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Model 352K - no fire and no feed

8K views 39 replies 10 participants last post by  L2ACR 
#1 ·
I just picked up an early Model 352 K. It is not firing, only very light strikes, barely a mark on a case. It also doesn't want to feed from the magazine.

It looked to be in pretty good shape, just a couple cracks and dings in the stock and missing swivels. I cleaned up the sprayed on clear paint, steamed out the dents, fixed the crack then gave it six coats of tru oil.




But, on tear down it had a broken firing pin. I ordered the pin from Numrich and found that it's "close", but not quite right. I broke out the vice and files and think I have it right, but it still doesn't make dents in the case.

I do have a question on just how the FP works on this model. It looks to me like it floats about 1/16th in the hole in the striker, but rather than being hit by the striker, it is carried back and then forward with the striker, then has to continue forward on it's own momentum for that 1/16th after the striker hits the back of the bolt, and then rebound to clear the bolt face.

FP Retracted
FP Extended

Can anyone confirm that, or is it actually supposed to extend forward of the bolt face any time the striker is forward. That seems like a bad idea, but I've seen guns with worse design "features".

I've included some pics in hopes that someone will spot something else wrong. My suspicion is falling on the striker/hammer spring. It is definitely shorter than shown in the drawings, but I'm not sure if it's enough to cause an almost non existent strike, the FP barely leaves a scratch on the case, no dent at all.





The lower FP is the new one from Numrich. I'm still polishing, but it slides freely in the track with no binding. There are two differences from the original, the transition one inch right of the tip is smooth now instead of a sharp angle, but that area doesn't contact any part of the bolt, I don't think it effects anything. But, at the right end, the overall length is the same (the original looks longer because the broken ends don't match), but the left side of the notch is about 1/16 further right on the original than on the new FP. This may be my problem, but it looks like that face doesn't contact the striker, only the tab at the very right end seems to engage the striker. Any opionions, or should I just get a new spring and hope that's it?

I'm also having a problem with feeding LR from the magazine. It works if I push up just a bit, but not with the mag down on the lock. I don't think pushing the mag up is the right fix, since it causes the guide tabs in the middle of the mag to hit the bottom of the bolt as it goes forward.





I suspect that someone has tweaked the feed lips, since they have plier marks on them. Can someone take a look at these pics and maybe post a pic or two of a mag that does feed correctly? The pickup tab on the bottom of the bolt looks good and the mag seems to lock into place solidly.

Thanks,

Bob
 
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#2 ·
Cutting down the spring is one way of lightning the trigger pull. Unfortunately, it also is a recipe for light hits by the firing pin. I would suggest that a new spring would help the situation.
Magazines can be tempermental. Someone probably bent the lips to help the feeding problem and ended up overdoing it. IIRC, they are made of a spring steel (altho not fully hardened and tempered) and can be difficult to adjust.
 
#3 ·
This might help...

This might help...

This is a comparison of the new and old style firing pins for most of the 3 series semi-autos, and the 2 series "New Haven" carbines which share the internals of the 3 series. The old style hammer and firing pin is on the left, the new style is on the right. At your first opportunity I would get the "new style" firing pin and hammer... Yes they have to be changed as a set, won't work otherwise. The new style is a much better design and MUCH less prone to breaking.
I will see if I can find the link to how to adjust the mag lips. Makes a HUGE difference when the mag lips are properly adjusted.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2576070&postcount=8
Thank JMJ aka Mossbergman for the info on adjusting the mag lips!!!
God Bless, Frank.
 
#5 ·
Thanks Frank,

Do you know off hand, or can you check either of the bolt/fp sets to see if the fp has about 1/16 complete free play?

It's hard to get good measurements from the picture, but it looks like they both work the way I thought, the fp is dragged back, then thrown forward with the striker and continues forward for about 1/16 to strike the case. It makes sense, since it leaves the fp free to move back if the bolt is closed on a live round.

I think I'm back to looking for a good striker/hammer spring, mine seems to be a bit short and more important, it looks like it's been stretched to reach that length after it broke off.

I'll have to add that new design to my plans, it does look like a much better setup. More than twice the metal at two critical points.

Going to have to spend some time with that info on adjusting the mag.

Bob
 
#6 ·
... But, on tear down it had a broken firing pin. I ordered the pin from Numrich and found that it's "close", but not quite right. I broke out the vice and files and think I have it right, but it still doesn't make dents in the case.

