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Turner Bench Rest build

28K views 321 replies 33 participants last post by  Markbo 
#1 · (Edited)
A couple months ago Turmite, Mike Turner, and I started a collaboration on a new, to Turner Customs, version of a bench rest stock. A few days later Mike sent me this CAD rendering of the stock.



Without going into a lot of details; mill problems frustrated Mike for the next 2 months or so. Now it seems that the problem are behind him.

This morning Mike sent me these photos of the first stock cut with the new program. There are a couple things to say about this specific stock.

It's not available for sale. I bought it!
It would be considered 'paint grade' due to being slightly off center. Procedures contributed to the mis-alignment.
The stock was sanded with 80 grit to blend some tool marks.









Ill be adding dimensions and weight as soon as I have them available.
Fore end width 3"

Copied directly from Turmite's email.
Length overall 32.5" more or less
LOP 13.5 before buttplate addition
Fore end height 1.725
Butt stock height 3.72
Fore end Length 10.356
Weight??? Unfinished. No idea, but guessing about 3.5 lbs

I'll post more photos when I have the stock in hand and mount one of my barreled actions in the stock.

Then bedding, finishing maybe even some shooting results.

Down the line a bit, there will be a second stock and barreled action added to this thread. It will be cherry, figured maple and spalted sycamore.

***11/22/2014***
The stock shown above arrived at my place this week. Work has kept me from making any progress until today.
The stock will be bedded and pillared. I am using a combination of Raven Eye pillar bedding parts, along with some generic hardware bought at McMaster Carr.

Here is a photo of the parts used to attach the rear tang. This one is a bit different as the screw comes up from the bottom.
The bit on the left is a binding post nut. They come in various sizes and threads. I picked a 10/24 as I wanted the bottom OD, of the binding post nut, to fit the ID of the rear tang. Some filing is required.
The other parts are from the Raven Eye kit. I didn't use the Raven Eye pillar as I had another laying around that required less filing.



This is the bottom view showing the escutcheon and the bolt.



Here is the home made pillar sitting in place.



Nothing is glued in yet. But soon.
More when something happens. Waiting on some pieces.

***11/25/2014***
Here is a photo of the receiver inletting as the stock comes off the mill.


The inletting is very tight when using a Kidd receiver, not so much so when using a Ruger receiver.

***11/28/2014***
Here is how I modified the use of the Kidd rear tang so that you insert the screw from the bottom of the stock. If anyone decides to do this modification one word of advice. Be sure of your thread sizes and O.D.s when ordering the parts. I haven't researched the availability and compatibility of these parts with the standard take down screw or it's escutcheon. Just make sure your bits with fit together.
First a photo of the finished product.



Up above I have a photo of the pieces needed to attach the rear tang from the bottom. Here is a photo with a bit of narrative about each part.



One key piece to this puzzle is the Binding Post Barrel/Nut. The one shown has a barrel O.D. just under .250 but the screw head is too large to fit into the Kidd rear tang. Chuck the part up in the drill press and turn the screw head down until it fits nicely. Once the Barrel/Nut fits correctly, set it aside for a while. You want it to end up like this.



You now need to get the stock ready for the parts.
First operation is to locate and drill the hole from the rear tang down through the stock. Just be careful, use masking tape, when drilling out the bottom of the stock. I used a small drill, 1/8 ", to mark the hole, then opened it up as necessary. You need to do the following in whatever order makes sense to you;

