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  #136  
Old 11-17-2008, 09:26 PM
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I replaced my trigger return spring with the spring from a floppy disk as mentioned by others. It still returns fine and the trigger is a lot easier to pull.

As for the trigger and adding JB weld, anyone tried modifying the second hole inside the trigger. This would be the hole for the pin that limits the travel in both directions. I am thinking of putting a bushing inside that hole it would reduce the trigger travel in both directions. It wouldn't allow you to pull up as far, and would not allow the trigger to go as far back on return.



Looking at this picture I am referring to the pin between the safety and the pivot pin for the trigger.

Last edited by Christopher_2; 11-17-2008 at 09:32 PM.
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  #137  
Old 11-18-2008, 12:58 AM
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Expect ALOT of tweaking no matter how you do that. Your idea is a different approach but I would think it would be the toughest yet to tweak with a bushing. To go along with your direction, if there was a set-screw that was tapped thru the trigger (wrench access from the finger window) angling up, and you could bear off the back-side of that pin (somehow) THAT would be the "cats behind" !!


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Originally Posted by Christopher_2 View Post
I replaced my trigger return spring with the spring from a floppy disk as mentioned by others. It still returns fine and the trigger is a lot easier to pull.

As for the trigger and adding JB weld, anyone tried modifying the second hole inside the trigger. This would be the hole for the pin that limits the travel in both directions. I am thinking of putting a bushing inside that hole it would reduce the trigger travel in both directions. It wouldn't allow you to pull up as far, and would not allow the trigger to go as far back on return.



Looking at this picture I am referring to the pin between the safety and the pivot pin for the trigger.
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  #138  
Old 11-18-2008, 06:06 AM
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I don't have a pcture yet but about the initial take up. I have been setting actions back when I bed them. You always have a gap in between front of the receiver and the stock, I push the receiver back as far as it will go in the stock and fill in the gap with Devcon,J&B Weld or whatever I am using at the time, this alone will cut down on trigger creep and usually eliminates the need to build up the trigger nose. Remember to always use a good release agent on the receiver, I like moly grease.
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  #139  
Old 11-18-2008, 12:01 PM
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I had the action apart again and this time I polished EVERYTHING that rubbed, touched or slide past each other as well as weakened the sear spring. The pull didn't change (still at 5-5.5 lbs) but is MUCH smoother now! I was using 400 and 1000 grit wet sandpaper. Some of the pieces are so polished that I see my reflection in them well enough to shave!

I also installed the trigger stop - 6/32"x1/2" (I think; I went longer than the 6/32"x1/4" previously mentioned since I have a metal trigger guard that looks like it may be thicker)

It's better, not quite what I was hoping for (though my expectations may have been unreasonable) but I think I may have to call it good!

Thanks for all of your help!
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  #140  
Old 11-18-2008, 09:15 PM
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How exactly does this work? I will have to look again I thought the screw in the rear of the trigger assembly went into the rear hole in the receiver. Does that screw not determine front o rear alignment of the trigger assembly?

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Originally Posted by singleshotcajun View Post
I don't have a pcture yet but about the initial take up. I have been setting actions back when I bed them. You always have a gap in between front of the receiver and the stock, I push the receiver back as far as it will go in the stock and fill in the gap with Devcon,J&B Weld or whatever I am using at the time, this alone will cut down on trigger creep and usually eliminates the need to build up the trigger nose. Remember to always use a good release agent on the receiver, I like moly grease.
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  #141  
Old 11-18-2008, 09:23 PM
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That does give me an idea, I could put a set screw in from the top that would rest on the middle pin when the trigger is not pressed. Take the trigger off and an easy adjustment say 1/4 turn at a time. Then do the trigger stop adjustment through the rear of the trigger guard. Now I am adjustable in both directions. I know what I am doing tomorrow.

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Originally Posted by ArrowDodger View Post
Expect ALOT of tweaking no matter how you do that. Your idea is a different approach but I would think it would be the toughest yet to tweak with a bushing. To go along with your direction, if there was a set-screw that was tapped thru the trigger (wrench access from the finger window) angling up, and you could bear off the back-side of that pin (somehow) THAT would be the "cats behind" !!
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  #142  
Old 11-18-2008, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher_2 View Post
As for the trigger and adding JB weld, anyone tried modifying the second hole inside the trigger. This would be the hole for the pin that limits the travel in both directions. I am thinking of putting a bushing inside that hole it would reduce the trigger travel in both directions. It wouldn't allow you to pull up as far, and would not allow the trigger to go as far back on return.
Drilling and tapping a plastic TG or trigger continues to weaken an already fragile design.

You could use JB weld on the inside front of the larger hole and use a rat tail file or an sharp razor knife to "tweak" the over travel until it is to your liking.

Or, you could just JB weld the hole shut and redrill to suit.

