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  #1  
Old 08-31-2017, 12:45 AM
Enfieldman
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Ruger 10/22: Minimum build for maximum accuracy



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I had a chance to shoot a custom benchrest rifle chambered for the 6mmBR a few weeks ago. It had a 36 power scope and a 2 ounce trigger (YES 2 ounces). We shot at 100 yards and this gun consistently shot 1/4" to 3/4" groups, depending on the bullet used and amount of powder loaded. I AM HOOKED. I never really valued the high gain scopes because I am old and a little shaky. The benchrest position eliminated the shakes. I am still having trouble getting over the effect of using a 2 ounce trigger, but it was great.

I am not going to spend thousands of dollars on a benchrest rifle.

The good news is I have an 18 year old SS RUGER 10/22 Carbine with a synthetic stock that I bought used about 12 years ago. I transferred my Leupold VX-1 3.5-9*40mm scope onto it and took it the range to see if it might be accurate enough for a bench rest rifle. My initial sighting in at 25 yards gave me a 1/4" group. At 50 yards I got a 3/4" group. I was still having a problem getting comfortable with the range bags and sitting position.

That is when I found out about .22LR 50 yard benchrest shooting. The range officer had shot in it for 3 years.

Because of those groups I felt this could be a viable benchrest rifle and started researching. You can spend thousands of dollars accurizing this little guy and that is not what I want to do. I can take the low road and try to find the minimum change required to get the best accuracy from this rifle. This became my goal.

My first step was to make a cheek rest, install it and see if that made an improvement. I used a spare wood cheek rest made for a British Enfield #4 rifle that I had. I rubber banded it to the synthetic stock and went to the range. I put 5 shots in the same hole at 25 yards. I had a 1/32" group. This rifle can clearly be a benchrest rifle.

More good news. I can get a group of 3 different cheek rests for this rifle from Ruger for $50.00. They are on order. I may need to get my own shooting bags. Do any of you folks have any suggestions as to what bags work best? I found that using my left hand to squeeze and position the bag under the shoulder stock is remarkably effective in aiming the rifle. I suspect this is the major reason for my increase in shooting accuracy, along with the scope. I am surprised this part of benchrest shooting doesn't seem to get as much attention as barrels, stocks & triggers.

My next step is to improve the trigger. I estimate my current trigger is in excess of 8 pounds. It actually breaks clean, but is just way too heavy.

Should I spend $80.00 for a 2 pound trigger job by Brimstone or go for the 2 stage, 6 ounce KIDD trigger for $400.00? I'm leaning towards the Brimstone trigger job just to keep everything at a minimum.
(I do not do trigger work myself because I believe the knowledge of trigger systems and the skill to work with minuscule tolerance's is far beyond most hobbyists capabilities. I have seen the effects of poor trigger jobs by self proclaimed gunsmiths on 1911's compared to the trigger job by CCG on my Bullseye pistol. They are not close to being the same.)

At this point I will have spent ~$130.00 plus the cost of the scope & rings to get a benchrest rifle. I paid ~$200.00 for the Leupold scope and $50.00 for the rings, but I can see more money spent there if higher power could improve my distance shooting. Still, my total current expense of under $400.00 seems to be a respectable minimum amount to make a rifle a benchrest rifle.

I am looking forward to any information from folks on this forum who have made a minimum modification benchrest capable 10/22.
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  #2  
Old 08-31-2017, 02:37 PM
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I think you are well on your way to a great rifle. Shooting @ 25yds really makes everybody's groups look sexy. At 50 & 100yds you really start to separate the wheat from the chaff.

If you were looking for just one mod to do I would look at the 3/3oz Kidd 2 Stage trigger for $279. It doesn't matter what other trigger you are talking about for a 10/22 [Brimstone, VQ, TS, etc.] none of them are going to get close to the technical precision you can achieve as a result of the 2 stage design on the Kidd.