1. Enlarge the bottom of the hole for the escutcheon of your choice.
2. If you use the Raven Eye escutcheon, as I did, you will need to open the hole for the larger screw to pass through.
3. Drill the thru hole for the rear tang screw.
4. Enlarge the top of the hole to fit the pillar you are going to modify in the next step.
5. Turn down and shorten the pillar to fit. Again I chucked the pillar in the drill press and turned it down. Then I used the ol' Dremel tool to shorten the pillar to the correct length. Trim and try it, repeat until golden.
6. Dry fit it all together. Remember the height of the rear pillar must be correct for the front pillar. Don't go with the epoxy too soon. Get it all to fit correctly first. The height of the rear pillar and the front pillar are the critical points. Be sure both pillars are slightly proud of the wood.
When everything fits correctly you can epoxy in the escutcheons, pillars and any spacers you may have needed. You want solid metal from the escutcheon to the top of the pillar.
7. At some point, you need to rough up the inside of the rear tang where the barrel, of the Binder Post Nut, will go. Also, rough up the barrel nut. Epoxy this part in place inside the rear tang. Release agent on the screw, some spacers and pull it all tight. The rear tang does not need to be on the receiver to do this.
Line up the screw driver slot when you epoxy the nut in. It will look lots better than if askew. Note the one shown in the photo above is not glued in yet.

That is kind of it for the rear tang mods. I'm starting to work on a butt plate at the moment. Here is a photo of where I am at the moment, no sanding has been done, nothing has been epoxied in other than the binding post nut.



***11/29/2014***
I have this stock sanded to 220 and have fashioned a butt plate and fore end cap along with a black plastic spacer for each end. The photo below showing the stock as it sits today, the stock has been wiped with mineral spirits for the photo.



A couple tips, for those who will end up finishing one of these stocks.

A rattle can of Rustoleom paint has the exact radius needed to sand the concave surface between the flat on the bottom of the fore end and the top of the stock. A piece of the correct grit sandpaper and some masking tape are all you need. Well, plus the elbow grease.



A second tip. When fitting a butt plate, pistol grip cap or fore end cap; if the stock has any irregularities, like high spots, that keep the plate from getting perfectly flat contact, you don't have to get out the cross cut saw to clean it up. Use either your dremel with a sanding drum or a very sharp paring chisel and relieve some of the wood in the affected area. Just, be sure to, stay inside of the edge by 1/4 " and trim away. In a minute or so you will have a perfect fit for your plate.

Speaking of plates. Butt plate and fore end cap with black plastic spacers.




It's bedding time for this stock. The bedding discussion, for whatever it is, will be in Post #2.
 
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#155 ·
I've been nudged :bash: by a couple folks to get an update into this thread.
With cold weather, for Arizona, and way too much work I haven't accomplished a whole lot.

The stock has been bedded, finished and dinged already. It is a working rifle, not something to look at. I don't have any photos that are better than what is in this thread or on Mikes blog. Actually, Mike has more photos than are here.

I have been shooting the rifle with the Lilja barrel and the Ezell tuner whenever I get the chance. 50 yard 5 shot groups in the .2xx and .3xx range are fairly common. But then I'll get something in the .65x range with no explanation. Even with this fantastic stock that Mike created I'm still tuning the rifle and the tuner.

Now about that stock. It truly is a fantastic stock. It tracks better than I would have ever imagined. With the Lilja 21" barrel and the Ezell tuner installed the balance point of the rifle is right at 3" forward of the main action screw. I would imagine, although I have not verified this, that with a Kidd 20" barrel it would balance right about the front of the trigger group.

I have determined that the rifle likes to have the front rest about 4" to 4 1/2" back from the front of the stock and the rear rest, mechanical in my case, right in the middle of the butt stock. A bit of change either way does not mess things up. It is pretty flexible as to position on the rest.

The only other thing, that I can think of, that might be interesting is that I have never fired this rifle with anything other than my trigger finger touching the rifle. I have no idea what it might do with a firm or medium grip on the stock.

I'll post more when I have something worth posting.
 
#156 ·
IMO, this stock really does not lend it's self to being held. Perhaps I will have a different opinion when I get mine.

I have not held a stock on a rifle that was 'benched up' since I watched the moderator of the Annie and Kimber forum shoot my build 'Rex-A-Cuda' to a much higher level than I ever did at the time, using the 'pinch' method on the trigger. That rifle is Not a bench gun in any sense of the word either.

Bill, it will be interesting to see how the rifle groups, should you decide to hold it. I would be very interested in a post that covers that.

Hope all is well with you and yours.
Respectfully,
Scott
 
#158 ·
IMO, this stock really does not lend it's self to being held. Perhaps I will have a different opinion when I get mine.

