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Old 09-18-2019, 06:22 PM
Basstar

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NRL Competition



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I accidentally stumbled across a rimfire NRL competition on YT the other day and it looks intriguing as heck.

Honestly I was impressed to see the number of 10/22 rifles being used for such accurate shooting against some very nice bolt guns.

Questions:

Assuming a person wanted to build a rifle for that style of shooting and competition what are a coupe of good recommendations for aftermarket stocks, barrels, etc.?

Secondly, is a person just as well off to contact KIDD and order a complete rifle already built and set up or can one build a reasonably competitive rifle at a better price point?

I'm just now getting back to my rimfire roots to enjoy shooting again and "Holy Moly" there is an entirely new world out here now! I'm trying to soak up what I can and have been helped here a ton but still have a lot to learn.

Thanks

Last edited by Basstar; 09-18-2019 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 09-18-2019, 07:37 PM
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I just made one I built years ago work for unlimited. Its a kidd barrel i bought used, a kidd bolt (i needed another bolt for a build, so i bought the kidd bolt and put it in this rifle. But i did not see any accuracy difference between a kidd bolt, and the factory bolt that was headspaced, pinned and had an aftermarket firing pin.)

i had the barreled action in a laminate, it has shot a best 50y group of .156" ctc. it typically shoots between 1/5"-1/4". i put it in a hogue i already had and built up the cheek on it. swapped over to an athlon ares. still shoots the same. so this one would run in the unlimited class. i may still buy a stock for it, im thinking boyds tacticool for the pistol grip, but we will see.

i also have a carbine that shoots pretty good (for what it is), to run in base class if needed. I still need to put sling studs on it.

you can build a cheap rifle. in the unlimited build, i have $120 in the barrel, $60 in the action, it has a kidd bolt in it, but you could run a factory bolt with work done or a JWH for about $70 in it. whichever trigger kit you want to use. my cheapest is an $18 JWH hammer that i polished, did a little polish work on a factory ruger sear and used factory ruger springs, and it breaks around 3lbs. 'that is what is in my carbine.

scope and rings, thats up to you. so you dont have to spend a million bucks. beauty of the 10/22 is that you can build it as you go. the rifles are going to get a little beat up, so I didnt want to use any of my nice stocks or anything. i really think, even shooting unlimited, if you could spend around $140 on a good barrel, buy something like this for $210, https://grabagun.com/ruger-10-22-car...inch-10rd.html , use the stock, spend $70 on the bolt, put a 15 MOA base on it, as little as $20 on the trigger. you could have under $500 in the rifle, and assuming the barrel is a shooter it should be competitive depending on your skillset and optic choice. so it is really up to you as to what you want to shoot. you certainly dont need to spend a ton if you dont want to.

here are my 10/22s for NRL. i was going to shoot a bolt gun, but being left handed and with timed stages i decided to run the 10/22.




Last edited by Clem-E; 09-18-2019 at 07:53 PM.
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  #3  
Old 09-18-2019, 07:52 PM
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I have shot NRL 22 all summer it is a lot of fun and a great way to hone your skills.
For open class a Kidd is a one stop shop they will run with more expensive rifles if you and your ammo are up to it.
Base class CZ, Tikka T1X, or Savage are good rifles. There is a price limit on this class.
Scopes 12 to 18 power are all you need but they should focus down to 25 yards.
A reticle with hold over marks makes the long shots easier in the 2 minute time frame.
My advice take a 22 you have and shoot a match and see what the course of fire is like. See what the other shooters are using and ask questions then decide on equipment. Oh a word of warning the rabbit hole is deep.
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Old 09-18-2019, 08:20 PM
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Thanks so much and I appreciate you each mentioning a base class. I have that covered but will look into a tactical style scope or scope with holdover marks.

Much appreciated.
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:04 AM
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One of the most popular scopes at my local NRL 22 match is the Vortex Diamondback Tactical FFP, either model.
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Old 09-19-2019, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Hacker View Post
One of the most popular scopes at my local NRL 22 match is the Vortex Diamondback Tactical FFP, either model.

The reticle on that scope in mills does. not match. The turrets are calibrated in mills and the reticle is in moa. That is ok if you know it but can be confusing lf you dial and use the reticle together.
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Old 09-19-2019, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHB51 View Post
The reticle on that scope in mills does. not match. The turrets are calibrated in mills and the reticle is in moa. That is ok if you know it but can be confusing lf you dial and use the reticle together.
Perhaps you are looking at an older model.

