer merely from bolt-closing momentum, I do not know. It still bothers me to know that if I chamber a live round and let the bolt slip, my MapleSport Heavy gun might fire, but this is a scenario that doesn't really happen during use; I insert a full mag, shoot all the rounds, and never really have cause to load the chamber manually.

Thanks again for all your help, folks, your comradeship and wisdom are deeply appreciated!
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  #23  
Old 12-02-2016, 02:29 PM
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Have you removed and compared the JWH, and OEM firing pin ?
I would measure overall length, and the distance from the step where the spring contacts the pin, to the front tip. I would also compare the springs. Just for curiosity, while I had them apart, I would weigh the bolts.
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