Just a thought.
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  #143  
Old 11-19-2008, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher_2 View Post
How exactly does this work? I will have to look again I thought the screw in the rear of the trigger assembly went into the rear hole in the receiver. Does that screw not determine front o rear alignment of the trigger assembly?
With the action and barrel screws loose you should have back and forth play, moving the barreled action backwards will remove some or all creep in the trigger, try it. For the action to realiably stay in this position you fill in the gap in front of the receiver.
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  #144  
Old 11-19-2008, 07:10 AM
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Great idea !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher_2 View Post
That does give me an idea, I could put a set screw in from the top that would rest on the middle pin when the trigger is not pressed. Take the trigger off and an easy adjustment say 1/4 turn at a time. Then do the trigger stop adjustment through the rear of the trigger guard. Now I am adjustable in both directions. I know what I am doing tomorrow.
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  #145  
Old 11-26-2008, 09:31 PM
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I now have a 2.0 - 2.2 lb pull I did some tinkering listed below. With the exception of the trigger spring all springs are stock.
  • Cleaned the rough spots off the edge of the trigger with a fine stone.
  • Replaced the trigger return spring with a spring from a floppy disk
  • Completely took the fire control group part
  • Cleaned up all the hammer surface of ridges etc with 1 micron lapping film
  • Cleaned up the sear / hammer engagement surfaces with a fine stone.
  • Rounded the sharp leading edges of the sear / hammer engagement surfaces so they no longer dig into each other.
  • Cleaned up the firing pin surfaces with 1 micron lapping film
  • Cleaned up all other moving surfaces that touched a moving part.
  • Cleaned up the bolt surfaces with 1 micron lapping film.
  • Cleaned up the inside of the receiver the best I could I ended with 1000 grit wet and dry.
  • Sprayed every part with LocTite Molybdenum spray prior to assembly.
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  #146  
Old 11-27-2008, 09:32 AM
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Nice work. Did you try the trigger set-screw? Um... so you did nothing to the sear torsion spring? I thought that would be a big "gainer" in the quest to reduce pull force.
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  #147  
Old 11-27-2008, 03:19 PM
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I did not do anything with the springs in the fire control group. I wanted to clean everything up and coat with molybdenum, before I made any other changes. The two items listed below helped helped the most during fitting.

# Cleaned up the sear / hammer engagement surfaces with a fine stone.
# Rounded the sharp leading edges of the sear / hammer engagement surfaces so they no longer dig into each other.

Also the fire control group is not that hard to put together or get apart. I took pictures of everything before I started. Then I made sure I understood how the parts actually worked.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ArrowDodger View Post
Nice work. Did you try the trigger set-screw? Um... so you did nothing to the sear torsion spring? I thought that would be a big "gainer" in the quest to reduce pull force.
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  #148  
Old 11-30-2008, 08:26 PM
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WOW, this is a gold mine of info!! Thanks to all who have gone before and shared.

My pull guage only reads to 72 ounces, and tops out around where 80 oz would be. My trigger started out substantially heavier than this; I will guess around 88 ounces (5.5lbs).

I began by cutting 1.5 coils off the hammer spring. Helped a little; got me down to maybe 80 oz.

Tweaked the sear spring. Helped a little more; got me down to about 72oz.

Then I used a Dremel with a fine buffing wheel to polish the sear/hammer interface, and weakened the trigger return spring. This has got me down to about 56oz (3.5lbs). Muuuuch better! I may just stop here, especially until I can fire it and make sure I haven't goofed anything up.

Couple questions:

One - forgive me if it's dumb - Tell me more about the trigger stop set screw mod. I know what overtravel is, but I never thought about it in connection with these .22's. How will it help exactly?

Two - This process involves a lot of dry firing. Do you guys recommend removing the firing pin, using an empty case, etc, or just let it rip?

Thanks again!!
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  #149  
Old 11-30-2008, 08:54 PM
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Dry firing will ruin the firing pin and the chamber face. I use spent cases for checking pull. The overtravel limiting screw helps with follow through, less chance of pulling shots .
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  #150  
Old 12-06-2008, 05:10 PM
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Try some molybdenum lubricant on the sear / hammer surface you polished up and see what happens. KG10 is one product name I used a spray can from Loctite.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dixiedawg View Post
WOW, this is a gold mine of info!! Thanks to all who have gone before and shared.

My pull guage only reads to 72 ounces, and tops out around where 80 oz would be. My trigger started out substantially heavier than this; I will guess around 88 ounces (5.5lbs).

I began by cutting 1.5 coils off the hammer spring. Helped a little; got me down to maybe 80 oz.

Tweaked the sear spring. Helped a little more; got me down to about 72oz.

Then I used a Dremel with a fine buffing wheel to polish the sear/hammer interface, and weakened the trigger return spring. This has got me down to about 56oz (3.5lbs). Muuuuch better! I may just stop here, especially until I can fire it and make sure I haven't goofed anything up.

Couple questions:

One - forgive me if it's dumb - Tell me more about the trigger stop set screw mod. I know what overtravel is, but I never thought about it in connection with these .22's. How will it help exactly?

Two - This process involves a lot of dry firing. Do you guys recommend removing the firing pin, using an empty case, etc, or just let it rip?

Thanks again!!
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