Current versions of the Diamondback Tactical come with your choice of reticle/adjusters. You can get the MOA model or the Milliradian model but which ever one you get the turrets will match the reticle.

https://vortexoptics.com/vortex-diam...tex_reticle=22

I have the 6-24x MRAD model. I'd be happier with better eye relief but it's a very good scope for the money.

Whether you go MOA or MRAD the trick is to learn your trajectory in that system ... make a drop chart to keep handy... for all those "in between" distances the NRL shoots like to use. Comes in handy whether you're spinning dials or using the holdover marks.
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Last edited by Sophia; 09-19-2019 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 09-19-2019, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophia View Post
Perhaps you are looking at an older model.

Current versions of the Diamondback Tactical come with your choice of reticle/adjusters. You can get the MOA model or the Milliradian model but which ever one you get the turrets will match the reticle.

https://vortexoptics.com/vortex-diam...tex_reticle=22

I have the 6-24x MRAD model. I'd be happier with better eye relief but it's a very good scope for the money.

Whether you go MOA or MRAD the trick is to learn your trajectory in that system ... make a drop chart to keep handy... for all those "in between" distances the NRL shoots like to use. Comes in handy whether you're spinning dials or using the holdover marks.

Must have been old stock. We did a lot of head scratching till we figured it out the dial up didn't match the hold over marks on the reticle.
I ordered the MOA version and have no complaints. The eye relief isn't to bad to deal with for the money I don't think you can go wrong. I have looked through Leupolds for twice the money that were not as bright and clear.
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  #9  
Old 09-19-2019, 08:53 PM
Basstar

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clem-E View Post
I just made one I built years ago work for unlimited. Its a kidd barrel i bought used, a kidd bolt (i needed another bolt for a build, so i bought the kidd bolt and put it in this rifle. But i did not see any accuracy difference between a kidd bolt, and the factory bolt that was headspaced, pinned and had an aftermarket firing pin.)

i had the barreled action in a laminate, it has shot a best 50y group of .156" ctc. it typically shoots between 1/5"-1/4". i put it in a hogue i already had and built up the cheek on it. swapped over to an athlon ares. still shoots the same. so this one would run in the unlimited class. i may still buy a stock for it, im thinking boyds tacticool for the pistol grip, but we will see.

i also have a carbine that shoots pretty good (for what it is), to run in base class if needed. I still need to put sling studs on it.

you can build a cheap rifle. in the unlimited build, i have $120 in the barrel, $60 in the action, it has a kidd bolt in it, but you could run a factory bolt with work done or a JWH for about $70 in it. whichever trigger kit you want to use. my cheapest is an $18 JWH hammer that i polished, did a little polish work on a factory ruger sear and used factory ruger springs, and it breaks around 3lbs. 'that is what is in my carbine.

scope and rings, thats up to you. so you dont have to spend a million bucks. beauty of the 10/22 is that you can build it as you go. the rifles are going to get a little beat up, so I didnt want to use any of my nice stocks or anything. i really think, even shooting unlimited, if you could spend around $140 on a good barrel, buy something like this for $210, https://grabagun.com/ruger-10-22-car...inch-10rd.html , use the stock, spend $70 on the bolt, put a 15 MOA base on it, as little as $20 on the trigger. you could have under $500 in the rifle, and assuming the barrel is a shooter it should be competitive depending on your skillset and optic choice. so it is really up to you as to what you want to shoot. you certainly dont need to spend a ton if you dont want to.

here are my 10/22s for NRL. i was going to shoot a bolt gun, but being left handed and with timed stages i decided to run the 10/22.



I'm seriously considering doing a bit of trigger work to my carbine, adding a slip on cheek riser much like the one yours is wearing and getting some decent glass.

I like the wood stocks and am figuring with a few tweaks the rifle will out shoot me anyway.

BTW, what kind of groups will your carbine here shoot?

Again thanks.
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:04 PM
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That barrel shoots ok. somewhere between 1/4"-1/3" at 25y. Not my best barrel, but good enough. I was going to use my older SS 10/22T in base class, but since the rifle was discontinued, it no longer qualifies. which sucks for me because that is my best factory 10/22.
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clem-E View Post
That barrel shoots ok. somewhere between 1/4"-1/3" at 25y. Not my best barrel, but good enough. I was going to use my older SS 10/22T in base class, but since the rifle was discontinued, it no longer qualifies. which sucks for me because that is my best factory 10/22.
Thank you.
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