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  #826  
Old 04-21-2017, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grievouspawn View Post
....I understand, as much as I do anything, going too fast. What do you mean about going too far? Too many coats?

Thanx
I'm not sure what's happening but if what you're doing isn't working - and it sounds like it's not - continuing to do it won't make it work better. I wouldn't apply more coats until you're sure the previous ones are solid, whether that takes more time, more AA or removing some layers.
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  #827  
Old 04-23-2017, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CardPuncher View Post
I'm not sure what's happening but if what you're doing isn't working - and it sounds like it's not - continuing to do it won't make it work better. I wouldn't apply more coats until you're sure the previous ones are solid, whether that takes more time, more AA or removing some layers.
I see what you mean now, do not keep piling on coats until the current coat is ready. Thanx

I seem to be back on track today. Nice hard clear top coat this AM. Better to be lucky than skilled any day!

Plan to try for several more AA/TO coats this afternoon.
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  #828  
Old 07-14-2017, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob4BVM View Post
Its not complicated or critical...
Give the wood area you're doing a good squirts of AA, enough to wet it good.
Then put 2-3 fingers of TO on your hand and rub rub rub. Until it 'dries'
First coat takes longest to slik up to a 'dry' coat, successive coats 'dry' faster & faster as you rub them in.
"dry" is not really the right word, nor is "cure". What happens is the TO goes from sticky to slick at some point, you'll know when it happens.

Do manageable areas at a time, not the whole stock. one side of a butt or forearm is workable. This process is best learned by doing. Dig in & go for it, it becomes clear & simple with a bit of experience.

I have done a few stocks with this process, as well as some other wood projects. I like it a lot, one of my favorite finishes now.

Here is the first gun I ever did with it, down around post#52 shows the AA/TO finish results pretty well: https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...=388523&page=4

if I can make it work the first time, anyone can !
Bob
I'm going to give this try unless something better has come along. I'm assuming the AA is the original stuff used on car tires. AA makes a bunch of products now including wax.

How do you guys keep the AA/TO off the receiver and barrel............................................ .............kidding.
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  #829  
Old 03-24-2018, 04:24 PM
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What would you guys use to fix this missing tip of walnut. I was thinking bedding epoxy died to match. Looking for suggestions




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  #830  
Old 04-11-2018, 08:09 AM
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Another piece of walnut glued on and reshaped. It will look way better then epoxy imo


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  #831  
Old 04-11-2018, 09:54 AM
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Not such a good forum location IMO

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris597 View Post




What would you guys use to fix this missing tip of walnut. I was thinking bedding epoxy died to match. Looking for suggestions




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I happened to stumble across this today. Putting in the "Woodstocks" forum IMO is not the best place. Would be better off to start a new thread in the "Stocks" forum. Get more press.

I borrowed your pic for reference in this thread. Might help you out even though it is primarily about a "crack" not a missing piece of wood albeit replacing a lost piece of wood is in there also.

This is the thread.

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums....php?t=1104313

I would not recommend epoxy for the reasons in the thread.

noremf(George)
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  #832  
Old 04-11-2018, 05:58 PM
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Chris, a couple members here have posted projects like yours. These may or may not be more than you wish to embark on, but worth a look.

EK-Marlin did a wonderful job on a busted toe.
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=722353

And Bob Smalser is a long time member here, and who I greatly admire and consider one of the best, both in showing how he does things and his results.
http://contrib1.wkfinetools.com/bSma...epHadwood1.asp
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  #833  
Old 01-28-2019, 10:51 PM
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Back to the original topic......

I have used the Armour-All / Tru-Oil combination with very good results. However, I have a question:

If a stock has been finished with solely Tru-Oil, can the "elixer" be applied over the Tru-Oil only finish?

Thanks in advance.
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  #834  
Old 05-08-2019, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by labratt104 View Post
I have used the Armour-All / Tru-Oil combination with very good results. However, I have a question:

If a stock has been finished with solely Tru-Oil, can the "elixer" be applied over the Tru-Oil only finish?

Thanks in advance.
I haven't seen anyone respond to this but I would say yes as this is meant to speed the time between coats. The AA/Tru-oil elixir basically just causes the Tru-oil to polymerize quicker. I would use 0000 steel wool to prep the existing finish and then apply coats of the elixir as needed. Please correct me if anyone disagrees.
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