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  #1  
Old 02-02-2019, 08:26 AM
Phelpsm

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Ruger 10/22 or convert to a 17hmr



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An it be done with using a aftermarket steal receiver ?
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Old 02-04-2019, 10:58 AM
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Conversions

Hello,

I'm not exactly an expert in this area, but it seems like the 22wmr and 17 hmr parts are basically interchangeable. IF that's the case, you should be able to convert any 10/22 Magnum to 17 with a barrel change. IF you're talking about converting a standard 10/22 (22lr) to 17 hmr, you will definitely need a new receiver, since the 17's are significantly longer than 22lr. This means you will have to have all new internals made to fit the Magnum sized receiver. Hope this is helpful!

Happy Shooting
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Old 02-04-2019, 10:57 PM
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Theories

In theory, this is true. The trick is going to be finding a .17 HMR barrel and a suitable receiver. I'll check the owner's manual I have which lists the 10/17 HMR part numbers as well as the 10/22M parts. Those parts have not been available from Ruger for a long time. I'm just curious.
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Old 02-05-2019, 04:31 PM
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Can you post picture of manual pages with part differences?
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Old 02-05-2019, 10:38 PM
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Manual

The manual has a 7 page parts list and 6 pages of parts diagrams. It includes parts for the 10/22 carbine and 10/22 rifles in .22lr, .22WMR, and .17 HMR.
A couple of examples with Ruger part numbers:
Barrel
.22 lr - 0B8009
.22 WMR - 0B8004
.17 HMR - 0B8008

Complete Bolt Assembly
Standard finish - B-10A (.22lr)
Color Buffed - B-10C (.22lr Deluxe Sporter & Target Models)
.22 WMR - B21006
.17 HMR - B21004

Some parts are common to all models. The hammer, for example, does not have a unique part number for the WMR or HMR model. The Target model hammer does have a unigue part number. However, the WMR and HMR models share a different hammer spring as compared to all .22lr models. There is at least one error in the parts list. They describe the WMR/HMR magazine (JMX-1) as having a 10 shot capacity. We know better and other text in the manual refers to the correct 9 shot capacity.

There is no listing for any receiver. I'm assuming that's because it is the serial numbered part and is "the gun", legally speaking. We know the magnum receiver is steel with scope ring bases machined into the top. The assumption follows that the HMR receiver would have been the same had it ever come to market.

I've had people try to tell me no such manual exists since the 10/17 never went on sale to the public. The fact that the manual was printed tells us how close it came. I am not posting a photo of mine but here's one for sale on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-Origin...ss!46237!US!-1

Last edited by DRob; 02-05-2019 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:20 AM
coloradokid
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Thanks, was curious.
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Old 04-15-2019, 12:14 PM
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Is anyone selling aftermarket 22wmr/17hmr length receivers? I've seen the 80 percent jobs, but don't want to go there.

Is the 22lr bolt and 22wmr bolt the same length?
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Old 09-15-2019, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by m17hm2 View Post
Is anyone selling aftermarket 22wmr/17hmr length receivers? I've seen the 80 percent jobs, but don't want to go there.

Is the 22lr bolt and 22wmr bolt the same length?
CZ, and they come with a bolt, barrel, trigger, and stock!

When I was shooting 10/22's you could and I did convert a 22lr to 17 M2 with just a bolt change. It's not that easy with a 17 because of the pressure curves, out of battery discharges were often a problem. I understood that it caused Ruger to discontinue the 10/17 after a couple years. Volquartzen made em for a while, maybe still do but it's not as simple a conversion as with the Mach2.
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Old 09-15-2019, 02:03 PM
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Conversions are very very tricky to get the timing right/correct/perfect.. It's just one reason that the HMR and HM2 ammo Mfg's washed there hands of liability when they issued recalls/buybacks and warnings against usage with semi's when the conversions hit the market. I say with experience look elsewhere to spend your money. Even the Savage A17 that I bought/tried and then sold blew residue out and on your face with each shot... usable and functional BUT only with good eye-wear.. a no brainer with any Firearm BUT still it was a nuisance.. I suggest a good quality bolt Rifle. MANY conversions that have been tried ended in dis-assemble and sale of the conversion components...My .02.

This is just one of the many FAILS - HM2 but you get the picture.. OOB KABOOMS will wake yer Arss up :


Last edited by Chaser; 09-15-2019 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 09-16-2019, 05:40 PM
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This is a recording

Quote:
Originally Posted by ffracer View Post
CZ, and they come with a bolt, barrel, trigger, and stock!