I do have a question on just how the FP works on this model. It looks to me like it floats about 1/16th in the hole in the striker, but rather than being hit by the striker, it is carried back and then forward with the striker, then has to continue forward on it's own momentum for that 1/16th after the striker hits the back of the bolt, and then rebound to clear the bolt face.

FP Retracted
FP Extended

Can anyone confirm that, or is it actually supposed to extend forward of the bolt face any time the striker is forward. That seems like a bad idea, but I've seen guns with worse design "features".

I've included some pics in hopes that someone will spot something else wrong. My suspicion is falling on the striker/hammer spring. It is definitely shorter than shown in the drawings, but I'm not sure if it's enough to cause an almost non existent strike, the FP barely leaves a scratch on the case, no dent at all.





The lower FP is the new one from Numrich. I'm still polishing, but it slides freely in the track with no binding. There are two differences from the original, the transition one inch right of the tip is smooth now instead of a sharp angle, but that area doesn't contact any part of the bolt, I don't think it effects anything. But, at the right end, the overall length is the same (the original looks longer because the broken ends don't match), but the left side of the notch is about 1/16 further right on the original than on the new FP. This may be my problem, but it looks like that face doesn't contact the striker, only the tab at the very right end seems to engage the striker. Any opionions, or should I just get a new spring and hope that's it?

Thanks,

Bob
Regarding the firing pin, I think your original FP is just a tad bit longer than your replacement pin, but a file can fix that. A file can also FUBAR it, so be careful!!!:rolleyes:
Look at your pic labeled FP extended. The firing pin cannot extend that far when it is assembled in the receiver as the tang on the top of the barrel will prevent the FP from extending past the end of the step on the front of the bolt. Take a good light and get a close look at the end of that tang on the barrel... you will probably see a vertical indentation that has been hammered into the center of the barrel tang by the FP. Use you 6" ruler to keep the FP even with the step on the front of the bolt and you should be able to see how much your FP protrudes past the bolt face. If you think the protrusion is too short, well that is where the file comes in. GO SLOWLY, you can always file a little more off, but its really hard to put the metal back on the FP if you know what I mean!!!:rolleyes: Dust down the large vertical shoulder on the front of the FP if you need more pin protrusion, but be careful and go SLOW!!!
Regarding the springs... they look correct. Your model has the "magic 3-way clip" so it needed a spring set that would allow a Short High Velocity to cycle the action. If it was a LR only model it would most likely have a longer main spring. (the larger dia. spring)
Keep us posted.
God Bless, Frank.
 
#7 ·
Regarding the firing pin, I think your original FP is just a tad bit longer than your replacement pin, but a file can fix that. A file can also FUBAR it, so be careful!!!:rolleyes:
Look at your pic labeled FP extended. The firing pin cannot extend that far when it is assembled in the receiver as the tang on the top of the barrel will prevent the FP from extending past the end of the step on the front of the bolt. Take a good light and get a close look at the end of that tang on the barrel... you will probably see a vertical indentation that has been hammered into the center of the barrel tang by the FP. Use you 6" ruler to keep the FP even with the step on the front of the bolt and you should be able to see how much your FP protrudes past the bolt face. If you think the protrusion is too short, well that is where the file comes in. GO SLOWLY, you can always file a little more off, but its really hard to put the metal back on the FP if you know what I mean!!!:rolleyes: Dust down the large vertical shoulder on the front of the FP if you need more pin protrusion, but be careful and go SLOW!!!

Keep us posted.
God Bless, Frank.
That may be a winner, I missed it when I was fitting the FP.

No problem with the go slow part, that FP needed lots of touching up.

The rear notch had a ledge left in, possibly for the model that it's actually supposed to fit? The whole thing was about .003 too thick, just enough that it wouldn't drop into the slot. The pin end extension was .004 too thick, so it dragged on the barrel tang until I thinned it down. All of the stamped edges looked like they had been cut with a dull cold chisel, not a sharp die.

If I do take too much off, I have lots of practice at using a hammer to "grow" the metal back. I've also been know to stretch wire when it's not quite long enough.

I use some old machinists blue and yellow markers to check fit. They're easier to clean up than most inks or dyes, just wipe with rubbing alcohol and it's gone.

Bob
 
#8 ·
Well, it sounded good.