I have not held a stock on a rifle that was 'benched up' since I watched the moderator of the Annie and Kimber forum shoot my build 'Rex-A-Cuda' to a much higher level than I ever did at the time, using the 'pinch' method on the trigger. That rifle is Not a bench gun in any sense of the word either.

Bill, it will be interesting to see how the rifle groups, should you decide to hold it. I would be very interested in a post that covers that.

Hope all is well with you and yours.
Respectfully,
Scott
Scott,
Remember I'm a 75 year old. Bad eyes and sometimes a bit shaky. That is the main reason I use free recoil exclusively.
I'd be very interested in seeing how the rifle shoots for someone that really knows how to shoot. Maybe, on your trip west. :snipersmi

A Square 10,
Thanks for the comment. I try to keep it light and informative when I have something worth sharing.
I'm anything but an expert and only have a couple years experience with 1022s. Consider anything you read here to be worth exactly what it cost you.:D:D
 
#159 ·
Bill,
Although I am 18yrs younger, I too, have only marginal eyes and a shake, though the shake is mostly in my left hand. This does not affect my bench shooting as I am right handed. I still try to give as little contact to the rifle as possible, and every rifle I have prefers that method. I do touch the rear of the trigger guard with my thumb.

As far as being a good shot, I only consider myself middle of the road. Not bad, not particularly good, especially at 50. Please remember, I have only been doing this about the same amount of time as you.

This summer will be a good time. I am sure both of us will learn from each other and some good groups will be shot. While I am in the area I plan on a trip to the Lapua test facility as well. I am sure that will include the back side of my trip to Washington with at least a case of great ammo for my last build, riding in the back seat of the Super Sport, keeping it cool.

Look forward to the 'held' report on the Turner/Lilja build.

As Always.....Respectfully Yours,
Scott
 
#160 ·
I was able to get to Ben Avery range this morning to do some tuner testing on the Turner/Kidd/Lilja/Ezell build.
The groups below are all 3 shot groups except for the last group(22) is 10 shots. This was all shot with Eley Club.
The gibberish on top of each bull is my notes as to how the tuner was set for that group. If you have an Ezell tuner on hand you can probably figure it out.

There were 3 groups, in the first 10 on the target, that warrant further testing. Groups 1, 3 and 6.
Today I worked with the Group 1 setting which is the fully turned in, or base, setting on the tuner. Bulls 11 to 20 are testing settings close to the base setting. Group 14 looked fairly good so I set the tuner back to that on groups 21 and 22.
Group 21 looked OK so I started shooting group 22. When I had 4 shots in one hole I decided to go for the full 10 rounds. Getting all 10 rounds into a .182 CTC group at 50 yards with Club pleased me to no end.



We might have a shooter one day. :)
I shot 4 ARA targets at this setting. Of course, Club cooperated normally. Numerous flyers. The targets scored 1484, 1495, 1535 and 1695-9X. Certainly nothing to win a match with but considering the ammo used I'll take them.

One thing learned today, this rifle does not like to be fired when the barrel is cold. It was 60* while I was shooting and the rifle required at least 10 rounds pretty rapid fire to get it warm enough to get some consistency.

As an aside, I talked with Mike this morning and things are progressing pretty well. He completed cutting one stock on the new machine. He's not totally satisfied with it but then only 1 half was cut on the new fixture that holds and positions the blank for the mill to do it's cutting.
He was a bit zombied out due to lack of time at home and not a lot of sleep but he sure was up about the progress and the next few days.
 
#168 ·
As an aside, I talked with Mike this morning and things are progressing pretty well. He completed cutting one stock on the new machine. He's not totally satisfied with it but then only 1 half was cut on the new fixture that holds and positions the blank for the mill to do it's cutting.
He was a bit zombied out due to lack of time at home and not a lot of sleep but he sure was up about the progress and the next few days.
Hello fellow addiction members!:D

I wanted to drop in long enough to let you all know what is happening in the transition, and the making of several bench stocks. The plans etc. that I hope will expedite the deliver (I know,,,,,,that is an oxy moron) of these long overdue stocks. I also want to thank everyone for the great show of patience that you have shown, and in doing so, the kindness you have extended to me. I promise you, it is not and will not be without reward.

