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  #1  
Old 07-04-2018, 06:58 PM
RFMan
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Sears Model 25 extractor replacement help



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Can anyone clue me in on how to replace the extractors on a Sears Model 25 rifle? This one shoots 22 shorts, longs, and long rifle. Everything seems pretty straightforward...except for how to get the extractors out of the bolt. I'd appreciate any help!
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  #2  
Old 07-04-2018, 10:18 PM
VASCAR2
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I did a little internet search and checked Numerich to verify I was looking at the correct rifles. The extractor is held into the bolt in the same fashion as a Ruger 10/22 bolt extractor. There is a spring in a tube with a detent which holds pressure on the extractor. To remove the extractor you need a small screw driver to punch to push the detent to the rear to release forward pressure on the extractor. The extractor can then be wiggled out of the bolt. The Sears Model 25 is supposed be the same rifle as a High Standard A103. Numerich Arms has a schematic for the model 100 which seems to be the same design. The Sears 25 was also sold as The J C Higgins model 25. There are parts on Numerich arms for the J C Higgins model 25.


Here is a thread I found on research someone else did on a Sears Model 25.






Sears Model 25 - Some Facts and History
I was given this gun from a friend of my wife who found it cleaning out her deceased fathers garage. It was filthy and had a lot of surface rust. It’s stock had a large, wide crack and a second smaller crack and the finish was completely gone. It was complete except for the rear sight elevator but filthy dirty with accumulated dirt and grime. The bore appeared good and shinny but dirty.

I disassembled and completely cleaned the gun. It’s bolt handle was in good condition but, after cleaning and heavy wire brushing to remove rust, lacked bluing. Also, the center hole of the “take-down” escutcheon appeared worn into an oval shape which prevented a tight fit between stock and receiver. I later found they were supposed to be oval shaped and that the takedown screw just needed to be more firmly tightened. After cleaning and scrubbing the rust spots with Hoppe’s Number 9 and a copper wire brush followed with a light coat of oil to the internals and a heavy coat to the outside of the barrel and receiver the gun actually looks quite good. I’ve seen them selling up to $250.00 in good condition. The bluing on this gun is very good with a few places of very light pitting but overall, considering it’s age, it’s in very nice condition.

After spending some time on the internet here's what I learned.

Sears Model 25 .22 Caliber Semi Automatic Rifle With J.C. Higgins 4X Scope

Series 583 2501
This gun’s barrel is clearly date stamped TT but I’m unable to translate the code.

Produced by High Standard Manufacturing Company, Hamden, Connecticut 1959 to 1967

Sears Model 25 offered in Sear’s Catalog Christmas 1959 to 1966
The early Model 25 was stamped 589 2500 Later models were stamped 583 2501

The same gun was sold by Sears as a J C Higgins Model 25 for some overlapping period of time.

J C Higgins was a Sear’s brand name they used for sporting goods items from 1908 until 1962 when they replaced it with their Ted Williams brand.

The rifle was also sold by High Standard as Model A103 which evolved into their Sport King A1041 Carbine.

The J. C. Higgins 4X scope was manufactured by the W. R. Weaver Company of El Paso, Texas under license to Sears during the 1950’s into the mid 1960’s.

The scope probably was probably included with the rifle. Sears offered it’s Model 25 that way as a combination. The rifle and the scope were also sold separately.

I found an original manual for the J C Higgins Model 25 on ebay.

I located a used but nice stock on GunBroker.

I located a new bolt handle, sight elevator and escutcheon at Gun Parts that are currently on their way.

It's going with me on Wednesday for a function test. I've got my fingers crossed.

Here's a look at my "new" Sears Model 25

Last edited by VASCAR2; 07-04-2018 at 10:29 PM.
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  #3  
Old 07-04-2018, 10:36 PM
RFMan
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I really appreciate the fast reply. I've been digging too, and there's not much out there. I already bought the replacement extractors, plungers, and springs from Numrich. I've removed and installed Ruger 10/22 extractors...and I find them much easier than this It's giving me a fit. First time is always hardest, I guess. Back to wiggling!