When I was shooting 10/22's you could and I did convert a 22lr to 17 M2 with just a bolt change. It's not that easy with a 17 because of the pressure curves, out of battery discharges were often a problem. I understood that it caused Ruger to discontinue the 10/17 after a couple years. Volquartzen made em for a while, maybe still do but it's not as simple a conversion as with the Mach2.
I'm going to start with the assumption you meant barrel change rather than bolt change. You're correct that taming the pressure curve was the big issue. Commonly called "the dreaded pressure spike" back when lots of guys were fiddling with .17 conversions. Lots of pressure trying to escape through a smaller diameter tube (AKA bore) was the culprit. It could be successfully tamed by retarding bolt movement via added weight or stronger recoil and/or hammer springs. There was no common "fix" and every gun had to be tuned as an individual. This is not a workable process in a mass-produced gun. I have both a carbine and a Charger converted from .22lr to .17 HM2. The shorter the barrel, the easier it is to tame the pressure spike. The Charger has a 12" barrel and all it took was a stronger recoil spring. The 16" carbine has a VQ CF barrel and took recoil and hammer spring increases. Both run and shoot very well...(here's the recording) IF I CLEAN THE BARREL/CHAMBER ABOUT EVERY 50 SHOTS. Maintenance is the issue. Guess who's to blame for that!

Ruger NEVER put a "10/17" on the market, though they came close. It was stillborn when they killed the 10/22 magnum from which it evolved. The "fixing" of the 10/22M bolt by adding a second "extractor" on the left side of the bolt was the killer. It created a thin/weak section on front/lower edge which broke off if/when that 2nd extractor came adrift and was captured within the receiver. My 10/22M, minus that 2nd extractor, is easily converted to .17 HMR now by just switching barrels. It required heavier springs and shoots both calibers very well. SEE THE ABOVE RECORDING.

Last edited by DRob; 09-16-2019 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 04-04-2020, 05:36 PM
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10/22m to 17hmr switch

The Magnum Research 1722M has a small (1/64th) sized pinhole to allow excess pressure to prevent damage or injury to the shooter. Heavier
charging bolt, and spring work great and best with the 40 and greater wieght projectiles.. I'm waiting for my new Green Mountain 77/.17hmr barrel to arrive but before I fire it I'm going to tap a small super small 1/64" relief port; then if it functions properly with lighter projectiles(bullets), I'll call it good. If not I'll try heavier bullets. If it doesn't cycle I will than recap the hole, and try again.

I've only had (1) time where the 22wmr cracked a magazine and I blame it on installing a plastic whatever buffer pin that weakened and failed. My experience with adjustable gas vents are exactly what my M1A does when I fire heavier bullets safely.
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Old 04-29-2020, 11:44 AM
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Conversion from 22 wmr semi to 17hmr Lever 96M

I received my new 20"Green Mountain Bull fluted barrel a few weeks ago.
I tried switching out My 1722Mag first but because the shoulder length and tightness where too long and loose, decided instead to plan B.
Turned out better than I expected and kept the Magnum Research 22wmr the way it was and is perfect.

Now my Ruger 96M is a two for one rifle and switching out the current factory barrel 22wmr to 17HMR was fun and successful. I first used my old 10/22 wooden stock that I had already channelled for a .920 bull barrel from long ago and went to work with a dremmel and cut the the pistol so the lever would close properly.

There was no way I was going to mar/up the factory 96 stock. The old stock looks pertty to me with all it's dings and wear marks but talk about accurate! 200 yards only drops about 6 inches and 2" at 150. I really like the 17HMR and has become a new friend. Thank you Rimfire Central many good ideas and feel a little good that I can contribute too.
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Old 05-06-2020, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaser View Post
Conversions are very very tricky to get the timing right/correct/perfect.. It's just one reason that the HMR and HM2 ammo Mfg's washed there hands of liability when they issued recalls/buybacks and warnings against usage with semi's when the conversions hit the market. I say with experience look elsewhere to spend your money. Even the Savage A17 that I bought/tried and then sold blew residue out and on your face with each shot... usable and functional BUT only with good eye-wear.. a no brainer with any Firearm BUT still it was a nuisance.. I suggest a good quality bolt Rifle. MANY conversions that have been tried ended in dis-assemble and sale of the conversion components...My .02.

This is just one of the many FAILS - HM2 but you get the picture.. OOB KABOOMS will wake yer Arss up :

What do you think caused this? I am asking because I just had something similar with a 10/22Mag with a .17mg barrel conversion. Did not blow up the magazine, but popped it out, and split the case at the top and blew out a hole on the side of the base. I have not fired it or cleaned it in years, but concerned that I am suddenly having issues..
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Old 05-06-2020, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CenTexrimfire View Post
What do you think caused this? I am asking because I just had something similar with a 10/22Mag with a .17mg barrel conversion. Did not blow up the magazine, but popped it out, and split the case at the top and blew out a hole on the side of the base. I have not fired it or cleaned it in years, but concerned that I am suddenly having issues..
It's all about the timing.. IF you have the bolt weight.. the bolt handle weight.. the spring weight/tension just perfect with the chamber squeeky clean all is well.. how often that happens on a conversion is debatable and rare IMO.
Savage A17 got around the bolt staying closed a nano second longer by milling in a slight recess/notch that retained/retarded/slowed the bolt after ignition (a unique delayed-blowback action) ... I had one of those and was not impressed.. sold it.
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