I also want to openly thank Bill for his phone call this morning that did several things for me. First, it helped me stay awake while driving.......those of you who have not had the privilege of talking with Bill in person, needs to buy a ticket! He is quite the funny man, and will keep you hanging on his every word. The story about the dinged coned breech is both sad and humerous when listening to him tell the story, and some of the back and forth between he and the LGS......especially when he tells how he sees this damage all come about!

Second, his compliment on the tracking ability of this stock made my day! It is hard, even with cnc to make a stock that tracks correctly and straight every time it recoils! According to Bill, this one does.

Last, is the incredible encouraging words Bill uses when he talks with me on the phone. I will say though, that he is not the only one as there have been many that have either called or emailed urging me not to give up......that the water has broke!:D

Now a little about Shreveport. I pulled in on Monday afternoon around 1:30pm and immediately went to work doing the final assembly on the fixture. That took the rest of the day so early the next morning I loaded the walnut stock of the first run of three that was used in the video into fixture Version 2. I ran a new program running the length of the stock instead of across it like in the video. I also bumped the carve speed to 300 ipm. This cut the carve time per side down by 30% which is a good thing. Anyway, I knew there was going to be a step left over between the two different programs so was expecting that. Wasn't expecting how much it was, but that said, the stock still has enough meat on it to produce a number one stock. So far, by the grace of God, I have not totally killed a blank yet with the new machine.

Fast forward to the second run of the day on Tues. The run was a spalted sycamore and was for the bolt action stock rather than the 10/22. I had several "spare" blanks in this style and I had none left that were spares for the 10/22. Anyway, I ran the program, or rather 4 programs as I chose this time to test from all four sides of the stock to see if I got a better result. What I discovered was I still had what appeared to be a nasty step in the butt stock where it appeared that the spindle was not centered over the centerline of the blank!

So, the owner of the company told me he would bring his mag base Starrett dial indicator that was accurate to .0001". I told him that would be close enough!

Next morning, which would have been Wed morning, we set the fixture on the machine, indicated it right where it sat and discovered the front pin was to the right side of the stock by .007". That is looking from the butt stock end. We shimmed it over the .007" and retrammed it. This time we were off by .0005" and I told him we could live with that! :D We checked the height of the center of the pins and they were within .001" of the same. We then checked for level on the two sets of twin pins for both stock butt ends. Bewteen the two pins we found a .002" difference in height, and between the other two the same. The last thing I check was to see if the work station offset I had put in the controller was indeed centered over the axis on the fixture as well as being centered with the model in my cad program. To my delight, it was dead on accurate.

So I carved the first stock after having double checked and this time I used a another blank that was not sold. Ran the stock from 4 sides again after changing tool paths some. Still had the offset so I spent the night with my brother, came back into the shop early Thur morning and connected via skype chat to the writer/developer of my cam software. We spent from 9:30 am until 2 pm trying to sort out the problem. Long story short, I re wrote the took paths, this time from two sides only, changed the oundery curves or "fence" to keep the tool paths where they were suppose. This time I load a beautiful figured cherry blank into the fixture and run the new program. The result was the smoothest stock so far, and looks like I finally have it. OOPSSSSSS.....Got a call from the gentleman who bought my used equipment telling me his plans had changed and wanted to be at my shop on Sat morning or noon time, to load the machine and other equipment so he could take off early Sunday morning to where he lives, which is in West Texas!:D That narrows it down! Anyway, I knew there was a ton of stuff that had to be re arranged before we could load the machine so I shut down the stock carving until early next week.

I am 99.99999% sure we have the bugs worked out of the stockmaking on this new machine. Because of that, I have already got some folks in place to help me with the finishing, sanding and polishing on all the finished stocks.

Thank all of you who have ordered, those that are watching, and those that are waiting.....to order!