ETA: I FINALLY got the little buggers out. Springs are about half the new length. Replacing these ought to fix the ejection problems. Time for bed now; I'll put the new stuff in after work tomorrow.

Last edited by RFMan; 07-04-2018 at 11:07 PM.
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  #4  
Old 07-05-2018, 03:11 PM
VASCAR2
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Curious if there was rust or build up of gunk inside the bolt where the spring and detent reside. If I think about it I usually soak parts like this on old guns with Kroil. Seems 22 rimfire guns get neglected/filthy and the Kroil makes disassembly easier.

Glad you got it apart. Guns like your model 25 are from a by gone era and will likely never be manufactured again. These old guns have special appeal to me kind of like an old car or airplane.
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Old 07-06-2018, 10:45 AM
RFMan
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There was no rust, but there was plenty of gunk. (This is actually my old college roommate's dad's rifle.) I cleaned all that out before replacing parts. The trigger pull is pretty hefty; I didn't mess with that.

The Numrich parts were interesting. The springs were much longer (more coils) than the originals. The plungers were eyeball identical. The two extractors, though...they were different. One of them (the left, more rounded one) I could not use; it is a different shape and would not fit.

Planning to shoot this weekend, and grab a couple of pics.
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  #6  
Old 07-08-2018, 04:05 PM
VASCAR2
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Id really like to see pictures of the sears 22 rimfire rifle. The first gun I ever bought was a Sears which was a rebranded Winchester 190. Always liked the old 22 rimfires. I hope your successful getting your rifle working.

In that era most of the guns required hand fitting so not surprising the Numerich extractor might not fit.
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  #7  
Old 07-08-2018, 04:27 PM
RFMan
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Here you go...I've had some bad vertigo this weekend, so I haven't shot it yet. It was really rough when my friend showed it to me. A little Kroil work got most of the rust off. You can see where it did a number on the trigger. The stock was that dark brown lacquer they used to use, and it was really chipped up a lot (I neglected to take pictures of the "before"; sure wish I had!). My friend was fine with me working the stock over. I used lacquer thinner and a sock (a trick I learned here at RFC) to strip it, followed by a light sanding and four coats of Tru-oil. The wood looks pretty nice - shame to cover it up with that brown glop. After working the action, I might need to replace the spring on the cartridge lifter (in retrospect, I should have replaced ALL the springs at once).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Model25_left_full.jpg (316.9 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Model25_right_full.jpg (321.1 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Model25_front_zoom_left.jpg (511.9 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg Model25_zoom_left.jpg (521.1 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg Model25_zoom_right.jpg (521.7 KB, 5 views)
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  #8  
Old 09-29-2019, 11:07 AM
jimchevy

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RFman, I just sent you a PM question about this removal process. I cannot figure out how to remove the extractor. Youtube does not have any vids on removal for this gun. The 10/22 vids are close but there is a slot "behind" the hole to keep pulling in where this rifle only has the hole.
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  #9  
Old 09-29-2019, 12:06 PM
RFMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimchevy View Post
RFman, I just sent you a PM question about this removal process. I cannot figure out how to remove the extractor. Youtube does not have any vids on removal for this gun. The 10/22 vids are close but there is a slot "behind" the hole to keep pulling in where this rifle only has the hole.
Oh, boy. Enough time has passed that this will certainly stress my recall ability
Do you have the instructions and exploded parts diagram? I can send you those if not.

I too had the devil's own time getting those out. I remember trying various small screwdrivers, and maybe a straight dental pick. I THINK the trick was somehow holding the spring and plunger compressed to the rear while getting the extractor to the right angle and wiggling it out. The issue is that there is very little room to both get the tool in there, and to still allow rotation of the extractor to the right angle to let it slide out. It's been long enough that I would almost be starting over, if I had one in front of me to do. It's a three-handed job.
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  #10  
Old 09-29-2019, 01:02 PM
jimchevy

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I do have the diagram. I agree about the difficulty on this. I will keep trying before I give up. Thanks for posting.
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