I matched the new FP to the old one, no luck. I did measure before I started filing, and with the FP blocked at the end of the slot in the bolt, it did extend .06 into the head recess, the head space on this bolt measures .076, I'll work on that after I get it to fire.

So, after thinning the FP down another .004 to match the original, and then polishing everything it still doesn't leave more than a scratch on the case, even though it rattles back and forth if you tip the gun.

While staring, I noticed a wear mark on one side of the bolt. It looks like the sear is higher on the right side than the left. A bit more staring and I thought that maybe the sear was rotating the striker and binding the FP, so I leveled out the sear (it turned out to be the top surface, not the engagement surface), no help.

Finally drove a piece of wood toothpick in behind the FP, so it's locked forward, dropped in an empty case and pulled the trigger. Still just a bare scratch on the case, even though it should have had the full striker and spring hitting it, not just the FP momentum. Pulled the bolt, put my finger in front of the FP, pulled the striker back and let it go. (Guaranteed to draw blood on any other gun I have.) I couldn't even feel the hit, even though the FP was sticking out nearly a sixteenth inch.

So, a new main spring is on order from Numrich, along with some other goodies to round out the order.

Bob
 
#11 ·
352 firing pin

Bob--I am having the same issue with a 351c, Frank has given some advice similar as here---have gone through the same procdures you have, even the firing pin and the finger deal!!!!!---I never considered the spring issue--let us know the results with the spring change---this thing is about to drive me to drink!!:eek:
 
#12 ·
Finally got time to post, had a computer melt down over the weekend.

New main spring was definitely in order, the old one was missing about ten coils and had been stretched more than an inch to make up the missing length.

The bad news is that it didn't help. Still the same very light FP strike.

I've been over the original FP with digital calipers, can't find any difference that's more than .002, and that's probably from the broken end of the original being peened from firing.

I think I'm back to my original question, is the FP supposed to move freely about 1/16 inch? It looks to me like that's how the design works, the hammer caries the FP forward, then when it hits the bolt the FP continues forward another 1/16 on it's own momentum. That doesn't seem to be happening on mine or slickshots.

I've coated the FP and hammer with yellow spotting ink and can't find a binding spot, so I'm starting to wonder if it's time to just thin down the FP to let it rattle around, or if I need to switch to the new style hammer and FP.

I'd do that if I was sure it would fix this gun, but since I don't see what's stopping this old design from working, I'm not sure the new design would be anything except throwing parts at it.

Bob
 
#14 · (Edited)
Some more thoughts...

Some more thoughts on your light strike problem.

This top picture is of a chamber that was destroyed by an overly enthusiastic, but under-qualified amateur "gunsmith". This barrel has been relined, so that chamber is history. The point of interest is the "barrel tang" that helps stop the bolt and limits how far the firing pin can get to the end of the barrel. If you look at it closely you can see a shallow depression in the center of the barrel tang where the firing pin hits the tang and is stopped. I'll come back to this later.


The top bolt and firing pin should be very similar to the one in your 352. The bottom bolt and firing pin are from a 151/152. The 151's and 152's share the same bolt, hammer and firing pin!!! Note the length of the notches on the tops of the bolts in comparison to the length of the firing pin past the large 90 degree shoulder on both firing pins. Those "notches" on the tops of the bolts match the lengths of the "barrel tangs" on their respective actions


This picture is a comparison of the safety stampings on the top action vs none on the bottom action. The bottom action has a shallow dimple drilled into the receiver that has RED paint in it. It is hidden by the safety lever.
The point of interest is that on both actions you can see that the front of the hammer is resting directly on the back of the bolt.

The things that I would check...
1. Is the barrel tang somehow blocking the firing pins forward motion??? It is designed to do that, but not to the point that it will cause an insufficient pin strike. (I suspect it was designed that way to prevent damage to the chamber mouth from "dry firing".)
2. Does it look like the bolt is hitting the barrel tang, but NOT hitting the barrel face (aka chamber face) The the barrel tang may be too long. The semi-auto Mossbergs are a threaded fit to the receiver and they are TIGHT. If this is the problem it might be easier to file the part of the bolt that contacts the end of the barrel tang.
3. Related to 2 above... is the barrel tang too long???
4. With the hammer in the fired position. (aka against the back of the bolt.) Is there a gap between the front of the hammer and the back of the bolt ??? If there is a gap I would think that something is blocking the firing pin. However since you say there is some play where the end of the firing pin fits into the hammer, that play could hide a problem somewhere else.
Keep us posted!!! God Bless, Frank.
 
