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  #1  
Old 04-19-2009, 11:01 PM
RET
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Ural Overhaul VII



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Final shaping.

Check your work more often than normal. It is easy to remove to much material.

Watch the corners, keep them sharp.

--------------------------------------

Remember what you are working on... This rifle was made under slave labor circumstances many times. The person performing the labor was not thrilled to perform whatever task assigned. Workmanship was only what was required to pass...forget pride in outcomes. I write this because almost everything about these rifles ( I have several ) will require a trade off in outcomes. Sometimes I wonder how they perform as well as they do!! Here is some of the common problems with the stocks.

Barrel channels may not be centered.
Stock sides may not be parallel.
Inletting depth may not be consistent.
Wood quality may vary.
Checkering is always very poor ( EXAMPLES: Run overs, uneven, crooked lines, diamonds turning into squares, no diamond points, shallow depth. Overall this is some of the poorest so called checkering I have ever seen.)

The point is when making a gun built under these conditions into one that has symmetry, you will face trade offs. I will note a few here.

Finally, the outcomes are intended to be ones that most DIYS readers can accomplish.

Stock bore line sanded. A crisp edge is desired here. If there is much damage, do not reduce this top edge. Either let it go, or build it up with wood or epoxy.
One will visually notice a problem here quickly, so do not violate this rule.


Cartridge holes drilled. I like to have my 5 rounds handy during competition, so the rifle need not not be lowered. A little faster for single shots like this one. Since this will be painted, epoxy lines do not matter. Notice the paper on the bottom stock edge. A small piece of wood chipped. Put a piece of cardboard on both sides of the stock and C clamp. Fill void with epoxy. Sand the cardboard off.


Port /lightening cuts extended through the stock. View from the top.


View from the bottom. Ensure the drill pierced the correct location. Drill holes and connect with rat tail rasps. Maintain the cheek piece angle.





Make a sanding block 6" longer than the work piece. This was 3 pieces of wood screwed together and the angel cut the length of it. Glue sand paper to the wood. I use 60 grit paper at this stage. Screw the stock to the table and sand. Maintain contact the entire length, but put more pressure on areas with more wood removal. This block was cut to sand 76 degrees on the side while in contact with the table. Notice the stock has areas sanded at the back and front. The center has a large dip as noted on prior posts. I need to remove material on front and back to even out and thin the stock.







Dip revealed at belly and bore line by long sanding block.


This stock is thicker on the RH barrel channel side. In other words, the channel is not centered. Notice the sanded area is more or less parallel with the top of the stock. Some of this is from an amateur working on the stock sometime in it's history.


Castoff maintained. One may be able to see the stock thickness by comparing the tip of the RH/LH barrel channel. RH is thicker.


Use the big sanding block to straighten the stock belly.
Before


After.
Again, notice the hourglass shaped dip about 1.5 inches from the tip. Sand until both sides are parallel, unless the area falls within a reshaping area. Stop sanding prior to the stock being reduced below the trigger guard fixture.



View from the front of RH/LH/ Center of stock. One can tell here that the stock had several inches removed, from the non-matching ends sanding unevenly. This is where a very long sanding block works best, and evens the surface.




At roughly the same stock thickness, a dissimilar shape emerges. Now they may be evened. I'll most likely reshape the fore end belly to match the two.



LH side as seen with outside light.



RH side as seen with outside light. About time to begin blending the panels and making parallel with the bore line. Notice the "window" in the port at this angle.



More to come,

ret

Last edited by RET; 04-20-2009 at 09:35 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-21-2009, 10:53 AM
RET
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Bolt extension weight loss.

Reduce to size with a drill press, lathe or hand drill mounted in a vice.
File to size, sand paper.
Finished.








More to come,

ret

Last edited by RET; 06-16-2010 at 10:52 AM.
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  #3  
Old 05-11-2009, 10:42 PM
RET
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A little more clean up work...

Whenever possible, use an aid to achieve a straight line. In this case, a piece of thin steel clamped to the stock allows a straight line to be rasped. This is the bottom of the cheek piece. I want the port to be even with the bottom edge.



A rasp removes to much material. Use files or sand paper here. Keep a straightedge handy for checking lines.



I also did not like the slab sides, so they are rounded now. I like to use a board the width of the area to be sanded. My strokes are from the bottom to the top instead of front to back. In other words, sand the edges as much as the center..or you will create a dip. Do not sand your reference lines away.



