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  #16  
Old 07-23-2015, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGW Gunsmith View Post
[email protected]@KS really good so far. One suggestion, if you don't mind. Save the border, or edge of the pattern lines until last for cutting to full depth and width. That way, you can take care of any over-runs that might happen.
I don't mind at all. Tips like yours, if I follow them, should help me accomplish something approaching respectable.

Since the impression was already there along the edge, I figured if I cut the border to 1/2 or 3/4 of intended depth it would help act as a stop. I could then clean it up with the final cutting.
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  #17  
Old 07-23-2015, 03:10 PM
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Yeah lookin' good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SGW Gunsmith View Post
One suggestion, if you don't mind. Save the border, or edge of the pattern lines until last for cutting to full depth and width. That way, you can take care of any over-runs that might happen.
That is an excellent suggestion that I'd second as well.
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  #18  
Old 04-05-2019, 11:17 AM
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Well, the attempt to checker the fore-stock went bust. This was before developing a technique of cutting into the impressed checking with an Xacto chisel. I believe if I had used the Xacto chisel technique to cut across the ridges I may have been able to maintain a semi-clear diamond pattern. This technique worked really well on an old Mossberg stock. However, the Mossberg impressed checking pattern had broader lines. The Remington impressed pattern is very fine. When I attempted to cut across the line I had cut, I could not maintain parallel cuts and lines would merge. Blah. It became too frustrating for me to continue. It's all good though. Failing is part of learning. The failure here helped over come problems on my Mossberg project.

So, how to fix the 522 fore end mess I made? What was it that Detective Callahan said? "A man's got to know his limitations." Here's a picture of my carnage:

[IMG][/IMG]

Yup. I met mine. Hello? Brownell's? Ahh! Great, you have one in stock. I'll take it. Fortunately, Remington no longer impresses the checking. And a picture beside the fix:



Anyway, while I was searching for 522 stocks I tripped over this butt stock on ebay. I saw a lot more character in this grain then on the very straight grain pattern that came with my 522. So I bought it. I intend to a refinish and reshaping the pistol grip area so as to increase the indentation for the thumb muscle. It's shape is rather industrial and not very fitting at the moment.
[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by Bradical; 04-05-2019 at 06:27 PM.
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  #19  
Old 04-16-2019, 01:51 PM
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It can be saved. You can do it. Looking at eye level along the lines versus straight overhead helps show where exactly they need to be going when things go awry. It also really helps to have light cast perpendicular to the work surface to help define the rows cut rather than mostly overhead too. The long "jointer" style tool is ideal for helping correct merging lines if you don't have the spacing tool that originally cut the pattern (which doesn't exist here), otherwise the longest single line tool you have will do it. If the cutter keeps curving if you push it, try cutting with a pull stroke.

I've found out the hard way that gel type super glue or better yet a clear epoxy like US Composites 635 and wood dust can be used to fill in minute boo-boos and merging lines to be re-cut over but avoid using it to reconstruct entire diamonds.

Also if the checkering tool ever starts feeling independent (which it will) and starts going in anything but a straight line, immediately stop there and get it back on track. Lots more of a challenge once multiple lines get crooked. Start from the last line that was laid down perfectly straight and go back correcting each line individually from there.
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Last edited by ek-marlin-424; 04-16-2019 at 02:03 PM.
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  #20  
Old 04-16-2019, 03:35 PM
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That impressed checkering will be very hard for a beginner to convert to regular checkering.

If I was doing it, I would cut out the impressed checkering. You need chisels and special scrapers to make sure you get the bottom of the recessed area flat. You can control the depth of the cut out area by slimming the stock around the checkered area.

Of course this is a very specialized technique and may be beyond the skills of some. It is hard to checker up to the edge of the recessed area and not mark the edge.

Brownells has scrapers and chisels made for inletting that will work on this technique.

Frank
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  #21  
Old 04-16-2019, 06:52 PM
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Thanks for the tips guys. Your constructive advice is much appreciated. I haven't thrown it out. I do believe I can make it better. The right tools and technique will make a decent repair plausible.
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  #22  
Old 05-14-2019, 08:26 PM
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I think I've got some depth with this one:
[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by Bradical; 05-14-2019 at 08:30 PM.
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  #23  
Old 09-08-2019, 07:46 PM
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Squirrel season begins October 19th. So I thought it best to get it put together. Only thing left to do is drill and tap for the sling hardware.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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  #24  
Old 09-10-2019, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradical View Post
Squirrel season begins October 19th. So I thought it best to get it put together. Only thing left to do is drill and tap for the sling hardware.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Nice piece of lumbar.
I think NOREMF would've given you a on your work/finish with the new wood.
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