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  #31  
Old 10-20-2019, 05:42 PM
kseatm
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Originally Posted by 'ol shooter View Post
Lucky me, my youngest graduated with her Masters a couple years ago, I've been medically retired since 1999. Lucky you, your wife is tolerant of "that other woman" in your life, even if she is a rifle.
Best to you and yours.
Good for her! My oldest finished up this spring and is now sorting out his plan to get his Masters paid for by his employer. The youngest just got an offer upon graduation, but he is trying to get them to pay for his Masters as part of his acceptance. Both are lucky in that they are in STEM fields, so the potential is there for some nice careers.

My wife is happy whenever I'm not bothering her. For some reason, she thinks I act like a goober...personally not seeing it. But, she doesn't mind me messing with guns that much. Since I left Benchrest, I'm around a lot more. Which maybe is why she keeps telling me to find another hobby?

You've been retired for awhile! My issue is that I'm wondering what I'm going to do to fill my time. I can get myself in a bind when I have free time on my hands. Usually ends up being a funny story though...

Might come hang out on RFC again. There are only so many crazy russian driver videos on youtube.

Kenny
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  #32  
Old 10-20-2019, 09:22 PM
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My wife is happy whenever I'm not bothering her. For some reason, she thinks I act like a goober...personally not seeing it. But, she doesn't mind me messing with guns that much.
Kenny
Our wives might be spiritual twins, or maybe it's just a "feminine trait".

I'm pretty infirm physically, so just keeping up with normal household repairs is plenty for me. Now and then I summon the strength to actually clean a few guns and load a few rounds. Don't get out to the range much, my son is in Physicians Assistant school and he is my shooting companion. Might be able to shoot more next year when he's finished, except now he has a baby in transit.
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  #33  
Old 11-12-2019, 01:45 PM
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I'm starting to think these Kimber 82G's got a bad wrap. The two I own are extremely accurate. They both like to be fired several sighter shots before beginning a 5 shot group. Thus far, the Lapua Midas+ is the most accurate ammo.
I haven't really tried to do anything serious with the Eley Tennx as yet.
I've been looking for some Wolf Match made in Germany, hard to find.
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  #34  
Old 11-15-2019, 09:33 AM
kseatm
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Originally Posted by BobW. View Post
I'm starting to think these Kimber 82G's got a bad wrap. The two I own are extremely accurate. They both like to be fired several sighter shots before beginning a 5 shot group. Thus far, the Lapua Midas+ is the most accurate ammo.
I haven't really tried to do anything serious with the Eley Tennx as yet.
I've been looking for some Wolf Match made in Germany, hard to find.
Every barrel is different, almost every person cleans differently (technique, frequency, solutions and equipment used). So, not about to say do this or do that. But, as you mentioned, mine likes to be shot a bit before shooting for actual score. The number of sighters required varies on how well I cleaned the barrel.

For years I used just a pull through weedeater line and it took 5-10 shots to be on target. Once in awhile I scrubbed the chamber and leade area which might bump up the number of fouling shots required to be back on point. When I really scrubbed the chamber and barrel, it might take a pile of shots!

Here's an interesting example. Had a scope on the gun as I'd taken it to a local BR match. Scrubbed the barrel well with a brush and some stuff that really cleans the gunk out. Just wanted to get it fouled in before the match. There was an old practice target hung on a backer so thought I'd see exactly how many shots it took to "come in".

[url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/]

Bull on left was first 10 shots. First shot low right. Then they went everywhere! Moved to second bull and it started low left and then high right. As I shot it seemed to settle into a general area. That bull had 10 shots in it. Moved to third bull and it started stacking. Shot four shots and mentioned to a friend on the bench next to me how it was doing. He moved his gun to watch and told me to shoot the fifth shot and it stacked again. Then, he said to wait awhile to see if the gun would "wait" for me. So, we sat and talked for a few minutes...which, if you knew me, you'd realize talking is right up my alley! Anyway, decided to see if I could stick another shot into the same hole. Just missed! If you look, the hole is slightly open to the top left at 10 O'clock. But still, it's pretty decent.

Anyway, after such a heavy cleaning, it took approx 17-20 shots before it settled in. Normally would never clean that well between cards in a match, but I still shot a minimum of 12 foulers before starting for score. Had too many times I'd shoot 5 foulers, then a couple of sighters that would all be one hole. Halfway across the first row of the target I'd have one jump up for a 9. Realized that the barrel wasn't completely fouled so started just shooting more shots until I saw one jump and then the gun would do fine.

