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  #16  
Old 12-10-2010, 11:22 AM
ultramag44
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Rich,
Don't try to clamp the crack shut. Doing that will set up addtionL stress in the wood.

Just tape off any area you don't want glue on. Pour in the glue and let it dry well before sanding the area smooth.
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  #17  
Old 12-10-2010, 11:33 AM
SCRich
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Yea when looking at it this morning I was thinking about that, initially I thought some surgical tubing and glue but now a fill would probably be best. BUT the crack is so small, I may need to use some of the very thin CA glue instead of gorilla glue. This is a poor pic with my camera phone this AM but you can get an idea, looks the same on the opposing side. Must be cracked right thru.

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  #18  
Old 12-10-2010, 11:52 AM
ultramag44
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Rich, Yes, artic birch is known for cracking or checking as it dries out. Also, the thick coat of cheap varnish the Russians slopped on didn't do the wood any favors either!

As you noted, the cracks are usually small. Once glued, the problem is usually solved. Another trick is to drill a tiny hole about 1/4 Inc deep @ either end of the crack. The hole will stop future cracking in that spot.
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  #19  
Old 12-10-2010, 12:03 PM
SCRich
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Any suggestions for a good THIN glue? CA is thin but I think it will soak into the wood and even after sanding the area the stain will not take to the "glue infected" area since the glue will be deep into the flesh. Gorilla is strong but thick, doubt it would sink deep into the crack and it foams out like expanding foam making a mess, but I think something like Gorilla would not soak into the grain/flesh of the wood very well allowing me to sand and stain the area.

Is there any glue out there that is stainable ? If it's going to look poor I'll probably just end up doing a paint instead of stain job.
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  #20  
Old 12-10-2010, 02:24 PM
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Can you get a syringe? I would recommend CA as my glue of choice, but I apply it with a very fine syringe to minimize the application on the face of the wood you want to finish.

Given the weight of the rifle, and the fact that the crack goes through the stock, I'd probably put a dowel through the grip, if you get it nicely centered and align it, while noticeable, it won't look bad.
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  #21  
Old 12-10-2010, 05:21 PM
SCRich
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A pin was already applied to the grip, apparently this was done at the factory since it seems to be a common problem, is that correct? It seems like a factory job. Thanks for the tip on the syringe, never thought of it, don't know how CA works in it, guess I'll have to load it with a lot to make it come out and waste some but it should work. I am having several hand delivered to me tonight.. nice when you can call you wife at work and ask for something "special" like that! LOL She is bringing me some insulin ones, she saw the crack and thinks that's the only thing that will work, they are short but very fine. As you can see it's not a huge gap, hopefully I can get something deep in there.





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  #22  
Old 12-12-2010, 09:33 PM
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First of all, I tried to post on this the other night when you first put up your pics and my computer crashed (again) before I could hit the post button.
#1. As someone else said already, pretty is as pretty does.
#2. Stay away from cheap ammo and especially HV. Get Wolf MT or SK Std + at the very least to get a grasp of what this rifle is capable of. I shot a 1596 in a 1600 point match with mine using Lapua CenterX and the four 9's were not the fault of the rifle.
Good luck on the repair. https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=357483
A good rule of thumb for doing a crack repair is to do it BEFORE stripping the finish. I prefer liquid hide glue because of the long working time and easy clean up. Know how you are going to close the crack before you start with the glue. I'm guessing I would pre drill for a screw and use the screw as the clamp. After the glue has set up you can remove the screw and drill for a long dowel and epoxy the dowel in. In place of a dowel when repairing broken piano legs I will sometimes use a piece of threaded rod.

Last edited by Charlotte; 12-12-2010 at 09:47 PM.
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  #23  
Old 12-13-2010, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlotte View Post
Charlotte, I just STICKIED your stock repair reference.
Please Look! Remington 513-T Stock Repair (After) ... Cracked Stock Repair
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  #24  
Old 12-14-2010, 08:27 AM
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Many opinions on how to glue this

stock. Here is another one. These stocks are somewhat unstable from my dealings with them. ( I have 8 of them ) They seem to expand and contract more than other woods I have worked with. Much of this is due to weather, heat/cold/ humidity but I that is above my pay grade....

