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  #1  
Old 06-29-2018, 01:09 PM
brutusfire
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CZ 455 BUTT PLATE removal??



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Im in the process of refinishing a Trainer 455 stock, I just removed the screws from the butt plate and the plate itself wont budge. I tried prying it up from inside the screw holes and clamping the plate in a vise to try and break the seal which has worked in the past on other hard to remove plates but this one wont give. Does anyone know if CZ glues them on before screwing them down?? Thanks. Brutus
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  #2  
Old 06-29-2018, 01:46 PM
jfraz3
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Yep, glued on. Some heat and a thin putty knife helps
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:32 PM
brutusfire
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Thanks man, I appreciate it, Ill let you know how it turns out! Brutus.
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:41 PM
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I've removed several from 452s and have done it by CAREFULLY going around the edge of the butt plate/stock joint with a single-edge razor blade, working the blade in a half-inch or so. Afterwards the plate popped off without too much trouble.

I've also done it by slowly applying (not too much) heat with a heat gun and allowing time for the heat to penetrate the plastic and soften the glue. I would probably recommend this latter method, but both have worked multiple times for me without any damage any part of the gun.
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:42 PM
automaticlee

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How much heat? Wont it damage the stock? I would like to get mine off also.
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:23 PM
brutusfire
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I dont see how heat will damage the stock. Ill be using a heat gun with variable temp control so Im sure it will be OK.
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Old 06-29-2018, 05:12 PM
retiredsarge48
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I used a putty knife that I had thinned out on a belt sander. Do not pry but carefully push the putty knife between the stock and butt plate working all the way around the edge. I did not have to use heat but if done carefully it would probably help soften the glue under the butt plate.
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Old 06-29-2018, 05:26 PM
brutusfire
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This is exactly what I plan on trying tomorrow morning. Ive got most of the stock sanded down to 180 grit with just a 1/8th" border around the plate. After I remove the plate Ill just finish that part off and give it a once over with some 220 grit and prep for staining. It looks like the wood itself is a bit darker than I had hoped so Ill probably go with a cherry red stain instead of the amber I had planned on. Well its been a long day and its the weekend so Im off to clean up and settle in with a couple of fingers of Makers Mark and a brew or two! Thanks for all the advice gents! Brutus.
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  #9  
Old 06-29-2018, 06:15 PM
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Sharp puddy knife and heat gun or hair dryer.

Slow is the way to go. Use some heat then blade then heat, blade etc.

Paul
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Old 06-29-2018, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by automaticlee View Post
How much heat? Wont it damage the stock? I would like to get mine off also.
It's hard to define, but I wouldn't concentrate on a certain spot or get the plastic so hot that you can't keep your hand on it for several seconds. I just wave it back and forth from several inches away until the plastic is nice and warm. I probably took 5 minutes or so to heat mine up, giving the heat time to wick through the plastic and heat the glue.

On the sanding, I've not done a test to see if I could see 220 grit marks in the wood after a refinish, but I have gone at least to 400 grit with my finish sanding before applying finish to my CZ stocks.

Last edited by I6turbo; 06-29-2018 at 09:03 PM.
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  #11  
Old 06-30-2018, 08:42 AM
wonderdog1
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You have gotten some really good advice. 16turbo helped me through my first refinish and l canít thank him enough for his help.

The sanding part of the process can be very tedious, but well worth the time. I started with 220, then 400, 600, and finished with 800. There was noticable difference between each grit and Iím glad l took the extra time sanding.

Best of Luck on your project

Wonderdog1
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  #12  
Old 06-30-2018, 01:49 PM
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I removed mine today. I've been wanting to do it for a while. 106 degrees on my deck today. I let the stock lay out there for about an hour and was able to push a razor blade between the plate and the wood fairly easily. The next step is a 1'' grind to fit pad on the scout stock. Thanks for all the good info.
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Old 07-02-2018, 03:04 PM
brutusfire
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Got busy over the weekend so I just tried leaving it in the sun for an hour, came right off with a sharp putty knife! Thanks everyone for the info. Brutus.
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Old 08-09-2018, 09:06 PM
TNwolfhound
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New CZ 455 hated the stock color. Decided to strip and stain. Butt plate would not come off so I researched this forum. SIMPLE!!! Hairdryer on high heat and a pocket knife. Heated the butt plate up and started working my knife in between the stock and butt plate. At first a simple cut where the two joined. As the knife worked in I heated the knife blade. Within a few minutes I had it off.
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  #15  
Old 08-10-2018, 11:10 AM
brutusfire
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Good luck with stripping the stain off! Whatever they use gets pretty deep into the grain, youll likely sand off most of the checkering before you get to the natural wood color. If its not walnut, make sure you seal the wood before staining if youre going to use a stain. Brutus
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