As to your comment on these being accurate, yes, they can be. Not all of course, but am not a person who judges an entire line of rifles by the performance of only one gun. I've owned three and all three shot awesome. Have shot two others that belonged to friends and both of them shot great too. One wasn't so hot at first but after I recrowned it, it really came alive.

Shoot mine mostly with aperture sights. Have posted targets here on how it does so no need to rehash. Have also shot it in formal BR matches with a scope and again, have posted how it did. I will say this, mine is not the most accurate rifle I've ever shot or owned. Owned a custom rifle that was out of this world...but as to factory rifles, my Kimber would shoot neck and neck with my 40x's, 52D's and Anschutz 54's. God knows the number of 200/20x's I've shot with the gun at 50 yards using aperture sights. Think I've shot four 200/20x's at 100 with the same sights using that rifle.

With a scope, the highest I've ever shot in a match is 250/21x. But here's the kicker...have never ever ever shot less than a 247 in any match with the gun. Well, other than once Kind of went crazy on the bolt and had a slam fire! Wasn't pretty...

These scores were shot at indoor ranges, outside in conditions or wherever I happened to be. Have won a few matches, and even placed pretty darn well in some very big matches against people much better than I am. Hope I remember this correctly, but think the highest I ever finished in a huge match was 8th at an indoor Nationals. Finished 4th in an outdoor Mid Atlantic Regional Meters match once, but there wasn't as many big name shooters at that match as at some of the others, so where you finish isn't so important if there's not a pile of big time shooters. JMO

Long story short, mine's a blast. Love the gun and think I got lucky when I bought it. But there's others out there that shoot just as well.

No, mine's not as good as the custom rifle I owned. Never shot a 750 in an IR match or a 2500 in an ARA match with the Kimber. But had a pile of 749's! The custom was one of those guns that made you giggle when the ammo was working...but overall, for a gun that costs less than a half a case of ammo, the 82g's aren't too shabby.

Enjoy yours for what it is.

Kenny

Last edited by kseatm; 11-15-2019 at 09:36 AM.
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  #35  
Old 11-15-2019, 06:19 PM
BobW.
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I had a feeling if I hung out on here for a while someone would come out of the woodwork with some useful info. Mr Kseatm has just done so.
This barrel fouling/cleaning and fouling again is all new to me. I can remember reading years ago where the Olympic class rimfire shooters go all season without cleaning, maybe some do?
Could someone on here offer any opinion on the Kimber curse, I've heard so much about it, is it true? does it really exist ?. If I take my Kimber 82G in for an exorcism maybe it'll shoot better.
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  #36  
Old 11-15-2019, 07:09 PM
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Kenny is the pre-eminent go to for things 82G, and there are several others with useful experiences as well.
Kenny's rifle is Ms. Chunky, and she apparently likes being a dirty girl.
The 82G does have a few weaknesses, one being the fragility of the cocking screw and the other the ejector.
Fortunately, if you keep the screw well lubricated you can avoid much of the wear problems with it. Replacement screws are available from J&P Proucts.
The ejector is a bent up flag of metal integral to the loading tray, is fragile, and are nonexistent as replacements.
There was a member, Solamar, that machined some several years back, and I bought a couple just in case. They also came shipped with replacement extractors that he made, they had to be fitted to the bolt.
I was fortunate to find one still in the box from a person that bought it from CMP.
The crown was dreadful, other than that and the stock cut the rifle was in good shape. I re-crowned mine with the Manson tool.
Before:

After:

This is what a thrashed cocking screw and bolt shroud looks like:
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Last edited by 'ol shooter; 11-15-2019 at 07:14 PM.
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  #37  
Old 11-15-2019, 09:37 PM
kseatm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobW. View Post
I had a feeling if I hung out on here for a while someone would come out of the woodwork with some useful info. Mr Kseatm has just done so.
This barrel fouling/cleaning and fouling again is all new to me. I can remember reading years ago where the Olympic class rimfire shooters go all season without cleaning, maybe some do?
Could someone on here offer any opinion on the Kimber curse, I've heard so much about it, is it true? does it really exist ?. If I take my Kimber 82G in for an exorcism maybe it'll shoot better.
To answer your questions, I'm not sure on what Olympic class shooters do as to cleaning. Never shot in the Olympics. I have shot in some benchrest matches though. Keep in mind that almost all of the shooters in BR matches are shooting guns with custom barrels (Shilen, Benchmark, Muller, etc). Most of these are what you'd call minimally invasive so the lands and grooves aren't the same as what you'd find on a factory rifle. Also, the chambers that are cut on these barrels are cut a bit tighter in specs than a factory rifle. It might be hard to compare a factory barrel to a barrel on a high end custom rifle because of these differences. Would be like comparing apples to oranges. That being said, the most important thing anyone can do is to let their gun tell them how it likes to be cleaned. For shooting tin cans or pieces of broken clays at a public range, it wouldn't matter. But if you're chasing finite accuracy, you can't have variables.