As far as being leery about getting used to the light weight of the trigger, don't be. When I started ahooting my 8/8oz Kidd I did blow through the second stage a handful of times when rushed, shooting offhand and quicker stages during Appleseed AQTs BUT after about 200rds with the trigger muscle memory really kicks in and that bueatifuly light and crisp wall might as well be a concrete dam because you ain't gonna break it unless you want to.
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  #3  
Old 08-31-2017, 04:15 PM
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are these the cheek rests from Ruger that you are talking about?


if they are, the won't fit the poly carbine stock that you have...they are made specifically for the collectors edition stocks

that stock looks like this
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Old 08-31-2017, 10:01 PM
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Thank you for all the information. I did order the cheekrests you have shown. I may physically attach my wooden Enfield cheekrest with epoxy or screws. It makes contact at three points along the synthetic stock. It is rotated to the left so the lines of contact are :
1) The length of the cheekrest on the right side of the stock about 1/4" below the top right of the shoulder stock.
2) The length of the cheekrest on the left side of the stock about 1" below the top left of the shoulder stock.
3) The length of the cheekrest on the top left ridge of the shoulder stock.

I need to get the cheekrest permanently installed in order to get my scope mounted with the necessary eye relief before I start serious shooting , otherwise I am just wasting my time.

I currently use Burris Signature rings with plastic inserts that can increase or decrease elevation, windage or both in 5 degree increments. Will that be enough for long range shooting? I've seen some scope mounts that add 20 degrees of elevation. They must be available for a reason.

My nearby rifle range supports 25, 50 and 100 yard target stands. I intend to zero the scope at 50 yards and change elevation as necessary to get on target at 25 and 100 yards. There is an Appleseed range nearby in Ramseur that has a 400 yard capability. I may eventually try to shoot at that distance, but I would use my Bushnell 4500 Elite 8-32*40 scope for that. I may eventually use it at the shorter distances if my rifle shows some serious accuracy.

Your recommendation for the Kidd trigger is tempting, but what would I do with the old trigger assembly?
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Old 08-31-2017, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enfieldman View Post
Thank you for all the information. I did order the cheekrests you have shown. I may physically attach my wooden Enfield cheekrest with epoxy or screws. It makes contact at three points along the synthetic stock. It is rotated to the left so the lines of contact are :
1) The length of the cheekrest on the right side of the stock about 1/4" below the top right of the shoulder stock.
2) The length of the cheekrest on the left side of the stock about 1" below the top left of the shoulder stock.
3) The length of the cheekrest on the top left ridge of the shoulder stock.

I need to get the cheekrest permanently installed in order to get my scope mounted with the necessary eye relief before I start serious shooting , otherwise I am just wasting my time.

I currently use Burris Signature rings with plastic inserts that can increase or decrease elevation, windage or both in 5 degree increments. Will that be enough for long range shooting? I've seen some scope mounts that add 20 degrees of elevation. They must be available for a reason.

My nearby rifle range supports 25, 50 and 100 yard target stands. I intend to zero the scope at 50 yards and change elevation as necessary to get on target at 25 and 100 yards. There is an Appleseed range nearby in Ramseur that has a 400 yard capability. I may eventually try to shoot at that distance, but I would use my Bushnell 4500 Elite 8-32*40 scope for that. I may eventually use it at the shorter distances if my rifle shows some serious accuracy.

Your recommendation for the Kidd trigger is tempting, but what would I do with the old trigger assembly?
I made an adjustable cheekrest out of kydex for $15, including hardware, a couple of years ago when I was using a synthetic stock. Adjustable is nice, since you can fine tune the height based on how you're shooting (offhand, bench, prone).



http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s....php?t=1076742

Last edited by rawhp; 08-31-2017 at 10:18 PM.
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  #6  
Old 09-01-2017, 04:49 AM
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1/4" to 3/4" 100 yard groups from a benchrest 6BR??? - It's a dog!
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  #7  
Old 09-01-2017, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enfieldman View Post
Your recommendation for the Kidd trigger is tempting, but what would I do with the old trigger assembly?
You can sell it here in the marketplace to offset your cost on the Kidd trigger, lots of intrest in the older metal triggepacks or hold onto it for your next build...