Mike
 
#161 ·
.182" 10 shot group @ 50 shot with Eley Club, and you think you MIGHT have a shooter???

I'm really interested in seeing what this rifle will do once you really get it dialed in with more consistent ammo!

:bthumb::bthumb::bthumb:

DrGunner
 
#162 · (Edited)
Thanks Dr.G.
I get really frustrated when a rifle will shoot groups and then you try bulls and the darn flyers crop up. Probably more the 'jerk' behind the trigger than the ammo. Thats why I say 'might'.

Here are a couple photos for your, hopefully, enjoyment.

First is the Turner/Kidd/Lilja/Ezell build with it's new buddy. The new guy is a Falcon action, Shilen barreled, Jewell trigger with a Harrel tuner on a McMillan Edge stock. The rifle was originally built by Jeff Madison and then re-barreled and tuned by Richard Gorham. I might post a target once I learn how to drive the thing. I haven't shot it yet as my LGS, bless them, dry fired the rifle and put a large divot in the cone breach. I was so, so pleased with that.



Next is the old standby Somethin Else, scopeless, with the Falcon rifle.


I know this isn't a bolt rifle forum but I didn't think anyone would mind seeing something different on occasion. I won't let it happen again.
 
#166 ·
I know this isn't a bolt rifle forum but I didn't think anyone would mind seeing something different on occasion. I won't let it happen again.
Bill,

As far as posting the bolt gun, don't worry. I may feel slightly responsible for that. Our PM's and my excitement about that gun may, or may not, have had a little of your interest that prompted your post. I know you wanted to show it off regardless........for very good reason. That is a pure and true small bore Bench Rest rifle. No flies on that bad boy.

I know this it is not a bolt gun sub-forum, but several here have posted their 'other' guns, including our fine and respected moderator. No harm, no foul......IMO! I am sure others that follow similar interests will feel the same.

I can not tell you how happy I am that you are getting the current clone build sorted out. It is frustrating and at times, depleting, when a rifle that should shoot lights out, screws with 'ya and wants to test your fortitude to continue with it. I know, I own one.

As Always,
Scott
Oh the HORROR!!!!
 
#163 ·
Bill,
You know, or should, how much I respect you. Your card with the 10 shot group is fabulous. Just plain over the top. Great shooting sir. A good lot of Club will shoot. I have shot some nice groups with it.

As far as posting the bolt gun, don't worry. I may feel slightly responsible for that. Our PM's and my excitement about that gun may, or may not, have had a little of your interest that prompted your post. I know you wanted to show it off regardless........for very good reason. That is a pure and true small bore Bench Rest rifle. No flies on that bad boy.

I know this it is not a bolt gun sub-forum, but several here have posted their 'other' guns, including our fine and respected moderator. No harm, no foul......IMO! I am sure others that follow similar interests will feel the same.

I can not tell you how happy I am that you are getting the current clone build sorted out. It is frustrating and at times, depleting, when a rifle that should shoot lights out, screws with 'ya and wants to test your fortitude to continue with it. I know, I own one.

As Always,
Scott
 
#164 ·
Bill,

I can not tell you how happy I am that you are getting the current clone build sorted out. It is frustrating and at times, depleting, when a rifle that should shoot lights out, screws with 'ya and wants to test your fortitude to continue with it. I know, I own one.

As Always,
Scott
All I can say is Amen. Frustration vs fortitude says it all.
Glad ya enjoy the photos.:)
 
#169 ·
He remembers better when he's awake and writing than when he's driving, sleeping and talking all at the same time. I never heard about the 2nd and 3rd stocks this morning. I knew he was only half there. :sleeping::sleeping:
 
#170 · (Edited)
I just read something interesting

Back in Post # 160, where I posted the target shot yesterday, I complained about the 'flyers' when switching from groups to bulls.

I just read an interesting thread on ********** . Here is a link. 'w w accuracy' just remove the 2 spaces.

http://www.**********.com/showthread.php?3331-no-wind-mystery

I recommend you read the above post and look at the photos before you try to understand the ramblings below in this post.

