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  #16  
Old 06-25-2013, 10:05 PM
arcticap
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That's a handsome Winchester 9422M.
Cleaning regimens can be very personalized. For instance, I wouldn't put a bronze brush through a rimfire barrel unless absolutely necessary, especially if it needs to enter through the muzzle end.
There could be a way to swab the barrel clean after every range session without ever using a brush. That's why there are solvents to remove copper fouling, and .22 WRM copper fouling is usually near zero to very minor.
Swab away but IMO don't use a brush unnecessarily and risk putting wear on the crown. I'll bet that more rimfire crowns get damaged by cleaning rods than by bullets simply being fired through them.

Last edited by arcticap; 06-25-2013 at 10:15 PM.
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  #17  
Old 06-26-2013, 10:27 AM
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The 9422 breaks down so that cleaning from the breech is easy to do.
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  #18  
Old 06-26-2013, 10:26 PM
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That's good. I didn't realize that.
But I would still avoid using brushes if possible due to when the bristles change direction which can also create additional pressure, and always in the same location.
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  #19  
Old 07-18-2013, 08:08 PM
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You guys have me a might confused. A couple of you say that you only do a "thorough" cleaning after accuracy diminishes, but you use something like a bore snake after each shooting session. Couple questions: First, when you use a bore snake, are you using a solvent on it, and if so, what? Second, I know a bore snake may not be the most thorough cleaning method, but it sure seems to me that it's taking out a very large percentage of fouling. To me it seems like it's efficient enough to pretty much "unseason" a bore. Am I missing something here?
So far, with my .22 mag and my .22 lr, all I do after a shooting is pull one dry patch through the bore with my home made weed eater string patch worm. That is, unless I'm changing ammo and want to start fresh.
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  #20  
Old 12-05-2013, 12:00 PM
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Well I finally got my rifle/scope .22mag combo up and running. Last weekend I shot about 70 CCI HP's though it. When I got it home a ran a tight patch with CLP through it a few times (a weedwacker string patch worm). That's it.

While this is an older rifle (1993), I bought it with a very low round count. So I suppose it is still breaking in, so to speak.

Maybe another 50 rounds or so and I will use a copper brush and Hoppes #9.

At that point I will just shoot it until the accuracy starts to drop off. I'll still run a CLP patch though it between shooting sessions though.

Sound like a good plan to you guys?
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Last edited by OldWolf; 12-05-2013 at 02:53 PM.
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  #21  
Old 12-05-2013, 01:31 PM
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I clean mine like I clean any c/f rifle, when i'm done using it.

I shoot my22 Hornet the most and using it as an example cause its the only gun I've had with Cu issues. It Cu fouled the most when the gun was new, now I shoot the daylights out of it and barely see signs of green on a patch. Also, at the most, only1 or 2 shots bring the barrel back to previous zero which isn't far off anyway.

IMO, as humble as it may be, a wet patch followed by a dry will not resovle a Cu fouling issue. Your cleaning rod, bore mops, solvents, and NEW brass brush are your friends in this case.

My preference is wetted mops with Hoppes an Kroil, brass brush, followed by dry patches. Oldtimers will tell you a Hornet is a finicky caliber. My opinion is once you find the load that the gun likes and you clean it well its a pleasure to shoot.
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  #22  
Old 12-05-2013, 03:04 PM
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But most certainly velocity is a factor of copper fouling. The 22 Mag with a 1900 fps 40 gr load will foul less than a 30 gr load at 2200 fps MV. Your Hornet tosses a 40 gr bullet around 3000 fps so I am implying that your fouling would be much more aggressive and quicker to occur than a 22 Mag.

So, bore brushing a 22 Mag after every outing may not be necessary I think. I am not prepared to say though that over cleaning is harmful to the 22 Mag barrel if proper techniques are used.
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  #23  
Old 12-06-2013, 08:53 AM
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I have a Chipmunk Hunter Pistol in 22 Mag. Absolutely love it.

Whenever I shoot it, I usually just run a bore-snake down it and clean any residue from the bolt / action area. I haven't seen any accuracy issues, but then again I have a red dot on it and I shoot at 25 yards with it.

