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Old 03-31-2019, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flintlock28 View Post
Thanks for the info, I will look into that resizing die(s).

The cases were all shot a few years ago out of My Dan Wesson 715 .357 Mag. I am not up to speed with re-loading Pistol rounds, since I only do Rifle rounds. I think you might be right about Full re-sizing these cases since they're from a different Gun, and later I could let the new Pistol do the Fire-forming for me, and than go to not having to re-size.
The die that I gave the link to is a expanding die , to be used after the sizing die to bring the mouth back out to specs.

I used to try resizing only about half way down the case on pistol brass for the 357. They claim that by not full length resizing the brass will last longer. But by doing so I also have had a few rounds that would not seat completely, and when not noticed will bind the cylinder from turning, and screw me up on timed steel shooting. I now resize full length, and don't think it makes much of a difference in brass life. With mid range loads I have some new brass that have been loaded 12 times , and still looking good.
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Old 03-31-2019, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flintlock28 View Post
That makes sense.......

Is a Dial Caliper accurate enough to measure? or is it simply not a good way of measuring? I'm guessing a Micrometer is the way to go, but I don't have one.
A Caliber will do with a light touch.

As said trying some cast bullets for fit is the easiest if you have some. I used to slug the bore, and throats with soft led. But found it easier to cast Crayola crayon wax in a drilled block of wood, and make slugs if needed.
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  #18  
Old 03-31-2019, 03:49 PM
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Ime, to have the right dia. M die you have to know what the chamber mouth actually is and it Must Be at least the barrel groove dia., a tad more is Ok too.
It is a fine dance between the dimensions and available bullet dia.'s and when done right a joy. Jacketed are much more forgiving of several thou' mis-match but too expensive for me.
A well operated dial caliper (not a digital) that reads to .001 or better (you can eyeball 1/2 a thou' on a dial) will get you close but will likely read a smidge undersize. Another way is to use a bit oversize chunk of dowel spun in a drill and filed/sanded to be a close test fit in cases and chamber mouth and measure that dia., then lable and those test pieces.
Of you have sticky cases, either due to fired in another gun or hot loads, of course they must be resized. Some resize to avoid any potential problems, as noted, and bringing that case mouth open (not just flared, the M die is like the shank of a bullet) to about .0005-.001 under bullet dia. for proper case 'neck' tension. This works fine if all the dimensions are right but does work the case necks; undersize in every re-sizing and back out with every M die expansion. This leads to case neck/mouth splits. Not a big deal with cheap 357Mag brass.
Btw, what Im suggesting here is not 'my' methodology, it is well used and practiced by many in The Cast Bullet Assoc., and other cast bullet advocates.
A further thought about the right bullet size for the cylinder throats is that amount of pressure needed to push the bullet though is 'if it falls through it is too small', 'if ya gotta force it through its too big', 'a gentle push through with a pencil held between thumb and forefinger is jussttt right'.
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Old 03-31-2019, 03:53 PM
Wyocaddis
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I use only 357 cases in 357's and 38 cases in model 14 S&W. My favorite plinking/accuracy load...3.5grs. TiteGroup and a 158 cast semi wadcutter shoots one hole groups off a rest in both 38, 357 cases at 25yds.. Not the fastest but for punching paper can't beat it, in my S&W's and Rugers. Plate loads are completely different.

Last edited by Wyocaddis; 03-31-2019 at 03:55 PM.
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  #20  
Old 04-04-2019, 02:32 PM
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At current prices I'm at about $11.5 cents with fired brass. That's using cast 148 gn BNWC bullets with Accurate #2 and Winchester primers. Its a tad higher with Accurate #5.

Can't comment on the resizing. I use Lyman Dies and do the normal rotation until a round pops out. Never had a chambering issue.
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