The Appleseed Home Range @ Ramseur is one of the nicest for shooting out to 500yds. I got to shoot and camp there for a week during a Riflemans Boot Camp last year, lots of fun and a great range for sure.

Last edited by RaggedHole; 09-01-2017 at 01:14 PM.
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  #8  
Old 09-01-2017, 04:17 PM
Enfieldman
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Rider47:

I appreciate that in benchrest shooting, single hole groups are the rule.

I never shot a group under 3" at 100 yards with any of the .30 caliber high power military rifles I owned (30-36 Garand, 7.62 M-14, 7.5*54 MAS 36 and several different Enfield's in .308 and .303 British) until I shot that 6BR. I'm not a good shot and never was. Don't blame the gun for my limitations. This doesn't mean I won't improve. I am looking forward to getting better using the benchrest format with the rifles I have available (Ruger 10/22 and an Enfield #4 that has shot 1.5" groups, but not by me).

My benchrest friend hadn't shot in 4 years and managed a 0.1" group. The important thing is that I found a format where my shooting was drastically improved, and is a lot more rewarding. If I can reliably shoot tight groups I will be happy. If they improve I'll be even happier. I should also note that we were testing some new loads my friend had wanted to try. After seeing which ones shot the best he was going to try different COL's to maximize their performance.

The ammunition selection for the .22LR is limited to what manufacturers provide, but after I develop some bench rest consistency with the Ruger 10/22 I'll try the same shooting techniques with my #4 Enfield with ammunition that I load. I'm stuck with that military trigger, but I will be using a 32 power scope and a cheekrest has already been installed. I just need to put on a better scope mount. There are 2 different solid copper bullets available for the .303 British along with some effective hunting bullets by Speer & Hornady.

I am really looking forward to benchrest shooting and all the rifle and ammunition development that will go along with it.
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  #9  
Old 09-01-2017, 04:39 PM
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Honestly, I think you are fine where you are at, and you should just start shooting your clubs matches. As you keep improving as a shooter and your technique develops you will start to recognize where the shortcomings or limitations in your setup lie. When you get there you will know what to improve and how to do it, and we will be here to tell you how to spend your money

I think your "minimum build for maximum accuracy" idea is great. As long as you are having fun and enjoying, that is all that matters!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Enfieldman View Post
Rider47:

I appreciate that in benchrest shooting, single hole groups are the rule.

I never shot a group under 3" at 100 yards with any of the .30 caliber high power military rifles I owned (30-36 Garand, 7.62 M-14, 7.5*54 MAS 36 and several different Enfield's in .308 and .303 British) until I shot that 6BR. I'm not a good shot and never was. Don't blame the gun for my limitations. This doesn't mean I won't improve. I am looking forward to getting better using the benchrest format with the rifles I have available (Ruger 10/22 and an Enfield #4 that has shot 1.5" groups, but not by me).

My benchrest friend hadn't shot in 4 years and managed a 0.1" group. The important thing is that I found a format where my shooting was drastically improved, and is a lot more rewarding. If I can reliably shoot tight groups I will be happy. If they improve I'll be even happier. I should also note that we were testing some new loads my friend had wanted to try. After seeing which ones shot the best he was going to try different COL's to maximize their performance.

The ammunition selection for the .22LR is limited to what manufacturers provide, but after I develop some bench rest consistency with the Ruger 10/22 I'll try the same shooting techniques with my #4 Enfield with ammunition that I load. I'm stuck with that military trigger, but I will be using a 32 power scope and a cheekrest has already been installed. I just need to put on a better scope mount. There are 2 different solid copper bullets available for the .303 British along with some effective hunting bullets by Speer & Hornady.