Anyway, most BR shooters clean between targets. Some clean a little, some clean a lot. Some use a few wet patches followed by a few dry, some use a brush to gently scrub the chamber along with wet/dry patches. Some use a brush the entire length of the barrel between cards. What they are looking for is to find that sweet spot that allows the gun to come in without too many foulers and also to not "go away" during a target. You have to keep in mind that most top shooters shoot a pile of shots when shooting a target for score. It's not one of those "shoot three foulers, a sighter and then the entire card" type of thing. Unless you're Robert Oates...that man can shoot an entire 3 card match with 80 bullets!

An example is the Shilen Ratchet I had on my custom was cleaned by running two wet patches down the barrel, a brush 2-3 times and then another few wet patches followed by a dry patch. Did this between every card. That way I started each target with the barrel the exact same. So easier to keep track of where I was at. On an average target, I might shoot anywhere from 50-80 shots counting foulers and sighters. Sometimes many more than that if I couldn't figure out conditions.

Saying all of that, I found that Benchmark barrels didn't seem to be as picky as to cleaning as the Shilen barrels. But that's just my opinion.

So, clean how your gun likes to be cleaned. The only way you'll know is by shooting, cleaning, taking notes and seeing what the results are. Same as testing ammo...you won't know until you shoot the card and see what the results are. One hole groups aren't that big of a deal with a good gun. Moving around a target and shooting a great score is a bit harder. So again, remove all variables.

Not sure what the Kimber curse that you spoke of actually entails. I know (as Bob mentioned above) that you have to grease the cocking screw. Also, keep the lugs greased along with the cocking ramp. Clean up the bolt internals. Replace the screw that holds the loading ramp with a hex or torx head screw to facilitate easy removal. Length of the screw isn't so important as there's nothing under that area. Recrown the barrel...would almost say for certain that it will help. Adjust the trigger to where you like it. You can only go so low in the factory state, but you can still make it better than it is. If you want much better get one of the aftermarket triggers. They can be set as a single or two stage and with mine set as a single stage, it's at a robust 1.5 ounces! I've had Jewell triggers that you had to be careful of slam fires when they are set that low. Never had a slam fire with the aftermarket trigger and it makes the gun much easier to shoot.

Other than this stuff, the only thing I'd do is bed the thing and work on ignition a little. Do be careful of the loading ramp. If you break that tab, you're not going to like yourself very much. So, take it out when cleaning, hence replacing the screw that holds it.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. I've posted a bunch of stuff about Ms Chunky in different threads here in this forum. Others have posted a bunch of stuff too. So, just look around and ask questions. Everyone on this forum is very helpful so don't be afraid to ask.

Oh, since Ms Chunky likes the bright lights, here's what she looks like dressed up for a BR match...

[url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/]

And here she is ready to shoot some apertures...

[url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/]

Not the factory sights though. Just something I threw together

Oh, as to ammo...all guns might like certain ammo brands. My Kimber likes certain ammo for certain situations. When shooting at 50 yards with apertures I can get by with selected lots of SK RM or Center X. Of course tested lots of Eley Match do very well too but a little overkill for apertures at 50. When shooting at 100 with apertures I use only the best lots of Eley match that I can find. Don't want to waste the walk out that far to find a shot in the 9 ring...At BR matches, I only use tested lots of Eley Match. Never had much luck with Tenex but not saying you won't find a great lot if you test enough. But whatever ammo you shoot, test it by lot numbers. That's the most important thing you can do as to ammo. No matter if it's wolf MT, SK RM, Center X, Midas+, Eley Match or Eley Tenex. Test what works the best in your gun.

Sorry for the novel...I can get a bit long winded....



Good luck with yours.

Kenny

Last edited by kseatm; 11-15-2019 at 09:40 PM.
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  #38  
Old 11-15-2019, 11:56 PM
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^Dang Kenny I always read a few chapters of a book before I go to bed to help me fall asleep. You took care of that for me. G'night all!

