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Buckmark Disassembly and Reassembly - Detailed instructions with photos

26K views 14 replies 11 participants last post by  English 
#1 ·
Over the last 7 months, I've put together some rather detailed instructions for disassembly and reassembly of Browning Buckmark pistols, and they are now available on my website:

Disassembly - http://guns.dsttr.com/BuckmarkDisassembly.html
Reassembly - http://guns.dsttr.com/BuckmarkReassembly.html

These currently cover disassembly from a whole gun to removing the mainspring, and then reassembling it back to a whole gun. I'm still working on the sub-assemblies page, which will cover disassembly/removal and reassembly/installation of things like the trigger, firing pin, recoil spring, magazine, etc. I wanted to put these first two pages out there now, to get feedback (good or bad).

These instructions are intended to be used in three different ways, because people work differently, and may need more or less detail to help them:
1) You can scroll down the page and follow step-by-step
2) You can use the list of steps as your base, and click the link to each step as needed (there is a link back to the list of steps under each step detail section).
3) If you've done this a few times already, you can just use the list of steps as a guide, and never look at the details

Within each step detail section, there is text on the left, and thumbnails on the right. You can click any thumbnail to see the full-size image.

In the header of each step detail section is a "Show/Hide Info" button. Clicking that button will toggle between showing and hiding "extra" information. Examples of "extra" information would be discussion of difficulty removing the barrel screw, or alternative methods, or parts measurements, or photographs of each individual part. There's also a button at the top of the page (just below the list of steps) to show/hide the extra info in all the step detail sections at once.

At the top of the page, there are images that show the right and left sides of the Buckmark when partially disassembled, that label most of the parts. Within the relevant steps there are photographs of each part. Most of the parts photos show the part next to a ruler for size, and contain a slip of paper showing the part number and part name from the 2013 Buckmark Parts List on the Browning website. I'm hopeful that these parts photos will be useful to all kinds of Buckmark discussions, beyond just disassembly and reassembly (e.g. what's the part number for part X, or what does the disconnector look like). A third labeled photo at the top of each page shows the internal mechanism of the Buckmark, mounted on the outside of the frame. This shows the relationship of the sear, hammer, sear spring, hammer link, mainspring plunger, and mainspring.

I made an effort to make these pages usable on both a regular computer, and when viewed on a phone or other small screen. Using the buttons to hide the "extra" info makes it much more usable on a small screen.

Take a look, and please let me know what you think, either in this thread, or via the contact page on my website.

Thanks,
Dave
 
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#7 ·
I wanted to put these first two pages out there now, to get feedback (good or bad).

Take a look, and please let me know what you think, either in this thread, or via the contact page on my website.

Thanks,
Dave
Very nice work! I know how much work was involved in producing this and commend you for your effort.

Part of my job is producing detailed (1,000+ pages) assembly, rework, and calibration instructions for extremely complicated (1,500+ parts) electro/pneumo/hydro-mechanical assemblies.

Nolan
 
#8 ·
Thank you all for the kind words. I'm glad the effort shows.

It looks like Steve's Pages has gone to a subscription-only model. Bummer. But feel free to share those URLs with others. I put it out there for everyone to use.

Is there a process to request that this thread be made a sticky?

Thanks,
Dave
 
#9 ·
Steve's Pages is now a whopping $12 per year, done because the site had been subjected to repeated attempts at mass downloads coming from Russia, China, and the Middle East. Still, it would be great to make your hard work as available as possible.
Once again, thanks for the great work. :bthumb:

Send a P.M. to the Forum Moderator, that might get the ball rolling.
 
#12 ·
Gold target paint job

Hi,

Thank you so much for this creating and grouping this information.

I've just purchased a 1996 BM Gold target and it shoots great.
I plan on cleaning it as per GunBlue490's instructions (youtube) by using mineral spirits to clean and later wiping everything down with a lightly oiled cloth.

I'm just wondering if the "Gold" paint on this BM will fade when using these solvents and can't think of a better person to ask than yourself.

Thanks again!
 
#13 ·
Hi,

Thank you so much for this creating and grouping this information.

I've just purchased a 1996 BM Gold target and it shoots great.
I plan on cleaning it as per GunBlue490's instructions (youtube) by using mineral spirits to clean and later wiping everything down with a lightly oiled cloth.

I'm just wondering if the "Gold" paint on this BM will fade when using these solvents and can't think of a better person to ask than yourself.

Thanks again!
The short answer is... I don't know, because I've never tried to clean a gun with mineral spirits before.

For general cleaning of metal parts, I use Breakfree CLP and wipe off the excess, because it does an adequate job of cleaning, lubricating, and protecting. For parts that need more serious cleaning, I use a combination of physical cleaners (toothpicks, q-tips, paper towels, brushes, metal and plastic dental picks) and gun solvents (Hoppes #9, Rimfire Blend, Butch's Bore Shine) or spray cleaners (Gun Scrubber or automotive brake cleaner). Something like the frame doesn't need harsh cleaners; it's just not that dirty, so CLP works fine. For parts that need more serious lubrication, I use a variety of gun oils (Rem oil, Mil-Comm MC2500, FP-10) or gun greases (Mil-Comm TW25B, Brownell's Action Lube), or dry lube (Hornady One-Shot TAP-HD Dry Lube, powdered graphite), depending on what viscosity and composition I think will work best for that application. For parts that need more serious protecting, I use a dedicated protectant (Corrosion-X). After cleaning, I wipe down the outside with a silicone-impregnated cloth, to remove fingerprints, protect it, and just make it look nice.

If you really want to use mineral spirits, first test it out on a spot that won't normally be seen, like under the grips.

Dave
 
#14 ·
Hi Dave,

Thanks for sharing your routine!
I will try the solvent on the bottom of the gold rail first.

I am intrigued by the above YT channel, please check it out if you have the time. His credentials are rock solid and he claims that all you need is mineral solvents and very little mineral oil to keep any gun like new for many generations. I'm am going to try this.
All comments on the video's are positive and sceptics are quickly converted...

He very much against using any grease, graphite and oil (except for the thinnest layer wiped on with a oiled cloth) on any part of a gun.

Just wanted to share that. If it's true that's a lot more time and money to use for shooting instead of cleaning. :)
 
#15 ·
A Great Resource

Dave, I was referred to your pages by "Remnar" whilst searching for pin punch sizes.

You have put in a lot of hard work and its excellent. Many thanks :bthumb:

I'm preparing to strip and clean mine, I have a very occasional problem with the trigger not going all the way back and engaging any ideas on what I should be looking for would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
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