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  #136  
Old 12-23-2018, 01:38 PM
M52E1
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Larry,

I follow the RCBS instructions and use their solution for parts cleaning which is mixed with de-ionized water. I use a setting which involves heat and leave the disassembled trigger in the cleaner for 20 - 40 minutes (I cannot remember the timer setting that are available). This will clean off all of the grease / lubricant from the trigger and then I let it air dry, although you could blow it out if you have compressed air.

Several additional notes:

- There are three springs inside the Kenyon trigger and I do not put them in the ultrasonic cleaner
- There is a small metal piece that works with the weight of pull screw and I do not put it the ultrasonic cleaner
- One of the three springs rests under the sear lever and care should be taken when taking the trigger apart as this spring is under tension. Some have been known to take apart / re-assemble the trigger in a pillow case or white plastic bag on their first try in case this spring goes airborne. I have found the best method for putting the spring and sear lever back in place is to use the small blade on a Swiss Army Knife to depress the spring while putting the sear level in place. Once you get the hang of it isn't hard to do.

Hope this helps

Bill
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  #137  
Old 12-23-2018, 05:03 PM
Seewin
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Here is a Kenyon 52 C,D or E trigger. This is as close as you will come to a schematic. Also posted here are the instructions.
Steve

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  #138  
Old 01-14-2019, 06:21 PM
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96stroke

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3 Canjars

Hello! New to RC, but have been following for years and tons of great info on here.

I been reading through this thread (I think the longest running in history @ just shy of 9 years) and have a few questions I need clarification/information on regarding a pre-A 52 (or so I think S/N 33XXX).

1. Is the trigger the same on pre-A and A?
2. Does a Canjar 52-2 fit an A?
3. Would anyone happen to know the order in which the parts for a Canjar 52-2 are assembled (exploded view or cutaway)? I picked up a lot of 3 at a ridiculously low price and they came with just bodies and a bag full of parts. I am hoping all is here to assemble.
4. What is hands down the best trigger for the pre-A and A models?

Last edited by 96stroke; 01-15-2019 at 07:01 AM.
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  #139  
Old 01-14-2019, 09:11 PM
SBS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96stroke View Post
Hello! New to RC, but have been following for years and tons of great info on here.

I been reading through this thread (I think the longest running in history @ just shy of 9 years) and have a few questions I need clarification/information on regarding a pre-A 52 (or so I think S/N 33XXX).

1. Is the trigger the same on pre-A and A?
2. Does a Canjar 52-2 fit an A?
3. Would anyone happen to know the order in which the parts for a Canjar 52-2 are assembled (exploded view or cutaway)? I picked up a lot of 3 at a ridiculously low price and they came with just bodies and a bag full of parts. I am hoping all is here to assemble.
4. What is hands down the best trigger for the pre-A and A models?
1. Pre A speedlock (not original slowlock design) is same as A model trigger.
2. Canjar 52-1A, -2A, -3A fit A and B models (hopefully this is what you bought
since you have a pre-A). 52-1C, -2C & 3C fit C,D&E models.
3. Can't help here; have a couple on rifles, no diagrams though.
4. Best trigger I think would be the Kenyon, as shown on page 5 of this thread,
Fits A & B models; very scarce. I own a number of Kenyon triggers and never
saw one of this model except pictures. Kenyon triggers I have on C and later
52's plus Rem. 37 and Anschutz are unbeatable for single stage triggers and I
would not expect the A/B model to be of any less quality. He made fine
triggers. Let me know if you find an extra -- I'd be a buyer for my B prone
rifle!
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  #140  
Old 06-14-2019, 08:44 PM
Herzo
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Model C trigger

Just picked up a heavy barrel Model C. From the external view it appears to be a stock trigger with the external adjustments through the trigger guard. It apparently has been modified in that the trigger pull is approximately 7 ounces and the bolt release does not function when the trigger is pushed forward after the sear is released.
There is no wire with which to pull the sear out of the path of the bolt for removal.
Any hints?
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