Sanding blocks are useful in corners.



Examine your hand, and look at the grip of a stock. Match your hand in shaping the wood.







These holes are remnants for the cartridges holes that I plugged. Experiment a little.



Most rifle grips are not shaped according to the human hand. Look at your palm and see how your fingers extend from the palm in a radius. The first and fourth fingers are begin sooner that the middle two. When gripping a rifle, the little finger is most comfortable NOT being pushed forward as much as the middle two. My little finger should move further back. I need to reduce the grip diameter here. Since my finger / palm edge extended below the grip cap area, I need to extend the stock.



This looks like a piece of oak, but really is a grip extension. Grip cap area must be flat....this already is, so apply the epoxy and wait a day to rasp to fit.



Irregular areas may be clamped with a rubber band or two.



C clamp is to stop the rubber band from pulling the wood to far.



Finished and awaiting the rasp. The attached block is much larger than needed, but gluing a piece to large for the job is easier to work with than one that is to small.




More to come,

ret

Last edited by RET; 05-12-2009 at 02:44 PM.
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  #4  
Old 05-12-2009, 02:42 PM
RET
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Shaping a grip area for maximum

shooting accuracy. I have noticed "engaging" conversations about the look of a stock, as if how it appears is more important than function.

The stock has an assumed primary function...enabling accuracy. Anything that detracts from that goal should be examined in light of the assumed goal, or another goal. Example: I have customers who want a certain look, and do not care if that "Look" is not an enhancement of the function of accuracy. Sometimes the look IS more important IF the gun sets in the gun safe, or is for show only....or perhaps fired a few times a year.

But, for competition/accuracy purposes, function remains supreme.

On these Russian rifles, the stocks followed a prevailing format of that day. I am sure anyone reading this has seen a has seen trends in guns like clothing of autos. This stock was made for medium hand sizes, perhaps in late JR or Sr high school. An average American man, average hand size, would be slightly large for this grip / stock. The larger the man/ hands, the more the hand must be contorted to shoot this rifle for maximum accuracy. Maximum accuracy potential is achieved when the body does not contort when holding the stock.

On this stock, my palm heel extends over the edge of the grip and the little finger is pushed forward. The designers did have these facts in mind when designing the stocks because the grip on some have a groove , just below the palm swell, for the little finger. And, the grip cap area is angled for function and weight reduction. All I am doing is adding material to adapt the stock for my size of hand.

Notice my fingers are angled upward, to all fit on the grip, and index finger juts downward at and angle.




My palm heel extends over the side of the grip cap area somewhat, even though I am keeping my hand cramped so as to all fit on the grip area. This detracts from a natural hold, and potential accuracy.




Here my hand fits better. No cramping. Index finger is parallel to the stock and other fingers/ stock belly and heel extends over the grip.





Side view with extension. Rough shaped.







Grip cap area angled for weight reduction.





( A great thing about these rifles is that they are inexpensive, rugged, low trade value and the stocks have wood to spare. Great for the DIYS stock maker. If you ever want to charge for your work, you have experience in what to do, avoid. Drilling, plugging, adding wood is not an option on customers stock many times. )

More to come,

ret

Last edited by RET; 05-12-2009 at 02:51 PM.
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  #5  
Old 05-22-2009, 11:19 PM
RET
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Shaping work finished..sanding next.





























Use a smooth file to even high and low spots. Sanding after that. May need a little work on the grip cap area.

More to come,

ret

-----------------------------------

Prior posts

Ural Overhaul I
https://rimfirecentral.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=261580

Ural Overhaul II
https://rimfirecentral.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=267755

Ural Overhaul III
https://rimfirecentral.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=268572

Ural Overhaul IV
https://rimfirecentral.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=269262

Ural Overhaul V
https://rimfirecentral.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=270753

Ural Overhaul VI
https://rimfirecentral.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=269262

Ural Overhaul VII
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=277423

Ural Overhaul VIII
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=309937

Ural Overhaul IX
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=334933

Ural Overhaul X
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=349679

Last edited by RET; 07-29-2010 at 08:43 PM.
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  #6  
Old 07-02-2009, 08:53 AM
RET
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Work halted until HOT weather...

backs away a little and other work allows for this project.

Stock is ready to sand, stipple, and finish.

More to come,

ret
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