I have used white glue, wood glue and several epoxy types. The best long term result has been heating the stock and working the glue into the crack by clamping in a vice and push and pull until glue "sucks" into the crack until crack is full. I learned this trick when I worked for Browning firearms.... Superposed rebuilding.

For the intrepid, wood screw used from two directions after epoxied, let dry, insert dowel into screw hole, sand flush. I have not had a crack reappear using this method with screws, but have with the other methods....... very aggravating. I think my stocks just have a bad attitude sometimes!

Whatever works is the way to go...but finding what works is the trick.

ret

Last edited by RET; 12-14-2010 at 02:16 PM.
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  #25  
Old 12-28-2010, 06:38 PM
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Well I have had a few days during my vacation to work on the stock. I have worked the CA glue well into the crack from the back forward and given it a light sanding. What I am running into is dark spots now on the stock that do not seem to come out. Any suggestions, I have read something about making a whitting paste to pull out the grease but I am not 100% sure it's grease/oil.

1st step was removing the bulk of the varnish with Purple Power, we have waited about a month or so and now done the glue on Sunday.Yesterday I did some more light sanding of any varnish that was visible and dusted.

Today using laquer thinner on paper towel I was able to get some light brown coloring off the stock, I guess it's a bit of the varnish that's inside the grain but my dark spots is not varnish. I am going to attach some photos. Do I need to sand more? I don't want to overdo it, I just want to clean it up then stain. We all know the basics of painting (and stain) your final product is only as good as what you start with! I don't want my stained product to have uneven dark spots here and there because I did not remove all the spots I COULD have.

I have a small hand held steam cleaner that I plan on using to pull up a few dents and sharp cuts, will that help lighten the darker wood? I just don't want to use a lot of liquid on this wood considering all the reports of how unstable it is. I have steamed the HECK out of some 1903 and Garand stocks and actually washed them in a tub with no problems but this Russian one worries me.









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  #26  
Old 01-12-2011, 05:52 PM
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cracking wrist???

do you think that it is possible that all the wet, and rinsing in the shower, and drying with a blower and over a vent all night streased the wood a bit and that's when it cracked?
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  #27  
Old 01-12-2011, 06:33 PM
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I think it's a common problem with these stocks. There is a steel rod going thru the handgrip, which I can only assume was put there to resolve an issue, and the only issue I could see that attempting to resolve would be to keep the gun together if the wrist cracks. I don't know if the rod makes the issue better or worse, but based on all of the research I've done and uncracked stock is the exception and not the rule.
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  #28  
Old 01-14-2011, 06:54 AM
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my cm2 stock had a lot of very cracks that were glued shut then put some
sawdust filler on top. really have to look hard to see. on my ural i sanded and
sanded and still had dark spots bleeding through. a friend who does stocks
and woodwork said he sees that sometimes when oil bleeds through from the
inside, he advised me to just use a dark stain to blend it in with and on my ural
i thought it came out pretty nice, i finished it with watco walnut stain, then
truoil some light coats then one last heavy coat.

i'm happy with it.

Last edited by tom c.; 01-14-2011 at 07:00 AM.
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  #29  
Old 01-17-2011, 12:41 AM
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Get some Brownells Accu Glass and spread the crack as wide as possible without breaking it and blow it in with a hair drier, then clamp it until dry, 24 hours.
If the crack is in a place with stress, better to drill a small hole and put a dowel covered with accu glass in all the way through the stock.
It may leave a small mark where the dowel is, but it's better than having it crack again.

John K
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  #30  
Old 01-17-2011, 08:47 AM
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Has anyone removed the metal rod that the factory put in? I have a rifle that is broken clear through in two pieces and held together only by the metal rod.
I just bought a air powered palm nailer and I thinking using that to viberate the metal rod out so I can get a tight repair. Then replace the rod.
Any thoughts.
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