I am really looking forward to benchrest shooting and all the rifle and ammunition development that will go along with it.
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:08 PM
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Old 09-02-2017, 04:07 AM
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Enfieldman

Don't mind me and my 6BR comment. (I have 4 BR's, two 22BR's a 6BR and a 30BR - the BR is an impressive precision cartridge.)

Have fun with your 10/22 and striving to maximize precision with that (ammo-ammo-ammo!) and your .303 Enfield. Also, if you haven't already, check out the benchrest section of this website. No cheekpads there! - but you're a long way (down the dark hole) from there. Enjoy the journey.
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Old 09-02-2017, 04:16 AM
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IMHO Priority Needs for BR:

A solid front rest, even a low cost Caldwell Rock Jr. with the bag filled with sand. Some type of rabbit ear rear bag - lots of choices including Protektor brand. (DO NOT go the shooting cradle route!)

Premium trigger - the 2-stage Kidd, as this is the best, and can go with your rifle as you improve it.

Ammo-ammo-ammo.

Then eventually - A really barrel.
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Old 09-02-2017, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enfieldman View Post
I am really looking forward to benchrest shooting and all the rifle and ammunition development that will go along with it.
What level of accuracy to you seek from the rimfire? If you are simply trying to make the 10/22 shoot as well as possible, while spending little as possible, then go for it and have fun. If, on the other hand, you want to achieve a more precision level of accuracy (as you would typically see in a rimfire BR match), then I fear you are going to be spending twice. May be better to save up and do it the first time. I speak from experience, as I have a shop full of takeoff parts that I will probably sell in bulk one day for 10 cents on the dollar. But, it's a hobby, and hobbies have their cost.
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Old 09-02-2017, 01:47 PM
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I appreciate all the replies. I look at my mini/max project as a low cost stepping stone to a new, benchrest rifle.

I've been looking at the new Lithgow rifles from Australia. They make the LA101 in rimfire chambering's and the LA 102 in 223, 243 and 308. These are basically Varmint type bolt action rifles, not benchrest, but with some remarkable accuracy for a factory rifle. I really like their stock, but I am sure my next step rifle will be 2or 3 years away and is likely to change as I become more knowledgeable.

When I used my friends setup he had a metal front stand with a front stop that matched his rifles stock. The rear bag was a small vertically tapered simple bag. It made changing elevation very easy.

Now about .22LR ammunition. I read about some rim thickness checking equipment and some swaging equipment that claimed to improve the consistency of ammunition by sorting similar rim thicknesses and stabilizing the bullet in the case for more uniform pressure development. Does anyone have experience with this equipment. It is made by a man named Paco.

I may have solved my cheekrest problem. I picked up two 10-32 brass flathead machine screws, two screw in threaded inserts and some DEVCO plastic weld that works on wood & metal. Total expense =$7.00. I'll let you know if it works and post some photos. By the way, What do I need to do to post a photo?

I have tried to contact a place in North Carolina that is listed as having 50BR competitions, but I am trouble making contact with them. The place is in Aquadale, NC. If you are familiar with this place could you help me contact them? I live in High Point, NC and wonder where other 50BR competitions are held in the area.
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Old 09-02-2017, 02:51 PM
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my advice for doing it on the cheap is to do the trigger. Brimstone will help, lots. the Kidd, you'll have to learn a bit, though that isn't a difficult task when you set your heart on it.

barrel needs to have a tad done. Randy at CPC can handle it just fine. Full workup is what you want on it. send the bolt to and have it done at the same time. This is all of course if you can't do it yourself.

I have more money in tooling to do this sort of thing than I have in my pickup. I do this stuff for me, so don't ask how much to do it for yours. Get hold of Brimstone or Randy and have one of them do it. They do this sort of thing everyday all day and have the licenses and all to make this work out for you.

Nothing at all wrong with Kidd stuff. Just takes more money, and you said on the cheap.
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