This thread talks about a 'no wind mirage NWM' condition. I can think of nothing that would better explain the results I saw yesterday than this 'NWM' condition.

It was 60* to 65* with zero wind yesterday. Perfect conditions on would think. Well, maybe not.

When you shoot groups do they sometimes change POI relative to POA when you start a new group. Mine do. With this NWM that change in POI could be explained. Nice groups are not as likely to be affected by NWM because you don't change the POA between shots. Well you shouldn't anyway. I usually just return to battery and fire the next round.

But when you go to shooting bulls you move POA between shots. Looking at the targets I shot yesterday I can see 3, 4 and sometimes more shots in a row that are right where my POA would be. Then, with nothing changed but the POA up pops that 'flyer'. Was it a flyer or was it NWM affecting the POA. The post on ********** shows photos that show the POA moving about 1/2 the width of the 50 ring on an ARA target. That is without moving the rifle on the rest.

The bad thing about the post on ********** is that I didn't see a solution for the problem.

I'm drifting my own thread a bit but feel the info is worth the drift. If, by some chance, the discussion gets continued we can start a new thread.
 
#172 ·
Bill,
I think I am picking up some of what you are putting down, as I feel I have had the same thing happen to me. When I click on the link though, I get nothing and I really don't understand the remove the spaces or "*******" thing. Any help brother? I would like to look into this more, but need more info.

Thanks.........Scott
 
#174 ·
Mark,

It could very well be a lube thing. At our range we get about a 15 minuted firing period alternated with a 10 to 15 minute cease fire. I could see the lube cooling or solidifying during the cease fire. I only fed it Eley Club during this session so there wasn't a brand, i.e. lube, change during the session.
My other rifle, with a longer barrel of same diameter, hasn't shown the problem. But, I don't know whether that is germain to the situation or not. Different brand and length of barrels might make it an apples and oranges comparison.

And, later in this thread I talked about the no wind mirage situation. Maybe the barrel doesn't care about the heat or lube but the NWM was the gremlin.
So many variables I'm not sure, exactly, how to go about eliminating them.

Thanks for the thoughts, any more you have are very welcome. :t
 
#175 ·
Mark and Bill- I think you are BOTH correct. My semi autos always group better once warmed up, think small engine. I copied the information below from another website several years ago, and while some of it does not apply as it refers to Mach transition and resultant destabilization of the projectile, much of it doesn't apply and is relevant:

COLD WEATHER SHOOTING

Cold air is typically dry, and thus much more dense than warm or humid air. Higher humidity means less dense air.

Denser air means higher drag, which means the bullet slows sooner, or in less distance which in turn means it drops more.

The cold air will not appreciably affect drop due to gravity as the distance it has to drop doesn't allow it to reach or even get near terminal velocity in that axis. It's forward motion is far more susceptible to the higher drag effects of denser air.

Bullets entering the transonic speed range encounter a rapid shift of the CP forward which can destabilize a bullet. This shift and the effect are much more pronounced in dense air.

The combined effect of the denser air means the bullet slows sooner, reaches transonic speed sooner and if the bullet tumbles in the transition that spikes dynamic drag and really shortens it's range.

To add to that, temperature affects pressures. Barrel temp and powder temp are separate variables, but barrel temp is the most prominent.

However, the first shot from a cold gun and cold ammo will see a fair drop in chamber pressure, which can translate in lower muzzle velocity, which will further compound the drop issue in cold air.
 
#177 ·
Yeah, yeah-

Apologies, for a second there I thought it would be helpful to post some info that is relevant to all the poor, unwashed masses who trugde through the snow to set targets because we aren't fortunate enough to live at the center of the universe where the weather is always perfect.

:D
 
#178 ·
Well Doc when we're about 4 months into 100°/100% days with 2 more to go and sweating so much I cant see through the scope Ill let you know how that perfect weather is working out for us down here. :star:
 
#183 ·
Thats the % = humidity. I always say SE Texas is a great place to live. If you're a fern. Heat index (like opposite of windchill) is commonly 120°+. In addition to having 3 fans in my workshop I also have a portable air conditioner.

