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Old 12-01-2008, 07:24 AM
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John Picher's Extractor Tuning



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Submitted By: Picher

These pictures outline John Picher's method for fitting your extractor to your bolt better. The results have virtually eliminated all stovepipe jams from our rifles.

Please attempt these modifications at your own risk, your results may vary. Please direct any questions to John.

Customized 10-22s with minimum headspace milled bolt faces sometimes have lots of stovepipe jams. These jams are caused by the rim of the shell slipping out of the bolt recess, due to excess play between the cartridge recess face and the extractor hook. The cure is to reduce the distance by shortening the effective length of the extractor as described on the next 3 pages.

The original extractor would not hold a round by itself, the extractor was not even touching the rim.

(Click On Thumbs For Larger View)


Remove the extractor by using a hook tool to pull the plunger back from the bolt face and tip the extractor out by pressing inward on the hook, or by using a pair of pliers to lift it out.

The brand new Ruger extractor measured 0.533 inches long.

Clamp the rear portion of the extractor in a vise with the hook upward. Using an acetylene or propane torch, heat the forward end of the extractor to a dull red color.

While it is still red, strike the end with a hammer to bend the hook down about 10-15 degrees. Let cool and remove from the vise.

Note: This picture doesn't show the extractor being red, it was difficult to heat, hammer, and take pictures all at the same time, but understand that the hammering should be done while the part is red hot.

File the peened projections at the front end flat with the sides of the extractor so it fits into the bolt slot without binding.

Here you can see what we are trying to achieve with the above heating and beating. The original extractor is shown on the left, the one we just modified is on the right.

Re-install the extractor into the bolt using the reverse of the removal process. Check to see how the extractor fits into the slot. If hammered properly, there won’t be enough clearance to allow the hook to reach past the bolt face at the location nearest the slot.
  #2  
Old 12-02-2008, 12:19 PM
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John Picher's Extractor Tuning

Submitted By: Picher

When it just doesn't fit, remove the extractor and set it into a vise with the end downward, and with the vertical surface adjacent to the hook slightly tipped toward the hook. Leave a little of the inside face the hook, projecting several thousandths of an inch above the jaws of the vise.

Stone the portion of the hook above the jaws level with the top of the vise jaws. That will result in a flat surface that is perpendicular to the sides of the extractor and at a slightly smaller interior angle than 90 degrees to the long inside straight portion of the extractor. Even 90 degrees is fine, but the hook shouldn’t be greater than a 90 degree angle from the long inside straight surface.

Next, re-install the extractor to see if it clears the face of the bolt at the slot. If it just clears, it should be just the right length.

Now, put the extractor in the vise and square the end of the hook up and make a slight flat spot that will be parallel to the shell casing.

Usually, the inside straight face of the extractor must be filed back to create more travel for the extractor to press the shell against the opposite side of the recess. This can be done by clamping the extractor in the vise again with that surface sticking up above the face of the jaws. Using a small file, remove an amount of metal that appears to be the same needed at the hook end to press the shell aginst the opposite side of the bolt recess. The main thing to be careful about is the corner where the inside hook surface meets the inside long straight surface. That corner should be left as a fillet (inside rounded junction) for strength.

The nose of the extractor should be filed back to allow the hook portion to contact shell rims without interference. The portion of the extractor that should touch the barrel in the extractor cut is the outside of the nose, very close to the hook.. The idea is to have the angle of the outside closely match what it looked like before the hook was bent.

Here is where some trial fitting and extra filing will be necessary to get the proper fit. Take a live round and see how it fits in the bolt recess and under the extractor. The extractor should hold it at the junction of the rim and case body. It should press the shell against the opposite side of the bolt recess with little overtravel. Notice that the cartridge is being held entirely by the extractor, no need to hold your finger on the round to keep it in place.

After the extractor is well fitted, by trial and error, it’s time to case harden the tip to prevent wear. A product called Kasenit, available from Brownell’s is the best material I’ve used. The instructions are written on the can and they are nearly foolproof.

Clamp the rear of the extractor in a pair of vice grips or hold it with pliers. Hold the extractor nose in the hottest part of the flame until it’s bright red. The beginner tends to not heat the part as much as necessary before dipping into the material.

Dip the part into the Kasenit and attempt to “spoon” some of it onto the extractor.
Re-heat the part until the Kasenit becomes bubbly, then dip it into the mixture again. This time, a nice heavy coating should adhere to it.

WARNING: ****The bubbly molten stuff can fall off the extractor when heating, there should be a non-combustible surface under it.****

Re-heat a longer period of time than was necessary for the part to turn red without the coating. The material will cause a bright orange flame around the part. After heating for about a full minute or so and after the material has really bubbled and boiled around the part, quench it quickly in cold, clean water. Move the part around in the water to cool it quickly.
  #3  
Old 12-02-2008, 12:30 PM
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John Picher's Extractor Tuning

Submitted By: Picher

After heating for about a full minute or so and after the material has really bubbled and boiled around the part, quench it quickly in cold, clean water. Move the part around in the water to cool it quickly.

Scrape some of the coating off with your fingers, then reheat and repeat the process once more.

The part, after the second quenching and cleaning should look gray, about like a galvanized bolt.

Clean off the part well and polish it. Now it won’t wear out and will function almost forever. The process shown here is accomplished with a felt tip and a Dremel tool.

Reinstall your tuned extractor, have fun shooting stovepipe free, and above all else, SHOOT SAFE!

JOHN
 

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