#15 ·
Pics deleted to make it easier to read.

Some more thoughts on your light strike problem.

This top picture is of a chamber that was destroyed by an overly enthusiastic, but under-qualified amateur "gunsmith". This barrel has been relined, so that chamber is history. The point of interest is the "barrel tang" that helps stop the bolt and limits how far the firing pin can get to the end of the barrel. If you look at it closely you can see a shallow depression in the center of the barrel tang where the firing pin hits the tang and is stopped. I'll come back to this later.

The top bolt and firing pin should be very similar to the one in your 352. The bottom bolt and firing pin are from a 151/152. The 151's and 152's share the same bolt, hammer and firing pin!!! Note the length of the notches on the tops of the bolts in comparison to the length of the firing pin past the large 90 degree shoulder on both firing pins. Those "notches" on the tops of the bolts match the lengths of the "barrel tangs" on their respective actions

This picture is a comparison of the safety stampings on the top action vs none on the bottom action. The bottom action has a shallow dimple drilled into the receiver that has RED paint in it. It is hidden by the safety lever.
The point of interest is that on both actions you can see that the front of the hammer is resting directly on the back of the bolt.

The things that I would check...
1. Is the barrel tang somehow blocking the firing pins forward motion??? It is designed to do that, but not to the point that it will cause an insufficient pin strike. (I suspect it was designed that way to prevent damage to the chamber mouth from "dry firing".)
2. Does it look like the bolt is hitting the barrel tang, but NOT hitting the barrel face (aka chamber face) The the barrel tang may be too long. The semi-auto Mossbergs are a threaded fit to the receiver and they are TIGHT. If this is the problem it might be easier to file the part of the bolt that contacts the end of the barrel tang.
3. Related to 2 above... is the barrel tang too long???
4. With the hammer in the fired position. (aka against the back of the bolt.) Is there a gap between the front of the hammer and the back of the bolt ??? If there is a gap I would think that something is blocking the firing pin. However since you say there is some play where the end of the firing pin fits into the hammer, that play could hide a problem somewhere else.
Keep us posted!!! God Bless, Frank.
1. The bolt and barrel tang do meet correctly, not perfectly, there are a couple gaps in the marker transfer, but 95% or better.

2. The bolt also hits the barrel face correctly, near 100% transfer there.

* Since I measure .073 headspace, I plan to set both surfaces on the bolt back, AFTER I have the FP problem worked out.

The headspace is not the problem, I've used a 3/16 dowel to hold the case tight against the bolt and still get the same light strike.

3. The barrel tang seems right. I can see the marking from dry firing the original FP on the barrel tang, and I get light marker transfer from the new FP as well with no case in the chamber. I also checked for marker transfer with a case in the chamber. When the FP hits the case first, there is no marker transfer to the barrel tang, but only a faint light transfer to the case.

4. No gap between the hammer and bolt, marker transfer shows good contact all around.

I have assumed that the FP is supposed to be free to move back and forth when the hammer is forward (fired), so that you don't have the FP protruding into the case recess of the bolt. Does yours stay extended all the time, or is it free to slide back out of the case recess?

The first pic looks worse than a Marlin 20 I re-barreled. That one looked like some bozo had tried to make it a 22 Mag by drilling out the chamber with a 1/4 inch drill bit on a wobbly extension (the barrel had not been off the receiver). The barrel was stamped 22 LR, but I could drop a 22 Mag in, shake the barrel and it rattled. I've use that barrel for lots of chamber, shoulder and crowning practice. It's down to about 18 inches now, started at 22 inches.

Bob
 
#16 ·
I checked...