It wont cool the space but I let it blow directly on me. Never tried to drag it to the range....I'd need a loooong extention cord. :D
 
#185 · (Edited)
Mike sent me some photos today. This one should be pretty once sanded and finished.

I'm just going to cut and paste from Mikes email and let him do the talking.

This first shot shows what I have been battling over the carving of 5.5 stocks. This was the worst of the lot with a total offset of .168". Believe it or not, after taking the offsets of both sides, I may still be able to salvage this stock. If you look at the bottom of the fore end and see the curl, you know why!!!


This next shot shows the butt end of the good stock, and yes, there is some wood left on the top side.
I did this on purpose to keep the cutter from making a flat while cutting from both sides, and this is using
a tool path that cuts across the stock for only a small portion of the top of the butt, and will be seen in
one of the other photos. Please notice the lamination joint just above the bottom of the butt stock.


This next shot shows the opposite side of the good stock. Please notice the laminate joint
above the bottom of the butt stock. This is the best we have ever got our laminations to being
exact when carved, and this required a good bit of rework of the mounting holes in the butt.


The next shot shows a portion of the top of the stock that has been magnified some to hopefully
show just how good this stock is! If you will notice, and do so very carefully, you will find that
there is almost no perceivable offset to be seen, and it is really hard to feel it.


This last shot shows the top of the butt where I left the wood to keep the flat from showing. If you will
pay close attention you will see the little .040" tool paths that were used to round the top of the
butt stock. In the future, I will actually carve these stocks from 4 sides instead of two. It does
two things. Number one, it makes the programs smaller, and two, it allows me a little more
control over the tool paths, and where they are located.
 
#186 ·
Hi Bill,

Thought I would stop by before I call it an evening. I just found out there is a 24 hr bug going around and I have it!

Bill to clarify just a little, the stock with 4 images is indeed the good stock, though many may look at it and say it needs a lot of work. It does, but it was a proof of concept stock for me to find out if we had indeed corrected the offset problem. The last image of the cherry stock illustrates all to well the problem I was having and that was the worst one of the 5 I have done, and maybe, just maybe there is still enough wood to clean it all up and still have a good stock.

The no offset stock has it's own problems but they are related to issues of my own making.......like a feedrate too fast and the wood too brittle.....got some tear out!

The wood is an African exotic called Shedua. It is indeed beautiful when finished as this one will be.

Bill, if it weren't for the fact I have only been home 6 days in 3 weeks, and did not have this bug, I would be headed back to Shreveport in the morning. Honestly, I think I have reached my body's limit and need a couple days to rest. Plan is to return to Shreveport on Tues with all new programs, etc and yes, to go into full production or at least until the blanks run out!

I have so looked forward to this day, as I know my patient waiting customers have. I hope to start sanding and putting finish on toward the end of next week and begin shipping the following.

Mike
 
#187 ·
Mike,
I redid the post. I didn't like the way I consolidated the pictures.
You may want to review your post now that I have the detail and the photos correctly oriented.
Sorry bud, I know you are under the weather.
 
#189 ·
Mark,

Best guess, it right now it is a guess, is first week of March. My problem is a fork lift large enough to put it in my shop. The one I have used in the past is no longer available. The man that owned it told me it had a broken??? and he was not going to fix it due to cost over worth!

I am currently trying to find another lift or some other means of sitting it in the shop other than having to go to one of the rental places........$1700 for a couple hours is too much for me to handle with everything else I have to absorb!

Mike
 
#190 · (Edited)
Progress, definitely progress.

I received an email from Turmite this morning with some photos.
I combines them into the following. The photos speak for themselves, at least, for those following the development of this stock.

It looks like I'll be fitting the action and bedding this stock in the next week or so. It is a maple/cherry/spalted sycamore laminate.

Starting to cut the laminated blank. In the lower half you can just begin to see some of the figure in the maple.



This photo shows a bit of Turmites Onsrud mill and below that a closer to finish shaped stock.

 
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