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  #24  
Old 12-06-2013, 02:19 PM
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I keep the chamber clean on mine otherwise I treat it the same as my 22lr's . I shoot it until I see the accuracy fall off and that's around 200 rounds on my 22 mag . Also no copper fouling on mine . The 40grain CCI Maxi Mags are not that fast . If it gets a good cleaning its a nylon brush with Hoppes #9 followed by several dry patches pulled through with a Patchworm and a light oiled patch for long term storage .
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  #25  
Old 12-07-2013, 01:33 PM
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Huge difference between Mag and LR rifle needs, especially if you live in damp environments. Long rifle bullets are covered with a lube that does a pretty good job of protecting a rifle barrel from rust (I still clean them after a rain or other soaking). Mag bullets, like jacketed bullets used in centerfires, do not have this protective lube. I don't think that Mag barrels often need a lot of in-depth cleaning, but I like to coat them with a thin layer of CLP to protect against corrosion. A couple of wet patchess followed by a dry patch leaves enough protection without significantly effecting the first shot after such cleaning.
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  #26  
Old 12-08-2013, 06:37 AM
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I gave my 93 WMR BTVSS the JB bore paste treatment, following the directions on the can after the rifle had about 500 rounds through it.
My cleaning process prior to the treatment was a wet patch with Shooters Choice, followed by a couple of passes with a brass brush, then dry patches on a jag, then a lightly oiled patch to finish it up. It used to take 4-5 dry passes before there was no residue on the patches.
Now my cleaning consists of a wet patch on a jag, then 3 dry patches(no soil on the third patch), then the oiled patch.
My father pounded into my head that a clean gun was happy gun. I clean all my firearms after each shooting session (to different degrees depending on the gun). I just can't put one away dirty and feel comfortable with it.
Another bonus to the JB treatment was the improvement in accuracy by about 1/4" at 100 yards.
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  #27  
Old 12-08-2013, 07:16 AM
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I quit using the hard brushes and switched to the Montana X-treme nylons. The price is good and they are made well and do a great job of cleaning.

http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userse...earchscope=all

For my Bolt actions, I clean with a brush swipe or two of Hoppes, then patch thru til dry,,a single patch thru of Hoppe oil, I pull the patch and brushes at the muzzle,,so stuff doesn't get drug back thru. I clean the cleaning rods,brushes,jags intermittently or after I am done with CRC QD electrical cleaner.
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  #28  
Old 01-03-2019, 10:14 AM
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A rod from the muzzle is not the best way but sometimes it's the only way so,if it is use an aluminum rod or plastic coated Rod,I always use a military issue steel rod from the rear if possible from the muzzle with a bore guide if possible,no issues for me.As stated,.22LR. and .22 mag.while cousins,are a bit different one is at best copper washed lead,the other is copper jacketed.If new,a rifle barrel is tighter and rougher,,(microscopically,it will still be or should feel smooth as a babies behind )promoting fouling lead or copper , as it is shot and cleaned ,it gets polished and burnished eventually if properly cared for it picks up or rubs off less and less fouling,eventually it can wear out as anything rubbed enough can but for most of us this is not an issue,military,yeah,Some competitors yeah,most hunters,no so that's the life of a barrel in short.i have a rifle,Marlin 60 originally,I shoot at least 100 rounds a week through on average for 21 weeks a year I also shoot it the rest of the year informally,so more than 2100 reds a year for three years I clean it thoroughly every four to six weeks because of action fouling when I run a quick brush and patch through the bore ,fouling in the bore is not an issue and afterwards three shots will bring it back to the sight setting.this barrel shows no indication of wearing out with micro groove rifling,my other rifle is a bolt action CZ452, in .22 mag. I don't shoot it a lot except coyotes and varmints.it is essentially a new bore and a well made bore ,but when brand new 75 yds was 5/16" groups recently it's hard to claim 1 1/4" groups at 100 the bbl bore is tighter notably than my other .22's,so I AM suspecting copper fouling or maybe I just had the perfect ammo,I did not record the type I was using back the unfortunately but I have used Win,Fiocchi,CCI MAXI-MAG, AND FEDERAL BLUE BOX all had large groups at 100 ,I am gonna chemically and J B clean it and see if it makes a dif and meanwhile look up some Hornady primo ammo and see if copper is the culprit or an ammo issue,by the way ,any other candidates for hi grade .22mag ammo?
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  #29  
Old 01-03-2019, 10:17 AM
shootrj2003
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Sorry I have a habit of digging up old posts but it's a good topic.
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  #30  
Old 01-03-2019, 10:41 AM
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Do you guys get any copper deposits in your 22 WMR bores? I've never tried a copper cleaner in mine, but am tempted to do it and see if I get any blue stains on my patches.
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