I checked an extra pin and hammer and when I put them together on a bolt the end of the firing pin was almost even with the bolt face. There is some play in the pin/hammer connection, but when the front of the hammer is touching the back of the bolt the firing pin shoulder is even with the notch in the bolt and the tip of the firing pin is almost even with the bolt's face. I didn't try to measure it but I don't think the firing pin is more than .010" shy of hitting the back of the barrel.
Put your broken firing pin back in and chamber an empty cartridge that you pulled the bullet and dumped the powder from. See what kind of a pin strike you get with your old pin. It will still work but will tend to jam if you try to use it in semi-auto mode. It will work fine as a single shot. It will just be a pain in the butt to load a single shot manually. Of course if you can shoot in your immediate area you might be able to load a single live round from your clip... remove the clip and fire the round but again that will only work with a live round. Won't work if you have pulled the bullet and dumped the powder!!!:rolleyes: So for the trouble shooting phase you are stuck with manually loading rounds. I generally pull a bullet and dump the powder. Don't want the police to have to stop by and be asking any questions if you know what I mean. Keep us posted.
And yes, the pin should be able to move freely in the bolt.
God Bless, Frank.
 
#17 · (Edited)
And yes, the pin should be able to move freely in the bolt.
I guess I am confused? :confused: maybe I am missing something in the translation....

If the firing pin's rear notch is firmly fitted in the hammer, the only movement of the firing pin is rearward on cocking and forward on firing.. I guess I don't understand what is ment by "move freely" in the bolt, other than "not binding side to side"....
 
#18 · (Edited)
FP Retracted
FP Extended

Bob
Look at the right end of the FP in these pics, in the top one, the FP is retracted, like it would be with the hammer locked back and ready to fire. On mine the FP is completely clear of the case recess in the face of the bolt when he FP is retracted.

In the lower pic, the FP is fully extended, which should only happen if you dry fire. The FP would not actually extend quite this far while in the gun, since the barrel tang would stop it, hopefully before the FP tip hits the chamber mouth.

My issue is that while the FP is able to slide back and forth between these two positions easily (with the hammer in either position, I can see and hear it move when I tip the gun barrel up and down.) There doesn't appear to be anything dragging on either the hammer or FP, but I only get faint scratches on the case, no dent at all.

I'm trying to get someone to confirm the operation, that the hammer doesn't "strike" the FP like most designs, but rather carries it forward until the hammer stops at the back of the bolt and then lets the FP continue forward to strike the case on momentum (which mine doesn't seem to have), rather than as the result of a hard strike like most designs.

If the FP is not supposed to move back and forth like that (mine's free to move more than 1/16), then I can try to fix that, but it looks like it was designed to move freely, depending on momentum to fire the round.

I'm beginning to suspect that the FP is supposed to protrude some amount into the bolt recess when the hammer is forward, meaning that mine has a little bit too much free play. But before I start down that road I'm trying to get confirmation of how much it should protrude with the hammer forward.

What I really need is someone with an old design hammer and FP to check the FP range of movement and protrusion into the case recess on the bolt face. In addition to the fully back, I need both full forward like my lower pic shows, and forward but stopped by a drill bit in front of the step where the barrel tang hits. My expectation is that with the FP fully back the FP will still stick into the case recess a little bit (that's the measurement I really need), and that with the FP forward, but blocked by a drill bit the FP will be most of the way into the case recess, but not quite far enough to hit the chamber mouth.

TFrank, the old FP isn't an option, the end is peened enough that it doesn't move at all in the channel, I had to pry it out. I've been using old fired cases for most testing, with hand fed super colibris pointed out the back door for "maybe it'll work this time" tests.

Bob
 
#19 ·
I am at work right now, so it will be this evening before I can post a picture... But I would say that you are not understanding that the hammer is pulled back probably over an inch on cocking.... So the firing pin will travel at least that far down the channel...
 
#20 ·
I do understand that with this design the FP goes back with the hammer, what I'm looking for are the measurements at the case recess in the front of the bolt when the hammer is forward (resting against the back of the bolt). My FP has free play of over 1/16 inch, even with a drill bit simulating the barrel tang / depth stop. with a light push on the FP "point", it retracts completely out of the case recess. I suspect that it shouldn't, but should stay protruding slightly into the case recess. That's the measurements I'm looking for.

But, I suspect that's a dead end anyway, I just superglued some brass strips to the hammer end of the FP to take out almost all the play. I now have the FP set so that it can't retract out of the case recess at all, and still get light hits. I put a small piece of clay in the case recess behind the case and find that I have nearly a .04 gap between the bolt and the seated case. Since the headspace at the bolt face measures only .045, it looks like something is stopping the bolt before it seats on the barrel face.

Back to machinists marker to fit the bolt. I just bought the gun, and thought that the bolt was original since it was as dirty as the rest of the gun, but now I'm thinking that I bought someone's bad bolt after they replaced one in another gun.