Joking of course. Your "books" are usually more interesting than what I'm reading anyway.
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  #39  
Old 11-16-2019, 06:35 AM
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I'll risk exposing my ignorance by asking a few questions. Is the screw that holds the loading ramp in place the same one as the cocking screw? Where can I get a back up loading ramp and screws incase I break the tab?
Is there an off the shelve screw that will replace these screws? Thread size?
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  #40  
Old 11-16-2019, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BobW. View Post
I'll risk exposing my ignorance by asking a few questions. Is the screw that holds the loading ramp in place the same one as the cocking screw? Where can I get a back up loading ramp and screws incase I break the tab?
Is there an off the shelve screw that will replace these screws? Thread size?
The cocking screw is the screw that is in the back of the bolt shroud. If you look at how it functions, it just rides against the lip of the shroud as the bolt is cocked. A tip that helped me is to file and hone the sides of the bolt itself to make it smooth. Chuck it up in a drill press and just file the outside edge smooth. Clean it up with a hone to make it like silk. Then, gently deburr the edge of the shroud that it rides against. Grease this thing every time you use the gun and you should be ok. But do order some spares. One thing, most of these screws are left hand thread. Some have right hand thread, but in general they're left hand. Just remember that when removing.

As to the loading ramp screw, if you look down into the ramp from the top of the action, at the rear you'll see a little flat head screw. Hard to get to when wanting to remove, so take that thing out and replace with a 6-48 torx or hex head screw. You then can use a ball end type wrench to easily remove the screw anytime you wish. You can find the screws at fastnal or anyplace like that. Not sure on Lowes or Home Depot, but one place that would have them is your local gunsmith. I'd check there if you can't find one. Oh, don't crank down on the screw. There's no need to do that. Just snug it up and it works fine.

One note, when removing and reinstalling the loading platform, pay attention to how it seats. Look at the bullet that is being fed into the chamber. Sometimes the loading platform might be off a bit and it will cause the bolt to close hard or it will cause the bullet to be shaved as it's loaded. Just a small shim of soda can aluminum will solve the issue should you have one. A trick if you're really going for accuracy...feed each round in by hand. Don't trust a loading platform to align your bullet up perfectly. Just start the round by hand, use your thumb to push it in and then the bolt will do the rest of the work when you close it. I use my thumb on the very rear of the shroud to push the bolt closed. Keeps from pushing anything in on an angle. Just a small thing, and probably anal on my part, but it works pretty well.

As to a replacement loading platform, just pay attention to what you're doing and you should be fine. Should you need one, I'd ask here as there may be someone with an extra laying around.

Kenny
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  #41  
Old 11-17-2019, 08:42 AM
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Thanks Ol Shooter for the pic's, very nice. The pic of the cocking screw and I assume you mean trashed not thrashed, very interesting. The cocking screw does look fragile but how can the screw/bolt get that messed up?
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  #42  
Old 11-17-2019, 01:31 PM
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Trashed, thrashed, FUBAR, all pretty mean the same thing.
Mistreated and worn beyond repair would be the technical term I suppose.
The bolt shroud cams against the cocking stud to retract the striker so it can reset the sear lever. The striker is spring loaded and the contact area of the cocking screw/bolt shroud is small, translating to a great deal of pressure on the contact area.
High pressure bearing grease allows them to slide over each other with a barrier between the metals.
The cocking studs are available as replacements, the shroud is not. The only remedy would be to weld the damaged area and re-profile it.
A little lube goes a long way.
As Kenny stated, don't forget the locking lugs.
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Old 11-18-2019, 08:06 PM
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i did install the new trigger system i bought here a number of years back - cant recall the name this instant but they did talk of another run recently ,
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Old 11-19-2019, 12:10 AM
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i did install the new trigger system i bought here a number of years back - cant recall the name this instant but they did talk of another run recently ,
Xtreme Shooting

http://www.x-tremeshooting.com/index...e=Kimber%2082G
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Old 11-19-2019, 05:53 AM
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I did find a cocking screw online from Gun Parts inc. It's not an original part but a cocking screw nonetheless. Finding a LOADING RAMP might be more difficult but I'm sure someone on here has a extra one to sell (-:.
Applying grease to the screw/shroud area is a great tip as well as the locking lugs. The bolt locks and unlocks really tight, much tighter than any rimfire I've ever owned. When opening the bolt as it gets just past 90 degrees to the receiver is when I encounter the most resistance. This tightness my be the reason this rifle #11,027 is so accurate. I've been shooting informal benchrest for years with all kinds of rifles and calibers this little off the shelve Kimber gave me my first true one hole group. When I say one hole group it looks literally like one shot not 5. Since I'm your average shooter I guess odds where it was bound to happen once but never again..
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