Bob
 
#21 ·
I think I fugured out...

I think I figured out your light strike problem. I think that used firing pin you got to replace your broken one is the problem. Measure from the large shoulder on the front of the firing pin to the shoulder just in front of the little tab/notch that fits into the hammer. The pictures in your first post seem to show a replacement FP that is shorter that the original, for the two points I want you to do a comparison of. Do you have a 6" dial caliper???
The slop or play in the firing pin is not really the problem as I see it. The pin is too short. In your latest pic titled "FP Retracted" the front shoulder is behind the part of the bolt that hits the tang on the barrel. I have play in my FP but when the hammer is against the bolt I can't push the FP as far back as yours goes.
Just went and checked it again. I would be willing to bet that your replacement FP is too short. The hammer SHOULD drive the FP into the rim of a cartridge, IF it is sized properly.
Your replacement FP looks used, not NOS so that is where I would look. Keep us posted.
God Bless, Frank.
 
#22 ·
tfrank... That is what I also think is the problem... I pulled my 351 bolt again and I have no "play" in it at all. But I have had a pin before that looked about 95% the same as an original, but just wouldn't latch on to one of the "older" style hammers properly. I know shootatsky's is the "newer" style. but the problem has to be in the firing pin length or vertical pitch in the channel. Maybe the pin is moving/binding up at the end of the strike, which would shorten the penetration depth. I think if found an original Mossberg 1088 pin or tried one of the 2378 pins, that would probably be the fix needed.
 
#26 ·
Sorry for the slow responses, work's been interfering with my play time.

I added some brass shim stock to the hammer end of the FP, making it .08 longer than the original, it now fills the drilled hole in the hammer so that it has only .01 free play now. No help, even though it now sits .04 into the case recess when at rest, and can't be pushed back out of the recess.

I thought I had excess head space, or that the bolt was stopping short of the barrel face, but I've eliminated both of those.

My last thought is that the chamber mouth is rounded, letting the case seat too deeply, but it really doesn't look any different than several other barrels I've compared it to.

I think my next step is to just bite the bullet and replace the hammer and FP with the new style, but it may be a couple weeks.

Rosscoe, yes this FP is the type that can be "adjusted" by trimming the snout, but the FP already extends fully into the case recess when the bolt is forward.

Solddaboat, my FP and hammer is the old style, but what Numrich sent me was not a 1088 NOS, but rather a new "supposed to work if you fit it" design that was too thick, had a step in the hammer notch that had to be removed and the pin end was too thick to clear the barrel tang. It looked like it had been stamped with a 50 year old die. I've matched it as close as I can to the original.

Bob
 
#27 ·
Bob--you need to make sure that hook on the back of the FP fits tight on the striker, if it is not then add material on the heavy side then fit to the striker. You should have no end play on the striker!!!In the static position you should have about .060 FP protrusion at the bolt face---at the same time you should have maybe .010-.o15 protrusion of the FP at the step in the bolt body, this will stop the FP from coming out to far and beating the end of the barrel. I would have never found all of this had it not been for "solddaboat" who responded to my post!
Gene
 
#28 ·
Catching up on play time.

Slickshot, thanks for the info. I thought I had that thread subscribed, but must have been out of it that day. It is subscribed now.

I tried adding brass shim to the back of the FP hook, so that there's almost no play there. No help. I did actally get one Super Colibri to fire, but that's it.

Tfrank, I couldn't get free to get in on your auction, sorry would have been my first choice.

On the good side, I blew off last Saturday and went to the Tanner show in Denver. A $40 basket case 152 followed me home. Missing a rear sight, couple extra holes in the receiver, broken extractor. But the metal and wood is in good condition, so it's on the bench now. It even had both original sling swivels, which is what caught my eye.

I had to order the extractor for that one, so I added a new style hammer and FP to the order, from Havlins this time.

Will post when I get the parts in.

Bob
 
#31 ·
351c

YUP---with the older or early style---short hook---you are getting the later style????
From what I know now the FP must stop at the step in the bolt or on the barrel extension and at the same time must clear or have free play when the striker hits the back of the bolt so as not to snap the tail off the FP. This free play must be generated by removing material from inside the hook, not on the FP side!!!This will allow the FP to come to rest on the extension with the clearance on the hook at the striker!!
Hope this makes sense!!!
 
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